Dave007

Nothing unusual about hating different colors. It's very common. Also, many hate certain items such as cardboard boxes. Some hate brooms. Some hate a new hair style the owner might have. Some hate sunglasses. Some dislike certain colors of their pellets. Some hate vacuums and/or their sound. All in all, they're very hateful birds.:angry:

I strongly feel that this very necessary to address. Actually, I'm surprised that others haven't spoken of it yet. Lets put aside all of the talk concerning toxic foods and building up resistance to these toxic foods. Birds don't build up resistance to toxic foods in the wild. They simply avoid them. You're talking about something far more serious than external toxic foods. The most bacteria ladened area of a human being's body is the mouth and whether you're showering or not, there's always saliva in the mouth. A person can't get sick from a parrot but a parrot can get extremely sick from what is in or comes out of a person's mouth. There doesn't have to be scientific study conducted in order to prove that. Just ask avian vets about the number of birds that come in and are ill from something we gave them. I have no idea what gave you the idea that letting your bird drink water from your mouth was healthy. I believe you're being very irresponsible for the health of your bird. Just call or visit an Avian Vet and tell him/her you're doing that and see the response you get. The only absolute fact here is that so far your bird has been very lucky at dodging that bullet. PS--if this post is coming across as too harsh and blunt, well that was exactly what my intention was meant to be. Post edited by: MrSpock, at: 2007/11/07 20:48<br><br>Post edited by: MrSpock, at: 2007/11/07 23:18

It's nothing to worry about. They all do that, even other species. Nature is telling them to do that in order to find different foods that've fallen to the ground from trees. Don't worry, they will continue doing that. Notice that when he's doing that he's absolutely oblivious to you watching him/her? Greys are scavengers and will group together and eat anything that's available on the ground when in the wild. PS--when you see this happening, don't interfere. The bird will eventually stop and go back to whatever he/she wants. Scavenging in the wild Post edited by: MrSpock, at: 2007/11/05 22:13<br><br>Post edited by: MrSpock, at: 2007/11/05 22:23

They're nervous, jumpy, anxious, the male jumping in front of the female. He's fluffing to make himself look bigger. He's ready to bite if I disturb them too much. She is on eggs and comes up to see what the problem is. The way they act when getting food or water is always the same even if they're both hungry. They've been like that for years and that applies to my others. I bought this pair when they were 5 and 7 yrs old.

Well, if you do allow them to mate, it's 85% against you that they'll continue any bond with you. They'll be only interested in themselves and will develop minimum tolerance of you. Again, there are exceptions to the rule but that's all they are, exceptions. There's a world of difference between Breeder greys and Pet greys. The best breeder greys are the ones that've had no human influence in their lives. Most breeder greys have never been pets. They also have no tolerance for pet birds and will go out of their way to harm them ( if there were both types in a home). I have 3 breeder pairs and they aren't friendly and they won't let people near them other than my wife and I and that's minimal and I'm very happy about that. That's why they've always been successful. Breeder greys are usually kept separated from the general population of pet greys. Read up on this subject before you make some very, very serious mistakes. A picture of one of my breeder pairs just about to be fed. They're not very receptive to my interference and have never been and that's the way they are with both my wife and I. This pair is 15 and 17 yrs of age. Post edited by: MrSpock, at: 2007/11/05 20:24<br><br>Post edited by: MrSpock, at: 2007/11/05 20:33

I have a different feeling about doing that. Bonding and becoming friends are two different things. Many people hope that their 2 or more parrots will become friends. If everything stays the same, that friendship will continue. Right now, they're socializing and just being birds and they're happy and content. Lunging, nipping is very natural and common with parrots. As they get older and become sexually mature, that friendship might escalate into the next step up which is bonding especially if it's a male and female. If that happens, many times a personality change will occur towards their owner. Pet greys are quite happy when they have their own home which is their cage. Their eating times are different,their playing with their toys are different and more importantly,their toys are different, their resting times are different,their desire to be left alone are different. Many of these things are successfully accomplished if a grey has it's own home to retreat to. Many greys don't like to share with other birds. Greys are also very possessive of their own things. A person is taking a chance when doing that because it might be 2 aggressive birds, 2 defencive, or 1 of each. What they do outside of a cage doesn't mean that they'll do the same thing in a common cage. A grey's permanent personality can't be judged until the bird is well into adulthood. Example---a large indoor or outdoor aviary. Most of the birds are in their own chosen area. They have the choice of being by themselves whenever they please and in aviaries, that's the norm. I really don't know why people find it so appealing to put a certain species of parrot together when that species is known for it's extreme desire to be independant. Of course there are exceptions but deciding on doing a thing according to exceptions is not a good way to go when the odds of success are very low.<br><br>Post edited by: MrSpock, at: 2007/11/05 19:38

Greys respond to different colors. Depends upon the bird. There's nothing scientific about it. In a bowl full of colored pellets the bird might eat the blue ones first and discard the red ones or just eat the red ones last. Same thing applies to toys (colored wood blocks). Might intensely chew a yellow one and leave the green one alone.

Personality change is a myth. In a household, birds shouldn't be allowed to have a *favored* person A new bird coming into a house should be socialized with the whole family. Everyone should partake in it's care, cleaning, treat giving, handling etc. It's the MOST IMPORTANT step that should be taken IMMEDIATELY. As the grey gets older, he will favor certain things with one person and other things with other people. Example----a grey might like a certain person to scratch their head but not be touched anywhere else. The same bird might favor another thing with another person. Most of the time, it's the person's fault that the bird has decided on a favorite. That happens when there's the slightest hint from the bird that it's acting one way with one person but not the same way with another. People immediately see that and put the label *favoritism* on what's happening. From that point on, it escalates to *one person bird*. Then, the person who feels not as close to the bird or even worse, *rejected* by the bird starts to avoid the bird guaranteeing that the bird will choose one over another. As any parrot gets older and matures it shows a liking for one person over another but only in certain things and that changes constantly. The only thing that guaranteed with an older adopted bird is that the bird's permanent unknown personality travels with it to the new home and the new owner has to accept that. So an inexperienced bird person should stay away from older birds that're up for adoption. Most of the time that older bird winds up going back to the shelter.<br><br>Post edited by: MrSpock, at: 2007/11/02 05:48

Judy Well, you made it. Your dreams have come true. It's been an uphill trip but you proved that you could climb any mountains and conquer any obstacles that stood in your way. You never gave up. You've reached the pinnacle of success. And now, as you look across the mountain tops and you can see your next goal--conquering the heavens above. Congratulations--Dave

dblhelix is right on the mark. Stopping what comes naturally at too early an age doesn't do the bird any good, just the owner. Plus, no biord should bre clipped until they've learned flight coordination and have very powerful muscle strength which usually doesn't happen until they're at least 6 to 7 mts old. Having no coordination just allows the bird to fly into anything. Breeders shouldn't sell clipped babies. A novice owner buys the clipped bird, sees the bird flying around erractically and the first thing that pops into a person's mind is *gee, he's not clipped enough*.<br><br>Post edited by: MrSpock, at: 2007/10/31 04:43

If your grey is an adult and your husband is also petting her in the wrong places like under the wings, lower breast, around vent area, she's getting sexually stimulated. If that's what's going on, it's best to not touch those areas. Lack of sexual satisfaction might make her bite.

The 2 major things you have watch out for are 1--actual temperature of his area. It should't exceed 72/74 degrees. 2--Humidity-- a room that's very dry causes dry, scaly skin and creates itching. If your heater creates excessive dryness in his area, you might have to move him.

""""""will he stop doing this """""" All parrots,no matter what species, bite. It's their nature and it's natural. Not all of the time though. Keep your kids away from the bird until it's settled into the house which might take a couple of weeks. Some greys are nervous around kids. Let the kids talk to him but not touch him. """""will he keep doin it """"""""' Any well adjusted parrot doesn't bite for no reason, but there are times that they wanna be left alone just like us people. If my wife wants me to rake the leaves, I let her know she's bothering me. My annoyed look on my face is my *body language*. The only difference is that I don't bite her.

One item you might consider is THE AFRICAN GREY PARROT HANDBOOK AUTHORS---MATTIE SUE ATHAN DIANALEE DETER It's a very practical comprensive book covering many aspects of grey ownership. You might have to purse this book at Borders or Barnes and Noble because many pet shops won't carry it because it slows the sales of many other lousy books that they sell. Other large book stores have it and if they don't have it, they will gladly order it for you. Price is approx-------$10 to $12 depending upon where you get it.

What he's doing when fluffing up is that he's giving a warning sign that he will bite. It's called 'body language. Since you've had your grey for just 2 days, you might wanna consider setting yourself and your bird up. This info might help you------- 1------It is important to be patient, gentle and considerate of your new parrot. He doesn't know you. He is in a strange place with strangers. He will undergo a brief grieving period. He has lost all that was familiar and loved - the other babies he played with and his beloved and trusted caregiver. 2-------He may be cautious. He may be watchful. He will want to learn the lay of the land. He will need to adjust to other birds (if any) and other companion animals you may have. Because of careful early management by your thoughtfully chosen breeder, he will be inclined toward acceptance, but don't assume it. A bird is not a domesticated companion animal and his trust and love must be earned by all who wish to have a satisfactory relationship with him. 3-------The adjustment period should last about three weeks. Be patient. Don't rush him. He doesn't know how loved he is and how anxiously awaited he was. Hold down the excitement. Be calm. Allow him time. Let him explore the cage and become familiar with it. The toys will be new and exciting and he will want to check them out. When you bring your parrot home, although the temptation is great, it's not a good idea to be handling him for a day or two until he/she feels good about that new cage and it's contents. Lots of gentle talking though. Everything else ahead of the bird is also going to be new and learning about them in a relaxed state is best accomplished from the security of it's own cage and no time limits should be placed on any parrot when anything should be accomplished. All parrots are different from each other.<br><br>Post edited by: MrSpock, at: 2007/10/31 01:55

More than likely, she won't like anything you give her right away. First, they have to check it out from every angle. They eventually touch it to see if it's hard or soft. Next, they lightly touch it to see if it bites or gets angry. Eventually, they'll take to the toys BUT not every toy which is normal. Even if she doesn't take to a particular toy, leave it in the cage. It becomes part of their *wallpaper* in the cage. With greys, especially CAGs, all of this getting used to things might take a few weeks, sometimes longer.<br><br>Post edited by: MrSpock, at: 2007/10/31 01:34

LovemyGreys My opinion is that many birds have a very serious first molt. Some don't. Many times, it has to do with how high wired the bird is as far as personality. The first major molt combined with a nervous, possibly itchy skin may cause what's in the photo. The important thing is that the white down feathers are coming in It's not unusual for that to happen in young birds, especially Greys and Cockatoos. It may happen with the first major molt but not with molts that will occur in the future. But, this is just my opinion and I'm not discounting any visit to a Vet if necessary. It'll take quite a while for his feathers to grow back in . I would suggest that the owner get some ALOE GEL and rub a little on those bare areas.I'll try to show an example although it goes back a few years This is Jazz when he was 1 yr old and had his first molt. He was and is high wired. This is what he looked like 2 mts after his first molt. He's now 7 yrs old and has never had a mutilating type molt again. . Also, he pulled out all the flight feathers on his left side. This is what he looks like now including his left wing. <br><br>Post edited by: MrSpock, at: 2007/10/30 23:51

Flint Concerning your practicing........ In PHOTOBUCKET, in the area where you saw the word BROWSE, right above it you'll see the word OPTIONS Click on it and you 'll see Image Options Basic dimensions Upgrade to pro dimensions Avatar ( 100 x 75 ) 19" screen ( 1280 x 960 ) Thumbnail ( 160 x 120 ) 21" screen ( 1600 x 1200 ) Website, email ( 320 x 240 ) 22" screen ( 2048 x 1536 ) Message board ( 640 x 480 ) 23" screen ( 2240 x 1680 ) 15" screen ( 800 x 600 ) 2 megabyte file size 17" screen ( 1024 x 768 ) 1 megabyte file size Pick out the size you like and that's what will be saved in your storage area

It best to have an ONLINE STORAGE AREA. A very popular one is called PHOTOBUCKET. This is how it works....You take a picture from your digital camera and put it into your private photo file located on your PC. Not all pictures have to come from a digital camera. Any other pictures you have saved in any of your photo files can be put into PHOTOBUCKET Type in PHOTOBUCKET and join. It's free and will always be free. After you join,when ever you go there you'll see words saying BROWSE. Click on any BROWSE section. Instantly, all of your files will appear. You simply open up any of your picture files and when you double click on it, and the link immediately copies to PHOTOBUCKET. Then on PHOTOBUCKET, you press UPLOAD. Your picture is now part of your ONLINE STORAGE AREA and you'll see it. To the left or under your picture, you'll see a link that starts with. Click on that link and press COPY. Then, go to this board and type in any message you like in any area you like and when you're finished, right click your mouse and press PASTE. Then submit your post. Your post plus the picture will appear. PS--PhotoBUCKET automatically resizes your picture so that you can put it on any board

Well, I sure hope one of those complexes doesn't have anything to do with how pretty you are. You're a lovely attractive girl and I'm sure your partner thinks so too. Even your words sound tender and gentle. Have a good time here.

Congrats keep long sticks and long vacuums away from him. Many greys are very fearful of them. Also, don't carry large cardboard boxes around him. They're pretty scared of those too. "'"He's terrified of any strange perch""" Any item you intend to use with him should be put nearby until the initial fear of that item lessens. He needs to eyeball them to make sure it doesn't bite. The things you mention apply to many greys. You'll definitely have to use patience with him. Even little things sometimes take a while to accomplish. """"'So there's no question he's brilliant, right?""' What grey isn't?

Hi Flint After you first posted without first introducing yourself, a large meeting was held to discuss the situation. The mods were there. Different counsel was there representing all present rules and regulations. There was a lot of debating going on but finally the rulings were examined by a 7 man jury. The vote was 5 to 2 in your favor so Judy and other mods have decided not to put their normal acts of dissapline into use. Judy the Mod officially says * you're forgiven*

They all do that periodically. It can be attributed to other things besides fear. Curiosity, sudden distraction, strange person talking to him/her, waiting for something with anticipation etc.

The areas to be most concerned about when using aloe are the areas you just had success with. Those areas aren't water proof. The feathers you're having difficulty with on the back and shoulder areas are water proof and any fluid will just run off the feathers taking with it any surface dander that happens to be there.. The feathers on the head are also water proof.On the back of the head, you can try squirting the neck area in reverse. You stand bhind his neck/head. His neck feathers will stand out and any fluid will get in. Use all the same methods even when using water. Good luck and so far, good job.

I would think this out very carefully before I decide to alter a cage that's specifically made to be a single style cage. The cage that's pictured is only one size bigger than a cage made for medium sized parrots. What's pictured is a Macaw cage. A proven fact and answer when a person asks about what size cage they should buy for a medium sized parrot is *the bigger the better*. The reason is that many times a bird needs to be confined to a cage for different or unexpected reasons and a bigger cage is more comfortable to stay in. Perching/ using bottom of cage...A grey's nature is to eventually find the highest area that it can perch on both in and out of a cage. Many playstands that have lots of perches underneath the main top perch are not used as much as the top perch. Now, for the splitting of the cage...most greys like to have total ownership of their cage especially if it's been in that cage for a while. Other birds will be put in the lower half. What happens if that grey doesn't care for other birds being around him. What if they nip at each other? The way birds act with each other out of their cages is no guarantee that they'll act the same when housed in the same quarters. Size of that cage cage when split...If split, the cage pictured will not be big enoughfor a grey, amazon or any other medium sized parrot. Think about altering that cage. Once done, it can't be reversed.