Dave007

AND NOW LADIES AND GENTLEMEN,!!!!!!! ((DRUM ROLL) ) The true answer that everyone has been waiting for concerning this dilemma IS ~~~~~~~PARANOIA . Congrats to Quicky Greys will blush when they're anticiipating, excited, fearful, agitated, dealing with what's about to happen, unsure of what's about to happen. Warm feet and cold feet are common. Head bobs are usual and common with all greys and other species of parrots, especially with music that catches their ears and with a person bobbing their head while close to the bird. Sorry about the love connection but rest assured, there's alway that certain person around the corner.

First off , nothing about that Email answer you got looks legitimate or even close to legitimate and just about everyone here knows that. Any place that is selling eggs is a no no. The types of info you would like to be posted is very subjective and possibly even illegal. If people are scammed , they can report it to the proper authorities. Some do, some don't. Listing different businesses on a public board (like this one) without absolute proof can possibly result in a libel suit. If people are scammed, they can come to bird boards and tell other members about the scam and warn them to stay away from that company. There may not have been a scam but maybe a misunderstanding or maybe it was a scam. Subjective. Proof? Illegitimate Breeders. What constitutes illegitimate breeders? There's a wide variety of information available concerning the purchase of any animals including parrots. All people are told to go through a variety of steps when buying a parrot. That's if they're looking for that advice. There's guarantees, warranties, refunds, basic vet visits. If the person wants to avoid or really doesn't show interest in any of those things but instead decides to purchase a much less expensive parrot and the parrot is not good quality and has health issues, that's the buyer's fault. The seller can't be faulted. The seller is a scumbag for selling inferior animals that don't come with guarantees, warranties, refunds, exchange clauses. Some people may get the said items when buying a bird but feel like they've been cheated because the bird isn't banded.The buyer is simply an idiot for not looking into things. Putting the name of that seller on a public list( especially a sticky) is illegal. There's even a possibility that the said person may change their selling methods. We tell people here to see the animal first before buying. Sight unseen is not good. We give a basic set of questions to ask before purchasing a parrot. First and foremost, the bird should be fully weaned. At least 85% of problems can be avoided. We tell people what basic questions should be asked concerning the parrots that are being sold. If they don't wanna do that it's their problem. As far as Cameroon, Africa, it's a very well known fact that birds can't be imported from one country to another no matter what country it is unless there's a law that has to do with extreme quarantine by either country. Africa is excluded. That also includes all other animals. BUT, if a person doesn't know about these things, it's up to the person to find out about it. That's part of what bird boards are all about. We can help people about going forward but we can't tell them to go to the left or right. In your very first post, you asked about buying a parrot online------That comes under the category of sight unseen. If you did that and there was a problem, we can't classify that seller as being bad or good nor will we post the seller's name. Another person may have done the same thing and gotten a great bird from the same seller. Even though you're visually impaired or blind, you should have another person with you and then shop around. Another person can greatly help. You can get help here on how to shop around and what questions to ask etc etc.

Feathers Try to think of a normal feather which is thick and rounded at the end Example =================) Now, concerning chewing. There's 2 types. Example of one type ===================< The amount of chewing can just be at the end or even higher but no matter where it ends, it still has that inverted V This is what happens to a parrot who's chewing the feather but not plucking it out. Another type of chewing ( no diagram for this one) A parrot will start to preen the feathers but also pulls out bits and pieces of feather off of the shaft. What remains is a very thinned out feather which can be seen because the comparasion to other normal feathers is obvious. The ends aren't usually touched. This can happen to just a few feathers or more feathers. Basically,the feather looks very thin and raggy. This can happen to many feathers or just a few. It all depends on the bird. A bird can reach just about every feather on it's body except neak and head feathers. If your bird doesn't have a skin problem, it's best to periodically mist the bird's body and skin thoroughly to keep the feathers softer and cleaner. I don't know the room temp at your place but a more humid area is better than a dry one. Feathers need a wet atmosphere just like they get in the wild. Plucking is when the bird pull out the whole feather from the skin. That can also involve lots of feathers. I have a thread here in the health room concerning chronic and acute plucking. http://www.greyforums.net/forums/showthread.php?198942-Chronic-Plucking-(-Different-than-acute-plucking)-Some-Facts The long feathers and tail feathers---they fall out when the blood supply in the feather dries up. That means that a new feather will soon replace the dead one. They're only feathers that have a blood supply and can die at any time of the year. This isn't molting although some of those feathers may fall out but it's just a coincidence. Noise Greys are known to be frightened by sudden loud noises like thunder and some are afraid of lightening. Other greys aren't bothered by either. It all has to do with the bird and the best thing to do is provide an area where loud noises don't sound so loud. In your situation, a cover at night is a good idea. Beak--yes it has a point . It needs that point. The beak is the bird's equavelent to a person's hand. Everything it touches is first touched by the beak.The beak should only be filed down when abnormal growth occurs. Having heavy woods pieces and other non breakable items is a good idea because the bird will constantly chew on them. This may also help the bird to show less interest in the feathers. Hope this helps a bit. PS---This problem does happen to lots of young greys but they outgrow it.

Parrot poop should not smell. It is normally and indication of an GI infection. Bactriea stinks. Just because your bird doesn't act sick does not mean he is not sick. By the time birds show signs of illness they can be sick. or maybe has relapsed. He may just need another course of antibiotics, which you vet may be willing to give him if you call the vet and tell him what is happening. After all, the same thing happens with people. Diet can make a difference in how poop smells. If the diet is too high in protein the poop will be smelly. However, you do not indicate what you are feeding your bird. A macaw should have many large nuts in the diet. Nuts regulate a macaw's system. Your diet or something in the environment can be reinfecting your bird. I Call the vet and ask what he thinks about a refill. You should try to calm your mom a bit. She doesn't have a very good attitude to have towards any animal that may be suffering. Sometimes, owning a large bird such as a macaw can be periodically messy.

At the same site, the better item to get is http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Avian-Adventures-Poquito-Hotel/dp/B0018CFUKE/ref=pd_sim_sbs_petsupplies_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=125QFV8391BMQBGDNPMV It's cheaper and is made for the same bird. PS---the parrot pictured on the cage (eklectus) is the same size as a grey.

African Grey Parrots will "chicken scratch" at the bottom of their cage or on the carpet. This is a normal behavior for them as in the wild, they do this to loosen dirt and mud to search for food but that greatly decreases by the time when they reach 1 yr old. Personally, I don't agree with the breeder. No grey gets intensely attached to a person or bonded after one day in a new house. They're usually curious about their new surroundings. The grey may have been doing this because of a habit or circumstance that went on at the breeder's home. Maybe I'm wrong but I get the feeling that you don't have a grating on the bottom of the cage and if that's true, you need to get one in order for your bird not to step in feces, rotted food etc Also-----a grey's normal sized cage is approx. 28"x 36" x 55" high. The measurements you gave are for various conure type species (much smaller bird) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v50/DaveVP/b9df4031-1866-4f24-a41c-b5fe0bffa458.jpg .

Warning!! Due to the frequency of human-bear encounters, the BC Wildlife is advising hikers, hunters, fishermen or any others using the the recreational or work related function to take extra precautions in the field. We advise the outdoorsmen to wear little noisy bells on clothing to any bears that might be close by so you don't take them by surprise. We also advise anyone using the outdoors to carry 'Pepper Spray' in case of any encounter with a bear. Outdoorsmen should also be on the lookout to fresh bear activity and be able to tell the difference between black bear feces and grizzly bear feces. Black bear shit is smaller and contains lots of berries and squirrel fur. Grizzly bear shit has bells in it and smells like pepper.

All parrots bite a little including cockatoos. Cockatoos are sneaky biters. Amazons are sneaky biters. No warnings. The most important thing about a grey is that they're one of those parrots that do give out signs of body language that will let a person know how it feels and what his/her intentions/feeling are before it reacts. Read this and always keep it in an area where it can be easily gotten to. A grey's beak is actually it's arm which is the tester of all objects including a person's body parts. http://www.greyforums.net/forums/showthread.php?109373-Body-language-most-frequently-seen

Yes, parrots have be successfuly reared by parents in the wild for a million years and the chicks stayed wild. It has nothing to do with captive birds. I assume that this new law only applies to pet shops that are selling birds that are still being formula fed along with solid food? If not, who is to control what happens to people in their homes who take chicks away from parents and then continue the practice of exclusively hand feeding birds until the birds are weaned? The only way the law will work out there is if government is allowed to invade people's private residences whenever they want. In the US, that's against the law to do that unless animal abuse is actually going on and that usually applies to dogs. cats and other 4 legged animals. Another thing----it's sometimes very difficult to get some new young birds to get used to human beings ( potential buyers) after being with the parents for a long period of time. ( Often, aggression is starting with the chicks.) I know this as an absolute fact. I've gone thru this many, many times. I've sold parrots that were exclusively hand fed by me from very early ages and none of those chicks ever suffered mental or physical problems. It should be the breeder's decision as to when a young bird should be exclusively hand fed by the owners of the chick. The most secure and healthful way to achieve healthy birds is for the birds are completely weaned before selling which is mostly accomplished in a private breeder's home. That's why people say to seek out a private breeder as opposed to pet shop birds when desiring to buy a parrot. Things can be seen up close. The much more sensible and practical way to go is what they do in the UK----plain and simple----it's against the law to sell unweaned or pre weaned birds. It has nothing to do with how long the chicks actually stay with the parents. I think the better path to go is what the UK does. That's the rule that should be inforced in many countries. I do know that if government decided or insisted that they can just come in my house to see the breeders and chicks, they'd better be ready for a big lawsuit and a very angry aggressive dog that will growl or even bite intruders if I tell him to do it. Obviously, you can see that I'm anti government in many, many things they do when it comes to what they do no matter what the subject is.

It really necessary to spend huge amounts of time trying to find palm nuts. First of all, they're considered a hard to get item in the US. Second, they're very overpriced because they're hard to get. For those of you that really feel that their birds would be better off with the nuts, please remember that feeding palm oil plus the huge variety of nuts that are available all over the states will give you the same amount of values that palm nuts will give . Remember that in the wild, greys DO have palm nuts which include palm oil but they DON,T have access to almonds, walnuts, pecans, cashews, all of which contain various amounts of vitamins. Instead of expending energy trying to get palm nuts, try getting your bird used to the various nuts that're readily available in the US. Buying from overseas companies isn't too good you should remember that there's about 3 different types of palm nuts some of which of which is not for greys. In Africa, there's only one type of red palm nut. That's what greys eat. Queensland palm nuts are what different amazon species of parrots eat. Think about what's readily available. Many people don't spend nearly enough time trying to get their birds used to the nuts here. Also, after spending huge amounts of money trying to get red palm nuts that are for greys, that doesn't mean the grey will eat them.

Welcome to our group. You'll see many people who will trade stories and info. Right now, everyone's out to lunch. Enjoy the board.

The parrot is called-----Black-Headed Caique originally from the Amazon Rain Forest

This place doesn't deal with unweaned chicks that a person might wanna purchase. You're on the wrong board.

I hope you're not referring to a real incubator that has heat controls on it. Your bird is much too old for incubators. Incubators are foe eggs and chicks who are no more than 1 to 2 wks old.

Incubation is over. The word *incubation* has to do with the amount of time a hen spends sitting on the eggs until they hatch. Usually, after hatching the chicks stay with the hen until they're about 3 weeks old before being taken away. In your situation, the bird was given to you way before it should have been but it's too late to correct that. The next step is called *brooding* The chick stays in a tank ( about the same size as an old 10 gallon fish tank. The the tank is 1/2 covered with a towel and the tank is heated with a 40 to 60 watt bulb which sits on the top of the tank until the hick is about 6 wks old. That's the chick's temporary home. When in the box the chick should be introduced to chopped up veggies (green) and a few pieces of small fruit. The bottom of the tank which should always have a towel in it. Along with veggies, some little bits of cereal should also be added so the chick learns how to pick up and chew things. Veggies should be removed when they start to dry out and shrivel. Then a new batch is added. etc etc. Some small parrot mix should also be added. (size should be the type that's given to conures.) Hand feeding should continue about 4 times a day until the chich decides to refuse a feeding. That means the you should lesson the amount of feedings by 1. Let's say from 4 to 3. All the other foods should be given in increased amounts. A cage can be introduced when the chick is about 8 to 10 weeks old. The bird should have all the necessary foods available to him and they should be in a place in the cage where the chick can easily get to them. Perches should be put low in the cage so he/she can learn balance on perches. If the bird is afraid of the cage, put it back in the tank and try again the next day etc etc. Never decide when you should stop hand feeding the bird. Let the chick tell you when to stop hand feeding. What that means is that the chick will eventually refuse to accept a certain feeding as above. That's called abundance feeding which is the healthiest way to wean a parrot. Sometimes it takes a longer amount of time, sometimes it takes a shorter amount of time to each that time frame. All parrots are different from each other even tho they're the same species. So now you have a basic idea of what to do and never get an unweaned chick again. In many countries, it's illegal to sell unweaned chicks.

Celsius=====Farenheit 23°========73° 24°========75° 25°========77° 26°========78° 27°========80° 28°========82° 29°========84° 30°========86° 31°========87° 32°========89° 33°========91° 34°========93° 35°========95° 36°========96° 37°========98° 38°========100° 39°========102° 40°========104° 41°========105° 42°========107° 43°========109°

I sent you the PM you wanted

Nice to see you. Just a bit of info about budgies---very young male budgies have very light blue nares which eventually change to a darker blue. That blue can be easily seen. Male budgies' cere will always remain blue. Females budgies start off with a very light beige color which on the cere which eventually turns to pink which then changes to cherry red. The cherry red what the female adults have. Female budgies' cere will always remain pink/red depending on the age of the bird

http://www.greyforums.net/forums/showthread.php?189967-100-natural-aloe-vera-juice If this link isn't live, just look at the stickys in this health room. You'll see everything about aloe juice. I'll add that the juice can be put on with or without bathing the bird first. Most people just use the juice with or without bathing. The article I wrote has the same thing that you heard about but it isn't necessary. The most important thing to remember is about getting the actual skin wet. Juice is useless on wing and tail and other feathers that are waterproof. Any liquid just rolls off their waterproof feathers. It doesn't matter what fluid you use. Also, never dry off the bird after using sprays or water or juice. Let your bird stay soaked. Keep your bird away from drafty areas. The longer the fluid is on the skin the better it works. Next time you buy aloe juice, just go to any pharmacy or wallmart or other large supermarket that has a pharmacy area to get it.-----1 gal---$10.

Handfeeding a Baby Grey. 2008/04/16 15:07 Hand feeding a baby bird takes a great deal of time and effort.Something that shouldn't be considered by a novice.If possible it is best left to an experienced breeder.Don't be fooled by the pet store or breeder who tells you otherwise.Many sellers convince novice buyers to take an unweaned bird.The sooner a parrot chick is gone, the higher the profit ratio for the store or breeder. So it is in the interest of the seller to convince the buyer that hand feeding is safe and easy. With that said it is inevitable that some members will find themselves with a young unweaned baby.This thread will offer advice & guidance to help you successfully finish the hand feeding process. Formulas, Feeding Utensils, and Methods. With the recent advances in avian nutrition there are a number of commercially prepared handfeeding formulas, I.e...Kaytee Exact,Roudybush to name but a few.Formula must be served very warm (about 105 to 108 degrees). A human basil digital thermometer can be used to test the formula. Once you become familiar with the correct feeding temperature of formula, you can test it on the inside of your wrist before feeding.This chart is for guidelines only & each baby will vary slightly.. Mixing Formula.. Mixing your formula using Kaytee Exact is an easy process. It is designed to be mixed on a 1:2 ratio of formula to water. When measuring formula, use these guidelines: ( 1 tablespoon = ½ ounce = 15cc ) Mixing On A 1: 2 Ratio FORMULA WATER 1 tablespoon 1 ounce (30cc) 2 tablespoon 2 ounce (60cc) Preparing Your Formula.. 1. Add the correct amount of water to your measuring cup 2. Heat the water in your microwave until its very warm 3. Add measured amount of formula and stir 4. Feed at correct temperature (105 to 108 degrees) Amount To Feed At Each Feeding AMOUNT AGE OF BABY 20cc - 30cc 3-5 weeks 30cc - 45cc 5-9 weeks 45cc - 60cc 9-16 weeks The formula should have a consistency similar to thin catsup. Do not feed a formula that is too thick. Water is important for proper hydration of your baby. Babies will actually grow better on a thinner formula than one that is too thick. If you have a gram scale, you can see the exact consistency that you should be mixing the formula. Weigh out 7 grams of formula to be mixed with each ounce of water when mixing on a 1:2 ratio. The initial temperature of the water used to prepare the formula will have an effect on the consistency of the finished product so its important to measure your formula and water so you don't feed a formula too thin or too thick. Feeding Methods. The two most common methods of feeding are either by syringe or spoon, Personally I recommend spoon feeding as this closely resembles the action of the parents beak.you can spoon feed by taking a small metal spoon & bending the sides in to foram a V shape.Gently place the tip of the spoon in to the chicks mouth & tip the spoon up slightly.The chick will pump the spoon & swallow the formula.Techniques for Handfeeding your Baby.... 1. Feed the formula mixture using your spoon or syringe by dispensing the food along with the baby's feeding response (rhythmic bobbing motion). 2. Be sure to give the baby a chance to breath between bites of food. Do not try and feed too quickly. 3. Continue to feed until the baby's crop is nicely rounded or on weaning babies, until it refuses more food. 4. Do not overfeed, as this may result in regurgitation and possibly aspiration, which could cause death. 5. Clean any spilled food off your baby. 6. Clean and disinfectant all feeding equipment. 7. Discard any unused formula. Always mix up fresh formula for each feeding. Do not store mixed formula in refrigerator. Feeding Schedule Age In Weeks Number of Feedings Hours Between Time Frame 0 - 2 10 2 6:00am - 12:00am 2 - 3 6 3 7:00am - 11:00pm 3 - 4 5 4 7:00am - 10:30pm 4 - 5 4 5 7:00am - 10:30pm 5 - 10 3 7 8:00am - 10:00pm 10 - 13 2 12 9:00am & 9:00pm 13 - 16 1 24 9:00pm - 11:00pm Use the above schedule as a guideline for feeding your baby. Babies grow at different rates and should be treated individually. Some babies do better remaining on 2 feedings per day until completely weaned. Be sure your baby's crop empties completely at least once during each 24 hour period. After your baby reaches 7/ 8 weeks of age and has made the transition from brooder to cage, it is time to begin introducing weaning food.Pellet food is a safe food to start weaning your baby onto with the addition of seed,fruit, veggies.Also have a separate water dish next to his food.Check your baby's crop before the night time feeding to monitor how much if any of the warm, moistened pellets your baby is eating. Do not leave moistened pellets or vegetables in baby's cage more than 4 hours to prevent spoilage. At 13 weeks of age, your baby should be placed on one feeding per day which is given at 9:00pm - 11:00pm. By this time, your baby should have begun eating either dry pellets or the warm, moistened pellets. If your baby is not eating either moistened pellets or dry pellets at this time, then leave your baby on 2 feedings per day. Some babies can take longer to learn eating skills. Once your baby has been placed on one feeding per day, begin giving warm, moistened pellets in the morning around 8:00am as well as the afternoon at 5:00pm. Dry pellets and water should always be available as well. Check your baby's crop at night before the night time feeding . If it is very full with pellets that baby has eaten, then you can skip the night time feeding. If you are not sure, then offer the formula but don't force the baby to eat if the baby refuses.Your baby can lose up to 15% of its weight during the weaning stage. Once baby is weaned, its important to continue monitoring how much it actually eats by feeling its crop and watching its weight. Remember that weaning time is a very stressful event in your baby's life. Never try and force your baby to wean by withholding formula. The above information is to be used a guidline & each baby will vary slightly in it's development.

Glad to help. You should have no problems since your bird isn't a biter.

There's really nothing drastic that's happening in that area right now. The area is definitely raw but that not unusual in bald areas. That's why it's pink (skin) More complete instructions concerning the aloe gel or glycerin------just make sure you rub it in a little. Repeat for a few days. If your bird is a biter, get someone to help you hold the bird while you put it on. Neigher item is toxic. Birds can lick it with no problems although since both items are considered to be soothers, your bird won't even pay attention to it because it's soothing. In the future bald spots will appear. It's not unusual for it to happen in different areas that a bird can get to. That's why you should have gel around. Until you get either it, just keep the area moist a couple of times a day. PS, concerning those larger feathers---those feathers aren't part of a molting process. They simply fall out during the year ( any time of the year) when they die. Sometimes it happens when they're molting but that's just a coincidence. There's no set amount that will out. Sometime 1, sometimes 3, sometime 2, etc etc. PS---calm down.

Periodically, bald spots can appear on various areas especially during molting. The skin is itchy, the bird preens the dead feathers because of the itch and sometimes overpreens areas. That can create bald spots. All the white down feathers falling off is the beginning of molting. Molting starts that way. Usually there's no bald spots but it can happen in itchy areas. That's also common with overpreening. The larger flight feathers, the smaller covert feathers, the tail feathers fall off during the whole year. There's no specific time. When those larger feathers fall, that's the sign that the feathers have died and new ones are ready to replace them. For areas that are bald, some aloe vera gel can be used on the bald areas. If you can't get the aloe gel at the pharmacy, put some glycerin on the area. ( glycerin has a vegetable base). It can be gotten at a pharmacy or large supermarkets that have a pharmacy attached. A bottle of aloe gel costs about $5 to $6 dollars. It will last a long time and it's an item that you should always have around the house . The bald spot should go away in about 2 weeks. I doubt that a vet is needed right now.

Ok, thanks alot

Do you know what the cause of death was?