Greywings

Get healthy take care of yourself you don't want to end up in the hospital again. ask teh neighborhood kids to keep their eys open as well the more eyes the better.

Ok now I understand more about the intereaction, it sounds as if his inner Drama Queen is getting all the feedback his big Too ego is wanting. You have to find a way to avoid the bite -sounds easy but I know he is a silent flier, so perhaps a partial wing trim just to slow him down. You can hear Harry U2 coming as his wings do make a swishing sort of sound and we can get a forearm up in time. I can just picture that scene with those painful landings.

LOL Too funny

Gilbert sounds much stronger than he used to be, certainly not afraid to let you know when things are not to his liking. Travel safely and can't wait to discover if Gilbert make another step forward when he returns to home base.

Give us idea of the shape and dimensions of the room you are using please.

Mites "Mites are nasty little external parasites that feast on your Bearded Dragon's blood. They also reproduce like crazy. They tend to be unwittingly transported from one reptile to another. The first thing you want to do when you have mites is make sure the animal is in absolute quarantine. Don't even let things it has touched near the other animals. Treat the animal itself by washing in a bath of diluted Betadine and then going over all spikes and crevices with a Betadine-soaked cotton swab. Avoid contact with the eyes. Also treat the entire cage with a mite treatment you can get at pet stores, and then disinfect the whole thing. Then you'll have to do a the whole thing again in a couple of weeks, when the new eggs hatch. Mites are a pain to get rid of, you may have to repeat this process multiple times. However, it is necessary, as too many mites on your lizard can kill him." I think your Vet may use Ivermectin to treat the mites it would be best to check with a Vet prior to starting treatment. Reptile mites should only affect your Beardie rather then mammals or birds.

Mites Mites are nasty little external parasites that feast on your Bearded Dragon's blood. They also reproduce like crazy. They tend to be unwittingly transported from one reptile to another. The first thing you want to do when you have mites is make sure the animal is in absolute quarantine. Don't even let things it has touched near the other animals. Treat the animal itself by washing in a bath of diluted Betadine and then going over all spikes and crevices with a Betadine-soaked cotton swab. Avoid contact with the eyes. Also treat the entire cage with a mite treatment you can get at pet stores, and then disinfect the whole thing. Then you'll have to do a the whole thing again in a couple of weeks, when the new eggs hatch. Mites are a pain to get rid of, you may have to repeat this process multiple times. However, it is necessary, as too many mites on your lizard can kill him. Usually these parasites are host specific which means they should only be a problem for your Beardie I believe Ivermectin is another treatment that your Vet may utilize to treat your reptile. Do check with your Vet before you begin treatment.

yOU BARGAIN

Make the spray fall over them from above it is much less threatening, you might also want to find some Bach Flower Rescue Remedy to put on his food. Did your Vet run any blood work? Some toys especially bells can have a part that is made of a toxic metal such as zinc or lead and that can certainly be one of the causes of plucking especially if it starts at the crop area. Sometimes an Xray can show the metal fragments.

They repeat what ever they want to and we have little control over their selection, some times I wonder who is training whom.

They do just fine at our temperature comfort range. Many Zoo's keep them outside year round even in very warm climates and they do well. They live in wooded or forested areas through out much of Australia with temperature ranges from the 90 F 33 C to the low 40's F over their range. "The Southern NSW Mallee Important Bird Area comprises an irregularly shaped 8232 km2 tract of land in south-western New South Wales, Australia. It is roughly bounded by the Murray River in the south, the Darling River in the west, and the Willandra Lakes in the north. It lies north-west of the town of Balranald, north of Robinvale and east of Mildura. The exact boundaries of the Important Bird Area (IBA) are defined by the presence of remnant mallee woodland and shrubland habitat, excluding areas that have been cleared or support other plant communities. The landscape is mainly mallee on flat or undulating sand plains, much of which is used for grazing. The climate is semi-arid; temperatures range from a mean maximum in January of 33°C to a July minimum of 4.5°C; mean annual rainfall is about 280 mm. The site includes several small reserves as well as Mallee Cliffs National Park and part of Mungo National Park.[1] "

Thsoe red factor or mosaic red feathers can come int to replace the normal grey feathers when a bird has been plucking for a while and the feather follicle responds with a color change. Kind of like a scar tissue thing with us humans. Or a dog that has had an injury or surgery and the hair comes back in a darker color as black on a grey dog or dark brown on a tan dog. There are other causes including genetic ones but this is the most common reason.

I love them my dream bird an independant sort, but Black Palm Cockatoos are more expensive and quieter. I know a lady that has both species she has 2 Major Mitchells and she has 2 Black Palms she enjoys the MM2's for their beauty and the female enjoys people on her own terms the male would rather just be a bird. oF The BP2'S the female she got after it was weaned and the male she has had for a while and is an older bird she re homed. Both the palm 2's are very good human interactive birds-love those macadamia nuts and enjoy all their toys. By the way she says the BP2's sound like bells and talk about a BIG beak, wow. Palm Cockatoo $ 15,999.00 to 20,000.00

Fingers crossed and hoping for a safe outcome.

Do call all the local Vet offices, your local animal shelters as people often turn to them)and never give up. I will cross post for you on two other sites.

Your Vet sounds spot on, it is best to make corrections slowly to avoid having a sore beak and not eating well. I have seen crossed beak before -not too uncommon really. It should respond well to the therapy your Vet is providing. What a sweety he looks to be.

We will all look forward to the progress on your new project and expect some photos too!

Still have Cockatiels and think they are wonderful but this poor guy was stressed and did not want the meds he needed. My fault for not using a better hold.

So very true, learning to read them is a learned skill and it takes time. Good work.

Greys seem to keep their beaks sharper so the bite is painful but those Amazons can hang on and chew. The worst bite I ever received was from a Cockatiel who was very angry at being restrained and bit through my fingernail and into the finger. Had to be pried off too, the stinker.

Jeff has nailed it avoiding the bite by avoiding those situations or triggers will save your feelings and your lips.

What a relief for you both.

Patience is indeed a virtue that pays off with Greys.

Relax and enjoy that reunion, I am from afar.

You have to love a bird who knows his cages.