Dave007

Actually, I don't find it appealing if one of them decides to take a dump on my gravy covered mashed potatos. Kinda hard to remove. The texture of the gravy changes a bit.

If I had this problem, I'd simply put them in the cage when we're eating. Actually, I don't have this problem but I still put them in their cages while eating.

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This is for people who have adolscent greys who sho a particular habit concernibg shoulders. As far as the grey goes, it's not a bad habit, it's a grey habit that some greys have and others don't. For those greys that do, no matter how sweet, kind, loveable, cute and adorable your grey is right now, if he gets the idea that he can go on your shoulder, I guarantee you that in the future, he will give you an absolutely free-of-charge lobe piercing for your next set of new earrings that you buy. If you wear a chain on your neck, they're able to snap and break it without even trying hard. They love shiny jewelry. This goes for your husband too because as far as ear lobes go, there is no sexual preference. They love skin ( neck, face, cheeks, ears and clothing). Another reason for not doing the shoulder thing is that if you use some sort of hair grooming item in your hair, they will get to it because they love to preen hair. If they do get to that cosmetic, they will swallow it and that's a no no. Another thing about the shoulder is that when it comes time that you don't want him there, they will give you a struggle when you try to catch him. They'll race over to the other shoulder and they might bite if you persist. They like heights. The way to prevent this is by completely stopping the bird from going up there. Not just part time, full time. When they're up on the shoulder and eventually see that you're annoyed and decide to take him off, they'll develop a habit of going from one shoulder to the other and they'll do it across the back of the shoulders. They can get away with this because they can see you but you can't see them.Many people start having a problem with birds being on the shoulder but it's only part time. Then it becomes full time and because people haven't done anything about it in the past it's more difficult now that the bird is more agile and very quick. Eventually, there's gonna be serious measures to get the bird off and that's when the biting of the hand an arm and fingers start. The bird is obstinent, doesn't wanna come off and will avoid being taken off. It's simply a trait of the grey that's finally coming out. It's a trait that wasn't there when the bird was very young and cuddly. Some people have absolutely no trouble with birds on the shoulders( that's their personality) but others have different personalities and it's extremely hard to train a bird to not like very attractive alluring things. A person who is new to owning a grey has no chance of teaching a grey to not do that.

Not until your bird is 10 wks or older. Usually, many of the things that are first done such as bathing usually occur with birds that are weaned. Birds have strong outer feathers that are developed after they're weaned. A 6 week old chick has none so it can't shake off water and at that age, they don't have the ability to dry themselves and to preen themselves.

**like for example, if they go too near the ground, they will get caught easiy, thus they learnt to stay higher up on the tree. or they learn that if they go to climb too high, they will get biten by the flock leader who is trying to maintain the leadership** Who told you such a thing or where did you see it? I know of no parrot that gets a particular bird upset by going too high. The higher up they, the safer they are. When a higher place is located, that particular bird who is referred to as a flock leader will be up there just as high. Parrots who go up are doing a natural thing. There's no controling height. As far as the status of so called flock leaders, the rest of the flock will be just as happy when any of the other birds spots any intruder that's coming nearby. It's not any particular bird that gives off warnings because prey animals don't have flock leaders. It's survival of the fittest that determines whether they live or die. All parrots can be easily distracted from a particular thing they're idoing in a house and people think they're punishing a bird in a house. The only so called punishment simply has to do with distraction and that isn't punishment of any type. Putting a parrot back in it's cage isn't punishment. It's simply distraction. In the wild they fly down to the ground for one simple reason--to eat whatever attracts them which is nothing that we feed them. The reason for doing this is because parrots are scavengers. As with loads of other animals in the wild, they always have one eye on possible dangers if they're prey animals. This includes wild 4 legged creatures too. Parrots of all types are wild animals, including the one you have in the house. It will remain wild even though it was bred and had chicks by Joe who lives down the block. People who bring parrots into the house are the ones that are creating an different atmosphere and in many cases it hampers a bird from doing what comes naturally and that's when a person intervenes. Open a window and watch the bird take off. You think that bird will be grateful that it lives in a protected enviornment? It's gonna take off and most times, trying to get the bird back is next to impossible because that overwhelming desire to connect with nature kicks in. People apply human ideas for their parrots and when the parrot won't follow through people think the bird is being obstinate. Those human ideas don't apply to animals who live in the wild. In the wild, parrots and other animals survive because nature has created that atmosphere. ***again, i am just thinking and trying to link up. just watch the documntary on wild parrot. their life is actually quiet tough and face alot of negative stuff(punishment) from their wrong doing** That's in the eyes of the beholder. In the wild there is no wrong doing. All wild animals go through rough stuff in the wild and only when danger is present do they react. Nature dictates that reaction. That also applies to predatory birds. Many people think that what they do is cruel but it's only nature that guides them concerning what they do. What goes on in a house between a person and their parrot is totally different then the outside. Any pre owned bird that comes to a new house with a certain set of habits be they good or bad was developed by previous owners. They interfered with nature. Any bird in the house who is maturing has a natural personality developing and that applies to all species and their particular personality. Examples--A person can't stop an older grey from being aloof and less cuddly and developing intense chewing habits as they get older. A person can't stop a growing cockatoo from being a cuddley bird. A person can't stop a conure from yelling. Much has been said about certain species of parrots living a certain length of time--BUT, that length of time is created by people. In the wild, parrots and other animals live a shorter amount of time because they deal with nature and that includes greys. It might be better a good idea to get a large book concerning the psychology and habits of wild animals and how nature works.

Well, you said that ***She said to call her on Monday if anything wouldn't be ok. I'll be calling for sure.**** Tommorow is monday and many of the things you're referring to need a vet's opinion. He/she will give a much better explanation and do testing that hasn't been done before. For now until tommorrow, don't let him fly around and don't do things around him that might cause nervousness. You're talking about too many symptoms or actions here but we have no idea what they apply to. On the one hand you're saying that some things are pretty normal or at least not very bad. On the other hand you're saying that he only gets affectionate when he's having problems. We can't really tell you what's going on because you're naming off things that may be related or not related. About the only thing we mention is the cough. The bird needs treatment for it. The other things may be related or maybe not. It would be a good idea to take a piece of paper and write down everything that's going on just the way you did here. This is a situation where guessing isn't good by any of us but what's on your side is that the vet visit is very soon.

I agree with Judy. You'll need to visit the vet as soon as possible as it may be serious. Greys do cough but only when they've heard a person doing it over a long period of time. They're imitating the person who's doing the coughing. If you don't get an Email back, call the vet. Get him checked out quickly. We here can't tell you what it is because we're not vets.

What you're seeing isn't dust of any kind. it's a buildup of hundreds of scratches that have scraped away the black shiny beak over a long period of time. It happens as greys get older and start exploring and rubbing their beaks on all types of surfaces. The shiny black beak usually starts disappearing at approx 1 to 2 yrs old and continues to collect more scratches. The shiny black beak is then gone for good. When fluid such as water is on the beak, it blackens and shines a bit but immediately goes away when it's dry. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v50/DaveVP/P1010007a.jpg

Being hormonal can't be changed by talking. Mental connections can't be made concerning how a person feels ( sad or bad). When a bird gets hormonal, it's nature kicking in and the bird will stay that way until it's over which is different for many birds. A male who's hormonal won't be as aggressive as a female. How do you deal with a hormonal bird who's showing acute signs of temporary hormonal changes? Leave the bird alone or else he and especially she will get aggressive and may bite because of too much interfering with nature's natural process. And these hormonal changes don't kick in until the bird is 3 yrs and older. Parrots are wild animals and they do things according to what nature tells them to do. The grey in your house is a wild animal and will always be a wild animal.

I'll say it again----even though there's other products at that site, that particular item on that page is the proper one to get concerning your problem. You said spray. I recommended that a person should get the powdered form. The 3 items in that one picture are all the same product. One is a jar of the powder and it's 8 oz---a person mixes it when it needs to be used One is a jar of the powder and it's 16 oz---a person mixes it when it needs to be used The last one is a spray which is already mixed which I don't recommend because after using the contents of the spray bottle, if a person needs more they would have to reorder it. The 2 different sized powder sizes will last approx 8 mts to 1 1/2 yrs and with certain amounts of usage by people, it may last a much longer time than that. If the other products in the catalog were good for your particular problem, I would have already said so.

----------------------------------- Personally, I recommended that particular product specifically because it's for birds that pluck their body feathers, not chew or snap or crack the outer waterproof feathers. The most serious plucking is always on the body (breast, neck, legs, near vent areas, the feathers that are under the wings by the body, soft feathers under the upper back feathers) All of these feathers aren't waterproof and those are the feathers that are easiest to treat. Nothing penetrates waterproof feathers so either the bird is a chronic chewer that likes to chew, pull, snap wing and tail feathers and will never stop OR the bird is an acute plucker who does the same thing but will eventually stop that habit. The item I recommend is much stronger that any aloe juice. Aloe juice is good up to a point. Afterward a more specific product is needed to treat that problem. I'm not saying it's the only good product out there, I'm just saying that I and others have had great success with it.

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The New Post button is when you (or anyone else) has a new topic to talk about Go to any section ( room), press new post button, type in your subject ( example--Hormonal changes), type your material in and post it. In your subject here, you can go to the grey lounge, the health room etc or other areas. That's where most people are most of the time. You can get more responses from the people who've been around for a while as well as new people. Every room has a new post (new thread) button.

It would be a better thing to do if all threads and replies that don't have anything to do with welcomes and intros be placed in the various rooms that are available. More people will see those threads and replies and more responses will be given. The GREY LOUNGE is a good place to start.

Right foot? back toe?? That's a deformity. Have the vet check it but also send a pic to the breeder.

For new members here- It would be a better thing to do if all threads and replies that don't have anything to do with welcomes and intros be placed in the various rooms that are available. More people will see those threads and replies and more responses will be given. The GREY LOUNGE is a good place to start.

THANK YOU - WILL DO. LOVING THIS FORUM! ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 1------Yes people do work all day and try to spend lots of time with the bird when they get home. Greys need attention. A baby bird can get used to the amount of attention given--an adult grey who's been pre owned and has habits that have been devoloped can't change their habits, likes, dislikes etc. *****THIS IS PROBABLY MY HESITATION POINT: IF I LET THE BIRD DEFECATE IN ITS CAGE WON'T I STILL NEED TO POTTY TRAIN IT TO GO IN A SPECIFIC PART OF THE CAGE? DO YOU THINK THAT IT WOULD BE EASIER FOR ME TO GO FOR AN OLDER BIRD THAT HAS BEEN POTTY TRAINED (PERHAPS AT MY REQUEST BY THE BREEDER (I WILL ONLY BUY FROM A CARING BREEDER)?**** I'm gonna be blunt here--no insult meant but in your situation getting a pre owned bird is a bad idea because you have no idea what you're bringing home. A pre owned bird comes with baggage that can't be gotten rid of. That baggage is simply passed on to you. It can't be changed. Greys as well as all other parrots are wild animals and will remain so until the day they die be they pets or live in the wild. The person may be a caring breeder but that breeder doesn't sell customized birds. AND breeders usually don't sell adult birds. The potty training in a cage---a bird defecates when it wants to, where it wants to. Potty training only has to do with the bird who's outside of the cage all the time and has been trained to come back to a certain area to defecate. Unlike a dog, the bird won't hold it if he can't get back. A certain area of a cage can't be singled out because the whole cage belongs to the bird and when in the cage as well as out of the cage, nature is at work. Domestic animals can be trained to go out.As a matter of fact, domestic animals actually find it hard to defecate/urinate in a house after being totally house broken. ****SEEMS TO ME THAT IT'S CRUEL TO CLIP THEN - WHAT DO YOU THINK?***** Cruel?? Well, it could affect a bird mentally. It could interfere with confidence in him/herself. It may create an introverted bird but on the other hand maybe not. You should also understand that one of the cruelest things a person can do is get the bird clipped before coordination, muscle and wing strength is developed. That usually takes up to 7 or 8 mts of the bird's begginning life. Many people here bought birds that were already clipped when they're just being sold and the birds have big problems. I can't tell you how many people here are seriously pissed off that their bird was clipped. Most of these people are just waiting for the feathers to grow in but they do remain angry. It was just unforseen ignorance about clipping that existed at the time of sale. *****WOULD IT BE ENOUGH TO GIVE SUCH CONTACT SAY EVERY EVENING AFTER WORK?**** I answered that in the begiining of this reply. *****Both myself and my husband work from home but we also go into the office a few days a week. Our housekeeper is around mostly - unless she is out shopping for food etc**. That's very much in your favor since you say it's only for a few days a week. Your housekeeper being around is also very much in your favor.

1---greys can be ok with 2 to 3 hrs out of the cage. Of course, the more, the better but many people here go to work full time and the bird is left in a cage during the whole day. 2---Many people put the radio or Tv on when the bird is alone but if it's done as a regular routine everyday, the grey will slowly dismiss it and not pay as much attention to it but using a TV with cartoons is a good idea. 3---No, baby parrots can only be potty trained in the home as the bird gets older and it does take quite a bit of work to do that especially if the owner is a novice at owning a grey. Even potty trained birds will defecate in other places. You would need good mobility to catch the bird doing that and putting him in an area where you want him to go. In your situation, letting the bird go in the cage is the best thing. Easy to clean up that way. 4---That's a hard question to answer for a few reasons. Many people think it's a bit cruel to clip a bird's wings because they were meant to fly. Other people clip wings but I have to tell you that a proper wing clip won't prevent the bird from flying. A wing clipping won't allow a bird to fly vertically, only horozontly AND the wing clipping needs to be properly done to lessen injuries. If a clipped bird escapes, it can fly straight ahead, not upward and that alone can cause the bird injuries. 5---As often as you can. As time goes on, a grey becomes very sedate and likes to perch alot--even on people ( you/hubby). It's not a constant flyer as when it was when young. That happens aroung 4 to 5 yrs old. Constant verbal contact is necessary as well as physical contact. 6---That can happen when all the people living there get involved with the bird and all the duties involved which includes cleaning, feeding, treat giving, handling. The bird may take to one person a little more than the other person but in general, if socialization begins at an early age, the chances of success are better. 7---Yes you can but but because the bird is an individual, it may not like that. Having someone come toi the houseto feed and water is always a better idea. As far as likes and dislikes, greys aren't very fond of childrren who are scooting around them. Greys can become nervous. If you have other animals roaming the house, you need to watch out for problems Hope this helps a bit. PS-------There are other handicapped people on this board who have greys and have had success but it's important to keep in contact with experienced grey owners like who's on this bioard to help you deal with unknown situations and believe me, there's gonna be situations.

Yeah, make sure you take pics. That bird is no more than 6/7 weeks old. 6 weeks old http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v50/DaveVP/6--6weeks---2006.jpg 8 weeks old http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v50/DaveVP/8--8weeks---2006.jpg

The first things that may happen are possibly jealousy, confusion, lots of interest, some growling or other sounds or none at all, talking much less or overtalking, nervousness or lack of. The birds should be separated in individual cages and the cages shouldn't close to each other. Any habits or things you do with the first bird should be continued just like that. Don't waver. That's feeding, talking , playing handling of the established bird etc. The first bird is the #1 bird and should remain that way. The new bird doesn't know what it's like being a #1 bird in a new home. As time goes on, the cages can be a bit closer as you see the initial shock of introduction lessens and lessens. You'll see that happen as the two birds don't pay constant attention to each other. Find out if the new bird likes a play stand. If so, use it for each bird but that should be done one bird at a time. Time limits are no good when putting 2 adult birds together especially when one is so much older. Eventually, you'll be experimenting with both out at the same time but you need to be watching in case of aggression. Put both birds out for short periods of time and slowly increase that time if you see that the birds are tolerating each other Do lots of talking to the new bird but first do it with the #1 bird . All of this is basic introduction and you'll need to take it slow. Many times it does take a while. Make sure the #1 bird doesn't feel displaced.

A mother is cleaning her teenage son's room when she sees some magazines under his bed. Curious, she grabs the magazines and is shocked to find that they are S&M porn magazines. In her horror, she screams. The father runs in, sees his wife crying, sits down beside her on his son's bed, and asks, "What's wrong?" And, pointing at the magazines in her hand, he asks, "What are those?" The mother passes him the magazines. He flips through them, and his eyes widen as he sees some of the most explicit and disturbing S&M images his mind could have ever imagined. The mother, between sobs, asks her husband, "What are we gonna do with this boy?" Her husband replies, "Well, we're not gonna spank him. That's for sure."

Yeh, put her on a perch, let her shiver and she'll soon start ptreening herself for quite a while. At the most, bathe her once a week if you feel that all of her underneath feathers have been soaked. There's methods in the bathing posts on how to bathe a bird in order to make sure the proper method is used.

Different pastas are fine for greys. Most do like the that food. Many like it with tomato sauce or plain. Avoid putting butter on the pastas. Don't give it everyday because your bird will come to expect it all the time and ignore other foods. The best type to get is some that be held with the claws while being eaten.

Since your bird comes from the UK, that country is the only place that the code can be read. If the ring has a slit on it (From top to bottom), that's called an open band which is clamped together after putting it on the leg and can be put on a bird at any age. If the band has no slit, that means that the bird had the band placed on the leg before he was approx 2 weeks old. That's the only time the toes can be bent backwards in order for the ring to be slipped on. Once it's on, it can't be taken off except by a vet.