Spinner

...and don't underestimate that Jellybean might be worried about you and your husband. Our animals can easily sense when we are anxious and stressed.

Nope, I can't give you a reason to not whistle. Whistling is fine and shouldn't impact talking behaviour negatively. In fact, a grey that has yet to learn to talk will be able to imitate whistles and noises long before being able to articulate words, making later talking easier and usually mastered earlier. Greys will imitate what they choose to, whether it's a whistle, words, noise, door bell, telephone, whatever. Once they figure out the context of words to actions, then my greys have typically shunned repeating the random noises and whistles, opting instead to ask for treats or to let me know it's bed time. Now, if you're looking for ammunition against your husband whistling, then I'm sure someone will be able to help

Heather, when you say "do better", what do you think is missing or needs to be better? And how does plucking behaviour play into the equation? I personally love having more than one grey, and generally see greys behave well with others. Right now, both Beaker and Gabi are bidding on my banana and attention. It's quite fun (at times). They will dance on their playstand wanting to join in on my one-on-one time with the other. It is quite an adventure to have two greys using me as a play gym, but it can be a bit much at times. Be sure to understand the demands of two greys. It is more than double the work to have more than one. It is also double the financial impact - don't even think of sharing play stands, toys, etc. So again, ask yourself what you feel Bird is missing and how another grey might fill that void. I'd be interested in hearing more. I know many others here that have multiples, including mixed-species. Hopefully they'll chime in with their opinions.

We'll disagree on this one. My experience, the data I have, and the use of water bottles in the vast majority of commercial animal care facilities indicates water bottles to be the safest water system for our birds. I stick with data over anecdotal concerns. Regardless, though, I'm glad Chico has found what works for him.

Can't get enough baby grey pics! Thanks for sharing.

Yay for Chico! Waterbottles are clearly the most sanitary method for drinking water delivery. No droppings, no food in the bowl, no bathing remains. They keep the walls a little dryer too from in-cage water play

As Dan says. It's quite likely she was regurgitating food for you. She loves you

So sorry to hear about your loss. I'm sure Charlie was an exceptional baby. PDD is now thought to be transmitted through the avian bornavirus. The virus does not affect all birds, not even those that are infected or carry the virus. It can also be many years after infection before symptoms hit (one citation was eight years), and relatively few birds that are infected with the virus will ever show symptoms. Since your grey was so young, it may have actually contacted the disease through the mother (via the egg - yes this is a known transmission method of this disease). I would be sure to report back to where you obtained your grey, if you haven't already done so (pet store, breeder, whereever). To your question about when or if you can get another bird: the common opinion is in a single-bird environment you can reduce a new bird's likelyhood of getting the virus, implying you can indeed get another bird. Common precautions should apply, such as thorough and regular cleanings, etc. The problem is little is known about avian bornavirus. As for cleaning, I don't know of any efficacy testing against bornavirus by either of my go-to disinfectants (Pet Focus and Kennesol), or any other disinfectant. Assuming they are, a thorough wetting and soak should suffice. Use new perches and anything else that has absorbent properties. Note, I'm not a medical/veterinary expert - I'm a breeder that has researched this extensively to make sure I am providing healthy birds and not contributing to propagating a disease. Consult your vet for specific opinions. If it were me (but I'm not advising you) is that I would be taking precautions and then start looking for another baby. If you do decide to get another baby, don't go back to your original source. And, best wishes to you.

Warm, moist toilet paper or paper towel to gently soak the food. It will slowly moisten and soften enough for removal. Do not attempt to pull the food off - use gentle wiping. Of course, the best solution is to wipe off any food after feeding is completed. If the food is overflow from your bird regurgitating after feeding, then you may be feeding to much or the consistency is off.

I don't think she does, but we all know how well birds mask any issues. You would have no idea anything happened to her except for where the bone healed. As for the band removal issue. Here's another anectodal case where the vet "thinks" the band got caught. But this one was a split-band. Folks, keep your solid bands on - it's the only way you can ID your bird in a dispute. And those happen far more often than a band getting caught.

That is a baby grey BEGGING for food and attention! It's obviously a very young bird, and I'm curious about the history. How old is he? He is acting like a recently weaned baby that is looking for food from its mother. At this age, they equate attention to a full crop of food, and if they aren't getting it, they will beg as seen in your video.

Thanks for the post. Barbara's methods are scientific, patient, grounded, and successful. No one can dispute the methods she uses. I recommend her workshops to everyone, regardless of skill. If you can't attend one of her workshops, then get her training videos - they are more than worth the money.

If spraying/misting isn't met with enthusiasm, then stop! From what you describe, your grey is seeing this as a negative, and it is impacting her trust with you. No need to continue, and many reasons to stop. As has been said, make sure a bowl of water is available to splash in and leave Rosie to get wet when she wants to. Work on trust and training so she will happily step up and interact.

Best wishes to Luna and a healthy recovery! Our Gabi broke her leg this past spring, catching her leg between deck boards on an errant landing. It was a clean break and had a similar splint on her leg. We had to cover it in "sacrificial tape" that got chewed up instead of the cast. It required daily additions to keep her away from the splint. She has healed and is back to normal. No one would know anything happened. I can't say how Luna's recovery will go, but wish all the best. I know how painful it is to watch your baby have to deal with this.

This is one more reason to once again reiterate that African Greys are not like dogs or cats, and the adoption requirements applied to them don't usually apply to birds - too many sellers search the net for breeder contracts and find a dog or cat contract to use. Birds aren't like other pets! I want to clarify a few things from a breeder's perspective: Breeder contracts are enforceable, and I do enforce my contracts - legally. You signed it, you are bound by it. Period. While I disagree with clipping except for clear medical reasons, it is appropriate for a rescue to require clipped wings. I have seen data that says over 40% of rescue birds are those that have escaped from their owners (whether accidentally or deliberate is another discussion). So they are quite justified and right from their perspectives that a solution to the rescue population is to require clipping, and to contractually require it. Yes, it is enforceable. Is it enforced? Not likely. If you find a contract stating some requirement you don't like, either renegotiate the contract or walk away. Don't assume it's unenforceable or it that is doesn't really apply - it is enforceable and it does apply. Remember that most contracts contain verbage to legally protect the contract writer, financially or otherwise. It is my opinion that new-owner contracts also contain verbage to protect the bird. Requiring clipping doesn't fall under that category. My opinions, observations, and experiences.

How's Jimbob? Improved?

Check Jimbob's morning bomb and see what it looks like. If it looks normal, but excessively watery, you're likely ok. If not, then call your vet to see if a dropping sample would be ok or if he needs a vent culture.

Oh, and to be clear, watery droppings are ok. But if they are only water, with little or no fecal (green stuff) matter, then there's a problem. The amount of urine (the watery part of the droppings) may increase or decrease, but the dropping fecal content should stay pretty consistent. If the watery droppings are discolored, smell funny, think versus watery, and lack fecal matter, there's likely a problem.

Immediately get rid of the newspaper and put down white, non-printed paper so you can see exactly what is going on. Unprinted newsprint is ok. Very wet droppings for multiple days is a cause to pay attention, especially when there isn't any change in diet to cause it. Get your baby to the vet (now) for a culture to see if anything is going on. It's a non-invasive process, relatively inexpensive, and will clearly identify if there's an issue or not.

Nice to know that it WAS a long story - a short one would have turned out entirely different. Thanks for sharing. Patience and consistency

Go Bob's....good stuff. Human stuff is usually a lot cheaper than bird-specific food.

Do you really need veggies? No. Roudybush is one of the best foods out there and provides all the essentials your grey needs. I use the maintenance and high energy breeder mixes for my greys, and I know the blood test results and health of my birds. So I can say no, you don't "really" need veggies. But (you knew this was coming), providing a wide variety of natural, fresh foods offers more than simple nutrition. Roughage, foraging behaviour, variety of foods, etc, all add to a rich experience for your bird. It's rather like offering your bird a cage, or a cage with toys, natural perches, lighting, etc. Your bird will survive in the cage, but I personally want more for my greys. Don't get caught up in prep, either. Try lacing a large leaf of Kale, romaine lettuce, or other long leafing veggie in and out of the cage bars. Or use one of the food skewers for cages and make a veggie and fruit kabob for your grey. Put some fruit in a paper towel roll with one end pinched closed. I'm sure others will chime in with suggestions.

Thank goodness you didn't kick her off your foot!

Steve, don't be too quick to make any decision other than to continue to be a good caregiver to them. I'm curious, you mention that you moved to a location where it is impossible to let them out more than an hour a day. Look at all the factors that are causing this. And, what can you do there to make it possible for them to be out? I only mention this as usually limits to having an out-of-cage experience for the birds are something I impose on myself - nothing more than a decision I might make. You mention you've been away for awhile and a lot has obviously happened behind the scenes in that time. And you and your birds are making it through it. I know how difficult this can be as I, too, have been away from the forum for a long time while hell broke loose here. But my birds helped me through it and still like me (I'm pretty sure, at least). So think long and hard about the consequences of any decision you might make. Be selfish.