Dave007

That's also a good choice. Male, female, it doesn't make any difference. You just need to remember that as with any other bird you might choose, there's a chance they won't like each other. There's no way to tell what that situation would be like but I can tell you that different species actually have a better chance of getting along than with another bird of the same species. Greys will fight and bite at times. That's because each species knows the how the other one thinks, have the same mentality, can be equally jealous and possessive etc. If you have outdoor wild birds flying around, you'll always notice that 2 or 3 or 4 different species will get along quite well when they're at feeders all together but if another one comes by who is the same species, you'll see lots of pecking and challenging to get to the food first. One will try to chase the other away. The most aggressive of all of those birds are hummingbirds who will chase each other away and chase each other for long distances.

100 % NATURAL ALOE VERA JUICE ------------------------------------------------------- Most African Greys and Cockatoos and some other species have extremely dry skin. They have natural dander which allows 75% of their feathers to be water proof. Many people who do bathe their birds feel that the job wasn't thorough and many times, that's true. A completely soaked *to the skin* bath is the ideal but for some, but understandably it's hard to accomplish. For some birds that don't get this type of bath, the dry skin escaltes and can cause itching, irritations which can then cause plucking or chewing of the feathers. Sometimes, a bird might even decide to pull out the whole follicle in which case, the feather/feathers will never grow back. olting is nature's way of getting rid of old feathers that have become useless because they've died and a new set of feathers is ready to replace them. This also applies to flight and tail feathers who have a constant blood supply in them and when that blood supply finally dries up, the flight and tail feather will fall out because those feathers have also reached the end of their life and others are ready to take their place. The loss of flight feathers and tail feathers can't be put into the regular classification of a yearly or bi-yearly molt. Flight and tail feathers die off all year long and when they die off it means the feather is dead. All flight and tail feathers won't fall out at the same time. When a bird goes through a regular molt all other feathers do fall out at the same time. For many birds whether they have skin/feather problems or not, periodically using Aloe Juice will solve a few problems concerning skin but it'll have no effect on whether a bird has a good or bad molt. Nature is telling the parrot's body to shed feathers in order for new ones to grow in. Using Aloe Juice or water will never get rid of dander permanently. It doesn't matter how successful the bath is or the use of the juice is. Molting is a neccessity and the dust whichis called dander provides natural feather protection. 100% NATURAL ALOE VERA JUICE is usually sold in 1 gal. Jugs and can be obtained at major pharmacy outlets including Dept. Stores that have a large pharmacy area such as Walmart. The price ranges from approx $7 to $9 depending on where it's bought. Using Aloe Juice -------------------------- I find that the best method for using this product is through a mister/sprayer. The juice can be cold or room temperature. I prefer cold so I store the jug in the fridge and just pour it into the mister. There's been discussion about percentages of juice to water. I prefer full strength and I know it can't harm the birds. I've used it full strength for years. The choice is yours. The most important parts of a grey's body that should be thoroughly soaked are 1--the inner part of the wing where it meets the body. That body area should be sprayed very well. 2--all over the breast area starting from the neck all the way down to the vent area. All of the above areas aren't water proof so the juice should soak in immediately 3--the feathers covering each leg. 4--the base of the upper neck /lower back of the head. I fill a mister with the fluid and start misting the breast area. I stand about 10 to 12 in away. The closer you are to the bird, the better it is for the bird. Using a mister close up doesn't disturb a bird as much as if the mister was farther away. Usually, the bird tries to bite the nozzle which is to be expected. They'll do the same thing with a water mister. In order to Soak the bird down under the wing area, I turn the nozzle to squirt with the bird facing me, I squirt in between the wings and the body. It quickly works it's way in. In stead of using full pressure on the trigger, I use 1/2 squirts so that the shock of getting hit with the squirting action is greatly minimized. Some birds will actually open up their wings and let the fluid through. Not surprisingly, the majority of birds don't though. The best time to use aloe is after a bath because it has no effect on the outer feathers because the flight, tail and covert feathers are all waterproof. Plain water which used in misters, baths or showers is the best way to remove dander which sits on the the outer feathers. Using Aloe Juice softens and makes the skin extremely supple. Normally, a grey or TOO will sit quietly after being bathed until nature tells it that it's time to preen which might take more than an hour. Depends upon the bird.. PS---I also keep a small bottle of 100% PURE ALOE VERA GEL around in case of periodic irritations on the legs I.e.--raw spots, dry scales and intense picking. I also use it for minor thin spots on the body that can happen during molting season. A little dab and it immediately is absorbed by the leg or body. Think about purchasing and keeping that product around besides the aloe juice. You can compare the gel to a first aid cream that people always have around for themselves. Neither of these items are harmful to the bird. The juice, if accidently ingested won't hurt the bird because neither item is toxic. The gel immediately sinks into ares where it's used. People also drink Aloe Vera juice when they have intestional problems such as ulcers and digestive problems.

100% ALOE VERA JUICE ------------------------------------------------------- Most African Greys and Cockatoos and some other species have extremely dry skin. They have natural dander which allows 75% of their feathers to be water proof. Many people who do bathe their birds feel that the job wasn't thorough and many times, that's true. A completely soaked *to the skin* bath is the ideal but for some, but understandably it's hard to accomplish. For some birds that don't get this type of bath, the dry skin escaltes and can cause itching, irritations which can then cause plucking or chewing of the feathers. Sometimes, a bird might even decide to pull out the whole follicle in which case, the feather/feathers will never grow back. olting is nature's way of getting rid of old feathers that have become useless because they've died and a new set of feathers is ready to replace them. This also applies to flight and tail feathers who have a constant blood supply in them and when that blood supply finally dries up, the flight and tail feather will fall out because those feathers have also reached the end of their life and others are ready to take their place. The loss of flight feathers and tail feathers can't be put into the regular classification of a yearly or bi-yearly molt. Flight and tail feathers die off all year long and when they die off it means the feather is dead. All flight and tail feathers won't fall out at the same time. When a bird goes through a regular molt all other feathers do fall out at the same time. For many birds whether they have skin/feather problems or not, periodically using Aloe Juice will solve a few problems concerning skin but it'll have no effect on whether a bird has a good or bad molt. Nature is telling the parrot's body to shed feathers in order for new ones to grow in. Using Aloe Juice or water will never get rid of dander permanently. It doesn't matter how successful the bath is or the use of the juice is. Molting is a neccessity and the dust whichis called dander provides natural feather protection. 100% NATURAL ALOE VERA JUICE is usually sold in 1 gal. Jugs and can be obtained at major pharmacy outlets including Dept. Stores that have a large pharmacy area such as Walmart. The price ranges from approx $7 to $9 depending on where it's bought. Using Aloe Juice -------------------------- I find that the best method for using this product is through a mister/sprayer. The juice can be cold or room temperature. I prefer cold so I store the jug in the fridge and just pour it into the mister. There's been discussion about percentages of juice to water. I prefer full strength and I know it can't harm the birds. I've used it full strength for years. The choice is yours. The most important parts of a grey's body that should be thoroughly soaked are 1--the inner part of the wing where it meets the body. That body area should be sprayed very well. 2--all over the breast area starting from the neck all the way down to the vent area. All of the above areas aren't water proof so the juice should soak in immediately 3--the feathers covering each leg. 4--the base of the upper neck /lower back of the head. I fill a mister with the fluid and start misting the breast area. I stand about 10 to 12 in away. The closer you are to the bird, the better it is for the bird. Using a mister close up doesn't disturb a bird as much as if the mister was farther away. Usually, the bird tries to bite the nozzle which is to be expected. They'll do the same thing with a water mister. In order to Soak the bird down under the wing area, I turn the nozzle to squirt with the bird facing me, I squirt in between the wings and the body. It quickly works it's way in. In stead of using full pressure on the trigger, I use 1/2 squirts so that the shock of getting hit with the squirting action is greatly minimized. Some birds will actually open up their wings and let the fluid through. Not surprisingly, the majority of birds don't though. The best time to use aloe is after a bath because it has no effect on the outer feathers because the flight, tail and covert feathers are all waterproof. Plain water which used in misters, baths or showers is the best way to remove dander which sits on the the outer feathers. Using Aloe Juice softens and makes the skin extremely supple. Normally, a grey or TOO will sit quietly after being bathed until nature tells it that it's time to preen which might take more than an hour. Depends upon the bird.. PS---I also keep a small bottle of 100% PURE ALOE VERA GEL around in case of periodic irritations on the legs I.e.--raw spots, dry scales and intense picking. I also use it for minor thin spots on the body that can happen during molting season. A little dab and it immediately is absorbed by the leg or body. Think about purchasing and keeping that product around besides the aloe juice. You can compare the gel to a first aid cream that people always have around for themselves. Neither of these items are harmful to the bird. The juice, if accidently ingested won't hurt the bird because neither item is toxic. The gel immediately sinks into ares where it's used. People also drink Aloe Vera juice when they have intestional problems such as ulcers and digestive problems.

Well, I don't know whether he'll bite you when you try to take out food and water bowls if he's in the cage but if he does, you'll have to go along with that habit of his. It's best to do all of these things while he's out of the cage, on the cage or on a playstand. If he has this habit, it'll probably remain but that type of habit isn't unusual. many people who have parrots have to go through the same thing even thogh they've owned the bird from when it was a baby. """""He hasnt been dna tested, i just say "HE" """""" That really isn't important anymore. The fact is that he has habits that've developed in each previous home. Honestly, some of those things should have been addressed immediately but unfortunately, people often ignore things because they think problems will just pass but they don't. As far as handling without biting, a good method to try out is the perch method meaning that you can use a long perch in order for him to hop on it. It also takes a long time because many times, a bird will show fear. It's a very gradual method. But if you can manage to bring your bird into a room that is quiet, has a door on it. You may have to wrap him in a towel to get him in that room. You can make slow contact with your bird with that long perch as long as it's quiet and no one else is around. If you're somewhat successful, start to use a slightly shorter perch. If that's successful, than use a slightly shorter perch. Doing this allows your bird to lessen it's fear of your hand/fingers/ arms. If you're totally successful, your bird will step up onto your finger. From the very start always include treats. To him, treats from you equals nice things from you. Have many toys that you and he can handle at the same time. That too takes quite a while to accomplish. Expect squawks, screams, yelling and growling and your bird trying to fly away. That's why I recommend a room with a door. Notice that no matter what I say, it includes "takes time*. Eventually, people who have birds with similar problems start to realize that *time* is the key. Don't put any type of time limits on what you're doing. One bird may need 3 mts to accomplish something, another bird need 1 mt for the exact same problem. You have a job ahead of you but you have one good thing going for you in that he knows you very well. Others aren't that lucky. Patience, patience, patience, patience.

You never said how old your new bird is and how long you've had him but there's a certain set of things that can be tried in order to handle a pre owned bird The main situation that can cause problems is the fact that the bird has been owned by a few people and has developed habits from each household. There's plenty of things that a pre owned bird has to get used to in his new home---household habits---new people----other pets----new environment----general hustle and bustle of the house etc etc. That usually takes months, not weeks. The bird has to first feel assured and comfortable in it's new house. Lots of talking to the bird, having the bird in the middle of everything that goes on in the house on a daily basis. The bird has to learn your habits, the families's habits. Immediate intense physical handling is not a good idea right now. At this time, it's not a good idea to have lots of strangers constantly hanging around your bird. There's a couple of 'classification' names that apply to all pre owned adult parrots that're adopted. One is 'the bird has a past history' and the other is 'the bird has some baggage attached'. Most of the time, history and baggage can't be totally gotten rid of. It can be modified though as soon as your new bird realizes that many things are now different. The best thing to do right now is to say to yourself that "I shouldn't be disappointed if everything I hope will happen doesn't happen". Having that attitude allows you to see the many other great features of your new bird and will help you to enjoy and appreciate them. It'll take some time though. I've dealt with other species, amazons included. Some of them were serious biters. Others are very nervous or paranoid or untrustingThey had problems that had nothing to do with you. Whatever the situation is, it came from other places. Through the years, my wife and I and friends of mine have worked with different species, some for a short amount of time and others a longer amount of time working with them for quite a while, We succeeded in lessening their situations but not all. Handling your bird is an individual thing because your bird has it's own personality unlike any other bird even though it might be the same species. The best thing to do right now is to say to yourself that "I shouldn't be disappointed if everything I hope will happen doesn't happen". Having that attitude allows you to see the many other great features of your new pre owned bird and will help you to enjoy and appreciate them. Having that attitude allows you to see the many other great features of your new bird. I would recommend that you position a chair at a comfortable distance from the cage (you can determine what the bird's comfort level is by his reaction to the position of the chair), sit quietly and read the newspaper or magazine aloud and incorporate the bird's name into the narrative. Have a quantity of very small treats handy. When/if the bird starts to show interest, offer the small treat. He may accept it; he may throw it on the floor. This isn't unusual. You should try to find a treat the bird likes and that means you'll have to search around a bit. Many birds like pine nuts, pecans, almonds, crushed bits of Nutriberries, a quarter piece of grape, etc. Experiment to determine what treat the bird likes best and use this treat at no other time except when you are offering it, whether the bird is in his cage or on the playstand or cage, etc. That'll let the bird associate you with a treat. The treat should be a healthy one which is why I suggest different types of nuts. So, be patient. These are things that will show the bird that pressure isn't being put on him. The best thing in training is for the bird to feel relaxed. This is individual training for a person that has one bird and lots of attention can easily be given to one bird. You need to take it real slow and remember that you're dealing with an adult bird and you don't really know the complete every day history of that bird, just general things.

They don't get ticks or mosquitoes. Both need bare skin in order to bite. Both need to stay on skin in order to inject an anesthetic before drawing blood. Neighther of these bugs bite wild birds either. What they can contract is mites and a bird needs some time outside before that happens. All wild birds outside have mites starting with the tiniest to the largest birds and it doesn't matter if they're softbills or hookbills. Protecting from the sun like you're doing, too much sun isn't good at all. Anyone keeping their parrots outside needs to provide an area where the parrot can get under when they've had enough sun. That's why they don't get sunburned. A parrot knows when to get out of the sun. Sometimes people don't know how much sun a grey or other parrot can handle. Greys and other parrots can pick up infections when being walked in the street. Many other animals walk that same street and you can't see what microscpotic things they've left behind. """"I have heard adding ice cubes to their water when they are outside is a good idea."""" That's only if they actually drink it. They don't necessarily drink water because they're hot. They'd much rather bathe themselves in cold water which most do when given very cold water.

I'll have to disagree about getting a cockatoo. An amazon with fit into your situation. The needs of a grey or amazon or totally different than a cockatoo. A TOO is a very clingy bird and requires lots of hands on attention as far as people being at home. A grey can put up with being alone although being around any parrot is better. The worst thing a person can do with a TOO is to keep him in a cage all day. They will easily pluck their feathers and in general develop sad personalities. Another very important thing to know is that TOOs are screechers and sometimes screamers. That's built into them. Macaws are the same way. In many shelters/rescure centers, there's an overload of TOOs simply because of their noise and neurotic behavior when left alone. It doesn't matter whether another bird is right next to them in another cage. One bird(grey) can put up with being alone. The other(TOO) needs to have a lot of physical contact with a person and needs alot of time out of a cage. A TOO isn't for a person/persons who are out from 8 to 5 PM on a daily basis. PS--many people have had to give up their TOOs because of constant complaints from neighbors concerning their noise and extreme plucking/chewing situations. This doesn't apply to every single TOO that exists but the ones that don't have this problem are in the minority.

You should keep all solid food in the cage available 24/7(seeds--pellets). Birds don't eat like humans. They eat all day long whenever they want to eat. Any vegetables you give usually have to be removed after about 2 hrs because they soften up and become a bit mushy. Treats can be given at any time you want either as a treat or as an add on to their food. Some people use items as treats when training and others use treats just to give the bird a treat. Treats come in different forms. Some are very healthful to a bird such as almonds . I don't use treats for training. I just give them when I feel like it. Others do it differently. Most of the time, after getting your bird used to veggies, it's best to give them in the morning.

He doesn't have to be a she to do this. Almost all parrots do this at different times for different reasons. Hormonal. playing, boredom etc. It's nothing to worry about. More than likely, your bird doesn't even pay attention to you when he's doing it. It happens more often when a bird can get to material very easily. There are some parrots that only do that because nature is telling them to make a nest. With some species, the male and female do it even though they're in separate cages. All has to do with nature. Put tiny twigs in and he'll mix the twigs in with the paper although I wouldn't recommend it because your parrot is a pet. PS--now that your bird is approaching adulthood, it will do this for the rest of it's life.

PS---Just so you understand what I'm saying here """""have to wait until the chick is actually ready to be given over to a customer""""""" What I'm saying is that the chick/chicks may not be fully weaned at any particular time. A breeder knowing his birds has nothing to do with how long weaning will take place with a chick.

If you're referring to parrot mix, yes you can. Some people use very little parrot mix so it goes in the freezer. That's also done to kill any small seed bugs that may be in the bag. If you're referring to veggies, it's best to buy the mixed variety that is in the store freezers . It's sold as steamed veggies. Don't really know if those veggies could be refrozen. If you freeze reg veggies and thaw them out, more than likely, they'll be mushy and lose their crispiness.

As with everything else, gradually make changes to introduce the bird to the different things you wanna do.

He's an extremely good breeder. I 've been doing the same things for years. """"""near christmas he thinks""""" That sounds like a person who's not making guarantees as to when the birds will be actually weaned. You may have to wait until the chick is actually ready to be given over to a customer. I also give a customer approx 1 mt of the present food so that they have time to change the diet. Personally, I would stick with him or at least remember him after seeing others.

The #20 really isn't part of the situation. Quakers can have 3 to 4 clutches a year with between 5 to 7 chicks in each clutch. It just may be that your bird simply doesn't know how to fly. Just to be light hearted, he just didn't start off on the right wing. Many greys have the same problem as well as other species of parrots. I don't think the clipping really was a problem unlesss the your Q was clipped as a baby and kept that way for a long time. Some can fly and have no coordination or a sense of how to land. I don't think your bird will suffer though. After all, he's being treated with honey and spice and everything nice, right?

Is he still without flight feathers or have they completely grown in?

**Plus it has the sun shine added in.** Just when I think I've heard a vet say it all.

Well, I just looked at those pictures and your bird doesn't look like anything you've described. Actually, I should have looked at those pictures before but I didn't know they were posted. Full amount of feathers, looks like a healthy bird in general. Just like any other grey. If you've seen white and grey feathers, it was molting. So, the only problems you really have are some of the other things that have to do with personality and acceptance of new but strange things that are going on in a new environment with a new household habits with new people etc. PS--concerning weight gain-------greys aren't known to gain weight easily. Very hard to do. If anything, a person needs to watch out for weight loss which happens just about every time a grey has some type of serious illness. Weight loss is the reason why so many people have scales. Rarely is the the subject of weight gain discussed. Even a cage bound grey won't gain much weight. People worry that their baby greys don't weigh as much as they've heard it should weigh but that has to do with the size structure of the parents. The important thing that happens at a vet's office is that 1---the vet checks the general structure of the bird--small, medium or large type, and then explains what general weight the bird should be concerning it's size and rarely does a vet say that the bird needs to lose weight..

Some of what you say isn't that unusual for a rehomed bird. Long term neglect, being in a place locked up, having minimal contact can cause loads of problems with a grey and not all of those problems apply to every singe re homed grey. First off you've had the bird a short amount of time--with some birds that have certain problems, iit may take a couple of months to see some sort of results. With others that have other types of problems, it may take much longer. Changing food---if your bird likes doesn't like conure food, don't feed it conure food.Try a different pellet. They too are all the same except for size. It won't hurt. Don't expect one parrot to like what another one likes. Basically, all parrot mix is the same. None of it hurts parrots. If the bird doesn't like fruit, don't give fruit. As a matter of fact, fruit isn't that important. It's acidic and many birds survive quite well without food. Tomatoes, bad idea--to acidic and more than likely, not organic although both still produce acid. Pickles--bad idea. It's not a natural food that they would eat in the wild so they shouldn't be given it. The ingredients are aged and many additives are put in. *The Ex owner never gave her any fruit or anything*.... And that may be the reason why she doesn't eat them at all. Changing homes doesn't change the likes and dislikes of food.I have greys that only like macaw sized pellets so I feed them that plus seed mixtures and some veggies. If they don't like them, I simply don't give it. I'm not gonna get nervous because they don't eat things that all the text books say the bird should eat. I can't force feed them. None of them show any problems and most of them are much older than yours and all of them produce very healthy big chicks and my pet greys are equally healthy. In my eyes, you have a baby (3 yrs old) and a baby bird has a much bigger chance of changing habits than an older bird, especially when those older birds are rehomes. Nervous---many greys are high strung and many times the cause of that is not letting a bird wean properly. Not enough time is given and birds are prematurely put on solids without formula. Most of the time that has to do with selling chicks for money purposes. This is one of the most common reasons for high strung birds. Many people don't know that because they're new to grey ownership. Many times, that type of nervous personality never leaves a bird. The older the bird gets, the more ingrained the trait becomes so you may have to accept that trait if it exists. Plucking---the combination of molting plus plucking at the time isn't a very pleasnrt thing to see. She may not have been a plucker before you got her and now she is and that may be due to many changes she's gone through. Your bird may be an acute plucker or a chronic plucker. Big difference in the two. So, only time is gonna tell you what she is. You never said how long she's been doing it. Chronic means that a bird will always pluck because it's ingrained in the bird Acute means that a bird has occasional bouts with serious plucking and then stops. Some birds molt lightly. Others molt heavily and pluck out feathers at the same time and it's not pretty but eventually, they do grow back in. ""nervous around new people "" Very common for many greys but much more obvious when a grey is extremely and naturally high strung. Every little thing the bird does is magnified in your eyes and only time will settle her down. Baths---* It seems the past owner never taught her for bathing or anything..* And more than likely, that's the reason she won't bathe but you're right. She does need a bath periodically but not as much as other people bathe their birds. That would be called a major bath. Many birds are fearful of bowls of water. As far as your major trouble with bathing--Are you afraid of your bird? Is she quick to bite you if you did the littlest thing? If not, there's a section here called bathing *1 and *2. Check them out. If it were my bird, I would go for the one that has to do with putting the bird in the sink. What's required is this--putting the bird on the floor, grabbing a hold of the whole body so she can'y flap her wings and putting her in the sink. If she won't let you do this repeat the same thing but use a towel to wrap her up go to the sink. Your bird is gonna give you a hard time but read the methods above and you'll see what to expect. I don't wanna repeat those instructions. Drinking--putting water in the cage----try to put a water bottle full of water in the cage. It's the type used for hamsters and such. Understand that every bird will drink water. If you wanna do a different method, have your bird out of the cage when you put water and food in. I can't tell you how many people use this method because if they don't the bird will bite the person seriously. I also agree about the vet. Your bird needs a checkup that will involve certain tests. You need to describe what's going on since you got him. Remember that most of what's going on manifested itself in another place. You'll need to address these problems one at a time and you can't put time limits on any of these things. PS---don't get upset with the price the vet charges. It will be expensive but at this time it has to be done.

Any new feathers that come in on a grey's body are supposed to be darker because they're new and have a fresh blood supply. They get lighter as they age or when the loss of feathers is around the corner. Most people look at flight feathers when they see shadings of gray. The lighter they are, the more aged they are and also dusty with layers of dander on them. Bathe a grey and you'll see those same feathers become very dark because they're very clean.

After deciding to buy a grey, the potential buyer visits the different babies and there may be one that always shows interest in the buyer and constantly wants to be near that person. That's * letting the bird choose you*. It doesn't mean that it's a guarantee that the bird will always favor you though. What if you go to purchase a bird from a clutch and no bird pays extra attention to you so letting a bird *choose you* isn't always a definite thing. Don't put such a thing on the top of your list. Think about picking a very healthy bird. That's important.

Unfortunately, there are no scented candles that can be used around birds. If the package says--non toxic---that only refers to it being non toxic to people. There' s an item that has dried leaves . It's usually made for designs in the house. The most common are wreaths and Xmax decorations. Both are hung on the wall. It's made of dried eucoliptus leaves. It has a nice odor and it's safe for birds. There may be other things but candles, whether they're scented or not can't be used around birds. They can be used in an area where there's a window which constantly pulls the odor out without it drifting in the bird area and that's usually in another room..

Good, glad to hear that it was a minor problem. Take care

Your bird may have strained a weak muscle in the wing. Sometimes itcan happen when banging off of something or exercising too strenuosly. You should go to the vet and have it checked out before the wing possibly starts drooping. A vet can tell you what to do or not do concerning flying until the problem is fixed. """getting a new feather on her wing but she won't let me look at it."""" Not uncommon. Some parots don't wanna be touched. Some get into bad , grouchy moods when molting. Some become withdrawn and very quiet. The major thing is getting the wing looked at. Right now, it doesn't sound bad so go to the vet to make sure it doesn't get any worse.

If the vet charged for the collar and your bird didn't chew it at all, call the vet and see if you can get your money back on the collar. Some do give refunds.

Ok people, lets cool it. A new person here is starting to feel extremely uncomfortable and I am too because you're venting on her in very harsh ways. She's trying to do the right thing. Maybe she will succeed, maybe not. You may not agree with it but everyone is different. Lots of people try to do the right thing and don't make out too well. Others do make out--lucky them. Not everyone has magnificent knowledge here. *****master's degree in psychology and have worked with special needs children as well as the seriously mentally ill of all ages.***** We're dealing with a wild animal here. We're dealing with a person who likes a bird and a person who doesn't like a bird. Very simple. It's simply a one person bird situation. Injecting information about birds is what's needed and not information about comparing special needs kids and autistic or mentally ill people to the conversation. There's no comparison nor is it warranted here. Keep all the degrees at home. Try to show a little compassion here. I don't like this stuff going on in my room. If you gotta make some harsh statements, there's other rooms to do it in and the moderators can do what they want there but not here. Anyone got any complaints about what I'm saying can go to the admins and air it out with them but not in my room