Spinner

I am a bit curious. You said you made sure she had seeds for the night, and then you had her step up and sit with you for the evening. What's with that? If someone put a steak in front of me and then made me go somewhere, I'd be a little nippy, too! Perhaps reversing that, with putting in the seeds after you return is more appropriate. Couple that with a few treats while she's with you will definitely be more favorable for both of you.

Buffy, Were any blood samples taken? Was there a gland infection? Before undertaking any procedure on the gland, I would insist on a full blood panel to determine if indeed there is a vitamin issue. I find it hard to believe that a pellet-raised grey is vit A deficient to the point where it would present a preening gland issue. It also seems very odd to me that both birds would present uropygial gland problems AND to have it caused by a vitamin deficiency. It would be more likely to be a topical infection rather than something systemic. To what extent do the pair share cage, play space, and food? Just some thoughts.

Lyn, The Holee Roller is a favorite of my birds. In fact, I posted a video on youtube last March with Gabi playing with it. She's acting like a grey on crack! This particular roller was played with so much in the cage that the chain broke. But it is so much more fun now, as you can see: It's even more fun to put some tissue paper and nuts inside and watch them try to get to them.

I think that size cage is perfect for a grey. I often recommend something like this http://www.aecageco.com/product.cgi?group=17203&product=17422 , which is a playtop cage that is 32x23 with an internal 30" height, or http://www.aecageco.com/product.cgi?group=17203&product=17432 , which is also a playtop at 36x28 with an internal height of 38". I know others feel that bigger is better, but I've found that my greys like the "snuggability" of these cages. They still allow plenty of toy space and wing-spread room. Of course, my birds are usually out most of the day playing on their stands, so cage size isn't really critical for them.

Zupreem products are fine. Not my first selection, but they are good for your bird. As pellets are typically a small component of your bird's overall food intake (remember the veggies, fruit and nuts), it shouldn't be an issue. Now that Kaleah is going for the Zupreem, you might try transitioning to the Harrison's.

Michelle, I'd suggest a personal taste-testing to see which one you like best. Then get a second opinion from your bird. It seems like my birds want to eat whatever I'm eating

Yes, the pin feathers can be uncomfortable for birds. When moulting, greys really do enjoy neck and head scritches. Try a daily or twice-daily oatmeal bath for Kaleah. Mix a spoonful of the powder in a cup of water, put in a mister, and spray all over (except for the head). It's become a daily ritual for one of my greys who now enjoys it - she even lifts up her wings when I get ready to spray under them. Check local pet stores for colloidal oatmeal products. Drugstores also carry many brands, such as Aveeno. Avitech sells a product called FeatherIn, available at http://www.avitec.com/Feather-In-AntiPick-Treatment-p/fi.htm - also order some of their Aloe spray while there. Any colloidal oatmeal product (without any additives such as moisturizers) will make a big difference. In fact, you can make your own colloidal powder wth a clean coffee grinder and dry oatmeal. Google the net for more info. These products help soothe the skin and soften the feathers. It makes a big difference. I have a grey that "over preens" and this helps tremendously.

Welcome Tamara! I feel that the personality of the individual grey is going to be much more important than whether it's a male or female. You need a grey that is going to match your needs, expectations and personality. Think about whether you want high-energy or low, playful or calm, mischievous, adventuresome, etc. Think about traits that you might want, and then match that as best you can. Glad to see you're doing your homework and research. Whatever you decide, sex- and personality-wise, be sure to find a breeder that will let you visit and interact with your grey long before you take it home. Read through some of the issues (biting, stepping up, cage in/out, etc) and insure your breeder has worked through all of them with your baby. In other words, you want a hand-reared, socialized, and properly trained baby. Ask for references. And, keep asking questions!

A 24" cube is about perfect for a sleep-only cage. It can house the essential food and water bowls along with a couple of toys. Gabi especially likes hers. She has never had the cage door closed but is always found there once the lights go out. As mentioned by FirstPenguin, the King's aluminum travel is a great choice - go for the larger one, which is about 20"x29". The advantage is it can double up as a sleep cage and for travel.

The filter and fan should be about the same size. As mentioned, a 20" box fan works perfectly with a 20"x20" furnace filter. I have one in the bird room that houses five greys, and find it very effective at dust and odor removal (when also using the charcoal filter along with the normal furnace filter).

Yay, Averi! Don't forget to keep track of all her words and phrases in her scrap book.

Harvey's a bad influence.

While you're waiting to go out and buy some new toys, immediately go to your pantry and pull out a cereal box. Take the liner out and put the box in the cage or play area. Instant toy. For even more fun, throw some of the cereal in the box before it gets chewed up. Any colorful food box suitable. Try a box of pasta - just remove any plastic beforehand. Soda bottles with some nuts inside. Bottle caps. Shoelaces. Strips of leather. Stuff. Greys love shiny, colorful magazines to tear apart. Anything that can be shredded is fair game. Go out to the yard and get a few colorful leaves and a stick or two to shred. The message here is you don't have to be extravagant for toys. It's more important to have something to shred apart than themselves.

Awesome! Beak + sticky food = FUN

Lena, The human food-grade palm oil products are excellent for our birds, and typically cheaper. I tasted some and really didn't care for it , but my greys sure love it.

You say you had greys and a macaw before, and now have another grey. And now you are talking to a breeder about a macaw. I feel somewhat compelled to tap you on the shoulder about this one. You briefly mentioned your prior birds in an earlier post, and of course I don't know the details around your earlier birds. I don't need to know the details. What I'm asking is that you take a close look at your prior experience as data points around your current situation. Reemphasizing what Dave007 has said: Make sure this is a good choice for you and the birds. Especially the birds. These are positive, lifetime relationships we are creating. And of course, you and your bird(s) have all of our support regardless of your decision!

I think we're possibly talking about two different symptoms here. Eyes may appear red or have red vessels appearing prominently within the eye (as is shown in the pic in the earlier post). As was said by others, this may be from infection or other internal issue. It may also be from mild trauma to the eye (perhaps like flying into a window). It can be cause for concern and should be examined by a qualified AVIAN vet as soon as possible. The second bleeding issue is appears to be actual blood coming from around the eyes an onto surrounding tissue. It is very light - think of our watery eyes welling up. It usually happens during restraint for a routine procedure such as an exam, nail trim, etc. It is not very common and not all greys exhibit this. If seen during any time other than related to restraint by a qualified handler, it is cause for immediate concern. I have seen this with one of my breeder greys as a regular reaction to gentle handling. As always, if in doubt, always consult a qualified vet. I do!

Dave, Your hot-water in the spice bottle trick is a great solution. Here's another source - I get my red palm oil from Rainforest Market at http://www.rainforestmkt.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RPOIL

This one's ok. They are only dehydrated sweet potatoes with no added products. The nutrition analysis given is spot-on with sweet potato nutrition data. Some highlights for one cup of sweet potato: Sugars 13 g (total Carbs @ 41g) Protein 4 g Calories 180 ...and for Sam's Yams (28g): Sugars 13.6 g Protein 2.1 g Calories 80 I see nothing wrong with a 100% dehydrated natural food, regardless of what/who it's made for. I personally prefer fresh ingredients. Specifically, Sam's Yams are developed as a healthy alternative to the dangerous rawhide products that dogs get. We're looking for nutrition for our birds, not longevity of chewing entertainment (they have toys for that). As has been said, stay away from the junk food, but I do commend you for trying to find various treats to try out. Time to get the fresh veggies (frozen would do, too) and slice up some treats. For peanut butter, try mixing a bit in with fresh vegetables (that you just cut up from the last paragraph ).

Yay Emma! She's quite the poster child for all the good stuff.

As Greywings mentioned, use both. I use both. The water bottles gives an always-available clean supply of water, and the bowls gives them a place to wash their food and take the occasional splash down. I'm changing both once a day.

Stay away from the Powersun - that's the heat-lamp UV bulb. Not suitable for anything but reptiles. ///apologies - I originally typed in Reptisun. I have since edited this post. Powersun is the heat-lamp version\\\

Dishwasher. If it doesn't fit in there, it's not suitable in our household Besides the thorough washing they get with water that is hotter than I care to hand wash with, I think the dry cycle helps to sanitize bowls and their water bottles.

Consider, too, that you had a vet visit last week. Perhaps a shot was given? The stress from a vet visit can upset a bird's system for a bit.

Congrats and honors to you for adopting your grey! And, welcome to the forum. Is bringing him home this weekend that imperative? If you have the option, I would recommend going to his present house and spending many hours just sitting next to the cage and letting him get acquainted. Sitting, not trying to interact or necessarily intruding in his space. Let him come to you if he chooses. The purpose is to let him get used to you in his environment. This "may" help him in the move, as he will have a familiarity with you already. Do this for a couple of weeks and see how it progresses. If you have a laptop, take it with you and browse the forum (especially the stickies) to get much-needed info that will save you and your bird a lot of pain.