Dave007

Why don't you just pick up the eggs, switch them with chicken eggs, tell him that you're not in the mood for KFC and then tell him to go screw himself? PS--put on a warrior's hat that has some feathers sticking out and tell him what your tribe will do to his wife and children.

I asked that question for a specific reason because a correction needs to be made before a person actually applies it literally and believes it and reacts because of it, especially where family members are concerned Inferior is a human condition. It doesn't apply to wild animals. True, a bird needs to be trained in a certain position but there's a reason for that which has nothing to do with the word inferior. It's simply a matter of convenience for the person to be more successful in what they're trying to accomplish and for the bird to be more responsive. A parrot is a flock type animal who's natural makeup is to watch out for any possible trouble that's nearby. This is proven in the wild. They don't deal with trouble by becoming offensive. They don't stop and decide whether the trouble can be handled because that trouble might be coming from something inferior. Animals, even predatory animals who cull the weak members of their own kind out of a family only do this for the safety of the rest of the animals in that family. The weak animal is simply left behind. A parrot who is higher than a person reacts to that situation not by attacking but being defensive. If it can't succeed in warding off that problem and feels cornered it will bite. It's an area that contains many angles of escape. It will do everything possible in order to stop that discomfort. The best area in which a bird can accomplish that is on something that provides room to run away. A parrot doesn't see a person as being inferior because if that were true, the person would have to stay away from that bird in order to avoid offensive attacks which would happen on a constant basis. A parrot who is sitting on a lap and refuses to get off and when provoked, decides to bite is not a parrot who considers that person to being inferior. If that were so, the parrot wouldn't be on that lap. There could be no training of a parrot if that bird decides that what he's dealing with is inferior to himself. Frightened, uncomfortable, edgy, nervous, willing to put on a defense such as biting or flying away--yes. None of these things are done because the parrot thinks that person/persons are inferior. No one here has said one simple thing--the fact that a parrot such as a grey doesn't take to children very well and the person asking about his problem should know that. The child isn't looked upon as being inferior. The bird is fearful because the child is irractic. The bird can sense that there's nervousness in the air and also takes on that same feeling and bites or flies away. The person then goes to back to the bird and the bird reacts negartively because it's just been through a negative experience. If a person who is new to birds and sees a specific word that applies to the human condition and decides to continue with the bird but has that word in the back of his mind, that will only cause difficulties because that person will feel fear in everything he decides to do with the bird. The right words need to be used with a person who is new to birds. The literal belief in certain words that don't apply will only help the person to not succeed and that will happen quickly because that person will think that the bird is in total control. I'm also not a big fan of some authors that write articles in their books about certain subjects. Hypothetical---There's four different authors who discuss one particular situation in each of their books. The four different authors give four different answers and each insists that their answer is the only true answer. A PS concerning inferior--if a bird is put into a situation where his natural abilities of escape have been compromised, does the person who's put that bird into that position have the right to now consider the bird to be inferior because he's now in control? Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/06/19 20:14<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/06/19 20:22

""""One other thought. Birds look at anyone below their eye level as inferior.""""""" Is it possible that you can tell me where you heard that from or who told you such a thing?????

More than likely, he's a large boned bird. Greys aren't known for being overweight type birds. If you're not using a digital scale, get one. it gives a very accurate read out. My greys are between 575 and 607 grams. All are big boned.

If he's doing that when the TV is on he's just going with the sound. It's only the TV and he's jealous. Wants to be a movie star. So, don't worry about it

What do you mean by shaking? Forward and backward when you're talking to him or near him? Does he seem nervous when he does that? Is a constant thing that goes on all day long. Do you mean that he's bobbing his head? Is he playing when he does that?

I wasn't directing my answer to you, just the person who asked the question.

Why is salt bad for parrots? Simply put,the first and most important thing to know is that parrots cannot excrete salt the way humans can, so highly salted treats such as chips and french fries ( also extremely high in the fat content),salted peanuts should not be fed. Also avoid foods high in fat. Bacon is high on the salt list because pigs are given lots of salt to produce a soft types of meat such as the ribs. The reason a person can get baby back ribs is because when cooked, the fat surrounding the meat stays on the meat for a while until it melts and softens the meat. Even bacon can't be thoroughly cooked in order to remove the fat. The meat is left with a high amount of salt as is all other pork products. An add on----some people who have heart problems or are prone to heart problems because it runs in the family are told to eat a low salt diet because it causes hardening of the arteries.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/06/18 00:38

""""I can tell that BoBo does not like it the bathroom. I see it in his stance and the way he is constantly moving around looking for a way out.""""" He may just think that the bathroom looks and smells too feminine. He may not like your choice of towels.

Well, you can always spend a sunny day with the family at Jurassic Park and on the next sunny day, you can have a wonderful visit to Prehistoric Park. This park is famous for time travel back into the days of the dinosaurs. It was featured on TV. People built a special place in the present age and went back millions of years and brought back pairs of different animals in order to save the different species from extinction. In those days, the average cockroach was about 6 ft long. They also have huge mammoths and saber toothed tigers who are presently breeding and they also have a pair of T-Rexes there. No breeding though. They're brother and sister. Besides these animals. they have hundreds of others who came back to the present. While you're there just ask the resident vets about the fat. Instead of just posting the article, it would be great if you can bring back videos that will amaze us all.

Just remember to keep the 2 birds somewhat apart for health reasons. A macaw's respritory system is extremely sensitive to grey and cockatoo dander. Many macaws can't handle that minute part of the dander that lingers in the air and moves around and have breathing problems. Check the dander that's left on cages and other nearby items. That's what the macaw will also breathe in.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/06/17 18:42

The humidifier isn't gonna do anything where is it concerns a plucking bird. Humidifiers moistenms the air, not the bird's skin. A bird doesn't open it's feathers just to get the skin wet from a humidifier. Ever see a bird do that? It opens up to heavy fluids. Just because the humidifier is next to her doesn't mean much because a grey's feathers are waterproof. The mist, even though you can't actually see it, just rolls off of a grey. The only way to deal with your special problem where it concerns fluid is to manually put it on and that might take some doing. That should be your first priority. Many birds don't even like misting and you have to go farther than just misting. You need to get the skin soaked. You need to do it everyday. You need to soak the bird in more places than just the affected area. You have aloe juice that turned brown? Dump it. Buy a fresh bottle. Sometimes, it just goes bad. Put the open bottle in a fridge. Use cold fluids on the bird's skin. A couple of things concerning a plucker-- many times a bird has setbacks. Just when you think the problem is finally solved, a grey will start plucking all over again. That makes a person feel that they've failed but that's not true. I've seen greys have about 3 setbacks bhefore the problem lesssens.A grey does an extreme thing to itself when it plucks and that extreme thing goes all the way down to the skin. The bird has to have a long period of treatment in order to help with those setbacks. At one point it passes the new feather growth irritations and finally the problem drastically lessens. Another thing--a plucker plucks less when it's out of it's cage. Being out of a cage is a big distraction. You need to do this frequently. You need to get some toys such a heavy duty bell that your grey can take it's frustrations out on.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/06/17 18:27

""""Fat is perfectly ok for birds in small quantities. "" But not the type of fat that bacon has. There's heavy amounts of concentrated salt and a huge amount of grease besides the fat. The grease and salt is hard for the body to break down.

Well, for one thing, I never feed blueberrys or pomagranites. Both are extremely fluid and they stain everything especially walls. My parrot spaces aren't as clean as you think. My parrots are just as messy as yours. Like you I simply keep up with it. """"""""Every time I get the cages finally spotless one of them drops the bomb, flings food, tears up some toy, throws fruit shells around"""""' Everything your bird does, so do mine except I gotta deal with more than one bird. Those are never ending problems. I just sweep up the stuff on the floor and vacuum when necessary. As far as droppings go--a little trick if you can hold off immediately cleaning them..let the droppings dry out for a little while and they'll be much easier to pick up without all the smearing that comes with fresh soft droppings. I rarely use any disinfectant wipes or sprays to clean up things like that. I find that some paper towels dampened with water do quite well for me. As far as a table top playstand, when I make the box, I put a coating of clear acyrilic on the floor of the box. Anything that falls in that box can be picked very quickly. Nothing sticks. If you're not using newspaper in the cage tray, try that out. They can be replaced as often as you like. Just use black and white newspaper. It's hard to see unhealthy droppings on colored newspaper. Also, if for some reason or another your bird cuts itself and there's a little blood, the blood is easier to spot on black and white newspaper.

Any move can be rough on a parrot. Even moving some birds from one room to another can be a bad experience. On the other hand, everything can be opposite. Try to make the move as non traumatic as you can. If you can keep your bird with you while moving, that's a great plus. When you finally get there, the beginning times for the bird will be a little rough because of a new location, surrounding but if you're there to show support many birds will eventually settle down. If your bird is a talker or the type that likes to constantly make sounds, expect him to stop that for a few days. His daily amount of time out of the cage is fine. When you move let him see as many familiar things as possible like the way the cage has been set up. A cage is a grey's home and should remain looking like it was. I've moved a few times with more than 1 bird and there were no drastic problems. At first, they were nippy. I never tried to force myself on them. I just let them take their time studying everything and I set no time limits as far as how long this would occur. Normally, the grey will tell you that the transition has been complete and finally accepted. When you get him there, don't put him into the hustle and bustle of things that might distract him from calming down. Try to unpack your boxes a little farther away so he doesn't get rattled. Basically, take it slow and calm. Many people have to move for one reason or another. Another plus is that your bird is still very young. They will accept change much better than older greys that are very set in their ways. Even if he plucks a bit, he;ll stop as soon as things are calm. Greys sometimes pluck because ogf the intensity of things. While you and he are in a new place, constantly talk to him as you did before. Let him be aware of your presence as it used to be. Increase the amount of favorite treats that he likes. Continue your normal relationship with him as it always was. he likes sitting and annoying you at the PC? well, let him continue to do that. Slow, easy and with patience and calmness.

Sure, you gotta find out if they get along. Loads of different species of birds get along, some don't but they as well as you need to let it happen or not. That's the only way. Have a neutral area away from the cages and put a playstand in that area and when it seems like they can cope with each other while each is on it's own cage , put both on the stand and watch. At first, they may not put up with each other but you should try it several times so that you'll find out whether they will get along. It's done all the time. Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/06/12 19:33<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/06/12 19:45

Betty Japanese Maples??---You have them? I have 3 Japanese Cherry Maple Laceleaf trees that I planted 3 yrs ago. Crepe Myrtles --I'm totally unfamiliar with them. Maple trees---they're fine as long as the tree has grown to the point to where the branches are now solid hard branches. Baby maple branches tend to stay kinda of soft and pliable until they're adults. Personally, I think laceleaf and 5 finger maples are beautiful so I wouldn't spend my time messing with them. Oak trees are fine. So are many other trees that have finally reached that age of maturity. Yes, I would tell you to use dead branches. They're very easy to get and if they're not on the ground, they snap off of the trees very easily. I've always used whatever dead branches are around. The secret is to soak them and strip the bark off which is extremely easy. It can be done in the bathroom tub. Then you have very hard branches underneath as I said previously. I've seen similiar patterns in stores and the price is outrageous. I gotta laugh when I see that stuff in pet stores. Grapewood trees--same thing --as long as the branches are hardened. Branches that partially smooth and partially rough and knarled, bent and have knots in them are great. Parts of trees have smooth branches. Use your imagination. If you have a macaw, I would say to use thicker branches because of the size of their feet. The box that the stands sit in is also inexpensive. Buy a 2 foot square piece of 1/2 inch of plywood at home depot ( cost is about $2.50), nail four pieces of wood to the edges and you've got all you need. Also, instead of putting something in a box you can simply use legs and attach your design to it. A little amount of branches, a lot of branches--the choice is yours. Birds that need to get used to playstands are more attracted to branch playstands as opposed to straight dowel types. I just went outside and took pics of the branches I'm talking about. Also there's two of my laceleafs in the front of my house. They're only 3 yrs old and about 3 and 4 ft high. I'll soon be making another stand with those branches in the pics for a buddy of mine cause he has no trees where he lives. PS--and if you have little birds like my 2 quakers, you'll notice that they take to branch stands too.--notice that the thickness of each branch means nothing to them Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/06/12 17:35 Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/06/12 17:52<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/06/12 18:01

Betty Boop oop opp e doop. If you have access to dead branches, get some of different lengths and thicknesses. Roughly measure out where you'll like to put them in a cage or if you're making a playstand. Take the dead branches, cut them up and cover and soak them in water until the outer gray bark is soft. At that point, the bark can easily be peeled off. The wood under the bark will be extremely hard. Scrub the branches with some soap and water and let them air dry which shouldn't take long because when a branch gets soaked by rain, the reason it takes a while to dry is because it's the bark that has absorbed the rain, not the wood underneath. After drying, you simply place the branches in the cage wherever you like. Your bird will thank you over and over. Uneven, knarled, knotted branches are what parrots perch on when in the trees. Dowel perches aren't good for medium to large parrots because they're too even and too smooth. They don't allow the bird to stretch and contract their feet and claws around different thicknesses of wood. Irregular grasping is important for various muscles to develop in the legs, feet and claws. Claw/sand perches are fine. I imagine everyone has one. Many companies who now manufacture the more up to date cage for medium to large parrots have eliminated straight wooden dowel perches and replaced them with branch-like perches. If making a playstand, they can be constructed as a very basic stand or if you have a good imagination, the stand can be more complicated. It can be a floor model, a tall stationary model or a small model that can be taken from room to room. It can be in a simple T style or any other style you can think of. Just look at the design of branches in trees. Not pretty but extremely functional.Parrots aren't fussy. All that's needed is some screws and nails, a hammer and screwdriver and if you have one, an electric drill which can make doing the holes in the wood much faster. The branches are screwed or nailed together in different patterns that you can think up. The same types of branches on my stands are also in and on top of my cages. All are dead branches from my back yard. Periodically, those branch perches can be moved in the cage to create a different unsymetrical pattern. <br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2008/06/12 06:35

The perches should be slightly pointed upward, downward. They should be positioned in odd places. The perches shouldn't be symetrical. go outside and look at the branches on a tree. Everything is irregular. Branches go in all directions. Branches are different thicknesses. Nothing in that tree is symetrical. Parrots are wild animals and that's what you should closely copy. If you have dowel type perches that came with the cage, replace them with uneven types of branches. If you do decide to do that, info can be given to you on how to do that.

"""she does it hanging upside down hanging from the side of her cage. I don't know why its not like she can"t sit comfortably on a perch to eat she only does it with her soft stuff not her pellets or seed mix. """ What's makes you think that upside down isn't comfortable for birds? All birds do many things upside down including eating, playing. What you need to worry about is when you see strangers, your friends or your relatives doing things upside down. Then, you've got every right to be extremely upset. That's a problem that's not very easy to correct.

What's happening with your bird is called the first major molt. Sometimes some little thin or small bald spots are seen because the molting is irregular. He's relieving the irritations he feels by preening. You could do him a favor by spraying him with some cold water every day to help with the itching. Using any other item such aloe vera juice isn't necessary at this time. Try not to rub the pin feathers in the reverse direction. If the pins are aimed outward but not straight, just pet those feathers in the same direction as the feathers are.

I'm sorry for what you're going through. It's painful. I know you're upset and ready to kill the breeder. We all appreciate what you're saying about others not going through this. You never mentioned your bill of sale or what type of guarantee or exchange policy you have. Does it say anything about having a bird checked by a vet before a certain amount of time has passed? If you have no papers, there's little you can do. The vet's opinion of when the injury occurred means nothing if there's nothing on paper concerning the possible health problems that occur., Also, when a person buys from a breeder, there's paperwork and certificates given concerning age, health, date of weaning, explanation of the ID that's on leg bands, a health certificate if the breeder already got the bird checked, a time line concerning the return of the bird if the bird is checked by a vet if found to be ill. That's usually between 7 to 10 days. If a person decides to go to a vet after the 10 days and the vet finds a problem the owner is the one who's responsibility it is to correct that problem. That checking out figure might vary. There are other people here that breed greys and they can tell you that a person who purchases birds before they're actually ready to be sold is only asking for trouble even though they may not be aware of it. The customer is usually given a written sheet explaining the present diet, what other things can also be added to the diet. In my case I also give a 10 day supply of formula which is frozen when the person gets home. Many baby birds desire formula even after they're weaned. I also give a 30 day supply of mixed parrot seed. All of that comes with com[plete instructions on how to do everything plus instructions on how to make fresh formula if it's necessary. I also give 2 different sized syringes ans a preformed teaspoon and explain the feeding methods of each. I suppply a cardboard carrying case to take the bird home. I'm not trying to get you upset. I'm just telling you the usual procedures. Just know that we're all concerned about what happened and have deep feelings concerning your plight.

Congratulations--NOW, because you have all that flour, please bake a cake for lovemygreys in order to show her how much you appreciate her advice. She prefers something with apples in it and to make it special, top it off with a bit of cinnamon

If you're talking about some random red feathers scatered around his body, you'll have to wait until your bird has his first total molt. Most of the time, greys lose those scattered red feathers but some others may keep them because it's a permanent pigmentation.

Most don't like their wings touched and will bite.