Dave007

Toaster oven--------any one that's sold is totally fine. Coffee maker--------any one that's sold is totally fine. Hair dryer------------any one that's sold is totally fine. Humidifiers ( made for breathing)--any one that's sold is totally fine. Microwaves----------any one that's sold is totally fine. Electric ovens-------any one that's sold is totally fine. Gas ovens-----------any one that's sold is totally fine. (as long as flame stays lite.) Hot tubs-------------any one that's sold is totally fine. Saunas--------------any one that's sold is totally fine. Foot massagers------any one that's sold is totally fine. Intimate items--------any one that's sold is totally fine. (Official Manufacturer Info---frequent use is suggested but not mandatory. Read the warranty) The only thing that shouldn't be done is blow drying a bird after a bath. That causes dry skin on the bird. The subject of Teflon has been getting blown out of proportion lately. Too much misinformation. The subject of Teflon should be confined to cooking utensils( pots and pans and baking items) on very hot stoves be they electric or gas. Amen, Amen I say to you---- If you can't breathe it, leave it.

I never said he was plucking. If he was plucking/chewing, you'd know it. It's not hard to conceal. Overpreening and plucking are 2 different things. Overpreening could be a sign of an over zealous or somewhat nervous bird. Many birds are like that. ***Could there be a small chance he could have a condition?**** Well, I dion't know what condition could possibly cause a bird to overpreen one spot. i've never seen it. That's why your vet didn't know what to do. You can go to another vet and the best you'll get is an ointment to rub on the area but that's not usually done unless thae area is completely bald. A condition can only be treated if a condition exists. ****Or are you saying that yes he's plucking/preening and that in his next molt those feathers will re-grow?**** More than likely, yes. And I'll say it again----your bird isn't plucking. There's nothing concerning that spot that a blood test will tell but do what you feel is best. *****I just want my Ajax to have the best healthy life possible ***** The problem that now exists isn't gonna affect quality health that you give.

What you need to know about is feather construction and the lengths of time it takes for feathers to grow back. When a bird molts, it drops a huige amount of feathers within 4 to 6 days. That type of molt can happen once or twice a year. That type of molt usually doesn't include tail and wing feathers which sporadically fall out all year long. I looked at your picture and I've seen hundreds of pictures of birds that have that situation in different parts of their bodies and it's a common occurance. 1----changing the diet won't correct the problem 2-----changing treats won't correct the problem 3----more or less showering/bathing/misting won't correct the problem 4----for your bird's situation a blood test is no t necessary because the problem is in one area. If there was a problem, that fluffing would be all over the body It's obvious to me that your bird isn't molting. You went to a vet and he recommeded another vet. I have no idea why because it's not a problem that vets can correct. Another thing about your bird's situation has to do with you. No one told you how long it would take to be corrected so you're expecting results in the 3, 4,5 week range which won't happen and this is why------ First off, that area may take as long as 8 to 12 mts to change back to normal ( depending on the bird's next molt). That's when new feathers grow in. The feathers that come in with a major molt are now gone from that area. There's loads of reasons why that happened but it can happen with an over enthusiastic feather puller or a bird that is scratching themselves with the claw which is also not unusual. *****Np pin feathers coming in*****. I can tell you that pin feathers are there because if there wasn't that fluff wouldn't be there. Exterior and interior feathers all grow in from the same place. *****He seems healthy otherwise and happy. Playing,talking, eating right, and I've not given treats amply at all! Help?! ***** The reason he's doing that is simply because there's nothing wrong with him. There's many decent treats out there which are good for birds that are good for birds and they can be given as treats or food. SO, now you know what's going on and the amount of time you may have to wait until you see changes. AND you'll notice that I didn't make a long story short because there's no short way to explain your bird's situation

****I'm being over cautious, but is the picture just of a bit of skin that he's knocked loose by getting scratched by something or someone?**** Yes---scratched off by the claws. Happens constantly. ***** Or is it something serious?***** No *****He does tend not to eat good food I'm giving him, and prefers sunflower seeds, but that's probably just him.**** It has nothing to do with diet , bad or good.

It is important to be patient, gentle and considerate of your new Grey. He doesn't know you. He is in a strange place with strangers. He will undergo a brief grieving period and a long curiousity period. He may have been with other babies he played with and his beloved and trusted caregiver.The adjustment - as far as food, cage and toys are concerned - should be a brief one. It will take a little longer for him to know you. He may be very cautious. He may be watchful. He'll be quiet. A bird is not a domesticated companion animal and his trust and love must be earned by all who wish to have a satisfactory relationship with him. If you have children or grandchildren, caution them about running up to the cage, gesturing widely or using a loud voice. Birds often are frightened of children because of their sometimes abrupt activity or sudden noise. Be patient. Don't rush him. He doesn't know how loved he is and how anxiously awaited he was. Tone down the excitement. Be calm. Allow him time. Let him explore the cage and become familiar with it. The toys will be new and exciting and he will want to check them out. Don't invite neighbors over to see him just yet. Let him come to know you and only your family. Be careful to avoid accidents - take your time. Try not to let any "bad" things happen. Once he knows and trusts you, he will be able to accept an accident as just that. Hold him securely. Don't let him fall or be off balance when on your hand or knee. No earthquakes! Don't push him into accepting intimate petting until he is ready. He will accept you but he must be given time to do so. He needs to become comfortable - with you and his new environment.Remember he is just a baby and will need more sleep and more food than an adult bird. Give him all the food he will eat. He will not get fat. He should have food available at all times. In your situation extra care must be given in all areas because your bird isn't weaned yet. Don't bathe the bird alot until he's very comfortable and don't do it everyday. Make the inner feathers under the wings, vent area, lower breast area the most important to concentrate on as far as bathing goes. Most of the things you're describing above usually apply to baby birds who have recently arrived. Prepare to understand that many weeks will go by before he understands everything that's going on.. It seems like your bird has gotten used to some everyday situations ( in your pics) but there's lots of other roads to walk on so be patient and he'll stay as happy as he looks. Good luck

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I checked out 4 different reputable companies that deal with exotic pets but all of them seem to say the same thing. The coverage is basically the same no matter what company you choose. These 2 links will give you much detail concerning insurance and insurance may not apply to the type of coverage you're looking for. http://www.mypetcover.com/pet-insurance-articles/bird-health-insurance.htm http://www.mypetcover.com/pet-insurance-articles/best-pet-insurance.htm

*Quality time* is when people who work all day or are out all day finally come home and spend quality time with their bird like playing, giving treats, cuddling etc etc. Quality time is interacting with the bird. It has nothing to do with what's in the heart. It's the same thing that people do with their dog or cat after being away for a certain amount of time. It also concerns the amount of time that a person interacts with a bird when home. Read the responses and you'll find out what people consider to be quality time. It's different for all people and depends on their situation.

Well, most successful training happens when a bird is very young and open to many new and unknown things. As a bird gets older and experiences various life styles of people plus the general habits of people or a house, they start to fit in. As that sets in it becomes baggage or history. They take that permanent baggage with them to anyplace they live in. A bird who hasn't been exposed to many different training routines more than likely will never change. A very basic example is flight training. It's extremely hard to get a flight harness on an adult bird who's never been exposed to something like that. Trying that often results in the bird giving out serious bites. Doing that with a very young bird is much easier. Barnaby is an adult bird who hasn't gone through training routines and more than likely won't want to. Since he's an adult the best thing to do is work on the present things that exist but slightly improve them. An adult bird can get very used to situations which we would find to be terrible for our birds. A bird who's been cage bound for many years really has no desire to investigate the unknown world outside. Some will but most won't. One major thing I can tell about TOO is to let him be on your shoulder as much as you can. TOOS are well known to be clingy birds. They're the exact opposite of greys who are independent and like being alone for long periods of the day. Having your bird on your shoulder will help you with your bird and I guarantee you that he'll find all the things he's looking at to be stimulating. Many TOO owners will testify to that. A TOO that's constantlystuck in a cage with only small amounts of human contact is a very sad TOO. A bird in that atmosphere usually reverts to yelling. A TOO on a shoulder is an extremely quiet bird. In your situation, Barnaby is a rehomed bird that does have some baggage.

I have to disagree with you concerning usuage of a clicker and how it applies to a wild animal such as a parrot First off, a dog is no longer a wild animal and no clicker needs to be used in order for that dog to do something and even cats are also domestic, clickers can't be used. For hundreds of years diogs have been trained to do things without any devices. Method and result with clicker as far as a wild bird is concerned------there's only a few things that a clicker is used for with a wild parrot. The major thing usually has to do with flight training both outdoors and indoors. Other things in the house should be done by hand, especially when it concerns behavior. Hands on. The way of using a clicker with birds is to use a clicker before any deed is accomplished. Click--Fly from one hand to another person's hand--gi9ve that tiny treat. The other person has atreat--clicks and the bird flies back to that person---gets that tiny treat. Back and forth. Eventually, that clicker can be replaced with the snap of a finger and that can eventually be replaced by simply holding the hand outward. Using a clicker after a bird does something is like using mental telepathy. The mental message---""Please lift up one foot"" so the bird, if he's in the right mood, lifts up one foot and then a clicker is used??? Why not just give a treat with out the clicker?? And eventually, birds will do all things without stimulation from a device. If I gave my birds treats every time they did something, I'd be in the kitchen making loads of things all day long. The only stimulation that happens for my birds when I personally want them all land on me is that they all think that maybe a photo of them is about to happen and believe me, I never used a clicker for that.

Well, I guess *personal time * is different for people. ym greys are always around me so whatever they do is up to them. Sometimes they fly onto me and i pet them. One of them flies over and wants to bite my bird shirt and chew the collar untill I pet him. Sometimes they just hang out together but they're still around me. They seem comfotable that I'm busy doing things *in their area*. They don't overly excited if I pet them. They do get excited when they hear fumbling aound that container of almonds and they hear the nut cracker in it. Understand that all my birds are adults---10---13---17 yrs old. So, I can't answer your question. All of them have gotten past that *quality time*AGE.

Both scenarios are interactive.

Good. Nothing I suggested is harmful to the bird.

I'll answer a few of your questions but you should understand that the info comes from resources that have proven to be correct and the next situation is where you live and what you do with basic but life giving items. So, it may make you angry but you want the truth. The dry food------Your bird is fully weaned so I have absolutely no idea why you soak that dry food for 12 hrs. At his age the food should be totally hard and dry. I really don't care whether your breeder does it. He shouldn't be in the business. Feeding that stuff to very young baby birds can result in the birds being sickly at a later date. The only wet food (damp) is veggies and it's gonna take a long time to find some that your bird will like. Any veggies that you look for should be green. Fruit has no nutritional value. You need a regulation guranteed parrot mix which you may have to get online. Picture # 2-------That mixture of seed has no nutritional value because it's overloaded with kernals of corn which have no vitamins or natural minerals. I don't know if your breeder told you to feed it or you came up with the idea but in either case, it was a terrible idea. Water ------******And yes, now I'm almost sure our water bowl might be infected, as we gave her the water directly from the water tap, without filtering it first or something. Water in Israel is not always the best this way. As well. we don't wash the bowl too good, we just wash out with our hands what's inside and put a new water.********* So, you're giving that water in an infected bowl with bad water. Does that sound normal you? Did you ever figure out that parrots and other outside birds need clean water? Ever hear about using soap to clean out bowls? Would you clean your own food dishes the same way? There's really no way to answer this because it only has to do with common sense. I've never heard of people giving bad water to a bird in an infected bowl. I was gonna say something about those feathers but I'll just say that many parts of your bird's body can be affected by what you're doing. Using aloe juice--it should be used full strength. Water bottles-----first learn how to give clean water in a clean bowl then we can talk about water bottles because those bottles are used for certain reasons and if bad water is used in them, the same problems can happen. PS---it looks like you need to buy things online so you should find out whether it's easier to get these things from the US or from the UK. Which ever is closer to you.

Exactly. never pick up your unweaned baby more than 2 to 3 inches from the bottom. Lots of petting. Keep the bird on steady ground when feeding. Have a few tiny toys in the box so he can knock them around. Put some colored cheerios in the box so he can mouthe them. He'll eventually learn how to break them and try to eat them. That's the time to replace with plain cheerios.

Magor molting occurs once or twice a year depending on the warmth and dryness of the bird's area. It's a messy time because all the old dead feathers (short) fall out and are replaced with new ones. During the year, small amounts of short breast or neck or vent feathers can fall out but that amount is hardly noticed. Wing and tail feathers can fall out but that's not considered molting. Their blood supply has dried up making them dead. That happens all year long and it can happen in different areas of the wings and tail feathers. One or two here or there. They too are replaced by new ones. What does happen with molting is that sometimes, a bird will get short tempered. There's no time table for major molts other that it happens 6,7,8,9 mts apart in one year. Then it happens again 6,7,8,9 later in that same year. Sometimes a bird won't molt until a year has passed. But ta bird will constantly shed a few short feathers all year long. With some birds it only happens once a year. If my greys are molting right now, it doesn't mean that your bird is molting right now. I have 3 greys and they molt at different times. The only thing that happens together is their sexual hormones kick into gear and they get aggressive with each other. What isn't considered molting is when a bird loses a tail or wing feather here or there at any time of the year. That goes on all the time because those feathers have blood supplies that dry up which makes those feathers dead. The bird you're referring to may have molted 1 month before you get him or 9 mts before you get him so he may be ready to do it again or won't do it for another 6,7,8,9 mts. So again, time tables don't exist here.

Parrots don't shiver when thy're cold. Shivering usually means extra alertness, extra awareness, extra nervousness. All of this applies to indepentent birds who are now flying and doing things on their own. It happens at different times and it usually goes away. A bird that young will also be very scared and the bird shouldn't be handled a lot when weaning. Warmth can be provided by putting in toys or objects that are naturally warm such as furry items. A bird that young needs tio have it's feet on solid ground all the time because agility is absent. Petting is fine.

First of all, they don't swallow the toys they chew and destroy. Giving hard items like various kinds of wood ( hard/soft) is very good for them. It relaxes them and keeps their attention. It sounds like your bird is being given all the freedom it wants which can cause him to go to unwanted places. Greys have only one to say hello to something. They grab it with their beak and if they like it, they'll chew it. You shouldn't let him do that. As they get older, they can get more crafty when trying to avoid someone. Think about enclosing the bird in a room for a part of the day. Let him chill out. Hang a heavy duty cow bell in the cage and let him spend his energy beating it up.

*****My little Ajax is spoiled.***** That's very true and it's also a bad habit that doesn't do the owner or the bird much good and that habit should be stopped immedioately before more serious things accur. ******After I got him I got lazy and tired of handing him treats every minute so I took to filling one of his bowls with sunflowers seeds and/or pumpkin seeds(all low sodium). **** No bird should be given treats on a constant basis ( it doesn't matter what kind of treat it is). After a while the treat isn't considered a treat by the bird. It's part of a varied diet . ****** The vet was kind of confused to his condition. She says he's not plucking but it's very unusual that only his down feathers are visable and no new feather have started to grow after 1-4months. She suggested switching his food to Zupreem pellets without food coloring ***** Changing a diet will never help the situation your bird is in. A new type of diet and partially closed shafts have nothing to do with each other. Shafts in that area are partially closed. All the baths in the world won't open a partially closed shaft This is a very common thing when birds are growing feathers back in after long bouts of plucking. The bird who doesn't have that problem and who has never plucked will grow back the exterior feathers in a shorter amount of time. That amount of time could be as long as 2 molts. ******Anywho...on to my ACTUAL question! lol How many treats perday or per week is a good amount? He is in love with pumpkin seeds and sunflower seeds. I can very rarely get him to take a few bites of vegetables as well as 1-2bites of some table food(such as yogurt,plain pasta, or whatever I'm eating from a non-teflon cooking pot) But overall he LOVES to eat his treats. HELP!***** I answered above but I'll say it again. There should be no regularity with giving treats all the time and if you're worried about the type of items you're giving, switch to almonds or walnuts or hazel nuts. All have a large amount of vitamins in them and it's a natural food for parrots of all types. With certain species of parrots, that's all they eat. Parrots also given different nuts when they're being trained to do different things such as flight training. It's the same method that's used when training predatory birds but they get raw pieces of chewy meat. There are birds that won't accept other items such as veggies or fruit when being offered by hand. Those are items that should be given in bowls and it's gonna take a very long time to finally find out which ones are acceptable by your bird. It's a pain in the ass to dump veggies constantly and put in a different kind all the time but that's the norm. And all of these things should be around your bird in food bowls without you being around your bird. *****On a side note Ajax behaved VERY well at the vet. He is usually very standoffish at home and in his cage(understandably) when strangers come overbBut when we got to the vet he was quiet as usual but let me pet him and give him kisses.(didn't try to bite me or beak me like he does at home when strangers are close) Likewise he was not aggressive towards the vet, he looked almost curious and relaxed.(of course he did get 2 sunflower seeds from her to coax him onto the scale) And when she had to pick him up to examine is spot he was a little mouthy but overall pretty docile. I'm thinking that if I take him out of his "home" and his area he reacts better because he's not in his protective mode(like a dog would be) When we were getting ready to leave he got to ride on my shoulder while I paid the bill and he was preening himself and my hair as he never gets to see my hair not in a ponytail lol. **** I hope you're not connecting this to any problems you're having because all birds do the exact same and opposite things even though they're facing the same situation. Example----don't be surprised if your bird really tries to bite your vet the next time. Your last paragraph all has to do with natural behavior. PS---I'm surprised that your vet didn't get into the area of feather construction but you said she was a bit confused. I'm gonna assume that she's an avian vet?

This subject has been talked about for a long time. Go to HUMIDITY--IMPORTANT TO YOUR GREY"S HEALTH About 2 or more yrs ago, Dan started the important thread above and loads and loads of people responded. Althogh there weren't many machine brands listed, the importance of humidiers was talked about over and over. I submitted info on inexpensive humidifers that could be purchased at pharmacies. Others suggested the ones they liked. These same machines are the type that can help with breathing problems for both babies and others that needed humidity in their surrounding areas. I've given this info out for years and NO ONE ever had any problems with them. Then recently, someone new came around caused a ruckus and started talking about Teflon that was in these products. Heating wise, these humidifiers never reached any where near the type of heating degree that would affect the Teflon in it. But the argument went on and on and on and on. The person felt that the bird was sent by the heavens above. Well, to make a long story short, this person finally wavered after realizing that all types of humidifiers had a small amount of Teflon in them but he still acted like a lost soul as far as what to get. People don't have the slightest idea how many products that they own have Teflon in them. As an example---For the person who insists upon drying their bird with a hair dryer has no idea that hair dryers have Teflon in them. The birds don't get hurt other than getting dry skin. Many toasters have Teflon in them. So, one thing you can look into are those humifiers that pharmacies sell. That's your choice. There's types that put out warm or room temp humidity. They cost beteen $35 to $50 depending on the tank size. They're simply filled with water and what comes out is air that's been humidifed. This is only if you feel like looking into it. If not, that's fine too . There's loads of other types machines from different companies out there. The machines I talk about have nothing on the box referring to birds but the ones that broke down on you also have no *bird* info. If you don't feel like looking into it physically, then look this up on your PC. Vicks Ultrasonic Humidifier V5100-N

That's called Pink Blush and many greys periodically get it. It stays a short time. There's nothing to worry about. They also get it when nervous or tense. Again, nothing to worry about.

Well you just answered your own question---keep feeding your bird all her favorite things by hand and she'll have no reason to go and get her food. After all, you're giving her custom service. AS long as she's eating be it from your hand or her bowl meas that she's not suffering any problems. You're simply spoiling her. Lots of people spoil their birds and it's common sense to wait for those favorite things. You're being a very naughty girl. Tsk,tsk, tsk.

What red skin?? I didn't see any.

I wouldn't advise you to move the cage because of the bird's present behavior. Your bird isn't doing anything unusual but moving the cage may make hinm nervous and he may pluck even more. The droppings sound perfectly normal so going to a vet is really unnecessary. Not going in a cage is no reason to go to a vet.

Hi Everything you said concerning what your bird does on a regular basis describes a very healthy bird. Playing, coming out of the cage, friendliness etc. As far as not going in the cage or eating, that can periodically happen to many parrots and there's nothing to worry about. Also, as far as not going in the cage-------some love being out of the cage for long periods of time but there is no bird that will stay away from water when they're thirsty. They simply go to the area where the water is. So, your bird may be going in the cage without you knowing it or will be going in the cage when it's thirsty. They drink very little but they do drink. Many parrots also pluck or chew on their feathers ( different areas) periodically for many reasons. It doesn't seem to change your bird's behavior. If you've changed foods recently or wanna change foods, you can try that. BUT, he will go back into the cage when he's thirsty.