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Everything posted by Dave007
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For now, don't remove anything that has to do with nesting and while she's not looking, replace the egg with an artificial egg which can be had in petstores. If you keep taking the eggs out as she lays them, she'll only replace it with another one. If there's eggs in there ( artificial) she''l pay attention to sitting on them and stop laying the eggs. With lories, keep the artifical eggs with her for about 25 to 28 days. Normally, they don't have more than 3 eggs in a clutch.
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Do what makes you feel happy. It's the only way to go.
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You're the only one that can change her status. You need to understand that she's the present #1 bird there. Therefore when any new bird comes in, it must be treated as a so called #2 or #3 or #4 bird ( whatever you have). Everything that's done with Ana needs to remain exactly like it was before. feeding first, treats first etc etc. Remember that the new bird coming in has absolutely no idea about what being a #1 bird is all about. Ana is the one that's established. The new one isn't. As far as a female getting along with another female more so than a male or a male getting along with another male, well, getting along with each other has nothing to do with being male or female. Put 2 females together and they may hate each other or adore each other. Put 1 female together with a male and they may hate each other or adore each other. They'll have their own home( cage) which will allow the individual bird's personality to develop. I don't see any problems with getting a male. BUT, there may be another problem here----you may hate all males no matter if they're human, animal, bird. They may disgust you. You may want them all off the earth. You may hate the fact that they exist. In that case, wait for the female bird.
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Janet *****I do understand that TAGs and CAGs are not supposed to breed but I just don't want any hankie-pankie between Ana Grey and a new grey.****** hankie-pankie just aint gonna happen. TAG and CAG are 2 birds that have no desire to mate. Even if a CAG and a TAG were caged together, it won't happen. If you've ever read about someone owning a TIMGO ( CAG bred with TAG ), it was done artificially and it's extremely difficult to do even by experienced breeders. So maybe give some thought to getting one of those males.
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I doubt that your bird is gonna stand on any perch after its been put in a carrier. Most birds are usually quiet after being put in a carrier after the trip begins. A few towels in the bottom and that's it. He's also not gonna eat food or drink anything. You can put a couple of treats in but don't be surprised if he doesn't eat them. Other things will have his attention. After all, he's in a strange place and he'll probably stare at things. How to put him in----if he's the type of bird that will hop on your fingers ansd allow you to put him in the carrier, fine. If not, take a towel, wrap it around him and put the bird in the carrier. Take the towel away. ***Hopefully till Friday he won't be so scared of it**** More than likely, a little bewildered and quiet. If this his first time in a carrier, it's up to you to put him in the carrier quickly and without lots of complications---in and out for future outings.
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At 3 mts old, it more than likely is a curiousity thing. Many times fecal matter is green. After it gets crusty and hard, it looks like the pellets they eat so many times they pick and chew on it. rarely do they swallow it. If it was a health problem, it could be a veggie reaction or pellet reaction. At 3 mts, I would hold off with a visit to the vet. He needs to get a bit older to see if there's a problem. Also, at 3 mts old, your bird hasn't yet eaten the various amounts of different foods you'll eventually feed. As for now, give almonds. You should have little trouble. All in all, yummy, yummy
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As long as it isn't like human baby formula unless your bird wears baby diapers.
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Sure it is, if your bird will take to it. It should be very lumpy. Judy and I are sayinhg that there's oatmeal in supermarkets such as Quaker Oats and other brands that have a bunch of individual packets in the box ( 10) . Many flavors in one box. More than likely, you won't waste any because as soon as you taste them, you'll become a fan as well as your bird. Birds do take to it very easily. As far as your pesent oatmeal, put a small amount of cinnamon powder on it. It's very tasty and a small amount won't hurt your bird. Many people use cinna mon to put on their rice pudding. As a matter of fact, you can also give 1 tablespoon of rice pudding. Many parrots like it.
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I would follow Judy's advice. There's plain, unflavored oatmeal and flavored oatmeal. They're simple to get. I'm a heavy beliver of not going crazy when giving a wild animal things it wouldn't normally eat in the wild. Greys are wild and pet greys are wild their whole lives. Domestic animals ( dogs, cats) will eat anything that's given. Wild animals( most of them) have the ability to stay away from things that aren't good for them. ****few slices of tangerine, few rings of fresh banana, a bit of a kiwi (not a bird ;-) ), few dried raisins of cranberry and blend it all together in a blender ***** All are fruits. None of these items are going to make a wild bird such as a grey more healthy unless it's the type of parrot that normally eats fruit --example, Rosellas. Greys will ( sometimes) eat fruit but it's always suggested that veggies are much more important than fruits that are acidic. In the wild, greys won't eat bananas, tangerines, kiwi, cranberry. Bananas? Once in a while. So, why should I feed them that stuff in the house? They don't benefit from it. Even soft or lumpy oatmeal doesn't give them anything special but they're more likely to take it once in a while and they'll look at it as a treat.
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Office building, bars, restaurants, airports, even some hospitals. I have 2 kits. Been using them for almost a year. Birds, other animals, the wife or husband or kids arent affected at all.
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Elizabethan collars are usually gotten from a vet. He's the one that can design it for the particular animal. On birds, they usually don't work. It can inhibit eating and natural movement. Many will develop an aggressive attitude afyterward. Plucking many lessen but only because the bird is being blocked off from the feathers. The bird is usually uncomfortable and any nervousness that the bird has will increase when the collar is removed. Any plucking issues need time to deal with so that the problem will lessen and it does take a while. If your bird just plucked because you went away, that type of action is called acute plucking and will lessen on it's own. A bird that plucks all the time no matter what's going on is called a chronic plucker and they won't ever stop. That's the most common type of situation where a collar is used and it has to do with skin destruction. It's done many timers with cockatoos. Collars usually * treat the symptom, not the cause*.
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There's usually no after effect. Birds can immediately fly ( if they have wings) Some birds don't even need anesthesia. It's an extremely quick procedure. Many birds don't even know it's being done. The chips are different sizes depending on the country. Other countries use larger ones. The size used here is about 1/2 to 1 grain of rice. There's different chips and there is no universal reader. Many other situations can happen with them. They're simply used for IDs. Here in the US, only avian vets do that procedure and most people use avian vets for all their bird's needs
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no, it's not mine. There's a few large avairies around the US that were built for birds that could no longer be petsfor many reasons. Also, there's retired breeders, some others that have minor handicaps,some that have permanent injuries, some that are pluckers but perfectly healthy. There's no dominance there as far as baldness. They just happened to be perching in different areas. Most aren't human friendly. The place is built to imitate where they come from. There's other avaires that are around that house other species. The aviaries aren't rare here in the US. There's many others that are much larger this one. They only have about 150/ 200 greys there. It's their last home and most are very happy and yes, if your bird is around, it will hear the natural sounds of the other greys and join in with the others. Rarely will they make imitation human sounds when they're with their own kind.
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Parrot mixes aren't affected by peanuts in them. All mixes have some peanuts in them even tho they're sometimes hard to see. What you SHOULD get rid of is all the unshelled peanuts in the bag. They're raw and the shells can carry bacteria and fungi on them. The best unshelled peanuts to give a bird ( if you want to) is human grade roasted unshelled peanuts that are in supermarkets. They're not raw and don't carry bacteria and fungi. They're consumed by people. Don't know why you're sad. Even well taken care of birds can die from other causes or birds not well taken care can live extremely long lives. The average documented age for greys is 40/45 yrs. The reason for that high number is because they don't live outdoors in the wild. In the wild, the average age is about 30 yrs. Ages of captive birds and wild birds is always different. ***25? 30? *** I think you're going to a low number. Most last much longer than those numbers you're thinking about
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National Geographic Birder's Journal Over 800 species Over 2000 pictures and descriptions and origins Common and scientific names for each bird entry Available in hard or soft cover
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Yes I have. Very good machine with lots of exhaust power. . There's another company that makes basically the same thing. They're the only one advertised in bird related magazines and other bird literature. Pretty expensive though here in the US. If you have the money, go for it. You can forget the other item you were talking about.
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Very good. Just remember that those purifiers are usually bought by people for different areas in a house. Good luck with the vacuuming. I know you're looking forward to doing it again.
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It's safe for your grey but all the nice features in the machine don't apply to the type of dust thrown off by greys. The machine is used in areas for a different type of dust that constantly remains in the air. That dust is microspcoic. Parrot dust is very heavy and that type of machine doesn't have the power to pull in heavy parrot dust because parrot dust doesn't stay afloat. Only the dust that floats in the air constantly will be taken in by the machine and that dust will have to be pretty close to the machine to be pulled in. Those machines have a suction power of about 3 to 5 ft. This applies to all the similar air purifiers that are sold. They all work on the same principle. Parrot dust is continuely thrown off by a bird. Basically, that machine is for rooms that have non visible dust in the air. Regular vacuum cleaning needs to be used in order to suck in the heavy parrot dust from tops of cages, on other furniture and floors. They're good to have as long as you don't expect to vacuum out a room with them.
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Why doesn't my Congo African Grey talk when I'm in the room?
Dave007 replied to Madness's topic in The GREY Lounge
****Why doesn't my Congo African Grey talk when I'm in the room*** That's a very common thing that greys do. Some will talk around people if the people are far enough away. They're much more interested in being quiet and looking at people when they're around. Many people who wanna record their birds talking will put a recorder nearby and go some place where they won't be seen. -
""I am noticing him biting someo f hsi feathers still, but its not as bad as he was doing the past few nights. If he doesn't stop in the next few days after all this I am going to take him to the vet. """" Don't expect instant fast results from what you're now doing. Anything that has to do with minor feather problems takes a while to correct itself. You'll see periodic chewing and you'll also see that the feathers that are chewed will remain until your bird loses them naturally. In your picture that would be considered a very minor problem. I personally think you can hold off on going to the vet for a while. Loads of birds are in the same situation that you are. Some of those birds look a lot worse. Just give it time.
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Very cute picture Just remember that it's best to take the pit out of the cherry before giving the cherry. The pits are very toxic to parrots and eventually, the parrot will bite into it accidentily or on purpose
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Im new again! need a little reassurance
Dave007 replied to rickster's topic in Welcome & Introduction Room
TAGs can talk pretty much like CAGs. Their vocabulary may be a little less than a CAG but yes, they can talk. On the other hand the bird may not talk and that applies to CAGS too. It's an individual thing. A person needs to go through the same routine concerning talking the same way they would do it for CAGs. That's the only way you'll find out if he talks. Pet parrots who don't talk in the human language will talk to their owners very often throughout the day but they do it in their language and a person needs to take time to figure out what they're talking about. All of this also applies to CAGs. """and do they actually use it.""" I don't understand what you're referring to. Yes, they can take to different members in a house more quickly than a CAG if the people in the house socailize with the bird. Like a CAG, their voice ice very clear. """do they bond the same way .. regurgitate etc..with one person?**** Yes, they will bond to people but it's more important that the bird be a family member. """regurgitate"""" Like all birds, that happens but this area of what you wanna know has nothing to do with anything. That's a natural occurence because the animal is a live creature I must say that in my opinion, you're putting too much emphasis on talking and if you're heavily focused on that end of it, you may be dissapointed and so will the bird. -
70 isn't too cold. Many people go even lower. During the day, people set the room up for 71 and let it cool down to approx 68. Cold sporadic drafts from the outside is what you need to worry about. They can handle colder weather. It's the high temp in a dry room that produces problems. You can use the cover and he definitely will adjust to the point that he'll eventually expect it at night or you may not wanna use it at all. It's up to you. How he reacts when you take the cover off doesn't sound like a serious problem. Many people have a reverse problem---putting the cover on causes the bird to squawk and carry on and when it's taken off, the bird doesn't say anything.
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It's good that you added the picture. Some young birds do that on their backs and basically, they're chewing them, not plucking them. Those feathers will fall out and right now, it best to keep that area moisturized with water spray or sprayed with aloe vera juice which can be purchased at Walmart. More than likely, you're also sinking his beak down below the feathers and picking at an unseen area. That's a sign of itchy, dry skin and feathers that are near those areas will also get chewed on. So, try out the moisture. ***My house is usually somewhere between 73-76 degrees and is pretty dry.**** I also live in a very dry, very cold winter climate and I find that the air in the bird room needs a small humidifier on all the time. Dry surrounding air mean dry skin and a high dry temperature can add to that. ---Try 70 to 72 degrees. 76 is kinda high when it's mixed with very dry air. ***I started covering his cage for the first time in the last few weeks. He attacks the blanket when I pull it off every morning. Could this change be upsetting him and this is a way to act out?*** He may not like the cover or doesn't like the movement of the cover when you take it off. He may not be used to having that cover on and it may take quite a while to get used to it