Dave007

*******Note: He has been with us for a week only he was in a cage with his brother/ sister******* Well, you never said anything about that before. Your bird is extremely young. When baby greys are in a clutch they constantly make little noises, chirps, whistles to each other as they get older. What your bird is going is a carry over fro when he was snuggled up with his clutch mates. That eventually goes away. PLUS, you never said that you've only had the bird for 1wk. You'll need to get used to and study all the different things that greys do. If this was another type of parrot, you'd have to do the same thing. My opinion is that your bird isn't making any irritating noises. It's just bothering you and you'll need to get ready for other type sounds they make. I could understand if your bird was squawking, yelling or screeching but your bird isn't doing any of those things

Droppings change in consistency all the time. A bird with diarrhea won't eat at all. The solid fecal matter can be green, red, yellow and other colors according to the color of the solid food. Besides solid droppings, there's urates and that can be clear, white, cream color. There's also urine which mixes in with the urates. The color of urine is clear or white. Apples and other fruits won't cause diarrhea but will definitely cause very loose droppings. Fruit should only be given once or twice a wk and each feeding of fruit should be very small. You have a 3 mt old ,extremely young grey and as the bird starts to eat more solid food there will be changes in droppinngs. You have to start experimenting with different types of green vegetables. Veggies should be part of the main diet. As far as throwing or picking out certain seed, you'll simply have to experiment with different brands of seed until he settles on one. When a bird finishes a weaning period and solids are introduced, that's when experimenting begins for the owner. whenever we are home he hears us and does not stop screaming/screaching/ making high pitch noises and he does not stop untill he falls asleep on our laps whilst watching TV. Your bird is taking advantage of your love and kindness. You;re offering all things to make a bird quiet down. Basically, you're spoiling him. Now's the time to set the rules. It's the same thing when a dog whines and whines and won't shut up until it's allowed on the couch. I don't know where your cage is but it shouldn't be in an area near a TV when you. Try to put a cover on the cage at night. Others will give other suggestions

This is a well done video -- from egg to exploration by hummingbirds

You've had him for 2 weeks. Is there any particular reason why you wanna bathe/spray him? A 4 yr old rehomed grey needs a lot of work in order to fit into a new environment. Bathing should be on the bottom of your list of things to do especially with a bird that bites a little or bites alot. Don't believe everything you read or hear about bathing greys. They can go a long time without bathing. Stick to the more important issues here. Don't irritate him or you'll get no where with him.

There's confirmed cases of problems for birds, dogs and horses concerning cherry trees and or branches... Some folks lean toward using cherry wood, but not the bark, under the premise that the bad chemicals are primarily in the layer under the bark. Do you know what or where that layer is? Do you see what I'm getting at here? When there are an abundance of sure safe woods, why use one that has bark with potential bad stuff in it? Suppose there were no confirmed cases of dead birds from cherry trees. If cherry turns out to be a subtle problem, would you want your bird to be the first confirmed case? I suspect there are cases which haven't been reported but not documented. There must be hundreds of birds dying each year due to real causes that we don't know about. Also, concerning the actual cherry fruit. The pit in the middle is extremely toxic and parrots like to crack open pits so anytime a person wants to feed a cherry to a parro, the pit must be first removed/. Another thing about your neighbor's tree----have any idea how many times it's come in contact with animals who are disease carriers? How many animals pissed on it?

You're not bothering me. The typical reaction after been fed a good amount of food with the crop fully extended is for a chick to fall forward onto his crop. That may have scared you. They stay that way for a while. They also go to sleep pretty quickly after they eat. But looking up any respiratory issues he might have developed I read about tail bobbing I don't know what you read but tail bobbing and respitory problems have nothing to do with each other. I freaked thinking he probably vomited but couldn't get it out and aspirated it Now you're starting to worry me and freak me out. No one told you to do this and you were told that the crop would be as big as a golf ball or even larger after feeding. I brought the syringe near his head without even touching it he still wanted more You were already told that that would happen. His tail makes an upwards and outwards movement when he vocalises but not when he is silent or sleeping/resting. Very rarely after maybe 15 normal breaths he makes a slight whistle even in his sleep I'll be blunt here. Every little thing that your bird is doing which is natural for a parrot to do is being scrutinized by you and you seem to be coming up with negative thoughts. To the point here----this is why we on this board will always gived a thumbs down when it comes to getting unweaned chicks. Honestly, I do think you're paranoid and more importantly, your bird is gonna pay the price.\

TAGs have a great personality, are people friendly, not afraid of much, easy to socialize, not known to be strong biters, take to different foods easily, don't talk as much as CAGs but will talk to you in their own language on a constant basis. If you have others in the family, make sure they're involved with the TAG. So look at this as a sign of the future.

I think you may have misunderstand what I said but I'll try to be clearer. First off, amount of food-----I don't remember you saying anything about the actual amount you use but I can tell you that the amount per feeding is way too small. Feedings should start out with about 45 to 55 cc per feeding but if your bird won't eat that much and refuses the whole amount, then don't try to give him the whole feeding, just what he'll accept. Making extra formula is no big deal. Try doing this 3 or 4 times a day with the same amount and you can eventually know how much he'll accept. Basically, the bird is telling you when to ease up on each amount. It's called abundance feeding. The next step concerning abundance feeding has to do with the actual amount of feedings a bird will take in one day. A bird will refuse one feeding because the bird's desire to eat more solid material. It's not the bird's choice. It's nature's choice. Some birds will get to that point sooner or later but the important thing to remember that you have to let the bird tell you. Pulling away or spitting up a feeding says it all. That means one less formula feeding a day and an increase in more solid food. Slowly, a bird will refuse all formula feedings. But you can't decide when this is gonna happen. Wild different greys, the time may a longer or shorter amount of time. The bird will you when that happens. The crop==crops don't burst. Any full crop will hang to the ground and be bigger than a golf ball. *******There is the small amount of urates, a well formed brown poop, and fluid. But some times there is only fluid. Is that normal? 15 minutes after that he takes a regular crap****** Just like a person, a bird sometimes won't piss and shit at the exact same time, When you only see fluid, that means the bird is urinating. Birds urinate 5 x more than they defecate on any particular day. Their big dump usually happens in the morning. As far as odor, bird's feces does smell a little--sometimes but not all of the time. Of course I don't smell the feces from 6 in. That's a bit extreme. Another thing abount smell. Some people don't smell it. Some people smell it a little. Some smell it more strongly. It's all in the nose of the sniffer/snorter. er. If I try to scratch his head he starts to eat my finger making his rhythmic head bobbing movements. Its like the sight of my hands means food. Exactly!

1------After I feed him he stretches his neck out and makes sliding movements with his lower jaw/beak. He's cleaning the inside of the lower beak----normal 2------He started walking around more on his claws than his knees today so I'm guessing I'm doing something right. But a lot of times I find him using his beak or head as an assist in getting up. You have a very very young bird. As he gets a bit older he'll use claws even more. The same thing goes for the beak and head. Those areas are the common things to use when getting from one spot to another---very normal. 3---- Should I just let him feed till he refuses further? And his poop is like one solid turd with a very small amount of white stuff around it and a bunch of fluid. Yes, keep feeding him until he refuses the food. As he gets older, (much older) he'll start to refuse a whole feeding. That's the time to eliminate one formula feeding. Using this method is called*abundance feeding*. Let the bird tell you when he doesn't want formula, not the other way around. Don't put time limits on the weaning process---1 bird may take approx. 16 weeks to wean, another may take approx. 28, 30 weeks etc etc. 4---*And his dark grey wing feathers are out now, * Wonderful 5----And his poop is like one solid turd with a very small amount of white stuff around it and a bunch of fluid. Parrots and other birds shi-t and piss at the same time, most of the time. The solid turd is feces. the white material is called urates, the clear fluid is urine. Sometimes you'll see more urine than feces and or just the opposite----normal 6------So should I use a warm wet cloth to clean that off? The rest of him is all fuzzy and furry now but his back is matted with formula. Yes, use room temp water and gently wipe the crud off. The breeder should have done that before selling the bird.

Within the last 5 to 6 yrs, after facts and benefits to birds were found out, sales went up and prices went down a bit(competition). Most of the basic stores were already doing business so the important thing now a days is price. Loads of stores simply added the item to their inventory. I don't know the price you're paying nor the quantity you're getting but as time goes on, you'll soon be shopping around. As far as what you mentioned, the magic words are the basic description of the product.

Yeh, most palm oil smells bad and tastes even worse but the birds like it. Getting the fruit--------well actually it's not a fruit. The innards is a nut. The name on a container says Palm Nuts. The nut is surrounded by the oil. The parrot cracks open the soft shell, eats the oil and works its way to the nut and it's eaten. In the wild, palm nuts are their basic food. As far as getting them---they're only sold by a few merchants across the US and they're extremely expensive and the quantity in a can is small. It's easier to get them in the UK.

Ok, what general questions do you have?

It's not a common occurrence with greys but if it does happen, the grey will more than likely be an adult bird who's approx. passed her 15th to 22th birthday. General procedure is---The eggs need to be left with the female for a full incubation cycle which is 31 to 33 days. No extra nesting material should be put in. Eggs shouldn't be disturbed. Extra attention shouldn't be given because the female may bite.The female will stat ignoring the eggs as she nears the end of her cycle. Only then should the eggs be removed one by one, 1 every other day until they're gone. Remove any nesting material or what could possibly look like nesting material away from the cage, inside and out.

So, you really have no problems, right? She's just a grey who's acting like a grey. Read this http://www.greyforums.net/forums/showthread.php?109373-Body-language-most-frequently-seen

OATMEAL---go to the supermarket and buy some Quaker Oats oatmeal. The have boxes that have individual packets ( 10 to a box) that have different flavors all mixed into one box. Make sure the oatmeal is warm and very lumpy, not smooth. Also try some yogurt which has good bacteria in it.

Also try some flavored warm oatmeal as treat.

PS---my edit feature doesn't work here anymore so I'll just say that add hazelnuts to that and also have a decent parrot seed mixture available. Seed is not as bad as some have said.

I think you should try out pur nuts---almonds(shelled or unshelled or both. walnuts, pecans, unsalted pistachios etc. You should get much better results. Mash is not a treat. Parrots like nuts.Greys are extremely tempermental. They're very territorial and at diffent times ct differently about their home (cage)Their temporary atitudes can change very quickly. Sometimes they'll like the male in the house for a while and then the female and then both. During a natural hormonal, seasonal time, they can get very bitchy, nasty or extremely aloof, especially females. On the other hand, they may not act differently at all. Their habits change in new living quarters. She came from one house, dealth with a certain way/ had certain habits then came to a new environment and acts a different way. It may take quite a while for that new change to be noticable, many times, more than 6 mts.15 yrs in one place? 6 mts in a new place. That's a huge change and patience is a virtue here. Right now, I would bet that everything that was done in the old house is not happening in the new house, not that you're doing anything bad. The bird is adjusting and it takes quite a while. There's few people who get a 15, 20, 25 yr old bird as a rehome. That's a bird that's pretty settled in her ways. People also have problems with rehomes when they're only 3, 4, 5, 6 yrs old. Go with the flow, relax and let her develop her own reactions to a new place, new environment, new house habits, new people etc.There relly doesn't sound like there's any major thing wrong. Biting?? All parrots bite at different times for many reasons. Some bite in different ways then others. Cape parrots are extremely predictable. Greys aren't because greys are more aloof and like being alone at different times. You'll soon see what the personality is really like. There's people on this board that have young birs and those birds take to certain people in a house so nothing you're saying is unusual. The only thing you have to worry about is when a bird actually goes out of his/her way to inflict serious dmage like flying off a cge and intentionally trying to find a particular person to bite. To a grey and other parrots,putting a hand in a cage, sometimes not tolerated. You're having a problem there? Don't put your hand in the bird's personal space. It takes a long time to learn about a bird with super intelligence such as a grey.

Just what treats are you actually trying with?

The price you paid was for an rescued adult grey. There are no set prices for rescued birds. The band can have many pieces of info but there's a good chance that the age won't be on it. The bird was sold to you and the person said that the bird was 7. It's possible that the previous owner told the breeder he was 7. There's no way that any breeder is responsible concerning the right or wrong info simply because the bird is a rescue and isn't nor ever was the breeder's bird. Think twice before you cause unnecessary trouble. Be grateful that the bird is healthy and friendly and willing to accept you as the new owner.

I commend you for your desires concerning greys but I'm afraid that you won't be able to accomplish muchUnwanted greys get into that situation because of existing with people. Unwanted greys lose the ability to survive in the wild after they've been acclimated and put into the classification of *pet* greys. Those greys stay that way forever. They bond with all things human no matter if those things are good or bad. THe outdoors has been an alien world all their lives. They've never existed with wild flocks. If set free, they wouldn't know how to deal within that atmosphere. There's a good chance that they would wind up dead because other wild greys won't accept pet greys who've been bonded to human civilization. Pet greys would,nt know how to defend themselves. They couldn't deal with terrible wearther conditions. Pet greys have never lived in the wild with wild greys. They wouldn't have the strength to live in an unforgiving world of *wild* greys who've never had any contact with the human world. Wild greys only exist because they're completely wild and stay that way. There's a huge difference between wild greys and pet greys. The only similarity they have is the color of their feathers. SO, in your desire to release unwanted greys, it simply won't workNow for the traveling from the US to Africa and back-------it's against the law to transprt greys or any other parrots from one country to another. This is a law which involves many other wild animals. It's a strict law which is enforced by federal authorities in both countries. A new law which started in 1992 forbids the importation of wild birds who have been poached for selling reasons in the US. The major offender is Africa. I see that you have good intentions but unfortunately, your plans of action won't work. On the up side of this is that they're are a few organizations that take in unwanted parrots but usually, they can't be sold to people and these organizations cost hundreds of thousands of dollars to be successful

TO THE TECH MAN Way back in 2013 I also complained about a feature that wasn't working!! BUT, I was told that it probably was only my problem. I tried again and again--different berowzers, different methods etc etc. SO I went to other boards, ALL DIFFERENT TYPES OF BOARDS and I didn't have ANY problems with them. THE PROBLEM WAS NEVER SOLVED HERE and it remains disfunctional to this very day and I gave up trying to get satisfaction. Right now, bold, underline, colorand my edit still doesn't work, not only here, but also on PM. Now I understand that many other people won't have this same problem at the same time as I do BUT I can see that people are having trouble at different times with different features. People are also periodically talking about these various problems from time to time in the chat room. Not everyone goes thru the problems at the exact time but different problems constantly pop up by this person or that person at different times etc etc. SO, my suggestion is that you check ALL the basic features above so that a complete fix can be done for EVERYONE because obviously, something's wrong when features work and then don't work for some people, then get corrected only to have that problem pop up again with other people at other times. As people here know, I quite need to use BOLD feature but I can't now and that problem has been going on for a while.. The REPLY WITH A QUOTE doesn't work now but it did 6 wks ago for 5 days and then it stopped functioning. It can't be my fault when a feature will work and then stops working, then starts working all over again.

First off, the first cage that you listed above isn't made for any type for any type of medium to large sized parrot. All greys are considered to be medium sized parrots.The second cage is for medium sized parrots, bars are spaced correctly, doors have bird proof locks, cage has the exact type of coating thats needed because parrots can chew on bars and scrape off coatings on other cages which could be toxic.Price----the price is ideal. Anyone buying a cage for a grey, amazon, a small cockatoo would more than likely spend more.Measurement of cage---the size is the proper one for medium sized parrotsTops---most decent parrot cages have various playstands that are built onto the cage. That's standard for heavy duty cages. Difference in the two cages---first one is made for tiny birds, usually holds at least 5 to 6 birds---canaries, budgies, finches.The bigger cage can hold 1 medium sized parrots or 2 smaller parrots depending on whether they get along with each other which most parrots don't.There's a place on this board called Cages and Stands and you should look at the types of cages there and you see that most resemble the style and strength of the second cage.

First off, your english is perfectly fine. Even if it wasn't, everyone would still understand you clearly. Second, your training techiques are very varied such with a clicker and without. I can tell yiou for a fact that not many people can do what you've done. Third, you seem like very young person and yet, you seem to have a great knowledge of how a parrot thinks. Most people would disagree with letting a bird free fly but in your cse I can see that your bird only has the great desire to come back you. What you're doing is very siimilar to the specialists that train predatory birds such as eagle, falcons and owls. Congratulations on a job well done.

An Italian is drinking in a New York bar when he gets a call on his cell phone. He hangs up, grinning from ear to ear, and orders a round of drinks for everybody in the bar announcing his wife had produced a typical Italian baby boy weighing 20 pounds. Nobody can believe that any new baby can weigh in at 20 pounds, but the Italian guy just shrugs, "Dat'sa about average backa home, ...like I said, atsa my boy, a typical Italian bambino." Congratulations showered him from all around, and many exclamations of "WOW"...one woman actually fainted due to sympathy pains. Two weeks later he returns to the bar. The bartender says, "Say you're the father of that typical Italian baby that weighed 20 pounds at birth. Everybody's been making bets about how big he'd be in two weeks. So how much does he weigh now?" The proud father answers, "He's a Fifteen pounds." The bartender is puzzled, concerned, and a little suspicious. "What happened? He already weighed 20 pounds the day he was born!" The Italian father takes a long swig of Sambuca, wipes his lips on his shirt sleeve, leans into the bartender and proudly says... "We had him circumcised!"