Dave007

I'm gonna assume that Echo who is 10 wks old was the last bird you got. Did you change habits with the 2 birds when they first got together? Did you pay more attention to the new bird because you thought you had to? After the thrill is finally gone concerning a new bird around, the older moe established bird can possibly feel threatened or very annoyed if he/she feels that he/she has become the #2 bird in the house. Did you pay alot of attention to the new bird FIRST? If so, that's no good. The establlished #1 bird has to remain that way for a long time. The established bird really doesn't care how old the young bird is. The older bird will pay attention when a bird that young has to be handfed with special formula( if that be the case). This also goes on with adult birds. A new one comes in the house. Much fuss is given to the new bird, the other bird is watching carefully and when the time comes, the established bird lets the owner know just how he/she feels about the whole situation.

Many greys are very fearful of cardboard boxes and there's really no scientific answer as to why. All of my greys are extremely afraid and so are my 2 quakers. Just keep them away from the bird. Pack and unpack in a different room. There's no way to change that fear.

Hi Welcome to our perch. I'm sure you'll find loads and loads of advice, methods and opinions concerning all things concerning greys. Not to worry about the grammar. Believe me, we understand.

Lots of info here THE BIRD FOOD ROOM

Well, your situation sounds like all will be happy. You have a bird that doesn't fly but stays on the cage. You'll have a bird that can fly but who's been cage bound. That in itself should have never happened. Your new grey has experience living with another bird who's a diferent species and got along. As luvparrots said, there's no guarantee that parrots will definitely get along. It's a chance you'll be taking. More than likely, your grey will visit the Macaw until * the thrill is over*. Aggression can come from jealousy, invasion of another bird's home( cage). Most adult birds of different species have no desire to do that unless they'e allowed to do that from a very early age. Macaws and greys are jealous of their own home and that rule is ususlly established quickly with adult birds. The grey who flys will probably show more interest in everything that's new in the house. Personally, I would advise you not to clip an adult's wings ( grey). AS far as a smooth transition, the best way to do that is to keep each cage apart until the birds get used to the presense of another bird. There should be no jealousy concerning food because those 2 parrots eat different things. The B/G macaw is one of the friedliest bird to keep in the house. Paying lots of attention to both birds on a constant basis is important but remember that the Macaw is the #1 bird in the house and should be trated that way---giving food, giving treat to the macaw first. The grey won't know what it's like to be the #1 bird because he's in a new envirnoment with new people and surroundings. It's too bad that the grey was onstantly locked up. You're very lucky that you're not getting a cage bound bird. Keeping both locked up for a while is mentioned above. The only thing I would worry about are the dogs and cat. The macaw is high uo on the cage so the 4 legged animals aren't interested in straining themselves to get the macaw. The grey will be flying around and the 4 legged animals may show an desire to get the bird or at least show interest. That won't go well with the flying bird. So, the best thing you can do is have one eye constantly checking out the situation. But only you knows the personality of your 4 legged animals. I'm sure you'll make the right decision. The other thing is room for getting rid of loose dander. Macaws have very sensitive nares and sometimes, breathing is affected. No always but keep this in the back of your mind. When you get to the point of releasing the grey, watch to see his reaction to the grey and visa versa. The time to see things see in the beginning of a relationship. As they get used to each other, they'll either ignore eachother or become neutral towards eachother. Start off with with some of these suggestions and see what happens.

Here's your answer-------- http://www.avianbiotech.com/Diseases/Polyoma.htm

If every bird in your house has been tested for diseases and they all been given a clean bill of health, that's great but the normal thing that should be done is to keep the new bird away from a mature bird for possible health reasons. That means quarantine ( different room) for about 2 to 4 weeks but even more important here is the age of that baby. The baby bird should be weaned before being sold. Many deaths have occured because the new owner really hasn't the experience to handfeed a baby. It's a process. Also, a new bird should be taken to a vet to get a *well* check. If any thing is wrong, a refund or exchange can be done but the problem there is that not all the regular tests that are done on a new weaned bird can be done on an unweaned bird because the bird needs to be fully developed. So, try to have the seller fully wean the bird before taking it home.

******* Dali came clipped and his molt has been very slow. His clip was bad and he does not glide, he drops like a rock (he chipped his beak). I want him to be flighted and am patiently waiting for his new feathers. The vet recommended full spectrum lighting with increasing hours to stimulate his molt. ******** Natural molting and *molting* that happens with an jury such as a very bad clip are 2 different things. In order for a bird to regain a full set of unclipped feathers, that bird must first lose many dead feathers in order for new ones to replace them. Since there's no particular order or time concerning the length of those damaged (clipped ) feathers comin in, new feathers growing in to replace clipped feathers may not come in in the right order or placement. Certain feathers should be on top of other feathers. Other feathers should be under other feathers. Certain feathers should be along side of feathers, but that doesn't mean that the new feathers that are all growing in will position themselves in the right areas because other feathers that need to be under or over or along side may not be there yet. Many times, a bird will pull out feathers that aren't in the right correct place because of pinching and discomfort. Raising or lowering sunlight, daylight, UVB or UVA levels, isn't gonna help those bad feathers die quicker or dislodge or make new ones grow in more quickly. Many people have birds that have gone through bad clips and they'll be the first ones to say that it took quite a long time before those feathers to come in in their proper order. They'll also say that their bird's feathers seem to be coming in nicely when all of a sudden certain new feathers that just grew in are lying on the bottom of the cage. It's just a lucky day when all of a sudden, all the feathers are back in in their proper order and positioning. Also, the skin needs to be conditioned in order for that to happen. Parrots in the wild don't have clipped wings. Parrots in the wild don't stay in sunlight very long. Actually, very few birds of any species (softbills, hardbills, hookbills in the wild will stay in sunlight very long.

I really don't know if you can tell whether quakes are coming but if you have a time of the year that they occur, you should move your bird very close to you and the family. That way, you can constantly talk to your bird when very harsh wather occurs or is about to occur. Also get very close ( face to face) and talk or hum or sing. When a bird is very close and sees you very close it feels more safe. Get closer to the cage moreso than usual. Some greys are terrified by lightning or thunderstorms and others don't even flinch when those things happen. Earthquakes are different because a cage rattles. Doing things to distract a bird is about the only thing you can do.

Actually you really can get away with using only the aloe vera juice but it should be used all year long. Many people use it even though their birds have no plucking/chewing problems. The secret is to get the skin very soaked and then let the bird preen with it on. Towel or hair drying isn't a good idea. The longer the skin stays wet, the better. Outer feathers are waterproof and any fluids just roll off the body. http://www.greyforums.net/forums/showthread.php?189967-100-natural-aloe-vera-juice Use undiluted. You're welcome

None of the items you mention won't work on parrots even though the advertising says different. As far as plucking, a person has to first find out what the reason is for the plucking. No matter what the reason, the items you mention won't work. Your vet is correct. Using those things are a waste of time and if you're putting them in the bird's water, you risk the chance of making the water foul and unsafe to drink. Parrots drink very little water. The only products that are safe are the ones that act on the skin to lessen dryness and itching. When the skin is less dry and less itchy, the plucking lessens. They're sprayed externally until the skin becomes less itchy. It's an on going process. Birds get their vitamins from the variety of foods that they eat.

Tee has a love of sherbet and hasn't any problems with it. He eats as much as he wants out of a bowl http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DaveVP/media/CopyofDSCN0164.jpg.html http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DaveVP/media/CopyofDSCN0173.jpg.html

Oh, I didn't know he was a TAG. No, they're not into chewing wood very much. Sometimes, they do like to knock it around especially if the wood is hanging and has a bell attached. Then my TAG gets very aggressive with these things and then sleeps with the toys surrounding him. My Tag loves to shred stringy hanging toys . Basically, he loves to get mock viscious with his toys. He also gets very nasty with a hard plastic cup on the grating. He's learned how to dislodge it from the holder. PS---congrats on being able to crack that brazil. You must be a very strong willed woman who's used to getting her way ALL THE TIME!!. Maybe people even fear you. After all, if you can do a brazil, what's a human skull??

***I'm using safflower based though I'm not sure that is necessary or advisable either),*** There's nothing wrong with safflower. Give all you want. Nuts---Great!! almonds, walnuts, human grade roasted peanuts, hazel nuts, brazil nuts ( although used more so with macaws, because brazils need to be really cracked with a strong beak. Sometimes even people can't crack them.

The most picked on seed in parrot mix that causes debates is sunflower seed. Sunflower seed is in just about every parrot mix made today. Whenever the subject of parrot mix comes up, it usually has to do with a parrot's daily diet. With some parrots, sunflower seed might contribute to obesity if that particular species is prone to obesity such as amazons and ( very few other species). Parrots who are prone to obesity need a lot more excersize. Many people don't do that. Other debates have to do with what nutritional values sunflower seeds actually has. Some people are totally against giving those seeds. Others find it okay to give in moderation. Others buy parrot mix that has safflower seeds in it as opposed to sunflower seeds. Because parrots enjoy eating sunflower seed as well as other seeds in parrot mix, some people believe that it hampers the act of changing a parrot mix diet to a pellet diet. Other people believe it slows down the parrot's desire to accept fruit and veggies. Sometimes, a small bit of information can grow out of hand and spread. I don't pick out the sunflower or saflower seeds from a bag of seed. The only thing I watch out for are tiny seed bugs that are sometimes in seed mix. I simply take the food and stick it in the freezer and they die. For all I know, the birds eat them too. Sunflower seed has received a bad rap over the years when it comes to the dietary needs of birds. But keep in mind, years ago, there were not the sophisticated seed blends that there are today and many people would just provide sunflower as the only seed source for their birds. If this was the case, then yes, sunflower would not be balanced nutrition for any bird. But today, we have seed manufacturers that spend time and money on research in order to create balanced seed blends that include seveal other ingredients more than just seed. Some have pellets, dried fruit and vegetables, nuts, grains, vitamin and mineral enhancements added to the seed mix. There are seed mixes that are void of sunflower, and in it's place, safflower is substituted. Safflower is a good seed also, but not very different in it's composition compared to sunflower. But because it's NOT sunflower it is more widely accepted. Most of today's parrot mixes are very nutritious and should be a part of every birds diet. The optimum words being "part of." Along with seed there should be pellets ( maybe), fresh fruits and vegetables, nuts, etc to make what could be described as a balanced diet. Nutrition is very much a debatable issues when it comes to birds and no one will ever be in complete agreement with what is the best diet for any of the birds we keep. The idea is to offer a wide variety of nutritous foods and hope to develop good eating habits with your bird. All of the above is just my opinion but it's been my experience that parrots don't have a shorter life span if they only eat parrot mix. I own a couple of birds that refuse to eat fruit and veggies. At this time, nothing I do would change their minds. They're perfectly healthy, active, feisty and sometimes, big pains in the ass. I also believe that parrot mix should be available in their cages all day because parrots and other wild birds don't eat the same way that people do. Fruits and veggies should be given but I always tell people not to get overly upset when they won't accept pellets. Many parrots just don't like pellets. Loads of people will confirm that. Vets are starting to change their minds concerning the value of pellets What I say to people who are getting overly upset when pellets aren't accepted is this---'in the wild where there are flocks of parrots getting ready to fly off to get their everyday basic food, do you think that they're gonna purposely avoid their natural food and try to find out where that * pellet tree* is located?' It just doesn't exist. I've raised parrots before pellets were invented and I've never had any problems. The parents ate sunflower seeds. The chicks came out fine. I feel that a varied mixed diet of parrot seed, veggies, fruit and various human food is the best way to go but again, this is just my opinion based on true experiences. I thank Evie for her post but I know people aren't gonna agree with me and I totally accept that. People need to feel good about their birds cause that * feel good* process has to do with the *love process*. Sorry for the long post but I agree with Evie and I'm greatful that she listed ingredients in sunflower. Addiction?? The only thing my birds are addicted to are being pains in the ass.

It would appeal to a parrot owner to sell the item for 1/2 price. I'm sure you'll get the customers returning.

1998--15 yrs ago. Information has been updated. Methods for success has been posted. People have tried out different things with success and failure. People have posted about this subject. Read the sticky in the Health Room sticky area. That's why newer information is posted as a sticky. http://www.greyforums.net/forums/showthread.php?157511-UVB-LIGHTING-IT-S-IMPORTANCE

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So, How about an update. , the bird has laid 4 eggs. Any 5th egg?? Did you decide to visit an vet? Bird back to normal? Lots of info was given so it would be nice to hear what's going on.

You can go to an avian vet now or you can wait and see if another egg shows up. If so, it's time for the vet. The clochoa will have to be checked. Ps--Remember that I said that it's possible that 4 eggs may come? Understand that we're not vets here and having a connection to an avian vet is always a good idea in case of other issues.

There's really nothing you can do to stop it and it happens often with clipped or unclipped birds. The time to worry is when he starts chewing on the lower shaft which is far away from where you're talking about. It'll stop. There's a chance that the feathers he's chewing on are dying. You can keep them moist with water but that won't necessarily stop him from doing that. Clipped wings die more quickly than unclipped wings. The tips of those clipped wings may be pinching him or may not be in the order of the rest of the wings. Some greys and other parrots do that to more than just wing feathers. So, just keep an eye on them and don't make a big fuss. You can distract him by adding a small piece of wood to chew on. They like wood and usually destroy it.

Hi You're probably one of the few people that are looking at purifiers with the perfect attititude ****** Most of the negative reviews seem to expect it to perform miracles and absorb every speck of dust in the room so they don't have to tidy so often. With Alfie and two cats, I can't see me having to reduce my cleaning schedule at all haha!****** Most people who are looking at purifiers and in the back of their minds are the words vacuum/remover of pet dust/dander. Purifiers don't remove any dust or dander unless it stays in the air and floats around. Cats have heavy dander--greys and some other types of parrots have heavy dander hich goes in one direction---downward. It stays there unless it's naturally moved around by walking or wiping etc. A good place to see the heavy dander is to look at the typical bird cage and look at the extreme dust on it compared to other places that have dust. Most purifiers don't have strong vacuum power and the dust that it does take in is the type that floats around areas and stays afloat. Eventually that type of dust floats near the purifier and is taken in. I don't know about the brand that you speak of but ost brands work on that same principle. A purifier in a bird room is fne as long as you realize that the purifier isn't a miracle maker which it seems like you already know. In a bird area the purifier will take in floating dust as long as it stays afloat. All dander is heavy and purifiers aren/t made for heavy dander. I wish that many others were as realistic as you concerning purifiers. http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=air+purifiers&tag=mh0b-20&index=aps&hvadid=1468220008&ref=pd_sl_994vazbegm_e

Why did this happen?? I have no idea New place to get it?? Yes it's a better price-------33 ounces for 11.99 Type in Amazon.com Then type in Red Palm Oil The first bottle you see will be 11.99------33 ounces. Then put your mouse on the picture and you see close ups. It even has larger bottles too. Red Palm Oil (100% Pure) - 33.81 Oz. By Omni $11.99 Order in the next 49 hours and get it by Tuesday, Jul 30. More Buying Choices $3.13 new (13 offers)

I just received an Email from Swansons Vitamins They won't be carrying Red Palm Oil anymore.

I'll make sure that I remind my housekeeping and maid service about this latex situation.