lovemyGreys

He/she is lovely, you will have to update this topic so we can follow your baby with you

A great link there.Here is one that has some great bread recipes .. http://parrotrecipes.com/modules/recipe/letter.php?letter=Bread

A cutie pie, we have a baby photo album in the nursery room, why not add a picture of your baby to our album

Yes tempt her with anything Pat & try to get her to drink even if you have to dip your finger in a little water & let it drip in her beak

I'm with Judy, it's only one try not to worry, if it becomes a regular thing then it will have to be addressed, but till that time just chill

Pat you vent all you want, none of us here mind at all & if the situation was reversed we would all be the same.Im sorry you are having a frustrating time with the vet, yes get hubby to hound them on the phone. I may be inclined if you get no joy to take her straight down to the vets, especially if you feel she is deteriorating .<br><br>Post edited by: lovemyGreys, at: 2008/05/07 23:52

I have heard of a lady with an ekkie who was a plucker, she had great results using a sock,it's worth a shot

Heat is one the first elements to be considered when caring for a sick bird, Parrots use most of their metabolic resources and energy for keeping a body temperature at around 104 degrees. That is why, when caring for a sick bird, you should turn up the heat up around 85, and when the bird shows signs of recovery, lower the heat gradually, about 5 degrees per day, before reaching room temperature again,So, to sum it up, the main idea is to artificially maintain a high temperature, for the bird to be able to concentrate its energy mostly for fighting the illness.

I have a few of them for my greys, as judy says i fill mine with nuts,or dried fruit

Here is a copy of a topic i posted in another thread Getting your bird to accept being petted / touched is not training so much, as being in tune to their behavior and clues and working with the personality of the bird.Each bird is an individual & therefore will accept human touch accordingly.some birds like physical contact while others like their personal space, but most are more likely to accept contact from people they know & trust. When approaching training your bird to accept petting, the first step is to read the cues your bird is giving you. You can do a little bit of training to get your bird more comfortable with the idea of being petted. As with other forms of training, practice in short frequent sessions and stick to small steps at first. Choose a quiet time when your bird is relaxed. Keep your hand in full view of the bird. Speak to your bird before petting him or her. Try just lightly touching and petting the beak at first. If your bird lets you touch his/her beak, try gradually moving your fingers to the skin on the face just behind the beak. Use a very gentle touch. Work your way around the side of the head. Work with the natural orientation of the feathers -- petting the "wrong way" can be irritating. Pet either in the direction the feathers naturally lay down, or gently scratch side to side between the feathers. Eventually, as the bird relaxes (a bird that is enjoying being petted will often ruffle its feathers and bow its head) you can work your way around to the back of the head and neck. Don't try to force your bird to like petting. Don't expect your bird to accept petting from strangers. ---------

Well here in the UK Mary we have many organisations that owners can report missing birds to, there is a lost & found register,animal welfare centers & forums are a great place to post missing birds on.You can put up fliers in the surrounding neighbourhood, local stores,place an advert in local papers,the list is endless really

Good link Tari, your have to post a picture if you make one

Great picture Tin , i love it.

Dont be sorry at all, you have every reason to be worried.A decrease in appetite & not drinking is a cause for concern along with being lethargic,please call your vet again for advice.My thoughts are with you & please keep us updated.

Hi Max & Welcome to the forum

Thanks for the update, hopefully when the blood results are back you may get some conclusive results.There are many topics in the bird food room on diet,although with an older grey it will take time, but well worth it if you can introduce a little variety into the diet. Apart from paper im not sure what else to suggest to put in the cage,id be inclined to use the paper & let your grey shred it Keep us updated.

Great pictures Tiff, thanks for sharing.

:laugh: Thats how i started too, one little blue budgie,look at me now

No i dont breed them Judy,im lucky that the tiels & budgies are housed together & get on well,i was advised that they would fight but mine never have.If i was to put nestboxes in, then all hell would break out,more than likely the budgies will kill the tiel babies,budgies can be vicious little things Im not willing to risk it.

Great banner Tari.

Gaevren wrote: The budgies are not tame,but are not bothered when i go in to the aviary, the white tiel Phoebe is very tame Thanks everyone for your nice comments

Hi Augusto, yes buy the biggest cage you can no need for a seperate cage for your baby.I placed my perches low down for my boys to start with,increasing the height every few days,but they are monkeys & will climb up the bars & give you heart failure i placed a few old towels in the bottom of the cage with newspaper on top for the first few weeks,just to cushion any falls. Where you purchase a cage is a personal choice,there are many onlines stores that sell safe cages.

I buy 10kg of seed, 5kg tropical fruit mix & 5kg pulses,i order every month,but may one time only order 5kg seed, but hey you pay the price for feeding good quality food

jessica around 7 weeks move your baby to a cage.Perches should be placed low in the cage at first untill your baby has mastered perching & climbing.

No Max doesnt look very impressed there Mark :laugh: