Dave007

Although I can't get to the link right this minute because I'm having a little problem with my files, I will produce the link that says that Crepe Myrtle is unsafe but there are links that say an item is good to use and other links that say that the same item is bad to use and as long as there's conflicting links concerning what certain item is good to use or not good to use, my opinion is to go with an item that every link says is absolutely safe to use. Ok, here is the link http://www.geocities.com/tooland/woods.htm scroll down through the list and you'll see it. Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/07/09 09:36<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/07/09 09:41

Crepe Myrtle is on the UNSAFE LIST for use with parrots.

A macaw and a grey have to be kept separated for 2 reasons 1--the most important is a macaw's nasal passages. They are extremely sensitive to grey's and cockatoo's dander. There's been many cases of macaws getting sick because of inhaling dander. 2--although both may get along, both still playfully bite and a macaw's playful bite is 3 x stronger and can seriously injure a grey and because the birds are relatively young, they will play with toys and also beak each other.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/07/06 23:33

The syrup will make their tails taste like pancakes. The only thing missing is the butter. Your bird will be very grateful for your kindness

What's the maple syrup supposed to do? PS----bitter apple isn't used on an animal. It's an item that's put on things a person doesn't want the bird to bite such as furnitiure and such and it doesn't work anyway.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/07/06 01:23

It's not a question of being a bad mom. If you're having a problem and looking for help, that makes you a good mom. It's difficult to say whether he plucks because he realizes you're ill, but you may be partially on target if your illness has caused you to not be able to give the same amount of attention like you did before you became ill. If your bird started to be caged more than before, that would cause plucking. Chronic plucking refers to a bird that will not stop plucking because they've learned how to live with it comfortably. Acute plucking is temporary and can be somewhat controlled. You may have a very high strung nervous type bird which many greys are. They have a huge reputation for plucking. As far as him being in danger, a plucker is really in no danger of anything unless there's illness involved which has to do with plucking. You may want to check with your vet and have the bird checked out for skin problems. There's an item that's called aloe vera juice which can be sprayed on a bird's skin to make it less itchy. Greys have very dry skin and need frequent misting or bathing. As far as his tail, he chewed them, not plucked them. If he plucked them out you wouldn't see any tail feathers at all. The best thing to start off doing is soothing his dry skin with aloe vera juice. There's an article written on the board telling all obout it. I would also recommend getting a small bottle of aloe vera gel if he has bare,damaged areas ( looking like sores). Another imoportant thing to know is that once a bird starts plucking on a regular basis it'll take quite a long time to bring the bird back to normalcy. It's a long step by step process and you need patience and you should expect relapses because plucking is a hard habit to break.

I'm not taking anyone's side. If you've got a complaint about something someone said to you, notify the administrators who will take care of it. If someone insulted you, tell it to the administrators or to Dan or to Judy who are both moderators in the welcome room. The welcome room is to say hi and welcome to the board. That's all it's for.

This section is called *Welcome & Introduction Room". This is not the place to give out warnings you don't like. If you have a problem with someone you can take care of it privately. If you can't be nice to someone in this section, don't come to this section if you can't be civil. You'll let the administrators and moderators decide about who gives out warnings, not you. You've said enough throughout your months here to easily get banned here and that goes back to the remarks in your original profile but notice that you're still here. It wasn't anything you did that made the bosses here change their minds about you. They're simply more understanding and are willing to give people chances without having to warn them. When we decide to make you a policeman here, we'll tell you. Until then, behave yourself or you'll find yourself having big problems here. VERY BIG PROBLEMS! You're not the one that decides who gets banned so don't be making remarks like you know the rules. You don't know the rules but I do know the rules as well as many others do too. Now you remember something ---- You've been warned!

1--some type of food should be available in the cage 24 hrs a day. Parrots don't have the same eating habits that domestic animals have. 2--greys are not prone to obesity problems, even if food is in the cage 24 hrs a day.

If both are CAGs then 1---Adaya won't get darker as she gets older. 2---Their feathers don't get darker after each molt. If both are TAGs, the same thing applies.

1---How old is the bird? 2---How many owners has he had before going to the rescue center? 3---Was he a plucker at the rescue center? 4---What was his general diet at the rescue center? 5---Were you told whether the bird is a naturally nervous type of bird? 6---Were you told or did you ask why he was in the rescue center? You may have what is known as a chronic plucker which means that he probably won't stop doing that because he's adjusted to living like that with no problems. You should try to get some of the above questions answered. Palm oil or palm nuts or both together will not help any bird who is an acute or chronic plucker. The palm products provide certain types of vitamins that have nothing to do with plucking but it's still a good idea to use it because greys need those certain vitamins. If you have trouble feeding it, sprinkkle the proper amount of oil on pellets that he likes. The pellets absorb the oil and the bird eats the pellets.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/06/29 21:41

The issue is, for example if im eating something its more like if im eating something with a spoon then she flies to me and bites me really hard, shes that quick i cant move away, or she'll try and bite the plate/bowl my foods on. ( if i put her in the cage when i eat this doesnt solve anything because i'd like her to be ok with me eating in front of her. ) Probably, one of the most important problems that need to be addressed is the eating situation. At one time, you thought it was real cute when your bird came over and nibbled some food from your plate. Now, it's escalated into something more serious. There is no such thing as obedience training where food is involved. Your bird is getting older, wiser, more obstinate and wants what it wants when it wants it. Now is the time you have to change your attitude concerning your bird coming over to eat with you. You may like it when she does it but getting to the food is all the bird is thinking about. A bird won't sit around and watch you eating especially since he was allowed to come to the plate in the past. This is the time to forget about the cuteness of eating at your dinner table. Substituting a treat means nothing because a treat is also food. Treats shouldn't be given just because you think it'll make him obey the rules of family eating. You need to simply put your bird in his cage while you're eating. If he makes noise, he'll eventually stop when he realizes that he's not getting anything on that plate. It's already gotten to the point of biting when it concerns food at the table and you have to be firm with that. You're dealing with a wild animal who can't be trained to stay away from food. If you continue doing this, it'll only get worse. It's the same thing when a person puts a birds on his/her shoulder. It's real cute until the time that the bird decides to check out the earlobes and bites them to see how soft it is. Then the person has to stop with the shoulder cause you can't train a bird to stop biting earlobes, shirt collars, pulling at the hair, jewelry etc. By the time that point comes the bird is agile enough to escape the hand as the person tries to get the bird off.

""Yes Dave. She looks just like me. 48 yrs ago."""" You remember that far back?? You know that there's a name for the condition in which one person wants to think that he/she looks like another person at a certain period of time in the past, especially if the person of the past is so beautiful. Wishfulineous Thinkinglopiosis Sadly, there's no cure, no meds, no hospitals that have a special medical outpatient section for that. Insurance won't pay.

Tell Hailey that she's a very pretty girl. Hmmmm, wonder if she takes after the grandparents?? Oh well, probably not.

Well, you have some good options. But there's one that's a no no. Yes, leaving them with your brother is a good idea but your brother has to learn how to do the dirty work too. You shouldn't put yourself into the role of house keeper. They will live with him and deal with him on a permanent basis. He adores them but you never said anything about the feelings being mutual. The biggest mistake you're making here is that stuff about taking them back in a few years. Parrots don't need to be confused. They develop loyalties and bonds with people who are taking care of them and suppling them with their needs and giving them a safe environment. Switching birds back and forth isn't a good idea with any parrot small, medium, large or extra large. If the birds stay with your brother, he becomes the owner. Loads of people discuss first home, second home and third homes for parrots and it's the parrots that get confused and give out negative attitudes. From home to home---bad idea.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/06/28 19:20

If you post some of the particulars concerning situations or problems, we can help. So far you have 2 birds who are approximately the same age. One is very used to your house and has developed certain attitudes and habits. He may be the boss. The other one is a new bird in your house and is still unsure and possibly confused about things but also has it's own ways of thinking. Most of the time this has to do with the short amount of time he/she has lived there. That type of bird usually gets used to things from the inside out. He needs to get comfortable with his new surroundings, new people, new situations, daily routines and habits thaty are going on. All of this takes time and a bird should be given all the time it needs to adjust. Concerning the cage----as long as the cage has a medium bar spacing he'll definitely learn about a bigger space. Having a large macaw cage isn't a good idea. Those cages are huge. Introduce some hanging pieces of wood in the cage so he can chew. Add another toy soon after and let him investigate. Remember that CAGs take much longer to accept things. In the beginning he may be extra quiet and a bit moody. Let the birds see each other. Give each one it's own space. Each bird should be given the ability to walk away and retreat to the safety of it's own cage when they want to. You'll need to be more specific as far as what else you wanna know about.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/06/28 03:18

If you really wanna see how well your clicker training is coming along, use objects that your grey is totally unfamiliar with and don't usually have contact with and are uninterested in them. Once a grey knows what a popsicle stick is, it won't need any clicker to tell it to take it. That applies to any type of wood. More than likely in the future you'll have to discard those sticks before he spots them. Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/06/26 00:48<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/06/26 00:53

Using white paper will always make everything that's fluid look darker. No urine is as clear as water. It looks clear on other bedding but on white paper it'll look darker, slightly cream colored and more mixed in with the urates that the urine surrounds. As your bird lessens it's formula feedings, the droppings all get darker, urine and urates and more solid.

Animal Hospital of Westover Hills 9919 Westover Blf, San Antonio, TX (210) 680-5243 Affordable Pet Care 1362 Basse Rd, San Antonio, TX 4.47mi (210) 735-2273 Ingram Park Animal Hospital 6603 Ingram Rd, San Antonio, TX 8.22mi (210) 680-1800 Website Texas Veterinary Hospitals 2325 NW Military Hwy, San Antonio, TX (210) 349-2121 Pets First Veterinary Center 1806 NW Military Hwy, San Antonio, TX (210) 349-9393

Stick training shouldn't be done on the top of anything. Your bird should be taken to an enclosed room because flying around isn't unusual for a bird that's dealing with a new object. That's most prevalent with greys who are afraid of most things that are new and strange. Your bird should be put on the floor. The stick should be laid down near the bird. The bird will walk away. Do it again and again. The bird will not go as far as long as repitition is done. When the bird flies away, just go there and try again and again. When your bird finally accepts the stick being nearby, start using your hand with the stick. Put the stick 1/4 inch from the top of the feet very close to the lower breast.. He'll fly so do it again until he starts getting brave by putting one foot on the stick. Take the stick away and then repeat it until he puts 2 feet on the stick. Always do this learning process with no one around and distractions can't happen.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/06/23 23:21

Everyone who has a young bird should do themselves a big favor. Get up the $35 for an aviator harness. Good things are in store for you and your bird. If it doesn't work out, so what? It was only $35 and think about it for a moment----how much money have you already spent on things that are still laying around and not being used or are broken and can't be used? For those with older birds, it's still a good investment. It may take longer to use it but if it doesn't, it can be put into that bunch of things that aren't being used. Try to stay away from a feather tether. Too many buckles and clips and too heavy and all of that trouble only gets you 7 ft of length. Older birds can be trained to use aviators. I've done it. Friends of mine did it. I won't lie. We all took our bites but it was finally worth it.

Try 2 small teddy bears (8 inches long). Make sure eyes are facing upward. Bears should be yellow. <br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/06/22 03:40

"""I'm a little alarmed"" Don't be. They all do that. Nothing unusual in the photo.

The poor Timneh may have been the butler or the man servant. Those were the days where obvious prejudice abounded.