danmcq

Loved the video. Thanks for sharing it.

Not sure who the manufacturer of this bulb is, but 10 percent UVB is too high for bird applications. That is reptile level UVB. You want 5 percent UVB output. Also, this lamp mount has no reflector which just allows the light to go in all directions rather than focused downwards on the cage.

Thanks for this update. I hope he gets better. Watch for any worsening of behavior using this prescription and discontinue if need be. You may end up having to find an avian vet further away that will conduct proper testing of blood, neurological and physical. The description of him hanging from that chain toy is not normal at all and for that long could certainly point to a clot etc.

Which bulb or tube did you buy specifically. If it has uva and uvb components then your ok.

The first post you sent with the url as specifically reptile. There is a huge difference between avian versus reptile light requirements. The lamp holder appears the same, but the bulbs would be different.

This is correct. Please find an Avian specific lamp stand and bulb as the link Karen provided displays. Here is another link as well just to give you an idea. http://www.arcadia-aquatic.com/birdproduct/

That is scary any time a flight in to a window happens. Greywings gave GreYt advice. But, sense you have spoken with your vet and alfie is already starting to become more normalized it sees he is recovering from that skull meets glass shock.

At 7 months old, most greys have not been on formula since they were weaned at around 16 to 20 weeks old. Some may like a little formula still, but most will just refuse it after a while. The weight fluctuation you noted is nothing to be concerned about. It is miniscule. You grey is a small framed grey on the lower end of what various greys weigh based on body frame size. He is still very new to your home and acting nervous at times is normal. The most important thing to do with a new grey is go slow and easy to build trust and confidence with him. Anything new in his area can cause fright and nervousness as well. Even some clothes colors or a hat for example can scare them at times. Welcome by the way. I look forward to hearing more from you.

If nothing else, you will end up with some beets, turmeric and spinach to eat and some kool-aid to wash it down with. My question is, do you have a humongous tank filled with this coloring to place your tree in to let it soak in to color it?

Spout seeds from your seed mix, if you wish to sprout. Beans, as Jay said always cook properly.

I hope you are not feeling too overwhelmed by all this. I think you are doing all the right things in reaching out to get knowledgeable help from people like this forum contains, to assist you in providing the best and correct care of your much loved baby grey. Believe me, we all fret over ours constantly, just as we do over our human children. In regards veggies, the most important thing is to just provide an abundance of different types, textures and colors like raw carrots, broccoli, kale, squash, hot peppers, pumpkin etc. chopped up. The same goes with fruits as well but much lesser quantities. Since your grey is clipped, be certain that when he does make a leap as you described, that he not placed high in an area with hardwood, tile or linoleum floors. If they hit too hard, they can split their keel and it's a 911 trip to the avian vet. BTW - I love these videos... more, more , more and photos too when you get a chance.

Viruses are generally species specific, with few exceptions. Your bird cant catch a cold or flu virus from you. Your bird can catch a few parasites and bacterial infections however, and can likewise transmit these to you. You should avoid allowing your bird having contact with any mucus membranes or body fluids to avoid bacterial transfer. This is pretty easy, we are talking saliva, urine, feces etc, the same precautions you should take with other people. Even if you are sick, washing your hands with normal soap and water should be sufficient to prevent any bacterial transfer. Keep in mind that most organisms you carry are completely harmless.

Jay is right about your grey being younger than you were told based just on that one photo. A 12 week old grey is totally feathered and almost as big as they will ever be. The weight of 445, if that was taken not too long after the feeding, is no where near what your grey truly weighs which is probably under 400 grams. Take the weight every morning when the stomach is empty and after the grey has down the huge morning bomb. Do this each morning and you will have a very accurate reading of how much your grey truly weighs each day. The reason accuracy is important, is it tells you how well your grey is doing and if it is eating enough each day. We all weigh our greys after they have finished waning and watch for any variance of + or - 5 %. If a variance lasts more than a day or two you probably have a health issue. NOTE: Please understand I mean AFTER they have weaned and fledged. When they first get the urge to try out their wings, they will quit eating as much so they lighten up to gain flight the first time easier until they build up the pecks. NOTE+NOTE: Pay special attention to all Jay has said and answer any questions he or Maggie ask. They have hand fed a Gazillion baby parrots over decades.

if you wish to know.... Watch this: http://www.wimp.com/incrediblecrows/

LOL, that "Noise" is certainly not appreciated. Probably like chalk screeching on a chalkboard to Storm. That is a slight growl in response to that god awful noise....

There's no doubt Tango enjoyed that stay and out of cage time with plenty to do. It is good to hear he is settling back in. Maybe just ask "Tango want out?" and let him out when your ready to do so. He will start asking you "Tango Out" at times as well. It is iinteresting that he used it there,but not in your home so far. But, there is no rhyme or reason sometimes it seems, why our greys do what they do.

Well, watch her more closely and don't let her bite your arm. If you see her start to move for a bite and if she is on it, just roll your arm a little to make her right herself. f she is coming at tour arm, just move it. If she is beaking your arm, as some do, let her know it was too hard by just saying "Thats too hard" and if she beaks more softly afterwards tell her "Thats better". They learn through feedback whether something is acceptable or not. If she just bites down hard breaking the skin, remove her and tell her "No bite" while you sit her a little further away from your arm or other bitten area. This will take some time for you to master and apply. But most the time if your paying close attention to body language you'll know whether she is just going to beak or bite you. I still get an occasional bite, but most the time it's because I was not paying close attention.

What a beautiful view. I can see Sukei is enjoying just taking it all n. Thanks for sharing these photos.

Jay is spot on. Your grey is hungry due to not receiving enough formula at each feeding. As was mentioned by others, have seed mix (no peanuts in the shell), some pellets and veggies for him to start weaning on to. Your baby is a prey animal and the reaction to a dog is normal. As already said, keep your dog away from your grey. The dog needs to be introduced slowly over time and ony by having him on a leash and walked by at a distance to let him and the grey see eachother, but for your grey not to become fearful. I kept my dobermans locked in the bedroom or outside during the times our grey was out with us and leashed them when walking them through the room our grey was in to take them outside maintaining a 10 foot distance at the minimum to keep the threat level to your grey at a minimum during this introduction period. I must say though, that the dobermans could never be trusted at a close distance to our parrots because when a bird moves. sight oriented dogs are excited and alert sometimes taking off in pursuit. I cannot stress enough how careful you must be at all times. Some people here have dogs that are not excited by a fast miving bird and the dogs and birds interact and get a long just fine. But, that has never been the case with my dobermans and they would kill my parrots if they ever got a hold of one of them when they had the chance. The most important thing you need to be focused on right now, is giving that grey a home he will feel love and trust in. You are his guardian and flock. He must feel secure at all times. If he does not, you will have a neurotic grey living in fear which is not what you want, I am sure. Go slow, ask lots of questions and you will be successful and having a happy, loving grey and home that will learn to live together. A few good informative links to help you understand the feeding stage you are currently at: http://theparrotuniversity.com/arthandfeeding2.php http://www.babygreys.co.uk/12-weeks.htm http://www.hilltopanimalhospital.com/hand%20raising%20birds.htm

No Boss, just Ellie letting Oscar know "You touch a toe, YOU WILL DIE!!!"....... Being equal, does not mean you can not voice and let your feelings be known about things.

Well this is fine and well, but I am still waiting for my Parrots to have a "Parront" appreciation day... been years and still NADA!!!

GreYt update, thanks for sharing it. We truly are seeking and praying for the best results for Zhakuna!

Well, knowing step-up is important for certain. But, ask Dayo for a step-up, he might give a split second thought and either raised his talon slightly (thinking more about it but not committed), a high talon in the air (Like a goose step, he is fully committed) or lastly not even budge a talon and look at you as if your CraZy. Don't try for a step up in the third request/behavior. Just turn and walk away or...... YOU WILL DIE!!!!

Awwww, who couldn't fall in love with Peanut. Thanks for posting these photos. How old is he now?

LOL!!! I think some people have the same logic as greys.... if this or that takes place, you DIE!. Can someone say PhoBeak???????