Dave007

2 threads above method 2

Marvelous videos. I can see you've got it down to a science. What's very good is that you can also train other species. Thanks very much. I really enjoyed the videos and your methods.

I have an outdoor aviary that my friend and I put together many years ago. I got most of the material from Home Depot. It's also collapsible. It doesn't look as fancy as designer models but it serves the purpose. When we open it up in the late spring, that's the only time I can put breeder greys and pet greys together without them getting aggressive with each other. None of the birds complain. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v50/DaveVP/CopyofCopyofCopyofMetalHomemadeAviary.jpg

There's nothing you said that's debatable.

Ohio couple married 70 years die 15 hours apart AP Photo: Felumlee family In this September 1941 photo provided by Dick Felumlee, Kenneth and Helen Felumlee pose for a photo nearly three years before their marriage in February 1944. 2 hr ago By Associated Press share 8.2k tweet 137 email NASHPORT, Ohio (AP) — A couple who held hands at breakfast every morning even after 70 years of marriage have died 15 hours apart. Helen Felumlee, of Nashport, died at 92 on April 12. Her husband, 91-year-old Kenneth Felumlee, died the next morning. The couple's eight children say the two had been inseparable since meeting as teenagers, once sharing the bottom of a bunk bed on a ferry rather than sleeping one night apart, the Zanesville Times Recorder reported (http://ohne.ws/1in7erG). They remained deeply in love until the very end, even eating breakfast together while holding hands, said their daughter, Linda Cody. "We knew when one went, the other was going to go," she said. AP Photo: Felumlee family In this September 1940 photo provided by Dick Felumlee, Kenneth and Helen Felumlee of Nashport in central Ohio are shown sitting on a log north of Zanesville about four years before their marriage. According to Cody, about 12 hours after Helen died, Kenneth looked at his children and said, "Mom's dead." He quickly began to fade and was surrounded by 24 of his closest family members and friends when he died the next morning. "He was ready," Cody said. "He just didn't want to leave her here by herself." The pair had known each other for several years when they eloped in Newport, Ky., across the Ohio River from Cincinnati, on Feb. 20, 1944. At two days shy of his 21st birthday, Kenneth was too young to marry in Ohio. "He couldn't wait," son Jim Felumlee said. Kenneth worked as a railroad car inspector and mechanic before becoming a mail carrier for the Nashport Post Office. He was active in his Nashport-Irville United Methodist Church as a Sunday school teacher. Helen stayed at home, not only cooking and cleaning for her own family but also for other families in need in the area. She taught Sunday school, too, but was known more for her greeting card ministry, sending cards for birthdays, sympathy and the holidays to everyone in her community, each with a personal note inside. "She kept Hallmark in business," daughter-in-law Debbie Felumlee joked. When Kenneth retired in 1983 and the children began to leave the house, the Felumlees began to explore their love of travel, visiting almost all 50 states by bus. "He didn't want to fly anywhere because you couldn't see anything as you were going," Jim Felumlee said. Although both experienced declining health in recent years, Cody said, each tried to stay strong for the other. "That's what kept them going," she said. AP Photo: Dick Felumlee In this Dec. 29, 2012, photo provided by Dick Felumlee, Kenneth and Helen Felumlee, seated, of Nashport, Ohio., in central Ohio pose for a photo with their eight children. The Felumlees, who celebrated their 70th wedding anniversary in February, died 15 hours apart from each other last week.

I've looked at Photbucket and things have changed. First thing, Go into your Photobucket account and login as if you're gonna store a pic( best thing with Photobucket is to never sign out) You should see an empty area with the words DRAG N DROP YOUR PHOTOS AND Videos HERE OR CHOOSE PHOTOS OR VIDEOS In the upper right hand corner of that rectangular area, you should see a small star. Press it. click on resize. a list of resizing choices will be there Click 800 x 600 or the next size smaller. Those sizes are the best to pick when using photos on different boards. Then click on upload. The photo you upload should be the size you picked. HMMMMM--I'll tell you what. Find the same photo you just posted and go thru the instructions above and repost it on the board again. Doing this will show the people here how intelligent you are. If you eventually have children, you can pass the info to the new generation.

You need to understand some things about plucking/ chewing. By the way, the feathers that're in the photo have been chewed, not plucked. So anyway, read this http://www.greyforums.net/forums/showthread.php?198942-Chronic-Plucking-(-Different-than-acute-plucking)-Some-Facts As far as resizing, where are you storing the photos ( photo library) Is it PHOTOBUCKET? If not, you should should think about joining it because all photos can be put in without losing them from your personal private files. and there's no charge. When you put a photo in, it can be resized ( 5 different sizes) You would use 800x600 or smaller.

Also, make sure to tell the vet about his general personality (biting at times) and then, walk away. Let your bird take out it's anger on the vet. Not to worry, avian vets are very used to that. Then he'll feel better about going home.

Nope, you're not missing anything----good price too. Your next step is to find out if your bird will eat it as is (thick- semi-solid) or do you have to melt it down to a liquid and drip it on things. Some like it solid and some like it liquidy. If your bird doesn't like it as is, get an old seasoning jar, wash out thoroughly, put a glob of the oil in the jar, micro for approx. 25/30 seconds, put in fridge until it's room temp, thrn drip some out onto food he really likes photo 1 is before micro photo 2 is after micro. the oil changes to dark red when microwaved http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v50/DaveVP/Palmoilbeforemicro.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v50/DaveVP/PalmOilaftermicro.jpg

Like Dan said, it seems to be a contact call. She wants your attention for something that you're doing which isn't bad. Also, if her cage is as empty as the Youtube video, more interesting things need to be given. I don't know how old she is or how long you've had her but she looks like a very young bird that still wants to have contact with her clutch mates. Some birds do it for food, some for scritches, some for physical touching, zzsome for being taken from one place to another.

As they get older they can become more outward or inward or just remain the same. Just remember that your present 2 1/2 year old TAG isn't the same as your past 6 mt. old TAG. He's becoming his own teenager. But everything you say about him sounds like a very well rounded bird. BUT again, if you feel that you wanna see a vet then do it. Being paranoid can send a person to the insane asylum. Overdosing or Suicide may be a side thought

There doesn't seem to be anything seriously wrong. A pre molt, a present molt and a post molt can make a bird edgy, grumpy and definitely more quiet. The napping can be from discomfort or lousy mood or just being a bit more tired. You should know that a grey--CAG or TAG--does go through personality changes as they mature. You should be very happy about the extra affection he's showing. It's also great that his appetite is very good. Coming out of the cage and still being active and flying is a sign that all is well. Many greys have periods when making sounds lessens and then eventually comes back. The llack of vocalizing doesn't warrant a vet visit unless all the other things you mention have been on the downslide which according to what you're saying they aren't but if it'll make you feel better, check in with the vet.

Many greys don't like being sprayed with anything so not to worry, they never hold grudges and after a while she'll get used to being sprayed. Using undiluted was a very good idea.

Many things can happen to bald areas. The ones you name aren't unusual but as you said, we would need a photo to give opinions.

Boy oh boy, for a person who doesn't wanna have any debates concerning the subject of aloe, you're really bringing up subjects that are highly debatable and the last person you wanna debate with concerning the subject of aloe is me. I'm the one that brought the subject to this board a long time ago concerning the use of aloe vera juice and aloe vera gel and I broke my backside in order to get this proven info. ANd I used my own birds first. They were the guinea pigs. As many will attest to, loads and loads and loads of people had many problems solved and there's never been a case of bird death or serious maiming of ANY species of bird that's been reported both on this board and other bird boards. I included the different methods of using them, where to buy them, when to use them and it also had photos of the products which stated that the products were 100% pure. Just because you have some holistic MD that tells you the items are bad doesn't mean it's true. Years ago, I can remember holistic MDs saying to many of their patients (people) that St. Johns Wart was the greatest product since the invention of the light bulb UNTIL loads and loads of MDs and people found out that it was toxic and caused very serious health problems but before I start getting into a debate with you, just read this link, and have your holistic MD read this link and tell your hjolistic MD to search around and see what other holistic MDS have to say concerning the products. Concerning your sister's ekkie,did you ever consider thst it wasn't used properly or maybe some other type of aloe product was used or was a large unnecessary amount used. One other side note===in case you don't know it, any fluid, water, aloe etc that's simply sprayed on a bird will instantly roll off those feathers without affecting any of the feather structure or thickness or disability. The only thing that WILL happen is that any dust ( dander) will immediately be removed from those outer feathers which are the wing, tail, covert feathers which cover about 75 to 80% of the bird's body. All of thse feathers are water/fluid proof.You say that the greys and other birds in the wild only bathe in water--do you really know about the other ingredients are in that water? Just because that water looks good, that doesn't mean there's no other ingredients in it. AND one other thing=======gastroenterologists have been prescribing 100% Aloe vera juice for years to their patients who have digestive and liver problems. http://www.landofvos.com/articles/wingtips/aloe.html The person above is well know for her ekkies

Well, it's not a pleasant experience especially fo you but you can ease that problem. You may get bitten but that's just reality. First off, get another person to help you. Then get a towel and partially wrap him up. Start removing the collar easily but quickly. I can tell you that the bird is gonna squawk, growl or screech. You need totry and put that out of your heads. The bird isn't suffering as much as you think. It sounds like it. Another trick-- have your friend hold a simple wooden pencil near your bird's beak. When he tries to bite, substitute the pencil for the finger and let him bite into the wood. Better the pencil then your fonger/hand but yes, it's better to have 2 people do the whole process.

You can try chopping the string beans and any other large vegetables into smaller pieces. Birds have a habit of nibbling and then when they're chewing, they drop the rest. Giving fruit constantly isn't a good idea. The fruit runs through the bird's system and runs out the other end. Lots of different veggies must be tried until you and your bird finds the right ones. Greys don't need a large variety of veggies, just the ones they like. Also, about those canned string beans==veggies in cans are made with preservatives to keep them edible for people. Those preservatives aren't too good. The best way to go is by getting fresh uncooked veggies or veggies that are frozen. You'll also need to find a ecent parrot mix to give. It's expensive at first but again, it's a process of finding the right one. There's mixed feelings about pellets. I don't find that pellets are important. They're a manmade item. Various seeds in parrot mix is more enjoyable. Also, just to dispel passed down one sided info about certain seeds such as sunflower, go to Food Rom and read new info about sunflower seeds which is in every bag of parot mix.

I'll repeat it here in case you can't find it ---------------------------------------------- First off, it's too bad that your bird was badly clipped. That usually makes different feathers grow in at different times so it takes longer for the bird to get an even amount of feathers all over the body. You're not the first bird owner to have this problem nor will you be the last. Now for the feathers==When a bird loses the the breast feathers ( usually all of them ) fall out over a short period ( about 3 to 4 wks or a little more). It's a messy time for the owner ( lots of cleaning up). That's basic molting that can happen 1 or 2 or 3 times a year. What isn't molting is when a bird loses it's flight and tail feathers. It can happen at any time during the year and It happens when the blood supply dries up in the feather and it's replaced by a new feather that has a fresh blood supply. It can happen at any time of the year consistantly. With molting feathers, when the body is wet, feather areas look thinner and sometimes look baldish. When those areas dry up, those baldish areas can't be seen anymore but they'res birds that over preen themselves so those baldish areas can still be seen but eventually look ok. This usually happens with dry patches of dry skin. It's always a good idea to lightly mist the bird with water ( cool water) so these areas don't feel as itchy. The bird usually doesn't pull at them at much. It lessens. New flight and tail feathers that have been damaged by a shitty clip will take longer to grow in properly and there's frequently some blood seen at the base of those feathers. This I what I was referring to above. There's nothing you can do. The visible blood will stop and the feather dies, eventually falls off and eventually replaced. What a person does have to be concerned about is when a normal flight feather is snapped in the general midle of the normal flifht feather. That happens when a bird is in an undersized cage and the bird starts to flap naturally and one of those feathers gets stuck between the bars. The feather breaks in half and most of the time the bird needs a vet to remove the whole feather from the body. I'm familiar with the proces but I've been dealing with different parots for a long period of time. I never advise a person to try to pull the feather out. Some birds act diferently when flight feathers are growing in differently. Irritation is occuring and just like us, we try to get rid of the annoying irritation. Many times, all of this is accuring from a shitty clip. That's why on this board we try to discourage clipping but it's always up to the person. Personally, I don't think your bird has reached any critical time but you'll need to watch carefully any damaged areas and try to keep those areas moist.

Sterling suggests a very good idea. Look at this link. It has pictures of the item. If they're hard to get in your area, you can order online or even make your own. No matter what, that collar has to eventually be removed http://blog.birdsupplies.com/feather-sweaters-for-feather-plucking-parrots PS----If a vet put that collar on, he made a big mistake. It's a preventative item, not a cure. If a criminal gets handcuffs put on and eventually removed from him, that won't deter his desire to be a criminal.

================================================================================================== Well, you're right about the cage being too small. For some birds, that can cause plucking. Also, that elizabetan collar can cause irritation and possible plucking and also nasty biting. It can hamper a bird from eating properly. If you're the present foster parent and the bird has been moved around to different areas, that can cause nervousness and evntually plucking. If the bird is heading towards another new home, that can hamper the mental stability of the bird and plucking will occur. Permanent long term critical. It needs permancy. Greys are known to pluck from the most minor or major problems. Food---she's eating veggies and fruits. That's the proper good diet which many people try to instill into their bird. You're luck there. By (dog food pieces, I assume you mean bird pellets) it doesn't matter because many pellets don't provide anything substantial so him not liking them is a good thing. Feather plucking---- at 17 yr old, I doubt that the plucking will not totally stop because from your picture I can see that not only are feathers mssing but there's also follicles missing so those areas will probably stay bald. That also happens to many other seriuos pluckers. ''can't have her where he is staying so she is at my place of work. (I'm still working on my getting my wife to let me bring her home, we have 3 kids 6 and under). "" BAD IDEA. The bird needs to be home and your kids need to know that the bird has a medical problem. First off, your bird needs a larger cage. THAT'S A MUST!!!!!! Those bars on the cage are made for mush tinier birds. Your bird needs more different sized perches that have different sized thicknesses. They need to be put in different areas in the cage. Your bird MUST GET a vet check. Your bird needs to be misted with a product called aloe Vera juice but he needs a more important product used constantly. Type in AVITEC.COM On the left, look for PLUCKING/SCREAMING---click on it Third picture from left ( spray and jar in picture) click on it there's 3 choices 1---premixed bottle 2--small jar, powder in it (8 oz) 3--large jar, powder in it (16 oz) ------- Get either 8 oz or 16 oz jar with powder in it. Stay away from premixed bottle 1 rounded teaspoon powder to 8 oz room temp water in a sprayer. Heavily soak your bird down once a day. If any remains in the sprayer, use it on any other birds sitting around. Discard what remains at the end of the day.

I answered the PM you sent concerning your problem. Look in your PM area to see it.

Type in AVITEC.COM On the left, look for PLUCKING/SCREAMING---click on it Don't dry the bird with anything. Leave soaked--no hair dryers, no towels, no drafty areas Third picture from left ( spray and jar in picture) click on it there's 3 choices 1---premixed bottle 2--small jar, powder in it (8 oz) 3--large jar, powder in it (16 oz) ------- Get either 8 oz or 16 oz jar with powder in it. Stay away from premixed bottle 1 rounded teaspoon powder to 8 oz room temp water in a sprayer. Heavily soak your bird down once a day. If any remains in the sprayer, use it on any other birds sitting around. Discard what remains at the end of the day. Make sure the skin is thoroughly soaked

I personally think that the worst thing you can do with grey is start whistling at him. Greys are one of the most famous birds as far as their whistling ability. It really doesn't what matter whether you're successful or not successful concerning the imitation of humsn language. The one thing you never need to do is train your bird your bird to whistle and believe me, you'll eventually start hearing it all the time. Actually you'll hear it a lot more than you'll hear your bird imitate human language because human language is not a natural thing with parrots. Concerning greys, it's totally natural so do yourself a favor, stop encouraging the bird to whistle. It very well may hinder his ability to imitate human language. Human language isn't natural. Whistling is natural.

It's been yrs since I trimmed my birds' nails. I too used a dremel but that was a time when the very first Dremel model was finally on the market years ago. All of my birds have a concrete perch in each cage and that does the job very well. Plus I never bought the dremel for them. I needed it for some projects.

Hi First off, the cage for the grey is in the wrong shape . A grey needs a wide cage , not a narrow high cage and that cage is very narrow.Greys generally move from left to right, not up and down. They go up to get toys and play with them. Look at the grey's body. Flapping the wings can cause them to get in between the wall bars and break.. Sorry to say this but you may wanna look into a proper sized cage. It's up to you. As far as the grill, it's extremely unusual that the grill is under the tray. If it's under the tray, the grill is useless so you wanting to switch the bottom is correct. Here in the US, no cage is made with the grill under the tray. The grill is to make sure that the bird doesn't walk in it's own mess especially feces and rotted food. He likes to tear up newspaper simply because he can get to it. Many parrots rip up paper in the tray. There's no particular reason to do this unless the bird is an adult. When they're adults, they're doing it to make nests. Sadly, the cage for IRN is also too small. It's also to narrow. When they spread their long wings, they also can get caught in the side bars and snap the wings. A grey's cage should generally look like this. They need a big cage. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v50/DaveVP/d4bfc98d-9494-4418-971e-90110017571e.jpg