Dave007

It's totally normal for a grey to only talk when certain people around It's totally normal for a grey not to talk when anyone is around. It's totally normal for a grey to make other sounds besides talking It's totally normal for a grey not to make any sounds at all. It's totally normal for a grey for a grey to never speak human words throughout it's life. It's totally normal for a grey to make high pitched sounds and low pitched sounds. Distracting a bird from making it's own natural sounds is like stopping an infant from mumbling. Very bad thing to do. So, there's no way to make a grey talk or not talk when you want. The bird's personality and nature controls that.

Also, many parrots shit out a lot of fecal matter when they wake up because of a build up that occurs during sleeping hours all night. It's usually the largest amount throughout the day. It's soft, liquidy, off color. Looks like pea soup. Many times, smell has to do with what she ate and how long it's been sitting on the cage floor. """"It was so loose that it splashed and covered a huge area.""""" That's what'll happen with large soft amounts of fecal matter

A bird that young and so small has no daily routine other than to be fed, allowed to push around toys, allowed to sleep. The bird shouldn't be put in a cage. You nedd to make sure the bird is warm, the bedding kept clean, water is avalable, light petting is done. Normally, people don't buy unweaned babies because of potential problems. Use the Nursery Section to post about your bird. This area is only to introduce yourself.

As far as thye chicken bone from the chicken wing-----make sure the chicken is only baked or boilded. No fried. Take the bone which has knuckles on either end. Scrub the bone in some warm water. Try to get the greasy residue off. Your bird will hold bone in one claw and chew up the knuckles then will work his way down. When he finishes the bone all that will be left is the bone shredded into crumbs. Giving bones may not work at first but eventually they catych on. Very healthy. There's thick bones and thin bones. Try the thick bones in the wing because they have fat knuckles at either end. Concerning the mash---some birds simply don't like it. If you want, you can try other types of ingredients but don't be disappointed if he doesn't like it,. Some birds only like 1, 2, 3 kinds of veggies and some like it fresh and hard. Concering the cheese---make sure you stay away from white cheeese. hard brick style( like the cracker barrel style) can be held by a bird. Concerning the oatmeal---fill a coffee scoop and let her eat as much as she wants. When she doesn't wnt anymore, dump the left over and you eat what's left in the bowl ( if you like oatmeal). Also, concerning price----large supermarkets will also sell the generic brand. same 10 pk, mixed flavors. Hypothetically, if the quaker oats costs $5, the generic brand will cost $2.50

Really don't know what you mean. Green veggies, some parrot mix, some yogurt once in a while( has good bacteria), some hard yellow brick cheese once in a while. They prefer cheddar. Some clean chicken bones from a chicken's wings ( marrow). Fruit doesn't really give a bird anything beneficial. It just tastes good. As far as oatmeal, you should try Quaker Oats flavored oatmeal. 10 to a box. All mixed flavors.

Very safe---not toxic but many people may be upset that your bird now has their personal number stored in his brain --for future use.

No, they're not allergic to any natural foods they normally eat. In the wild, they're well known scavengers and will eat anything that they can digest including what's on the forest floor.

A 20 yr old bird is very different from a very young bird that can still be molded. As far as the dog thing, the only solution is to take the dogs away all the time or let them do what they're doing. The dog/bird thing is a very common habit. Loads of people are in that situation and they usually put up with it or take away that behavior. Yes, you're going very fast but don't expect that dog/bird behavior to change. As time passes the activity will lessen as soon as *the thrill is gone* but it'll still happen. **** i have a VERY hard time with her when she comes out of the cage. She is extremely nosy and curious! She gets down off of the cage (the dogs are not in the room at this time) and she will wonder around the room, she will hide in areas that i didn't know she could fit in (i bird proofed my house before bringing her home) and i look for her.. once i find her she tries to bite me when i go to pick her up. **** Again, it's absolutely normal for a parrot to do that. They're masters of hiding. They hide in the wild. They hide in a home. They feel comfortable and some parrots will bring items into their hiding spots and begin to chew on them. So, you wanna stop this? Have the bird in an area where it can't hide or don't let the bird down to the floor As far as biting when hiding, that's totally normal because you're going into an area where the bird feels comfortable and secure. If that weren't so, the bird wouldn't go there in the first place. ******She has a toy in her cage which she came with - and she is getting to the point where she is holding onto it with her mouth shaking it on the side of the cage.. It sometimes looks as if she's going to rip it right off of the side. She makes this loud & very long kissing noise...But then slams it back against the cage. I was told not to take it out, and when i tried to she got really upset. I was just going to wash it and then put it right back in.****** That's a very normal thing for greys to do and no matter what you were told, the item should be left there.That type of habit should never be discouraged. They're playing with the items and at the end of playtime, that stops. Many people, especially me, encourage people to go out and purchase heavy duty cow bells and hang in the cage. A bird has mock fights, smashes it around, yells, screams and growls at it and is totally happy when they can do that. Loads of people here will tell you what happens with the bells. As far as the biting----because the bird is 20 yrs old, you'll need to start off with a short perch which will temporarily act like your fingers. At first the birst won't like it but eventually it'll get used to it. As time goes on, shorten that perch about 2 inches and continue. As time goes on shorten 2 more inches. Get closer and closer and closer.As time goes on, finally use your fingers. That perch should start off at the 10 inch length. Just remember that the bird is 20 yrs old and he doesn't intend to change many things that have made him happy in the past

This area is for Welcome and Introduction threads/posts. In the future, please use and post photos in the other appropiate areas/rooms such as Photography Room or wherever it applies. Thank you.

This area is for Welcome and Introduction threads/posts. In the future, please post in the other appropiate areas/rooms such as Grey Lounge or wherever it applies. Thank you.

As far as buying the bird------- First off, private breeders. There's good ones and bad ones. A good breeder will want to kerep the bird until it's fully weaned before selling the bird. That's the ideal situation. That breeder should allow acustomer to visit with the chick periodically to see the bird grow up into being a sellable bird. Weaning usually happens between 14 to 18/19./20 wks old until weaning is complete. There's no exact # I can give because all the birds are slightly different even in one clutch. That breeder will offer a certain amount of time for you to take the bird to a vet to get a *well check*. If there's a problem, a warranty/guarantee/exchange is used. Many breeders already have that done so the person doesn't have to. Ok, that's basically a good breeder. A bad breeder---will allow or even goad a person into taking an unweaned bird home. The breeder tells the person that hand feeding is no big deal which is untrue. The *well check* is useless because a bird must be fully developed so the vet can give a complete work up on the bird. Certain areas need to be developed before an exam so if a bird can't get a full exam there's a chance that as the bird gets a little older, a problem shows up and the person needs to get the problem fixed which can be expensive. Commercially sold birds---those are birds sold in pet stores and there's no way of knowing what shape the parents are in. Equate that to a *puppy mill*. The pups are great looking but quality is bad and eventually it shows up. Plus, in pet stores, the price is much higher. Many times, the pet shop worker won't even know much about the species. I've taught a few people about greys and how to handle them in Petsmart. Usually, the employees are young and inexperienced. So, basically, that's the choice you have. It's up to the person to make their choice. We do tell people who need to go quite a distance to buy a bird from a breeder to do that because it's a big $ investment and a person should get what they pay for even though it may be inconvient to do it. Personally, my feelings about buying a bird unseen and shipped to a person is a no no but others may disagree. So, keep asking and you'll learn more.

You should also have this around your house-- http://www.greyforums.net/forums/showthread.php?193760-Avian-first-aid-kit

Well first off. I have no idea why you needed to debate with yourself about posting your message. Everyone starts somewhere. Nothing you're inquiring about is difficult to answer. Loads and loads and loads of people have many special talents. Example--you're an artist. So, I'll comment on what you just asked about and as you ask more, than more answers will come your way. You're an ideal age to buy a grey becuse of their long life span. It's great that you wanna have children in the future and as long as you keep in mind that your grey will need the same amount of attention that you start off with, there's no problem. Some pweople decide that they have little time when a child comes along but you know the situation because of past bird ownership. The other pets help. The pets must be allowed to get used to the bird so you need to be vigilant for a while and study the situation. ***people rehome their greys once they are pregnant and feel they cannot shoulder the burden of new baby and African Grey. I know myself and since I am home already and enjoy all of my animals, I do not believe this would be an issue.**** I'll say it again. I don't see problems because you know what the word ***responsibility*** to pets means. You'll need to get your husband involved with the bird from the beginning in order for the bird to like you both.It's called socializing. Concerning children----many people already have kids when they buy a grey. The grey doesn't like having to put up with children's erractic quick behavior so the people have to amend their habits. There's nothing black and white about owning animals. There's 2 types of animals. One is domestic and the other is wild. Parrots of any species are wild animals and will always remain so. So when the time comes, your ideas about that type of animal may need to be adjusted. That's one of the reason this board exists. We cover thousands of subjects so it's up to you to get involved in the board. Your situation concerning kids is good becvause your kid will grow up with the bird being around. They'll be no amending needed. It's the same way a kid comes into the world with a dog around. Usually, that kid grows up and has a dog all his/her life.

In that recipe, the only reason the woman used it was as a binding ingredient and she stated as much. Remember, it was homemade nutriberrys?

Honey and molasses shouldn't be used on any everyday food. Yes, it has lots of sugar and it doesn't metabalize in the bird's digestive system. Honey and molasses are the basic ingredients used on bird treats to solidify the treat( seed and other ingredients). Nuti berries, seed sticks etc. Those items are treats. Honey and molasses may be good for people but not good for birds. Let your birds eat natural. Honey and molasses isn't natural for birds. It only tastes good. AND Honey Nut Cheerios aren't good for people either just in case you're in the supermarket buying cereal.

Adopting a pre-owned parrot is a different type ofthing and with it comes some difficulties and situations although the new informed owner is able to understand what they're actually seeing in that parrot. Usually, those people already own or have owned other parrots and are able to ease the pressure that the pre-owned parrot is going through. These parrots have usually lived in either one or a few homes in the past. With each home, the parrot develops habits that pertain to what's going on there. Parrots don't forget things very easily and when that parrot moves on to that next home he/she takes those habits with him/her. It's frequently referred to as 'baggage' which involves many aspects of the parrot's personality and habits and ways of thinking. The ideal adoption of a pre-owned parrot is getting one that has no 'baggage', but that's impossible. First of all, the parrot is older and very sure of itself. The 'baggage can't be gotten rid of. Usually, a person that adopts a pre-owned parrot forfeits the experience of that parrot living and acting like a baby. Many people, be they experienced or inexperienced don't have a problem with that phase of ownership. The people who do have a problem are the ones that expect that experience. They don't get that experience. What they do see is an obvious amount of previous 'baggage' and they become disillusioned and many times, the parrot will soon be off to it's next home. The amount of 'baggage' that the parrot stores away when living in that home depends on how long the parrot has lived there. Part of that newly obtained 'baggage' are the personalities of all the different owners and the methods used to make the parrot conform at each home. Again I say, parrots don't forget and they have the natural ability to store away more and more situations. Some of these owners should have never taken on the adoption of a pre-owned parrot and some of these same people should have never taken on the task of owning any parrot. The only similar thing I can compare this situation to is the adoption of a child. The ideal adoption is when the child is very, very young and the new parents are being given the chance to easily intergrate that baby into their family life and style. But what about those children that 10, 11, 12 yrs and older. They also come with 'baggage' which will remain with them. Some people can't handle that older child and then he/she will shortly be making that familar journey back to those different foster homes and all over again just waiting for the right people to come along and who will accept them for what they presently are. Adopting an older child isn't for everyone. Adopting an older parrot isn't for everyone. Luckily, there are those experienced people out there who can cope with either situation. The people that get baby parrots are doing another type of wonderful thing by providing that new creature with a hopefully good future. Good luck and ask questions.

You're welcome. I only do it because I'm such a loving, wonderful, easy going, likeable, caring, generous, congenial type of gentle, sweet, open minded human being.

1------It is important to be patient, gentle and considerate of your new parrot. He doesn't know you. He is in a strange place with strangers. He will undergo a brief grieving period. He has lost all that was familiar and loved - the other babies he played with and his beloved and trusted caregiver. 2-------He may be cautious. He may be watchful. He will want to learn the lay of the land. He will need to adjust to other birds (if any) and other companion animals you may have. Because of careful early management by your thoughtfully chosen breeder, he will be inclined toward acceptance, but don't assume it. A bird is not a domesticated companion animal and his trust and love must be earned by all who wish to have a satisfactory relationship with him. 3-------The adjustment period should last about three weeks. Be patient. Don't rush him. He doesn't know how loved he is and how anxiously awaited he was. Hold down the excitement. Be calm. Allow him time. Let him explore the cage and become familiar with it. The toys will be new and exciting and he will want to check them out. Let him stay in the cage for at least 2 weeks before fussing all over him. Pet, talk, give some small nuts. Communicate but let him get used to his 'home' (cage) 4------Remember he is just a baby and will need more sleep and more food than an adult bird. . Give him all the food he will eat. He will not get fat. He has weight to put back on after weaning. He should have food available at all times. Weigh him periodically for at least the first 6 months. Record the weight. Learn what is normal for your parrot - there will be small weight changes over time. Small losses - a downward trend for three days will call for a trip to the avian vet. He should be seen by the vet immediately, if there is a large loss on any one day. 5------Don't invite the family or neighbors over to see him just yet. Let him come to know you. Be careful to avoid accidents - take your time. Try not to let any "bad" things happen. Once he knows and trusts you, he will be able to accept an accident as just that. Hold him securely. Don't let him fall or be off balance when on your hand or knee. No earthquakes! Don't push him into accepting intimate petting until he is ready. 6------A parrot should be acclimated into the whole family. Allow the least amount of opportunities that will let any parrot become a one-person bird. The whole family has to be involved with the bird in all areas--feeding, treat giving, cage cleaning, adding toys and handfeeding certain types of food. 7------Your parrot should be in an area where your average daily constant habits, conversations, household chores, relaxation and guests are nearby. Putting any species of parrot in another room with no human contact or visuals accomplishes nothing. The bird has to learn to accept all different things and the owner needs to help that parrot do all of these things by putting the bird into the mix of things. 8-------Your parrot needs a decent sized cage and eventually he/she will have to be let out of the cage every day for as much time as you can afford. Putting a playstand nearby helps a lot. The cage needs the type of toys that can handled roughly. A lot of scrap pieces of wood are necessary for chewing and destroying. It's either the wood or your furniture. The reason for this is really simple......The animal is a parrot!!!! 9------When you bring your parrot home, although the temptation is great, it's not a good idea to be handling him a lot until he/she feels good about that new cage and it's contents. Everything else ahead of the bird is also going to be new and learning about them in a relaxed state is best accomplished from the security of it's own cage and no time limits should be placed on any parrot when anything should be accomplished. All parrots are different from each other. 10-----It's a bad idea to allow your parrot on your shoulders because they have a bad habit of biting necks, ear lobes, nape and head hair, breaking jewelry and sometimes biting the face. Not all do but it's a habit that should be avoided. On the other hand, a parrot can be put on the shoulder as soon as the owner is absolutely sure that the bird won't do the above things. You never can tell what's going to happen to you when you can't see the bird up there. Many people differ about the shoulder thing. I'd rather say that it's better to be safe than sorry. If you kids are very young, they shouldn't be making sudden moves around the bird. Kids need to be told what they can and can't do.

You should eliminate the perch. Take your time to walk over to the percvh ( a long time). Instead of using a perch, use the floor. He'll go from the floor to your hand but the perch won't be anywhere around. After do this whole excerize fow quite a time, introduce the perch. A bird likes to stay on a perch. It's a natural thing. Your hand moves around a bit. ( you may not even know it--the bird does though.). A perch doesn't move around. It's solid and steady and comfortable. take it slower. Is your bird clipped? PS---Also, I don't know whether you know this but many birds don't like people sticking hands in their cages. traing takes longer. They take to a person after coming outside a cage. How old is the bird? Any previous owners?

Is there some particular reason why you keep moving him from perch to perch? At first it may be a new novelty to the bird but eventually, they like staying in familar places for longer periods of time. *****Once on my hand, no matter what I do (stay still, move him, praise, give treats, distract) his only goal is to get off and back to a perch.***** Just what are you training him to do? Treats aren't given to a bird to convince him to do very basic things. That comes naturally. What your bird is doing is totally natural and all parrots deo it. What setback?

Well, it's about time that people here see an upbeat constructive video. Always overcomes depression.

Too much time? May be true but I channel that time to enlighten people that there's another world out there besides birds. It's called broadening one's horizons.

Just take it slow. Absorb your outer self. The magic words are Blending in the Outer with the Inner. Harisha Niy Gue--Peace may come to the mind.

Glad you liked it.

I don't comment on what a person is thinking, only what's being said especially if it's said as a fact which was done that way. Precious birds are rehomed because of ignorance?? Think of all the precious dogs and cats that are in pounds, shelters, CDCs waiting to be euthanized. They have no future. Only a very sad depressing death and no one gives a damn.