Dave007

If you abolutely no idea of his age, take a closeup pic of the side of bird's head. Make sure camera is aimed at the eye. You can get a rough description of it's age by posting it. A split ring can be put on at any time. A closed ring can only be slipped on a baby bird's leg up to 10/12 days old. After that the toes aren't flexible. It also depends upon the state you live in but in your situation, organizations that can give band information won't be able to if the band is of the split type.

<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/05/27 19:23

Since you didn't say, I'll ask you. Is your bird doing this the whole day without stopping or just periodically during the day?

Hi everyone--just thought I'd share--- I am passing this on to you because it definitely worked for me and we all could use more calm in our lives. By following the simple advice I heard on a Medical TV show, I have finally found inner peace. A Doctor proclaimed the way to achieve inner peace is to finish all the things you have started. So I looked around my house to see things I’d started and hadn’t finished and, before leaving the house this morning, I finished off a bottle of Merlot, a bottle of shhhardonay, a bodle of Baileys, a butle of vocka, a pockage of Prunglies, tha mainder of bot Prozic and Valum scriptins, the res of the Chesescke an a box a chocolets. Yu haf no idr who gud I fel. Peas sen dis orn to dem yu fee AR in ned ov inr piss.

IT'S A MAJOR BREAK THROUGH!!!!!!-----SPEAKERS ON!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cWnmCu3U09w

Hi jessica--Welcome Ok, you're a new mom and that in itself might be what's behind your problem/problems. It takes quite a while for a bird to get to trust a new person. Your bird might be doing somethings that are only partial. The whole procedure isn't complete yet. A bird might step up but touching him causes him to bite. That two different actions although a person thinks it's only one. The main thing here is trust and that doubly applies to a bird that's been living in another home. The bird can have some bad habits with the previous people and those bad habits might lessen after a complete trust is developed. The biting when being offered a peanut---right now, put that peanut in his dish. Do it steadily and for a while. He needs to associate that that nice peanut is coming from a hand. That's association. As time goes on, you'll start to offer the peanut after you see that he's much more focused on that peanut as opposed to what's holding that peanut. Growling is one of the most common things a grey does and it has to do with warnings that are aimed at you. You're new to him. He needs to see the whole relaxed atmosphere in your house. That applies to other people,daily habits that go on in a house. It'll take a while because the bird is a preowned bird. Touching him. For now, don't touch him. Let him decide to touch you. Substitute the touching with long closeup conversations. Don't expect the bird to answer you back. Patience, patience, patience plus the knowledge that he's gonna take a while to come around. Here on the board, we can give you step by step suggestions concerning specific situations that will eventually crop up. Many people here have pre owned birds that gave their new owners a big feeling of disappointment and temporary sadness BUT there's good times ahead. Going up the arm----extend your hand outward BUT aim it upward. A parrots likes to be at the highest point of a finger, arm, wrist. Point the arm downward and the first thing he'll do is walk upward to your armpit. Start off with these suggestions andmore than likely, there's people here that have pre owned birds who will give you even more information.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/05/20 23:36

That's right, all mynah birds are starlings.============================================= COMMON MYNAH GREATER HILL MYNAH AND FAMILY BANK MYNAH BALI MYNAH Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/05/20 19:48<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/05/20 22:34

Greys and other short,blunt square tailed parrots don't have good short flight skills. It takes a while to take off and they gain momentum and wing flexibility as they go farther. In other words, compare a grey to a B29 Airforce bomber. Big heavy plane which needs a much longer distance to take off as opposed to a F18 jet fighter which needs a much shorter distance to take off. That F18 jet fighter can be compared to a long tailed slender bird. Greys do fall off of perches somewhat more than other birds because they get very involved in whatever they're doing even if it's sitting and biting on a toy or just day dreaming. They get extremely focused on what they're doing and ignore or are oblivious to the fact that they're at the brink of falling. They can be easily frightened in a cage which causes them to fall. If they are clipped, that ends the act of going upward. If they're badly clipped that brings on a short distance crash landing which is why when a person really feels that the bird has to be clipped, that process should be done correctly especially on short tailed bulky birds. Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/05/20 05:13<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/05/20 22:29

Keep a mineral block in the cage even if he doesn't eat it. Eventually, all they'll do is use it to hone their beaks.

You have a large framed grey unless she's overweight. Compared to the other greys, does your bird look a little bigger in general? Example, head size, length size? The smallest CAG I have is 536 gms. The largest is 601 gms. None are overweight. All are large framed greys.

Fairy I can see that you're very reluctant to accept all of the help that these most dearest and sweet people here are offering you. Maybe it was your bad trip with that birding club. Maybe you have pent up anger that you've decided to aim at all of us wonderful darling people who sincerely and deeply care for you who are only trying to help you retain your sanity SO, after long searching through many places I went out of my way to find this official site that will more than likely help you from the depression you're obviously suffering from. I also wanted to let you know that I took some valuable time off from the running of my adult escort service to find this just for you. First of all, submit the first picture of this thread and the last picture of the bird walking. ==================================================== Guidelines for submitting your images for identification. This is a free service of Birdzilla.com. By submitting images, you grant Birdzilla.com the right to post said image(s) on this site or any site part of the Birdzilla.com network of web sites. The photographer maintains full ownership of the images and Birdzilla.com can not re-sell the images without written permission of the photographer. 1. This is a an e-mail/photo-based system only. Send your images of unknown species to: whichbird@namethatbird.com. The images (digital photos or scanned images) do not have to be of publication quality. Please do NOT send images of pet birds or baby birds. 2. We will use our in-house panel of "experts" to identify the bird in question and will send a response to everyone that submits a picture. 3. We will post selected images and comments on the Birdzilla Web site. By sending us your image your grant Birdzilla the authority to post your photograph on this or the Birdzilla.com Web site. 4. The preferred image format is a jpg, approximately 400 pixels in width, but we can handle most image formats and sizes. 5. When submitting an image include the location (state and nearest major city) and time of year that the photo was taken. Include any other notes that might be helpful in trying to identify the bird in question, including behavior. 6. We welcome the most common to the rarest species and encourage all levels of bird watcher or birder to participate. If we are stumped we will post the image for comments from others. So, send your images to whichbird@namethatbird.com and we'll try to help with the identification. Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/05/19 22:03<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/05/19 22:11

Actually, there's a few conures that do much better when sharing an area with other parrots ( not the same cage though). BCC is one of them. Nanday and Jenday are also good for that. As with almost all parrots, having another cage is and was the best way to go. GCC are extremely playful. Even though the bird did things in the past with others, such as step up, with that species, it takes a while to conform to doing the same things with new people. Your new bird has been shuffled around a bit so the best thing is to do a lot of calm talking. Pretty soon, you'll see that playfullness come out. Have some loose hanging toys and some ropes around cause they love to get upside down and hold on and yap. I'm not sure if you have a grey yet but there should be no problems if you do get one. More than likely they'll ignore each other. BCC aren't known to bite but if they do, it most likely will be of the warning types. Give it a little time. That step up action will return and happen very soon. Noise--GCC aren't known to make as much noise like other Cs such as the Suns. What will probably happen if you do get a grey that happens to be into sounds, he'll pick up what the GCC is saying ( in parrotese). The chances of that heppening are better with a TAG as opposed to a CAG. CAGS will eventually get bored. A TAG thrives on doing that.

The bird in your photo is mauve. You may also wanna check out Thrushes. Also, you can find Birding Clubs and send in the picture to get a sure answer. They usually know every wild soft bill bird that exists which includes their sub species, their scientific name, location, length of life, breeding, diets. Have fun on your fantastic journey to identify the bird. Who knows, you might actually become a birder. Then you would need a pair of binoculars, a long lens camera, a folding chair, a set of clothes similar to Steve Irwin ( don't forget the shoes)and finally a cane so that you can lend it out to the other ladies and gentlemen who have gotten tired of searching for their dental plates that were lost while they experienced the excitement of spotting a little dominus agitariol plaementirot in a tree about 1/4 mile away. Just to make sure that you understand --There'll be a tour guide who will put all of the birders in a bus. Most don't drive anymore. You'll be taken to a special area that has different little birds. The bird I mentioned ( dominus agitariol plaementirot) is a small bird that resembles a small brown sparrow. BUT, there is a difference. The above bird has a small yellow spot on the underside of the tail. The male has it on the left side, the female on the right side. Normally, it would be hard to see such a treat BUT, since the bird will be about 25 meters up in a tree, It will be easy to spot the underside of the tail. make sure the binolurs and camera are ready. But if you're lucky enough to actually spot 2 of them together, WELL, WATCH OUT cause you're in for an thrill cause you can be sure that those 2 birds will be up to some shenanigans. Look carefully cause those birds are only 3 inches long. Later you'll all meet for tea and crumpets and share themeanings of what you just experienced. Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/05/18 20:02<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/05/18 21:07

European Starling--all small to medium Not a north american bird 5 types white breasted yellow breasted gold to mauve breasted Complete azure blue ( one solid color ) Complete black ( one solid color ) In the wild, the diet is worms, insects. Basically ground feeders.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/05/17 19:09

More than likely, he's chewing on either one of his old foot scales or has found a small feather ( most likely from the head ). They chew on those items for hours. They roll it around the tongue and chew without swallowing it.

Black and white newspaper cause it allows you to see the color and consistency of the bird's fecal matter.

jjcool I'll try to help you in whatever way I can. I'll try to cover possibilities and the condition of the bird as I see it. This post might be long and not in the order that it should be. I'll try to combine the facts about products mentioned here and their proper use. First of all, looking at the pictures tells me that it must be a young bird according to it's eyes or maybe the photos aren't good and they're deceiving concerning age.. I don't know how many full grown feathers that the bird originally had. Your post was very short and it didn't say much. According to the pictures, your bird is plucking but I don't see any bald ( visible skin there) spots. The bird looks just like what a baby bird would look like when it's the approx age of an 8 or 9 week old chick. Normally, a bird who is a very bad plucker will pull the feathers and follicles out straight down to the skin. All of those fussy feathers are coming from follicles which the final feathers will come from. You bird is in a very special situation. What might be wrong may be it's personality and amount of nervousness . What I'm mean is that the bird could be a hyper bird as opposed to a laid back bird. Neighter is unusual. Greys have a habit of picking at themselves when things are just not right. They are self aggressive. Besides fluids and internal suppliments, a bird that's a plucker should have items around it in which they can perform very aggressive acts and not just run of the mill bird toys that just look good. It would be a good idea to buy cowbells and put one in the cage and one on the playstand. If you can get 2 different sizes, do that. Both will have different sound pitches. Have some hanging pieces of hard wood that the bird can actually grab and chew. It doesn't have to be pet shop wood which is flimsy and soft and overpriced. Bells and other heavy duty toys allow a bird to become very violent with them. Some people watching this get frightened and remove those items. Get the item that looks like hanging mulicolored rope and let it simply hang in one straight line up and down. Birds will grab that and chew and shred it for long periods of time. Get leather items and hang them around so the bird can intensely chew on it. In the photos, your bird has wing feathers that don't seem to be touched. If they were they would V cuts at the ends. Also, a plucker will also pull those feathers out and sometimes that includes the tail feathers. Palm Oil and aloe juice -------------------------- Palm oil doesn't cure any feather plucking problems that a bird might have. It's internal and makes future feathers stronger and also those feathers have more vitamins in the base blood supply. Palm oil also helps birds get the proper nutrients that a bird would naturally get from the sun and many people aren't aware of that. Palm oil helps those birds that don't get the same things from the sun because of filters built into the glass. Someone mentioned aloe juice and was concerned that the bird would get too soaked by it. Actually, when a bird is sprayed with that the skin and all the feathers that aren't waterproof get soaked, the better it is for the bird. Ideally, a bird who is soaked with it should stay dripping wet for about 2 hrs and if it's more than that the bird benefits. No drying of any should be done. The skin is soaked and becomes very soft and some itching is lessened. In your bird's situation, that should be done 7 days a week. The areas that are plucked and exposed right now aren't yet waterproof so you should have no problems soaking the bird's skin. The under areas of the wings should be heavily soaked. The upper and lower breast area plus the areas at the base of the tail should be soaked. The whole circumference of the neck area should be soaked. After all of this soaking, rarely will a bird start to pluck or pull at the feathers. In your particular situation, aloe juice should not be diluted. Feeding palm oil-----many greys and other parrots don't like palm oil. There's no easy quick way for a bird to take it in if he/she doesn't like it. Laying palm oil on an item like a piece of bread won't work if the bird doesn't like it. If that be the case, you would take a small handful of whatever pellets you're feeding and drip a 1/4 to 1/2 amount of the oil on all of those pellets. Even out tthat so many pellets get hit. Put those pellets away for about 15 minutes. The pellets will absorb the oil. If the bird flips the pellets, try, try again over and over. The bird will eventually accept the pellets If you are simply using a parrot mix food, that oil can be dripped onto the seed with no worries about the seed going bad. There's no way that the bird can avoid taking the oil in. You simply stir the seed mix and oil together. I always make sure that my birs have some on their seed besides the pellets You should have some aloe vera gel around to combat any bald spots that occur. One of the most common areas are the legs. That also lessens itching and also make the skin soft and supple. Also understand that it might take 8 mts to a year for you to have success. Many times, things seem to be going good and you wake up and see that the bird has started again. The treatment should be continued. The reason that a repeat may happen is because of the direction that the follicle grows out of the skin. Follicles don't come straight out of the body and point straight out. When they appear, they are laying against the skin and the end of the follicle material pinches the exposed skin so the bird pulls them out. Follicles that have no feathers growing out can irritate a bird's skin but plucking lessens as soon as feathers start to come through which might take a few instances of plucking before that happens. The whole success process happens when the feathers push the follicles away from the skin. Good luck.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/05/15 22:25

If you want to make your tiel feel good, after you get the mirror and get a marking pen and draw a checkerboard on the mirror. That way, when your tiel looks into it, he'll feel like he's visiting someone in prison and he'll be happy that it's not him. On the other hand, he could think he's in prison being visited and would feel very sad and might get angry that he's been dealt a terrible hand in life. Just check the bird periodically for any signs of a planned breakout or a suicide attempt.

If the guy already is in Cammaroon and has now decided to sell the birds, it's a scam simply because importation into the US is against the law since 1992. If the man is in the US right now and so are the birds, you might check out what's going on but be ultra careful. If any money is asked for before the birds can be seen, walk away. Only purchase the birds if you have a complete visual description. If the person says that he will take a down payment, walk away because he might be already in the process of moving away. If you're interested in greys, go to a legitimate breeder or a high quality pet store and pay the going price because that price will include guarantees, returns, the option of taking the bird to a vet and certificate of ownership.

When a person first buys a grey or other parrot, the most important thing to watch is how much and how fast that parrot decides to so called *decorate*, personalize and arrange that cage in order for that parrot to think that it's a home that he/ she can feel comfortable and enjoy and feel safe in all the time. So when that finally happens, that cage should be quite fine for playing in, napping in, eating in, relaxing in and finally, sleeping in which is why it's important to get the right sized cage immediately. I've never used a sleep cage because the main cage should also be used and accepted as the night time sleep cage and I've had a 100% success rate.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/05/14 20:45

***The man who is taking care of the CAG I am thinking of adopting told me that she doesn't like to go to the bathroom in her cage, he said none of them do.*** He's right. Your bird is the same as every other bird. None like to go to the bathroom. Bowl is much too big and sadly there is no company around that builds bathrooms with proper sized bowls for cages. Good luck though.

Give your baby bird as much as he wants at each feeding. All you have to do is remember how much it was that you're feeding. The bird is 6 weeks old?---Put the bird on 4 feedings a day. A baby bird will eventually let you know when a feeding or amount of each feeding should be decreased by simply not accepting a full amount of formula or simply not accepting one whole feeding in a day. That's the time to decrease a feeding. Don't make up any time limits or predetermined schedules for when this should happen as all birds consume formula for different anmounts of time. When your bird is showing you that it's hungry, just believe that it really is hungry and enough food will lessen that desire to be hungry in between feedings.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/05/13 18:42

my post, not yours<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/05/12 19:20

I pretty much agree with Jane. In the video, the fist is discussed. he says that the method will deter most birds from biting. He also talks about birds that will constantly lunge at a person no matter where it is, in or out of the cage. Right now, without any bird near you, make a fist. Lok at the fist and you'll notice that no matter where your thumb is located, there are areas that are exposed. There's no where to put that thumb where it's not partially exposed. Look at your pinky. The same exact thing applies just like the thumb. Look at your knuckles. All are now pronounced and protruding. If that bird on your fist has intentions of biting, those areas are very easy to hit on and I can guarantee that I've seen this happen countless times. Another thing Jane mentions is body language. People who own greys are extremely lucky people because greys as opposed to other species of parrots give out very visible body language indications concerning what they're about to do where biting is concerned. Another good thing is that they do it consistently. They would much rather use body language then bite on the sneak. The only thing that people have to learn concerning body language biting is that they have to learn the difference between 2 forms of body language which pretty much look alike. It concerns the bird wanting to be petted as opposed to getting ready to bite. Time and experience eventually allows that person to see the subtle differences. When that biting language occurs, a person should simply turn around and walk away. That attitude of the bird usually subsides because a grey doesn't like to be ignored. But the real reason for this post concerns Chet Womach. He's been around for quite a while and his past forte was usually smaller birds ( smaller than greys ). His method for dealing with all sorts of things concerning birds was using the stick in the hand method. Older videos will back up what I say. Even though I can't remember exactly when it was, he was put into a position where he had to admit he in a large post ( I forget which board it was ) that he should have used better methods when making those videos. The next thing concerns his videos programs... His whole thing is to get you to buy his so called training courses for $39.95. Many people did and on many boards, one of the big complaints is that they never received the videos after the purchase and some of these people felt that these boards should have never let his advertisements be listed. So my purpose here is for people to watch out who they're buying from and also to make sure that they check out what other people have done for specific situations. Somewhere in that mass of information is the answer to your problem. There is no quick fix for a constant biter.

Dan Thanks for the response. Reason for my post was this.. How many times have you heard a person say that it's very important to follow the advice of their vet concerning what to feed? How many times have you seen people get upset because their bird won't conform to what the vet says? How many times have you gotten the feeling that a person feels that what the vet says is set in stone? Now for other important things 1--try to use a lighter color. Blue can't really be read without high lighting it. Failure to comply with this will cause me to put a major complaint in to corporate headquarters on this board. The charge will be *Intentionally trying to cause bad eyesight and blurred vision for other members, especially older members such as Judy and Tracy and some others. 2--When is our next space launch date? 3--You buying lunch? 4--Will the ship have a proper, modern, up to date Porta Potty?<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/05/12 03:45