carlsjr

Good question Jimmy. honestly I do not know.

From what you typed the employee is the cause of the biting. for a baby TAG/CAG or any other parrot to be biting at such a young age (8 weeks) is a problem and a big red flag. its clear the employee has no clue about bird behavior and should not be selling birds or giving completely wrong information. Bids have no idea about dominance or submission so trying to "show" the bird who is boss is kinda stupid. i have a feeling that you are going to have some serious behavioral problems with your bird. i would not buy from this guy. you should read this thread. http://www.greyforums.net/forums/showthread.php?190309-A-note-on-Punishment-and-your-Parrot

Just some friendly reminders of everyday things we parnots need to keep an eye out for to keep our fids safe. i hope everybody has a merry christmas. Baking, Cooking and Eating Non-stick coating (PBFE). Odorless and invisible to us, fumes emitted from overheating non-stick surfaces will kill your bird. I have yet to meet an avian veterinarian who has seen a bird survive this exposure. The toxin travels on air currents and kills birds by blocking their ability to absorb oxygen, an agonizing death. PBFE can be found in non-stick cookware, burner liners, self-cleaning ovens, curling irons, irons, ironing board covers, warm air humidifiers, metal interior non-stick slow cookers, bakeware, etc. Now I see that there is a new product – aluminum foil with non-stick coating made by Reynolds. This kind of foil is also referred to as “quick release style”. This foil is coated with PBFE and is not safe for your birds. ***Do use uncoated steel, ceramic, aluminum or glass cookware Avoid sharing certain foods with your birds (be sure to remind your guests as well): – beverages: alcoholic, caffeinated, soda pop, egg nog, milk – onions (cause anemia), chocolate (toxic), foods high in sugar, salt or oils (avoid sharing junk food in general) ***Do have on hand human-grade unsalted roasted nuts for your birds (preferably not peanuts to reduce the risk of aflatoxin poisoning of the liver) Holiday Decoration Holiday time is full of new sights, sounds, materials and activities, many of which are tempting and dangerous for your birds. Fresh Christmas trees (fir and pine) are not poisonous, but they do have stick sap. There is a risk of physical injury from sharp needles, so be sure to select one with soft fresh needles. If birds injest pine needles they can have gastric upset. Cedar contains oils that can be irritating to toxic depending on exposure and the size of your bird. Many trees that are bought have been treated with pesticides, and chemicals to retard transpiration to keep them fresher longer, so you want to prevent your birds from chewing on them. Tree water is not good for your birds to drink (would you drink it?) as it can contain fertilizers and bacteria like pseudomonas that love to grow in standing water. Older artificial trees may be made with PVC. If these trees are placed near heat (like a fireplace or radiator) toxic fumes may be emitted. Some older plastics can break down into a dust that contains lead (also in old mini-blinds). Any trees or other tempting decorations may be attractive to our birds as a natural roost or to climb. This by itself is not dangerous, but they may cause a tree or other decorations to fall over and cause injury or fire. Mistletoe berries are toxic and should be kept out of the reach of birds. Ingestion can cause significant vomiting and diarrhea, difficulty breathing, collapse, erratic behaviors, hallucinations and death (bad). Holly berries cause digestive irritation, intense vomiting, diarrhea and depression. Poinsettia can cause digestive and eye irritation. Angel hair and tinsel can be entangling, and can block airways and the GI tract if ingested. Snow spray,if from an aerosol can, should not be sprayed around birds. Moreover, nothing aerosol should ever be used around birds as their respiratory systems are much more sensitive than ours and things that don’t bother us can injure or kill them from inhaling. Bubbling lights contain methylene chloride, a very toxic solvent that can cause irritation to the eyes and mucous membranes. Keep inquisitive beaks away from these decorations. Silica gel packages are frequently enclosed in packages of decorations, shoes, electronic and camera equipment. The crystals of silica gel are nontoxic, but GI tract obstruction is a possibility if the package is ingested whole by a large bird. Metallic, glass or plastic ornaments can be broken into sharp pieces resulting in cuts. There also may be lead in tree ornaments, especially if they are older or made outside the United States. Parts of tree ornaments can be ingested possibly leading to internal blockages. ***Non-toxic and attractive holiday decorations can be made using cranberries, popcorn, dried peppers, pine cones, and other items that can be strung without rotting. Electric lights and cords are dangerous. Most holiday light cords come with a warning label that they contain 2% lead. Consumers are advised to wash their hands after handling them and to keep children away. They are highly toxic to pets. Make sure as with all electrical cords that holiday cords are well hidden as birds may be tempted to chew them, which can result in burns, heart damage due to partial electrocution, or instant electrocution. Yule logs (colored fabricated logs) contain salts of heavy metals such as lead, copper, arsenic, barium and selenium. Chewing on these logs can cause heavy metal poisoning. Fumes from such logs can be dangerous as well. Of course, you want to prevent your birds from flying into an open fire or landing on hot embers. What is that in the air (it’s not your bird!) Candles and scented oils can contain volatile oils that are toxic to birds. Fragrant holiday candles (such as Glade brand) have been implicated in the deaths of pet parrots. Potpourri and incense also can contain dangerous volatile oils, so avoid their use around birds. Likewise air fresheners and room deodorizers can be deadly, avoid them. Cleaning products such as Arm and Hammer Pet Fresh carpet cleaner, Pine Sol and Endust can be deadly. ***To freshen a room’s scent, boil herbs such as cloves and cinnamon instead of using commercial products. Cigarette smoke can cause respiratory tract irritation and allergic skin disorders in birds as well as potential nicotine poisoning. Cigarette butts are highly toxic if ingested. Colored metallic gift wraps and bows may contain toxic metals. Provide your birds their own gifts wrapped in paper bags or newspaper, cellophane, tissue paper or non-glossy non-metallic paper without any tape as the glue used on tape can also be dangerous to them. http://successwithbirds.com/2011/12/17/holiday-safety-for-pet-birds/

i asked my vet about that because im going to get Luna micro chipped when i have the money for it. anyway he said its a good thing to do but be aware that micro chipping birds is pretty new and most shelters or animal control agencies don't even think about checking for a chip if they get a lost parrot.

i took the band of Luna the day we picked her up from the airport. its not needed, only the breeder has to put it on the birds leg by law but after you get your bird its your choice if you want to keep it or not. I took my birds band off becuase it ws pretty loose and was scared it would get caught on something and cause injury. the decision is yours.

umm wow guess i hit a nerve uh? this is how you deal with people who disagree with you? so i get the ignore list. gotcha, i understand now why you were kicked out of other parrot boards. you are intolerant of ANYBODY who dares challenge you. i have no idea what you are talking about with 3,000 years ago in china and a straw dog and the taos bible. honestly i really dont care either. humm you "to see a westerner craft that on me is laughable" that one sentence speaks volumes about your character and views. i would love to see you write to explain yourself. because if im not mistaken you just insulted me for being from the west... are we not as evolved as you or something? are you calling me stupid? wait yea you did call me stupid and pathetic. see bolded. well yea your writings are LONGGGGGGGG and since english is your second language its pretty darn difficult to read PLUS you have stuff scattered all over the place.

since you have a male disregard the egg laying stuff. 10 things you can do to discourage breeding behavior in your bird 1. Put your bird to bed early, by 5 or 6: 00pm. A long day length is one of the most important environmental cues triggering egg laying in birds. By allowing your bird to stay up late, you are mimicking the long days of spring/summer, making your bird think it’s time to breed. An early bedtime will help to turn off her breeding hormones. Note that she will need complete darkness and quiet for this to be effective (covering the cage while the radio or TV is on is not adequate!) 2. Keep your bird away from dark, enclosed spaces. Most parrots are cavity nesters, which means that instead of building a nest out in the open they look for dark, enclosed spaces in which to lay their eggs. In order to stop your bird from laying eggs it is essential that she is kept away from such areas. Nest boxes should be promptly removed. Birds can be ingenious when looking for a nesting site (under a couch, behind the microwave, even in the dryer!), so it is important that she is under close supervision when out of the cage. 3. Keep your bird way from other birds to which she is bonded. Having a mate is a strong sexual stimulus for your bird. This mate may be a member of the opposite sex, a bird of the same sex, or even a bird of a different species. If your bird is bonded to another bird in the household, a temporary separation will help turn off her hormones. Ideally, she should not be able to see or hear the other bird during the separation period. 4. Discourage breeding behavior in your bird. Some birds will display breeding behaviors with their favorite person, such as vent rubbing, tail lifting, or regurgitating food. Discourage these behaviors by putting your bird back in her cage for a “time out” whenever she displays them. Don’t pet your bird on her back or under her tail, as this can be sexually stimulating. Petting on the head and chest are not as stimulating. 5. Remove your bird’s “love toys”. Some single birds will display mating behaviors with objects in their environment, such as food cups, toys, perches or mirrors. Mating behaviors include regurgitating food, vent rubbing, and tail lifting. If your bird engages in these behaviors with an inanimate object, that object should be permanently removed from her environment. 6. Rearrange the cage interior and change the cage location. Your bird is more likely to lay eggs in a cage that hasn’t changed in a while. Putting your bird in a different cage and/or changing the cage location can help discourage laying. Changing the arrangement or types of toys, dishes and perches in the cage can also be very helpful. 7. Give your bird optimal nutrition and provide full spectrum light. Producing and laying eggs robs your bird of the vitamins, proteins, and calcium she needs to stay healthy. It is especially crucial during the breeding season that she is on a complete and balanced diet, which in most cases will be a pelleted diet. A seeded diet supplemented with vitamins is not adequate. Ask your veterinarian to recommend a pelleted diet for your bird. Full spectrum sunlight is necessary for your bird’s calcium metabolism, and can be provided by unfiltered sunlight or by a full spectrum fluorescent bulb. 8. Avoid removing the eggs which your bird has already laid. Sometimes the easiest way to turn off the egg-laying cycle is to allow your bird to sit on her eggs. If your bird lays a few eggs and then sits on them, leave the eggs in the cage for 21 days or until she loses interest. If however she does not stop at 3 – 4 eggs and continues laying, this strategy may not work, and you should call your avian veterinarian for further suggestions. 9. Ask your veterinarian about hormone injections. In certain cases of excessive egg-laying, your veterinarian may recommend hormone injections in addition to the above environmental and dietary changes. Hormone injections are relatively safe and can help reduce egglaying in some birds. The effectiveness of hormone injections varies from bird to bird and can not be accurately predicted beforehand. 10. When in doubt, ask your avian veterinarian. If you have questions or concerns regarding your bird’s health, or if the above changes do not stop your bird from laying, please give us a call. We have helped hundreds of bird owners stop their birds from laying, and we can help you too. more stuff you can try. http://rationalparrot.com/tease.html How to make your parrot stop wanting to make babies 101 Stop the sensual stroking and cuddling. Scratch your parrot on the head, under the chin, preen off those obnoxious pinfeathers, but don't spend all your time petting him or her. Teach your parrot to enjoy being out of their cage somewhere other than on you. This means a playstand, a movable perch, sitting on the drawer of the computer desk destroying magazines, whatever. Yes, I realize this is all but impossible for some parrots, cockatoo owners. Remove the environmental triggers for hormonalness. 12 hours of darkness a night, a balanced diet of either fresh foods in the right proportions or pellets and veggies with some seed as treats (or part of the diet for the species that do better with them), rearranging their cage on a weekly basis to keep things from being too settled. Stop letting the parrot go on top of their cage, particularly for male birds. That's what they do, when the female is nesting -- stand near their nest and defend it if need be. It doesn't give them the moving around as a flock mentality that a moving playstand can. We do and have done this with all of our parrots, and each of them have a preference for a person. What, then, if your parrot already thinks you're their mate and attacks your SO? Stop all mating triggers immediately and work to balance out the parrots feelings some. The least favored person does all the really really cool things, the most favored person does all the terrible things. As an example, if I had a parrot that prefered my partner, I would make a list of all of their favorite things and all of their least favorite things. I would do their favorite things and my partner would do their least favorite things. In the end, the parrot would very likely have a balanced level of affection for us both, which is one way to prevent a one person bird.

thats awesome. and thanks for posting Echo's weight. my cag is 18 weeks today and i weighed her this morning and she came in at 423 grams. I picked her up on Nov 4th and took her straight to my vet and she weighed 388 grams. im not sure how she rates on body frame size wise, i do know she is bigger than my orange wing and he was 34 years old. could you post a link or pic of the travel cage you used? all I have right now is the airline carrier she came to me in. it was ok for a 2 hour plane ride but way too small for a several day road trip.

im not the one making a inflammatory thread title with "death warrant tied to their clipped wings" then get upset when somebody dares challenges the opinions within That title alone speaks volumes on his stance, he fully knew a provocative title like that would illicit a response and he got a strong one. You are 100% correct we all have opinions he voiced his and i voice mine.

my orange wing did the exact same thing. but it was the ONLY time you could touch him period. if you tried to scratch him and he wasn't giving you the OK by holding on a bar of the cage you will get bit and bit hard enough that a trip to the bathroom for a band-aid was in order. my CAG loves her beak rubbed, especially the really short feathers next to her lower mandible.

ummm getting medical opinions from a doctor and animal nurse is not hearsay. a vet giving advice on something inside their expertise, like a sick dog, then it would not be hearsay. In a court of law this would be referred to as expert testimony. so be it. friends are cool and ive made a few on this board. but i want correct info based upon fact and study, not one based upon groundless speculation or baseless feelings. there are no innuendos at all about what i said. his writings are interesting to read but lack a whole lot of substance. they are a one way opinion piece meaning you either subscribe to his ideology or you are not worth talking to. His stance that a clipped bird has a death sentence hanging over it is a perfect example. making a thread with my name in the title is a direct call out and i will respond with my own opinions. You are right I will not follow his advice, and i will challenge anybody who tries to pass off information that is flat out wrong especially when its dealing with the health of a person or animal. One member on here lost his young grey by feeding him garlic after reading on some loons website that no harm can come from giving a parrot garlic.

our blender crapped out on us a few months back. ive been eyeballing this exact blender and want it.

you are welcome and keep posting vied of sunny and your cooking. :-)

what claims did i make by hearsay? what do you want me to say? your vets told you different than what my vet and my friend that is a vet told me. honestly i dont see it like that, Sorry shanlung but you called me out by making this thread about a posting i made in other thread that had nothing to do with you. so ill take that to mean its ok to voice my open honest opinion. there are a few people on this forum who know A LOT about greys from behavior interpretation/modification, diets, personalities, human interaction... and give good solid advice. shanlung is not one of them. all i see are long long long blogs that are hard to follow, full of personal opinions, and free flighting parrots that he has hooked up to a fishing line of which he has lost one bird twice and another bird once. sounds pretty irresponsible to me. im curious, shanlung, why did you get kicked off and banned the other parrot forums? TAMU is a major veterinary studies university so yea they have a few avian/exotic specialist on staff and as professors. http://vetmed.tamu.edu/services/zoological

well how is the R2D2 training going? i have played the R2D2 souns on my phone and it sure did get the attention of my parakeet, my grey just cocked her head a couple times then went back to munching on her squash. what did you use to make the macro? i have thought about doing this just using windows task scheduler to kick off a file and use its scheduling functions for frequency. not a very clean way of doing this but i hate code. :-)

i dont understand much of what you said but if i were you I would get your bird to a avian vet. Dr. Jeffery Kenton Flamingo Pet Clinic 2675 E. Flamingo Rd. Las Vegas, NV 89121 (702)734-9761 http://www.flamingopetclinic.vetsuite.com/Templates/ContentPages/Clinic_Info/OurServices.aspx Dr. Mary Lee, Lone Mountain Animal Hospital 6688 W. Cheyenne Ave. Las Vegas, NV 98108 (702)645-3116 http://lmah.net/

i made your meatloaf over the weekend and it was awesome. I think the difference is the Worcestershire sauce, I have never used that in a meatloaf.

i seriously disagree with that statement. there is plenty of proof to show just the opposite. Take Shaoolung for example. he took his grey EVERYWHERE with him. car rides, hikes, new homes and his tink was a well adjusted grey. from his posting there was little routine. greys in the wild change their routine every single day. it can be brought on by changes in the weather, food/water sources, predators, nesting areas.... their whole world is about change. look on youtube and see all the people who put a harness on their grey and go out into the big scary world with them. my own grey for example, we moved her cage to put the Christmas tree up and she is just fine with that change. we have people over all the time ans she is ok with that change. during the work week i getup at 6am and uncover her cage around 6:20 when i go to the kitchen to make coffee. on the weekends she my not get uncovered until 8 am or so. and she has no problems with that. so yea, change is NOT

sorry but you are the one making all the claims not me, you trying to appear to be an expert on this matter not me. I am trying to get a firmer grasp of what is best for my bird for her happiness and health. All of your evidence is anecdotal, as in being second-hand accounts of events or hearsay. to answer your question what is "scientifically" proven to me? well i never said that anything needed to be "scientifically" proven. but i will say this. I have a niece who is a senior veterinarian technician at Texas A&M university emergency animal clinic. and i also have a good friend who is a small animal vet who went to Colorado state university vet program. both have told me from THEIR first hand experience that they see far fewer injuries from clipped birds than unclipped birds. that info is not opinion its not second hand knowledge nor is it hearsay. its its direct observance of what comes in through their doors. your own evidence that you posted from your online poll supports this. my point to you is to refrain from giving your opinion as fact when it clearly is not. statements like and are prime examples of your opinion only. sorry but a poll on a forum is about as anecdotal as one can get. there are a few questions you did not ask and different scenarios that you did not consider. 1. when a clipped bird escaped how long was it since the bird was clipped? 2. was the clip a radical one to prevent no flight? if so then it was badly 3. was it a 6 month old clip and the owners didn't realize that Polly could fly again. 4.. how did the bird escape? was it because the owners got complaisant and reckless by leaving doors open thinking that their bird could not fly? 5. of the 8 escaped clipped birds how many were recovered and what happened to the ones not recovered?

ok, i have a question on this. yes i realize that all parrots dislike change and some will argue that greys dislike change more than other species of parrots. however I know several parrot owners who board their birds and when i took my dog in for his annual my vet was boarding 2 greys from different owners. my friends parrots (a macaw and a DYH) do just fine at the boarders and the two greys at my vet were happy as clams and they were on a 2 week board. i dunno,i guess i just dont subscribe to how fragile parrots are to change as others do. yes i realize each parrot is different with differnt reaction, what i am referring to is the overall blanket belief that "OMG we put a new chair in the room, poor polly is going to freak!" nobody knows your parrot better than you do. if you know beyond a doupt that there are going to be issues with your bird when you move then i suggest you consult with a expert parrot behaviorist. if you don't know for sure then don't worry about it.

shanlung, i appreciate your passion on this subject and really didn't expect you or anybody else to start a new thread about wing clipping due to a posting i made in another thread. Your passion is commendable but all is see from your posting on this subject is an opinion based editorial based on anecdotal evidence.

lol nice./...

thanks for posting. i watched your meatloaf video and im going to try that minus the bell-peppers (i cant stand bell peppers in meatloaf :-) ) and smoker, I have one but its wood fired and its too cold out to be messing with it .

just let him check out his new house like you did when you first got him. birds adapt,

Thank you for the reply. I can totally understand how this can happen. i know i would be crushed and i am on the fence of sending that lady a email asking her to change her garlic advice along with links explaining why she is wrong.