chapala

Now I would not let my birds interfere with my dinner! I know others do this willingly though, so it all depends on what you want. The birds do not sit on the table with us - tried that and it is a mess. Occasionally they sit on a stand next to the table, but usually I feed them in their cages, and they eat when we eat, but at their own place. You are in charge, and if something isn't working for you, you need to make changes. Reta

I think 'Tiels are the most susceptible to "night frights" though it can happen to Greys also. We had a small tremor (earthquake) several years ago at night, and Kali fell and thrashed around his cage. He was not covered by the way. Reta

If you have him next to a window, it could be that he has seen something that has made him very frightened. It sounds like he is showing signs of great fear. I would move the cage so that one side is against a wall, and it's no longer next to a window. See what happens, and let us know. Reta

If she bites after awhile of stroking, you may have missed her body language that she had had enough. She may have tried to tell you through shaking her head, moving a bit, slicking her feathers down instead of fluffed. If you didn't notice, she probably thought she had no choice other than to bite in order to communicate with you. If she bites on the step-up, she may not have wanted to step up right then. I often give my Grey bird a choice (unless I need to move him right then), and ask if he wants to come up. If he doesn't, that is fine, and I leave him alone. If he does, that's fine too. Please tell us more about the circumstances and how long you've had the bird, and maybe we can help a bit more. Reta

You might be interested in starting clicker training, all positive methods. Here's a Yahoo forum: http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/Bird-Click/messages I believe they have lots of articles in their file section on trainin, plus can answer specific questions if you post. You may have to join the forum before you can view the files. Reta

Poor little Grey bird. I'm surprised the breeder or pet store didn't let you know there was a problem. Seems like they would have known. Yes, an appt. with an avian vet is important to have her checked out. Then, adapting the cage for a handicapped bird - there are lots of ideas out there on the net, and may even be a yahoo forum. Platforms, wide perches, connected perches since she probably cannot climb the bars. If you can manage it in your home, it might be a good idea to let her become flighted since she can't move around on her legs well. Reta

I don't think he gets too much attention. Parrots are very social creatures, and are with their mates and/or flock members 24 hours a day. So it is natural for him to want to be with you. It sounds like it would be good to socialize him more with other people, taking it slowly since he is so attached to you and possibly fearful of others. It may be a good idea to pass him to other people just for a minute (no attempts by the others to touch him, just hold), praise him and tell him what a great bird he is, and take him back. Keep repeating whenever you can. He will realize that you are not going to abandon him to this stranger (or your boyfriend), and that you will be right there telling him how good he is. Be patient with him, and consistent with having him go to others for very brief times with lots of praise. Like the others above, I also would not let him jump on your shoulder when you walk by his cage. That should be by invitation. If you place him back on the cage or on a playstand, be sure to come back to him in a few minutes if you can, and pick him up, praising him. In other words, give him attention when he is behaving how you want, not jumping on your shoulder. It's up to you to find the opportunities to praise him and give him attention. If you ignore him, he will continue to want to jump on you even if the result is negative. Good luck, and let us know how it goes with your Grey bird! Reta

I grow vegetables for the birds (and for us too) in my small vegetable garden, and besides 2 or 3 kinds of kale, I have collards, dandelion greens (VERY nutritious!), bok choy, arugula, carrot tops, broccoli, plus others at certain times. I even grew a sweet potato for the first time this year that yielded about 25 sweet taters. We're lucky to have a 12 mo. growing season. Reta

They do understand a lot, being the smart Grey birds they are. I say "gentle" to Kali, and he knows what that means - not to use too much pressure with the beak! Reta

Chlamydia and psittacosis are two names for the same disease. Here's a link to more info: http://www.parrottalk.com/chamydia-psittaci.htm Reta

she's doing great! Love to see these photos of flighted Grey birds! Reta

Re the DNA to learn if you have a he or a she, it only costs about $20 from Avian Biotech in Florida. They mail you a sample card, you clip a toenail to get a drop of blood on the card (bird toweled of course), mail it in, and you have your answer in days. The vets charge a lot more if they get the sample and mail it off to the same lab. Judygram is right - you never know whether two parrots will get along, no matter what species they are. A friendly and cuddly bird is one that has been well socialized by a good breeder. Remember though that too much cuddling of babies when they get into their new homes can create behavior problems. They need to learn to be independent too. Cockatoos, the velcro birds, are notorious for serious behavior problems when they mature, especially the males. Reta

Kale and collard greens are both members of the cabbage family, all nutritious vegetables. Kale and collard are different though, not the same vegetable. Both are excellent to feed our birds. I chop my finely as part fo the fresh mix. You also can hang a leaf in the cage, or use a collard leaf (they are large!) to roll up some mash or cooked grains and lentils, like a birdie burrito. Reta

I believe psittacosis is the only disease transmittable between bird and human. And yes, it has been in the news because of the PetsMart birds coming out of Florida breeders just recently. It is treatable with antibiotics. If your bird came from a healthy aviary, he will not be carrying it. If your bird gets sick, you would take him to an avian vet for diagnosis. There are many people who have had parrots years and years, and it's rare to hear of someone who has had this disease. Possible, but not common. Reta

Re the peas, that's fine, just keep adding other vegetables (finely chopped) even though your TAG isn't eating them yet. It often takes birds a long time to decide something is edible. I wouldn't serve the peas by themselves - you are reinforcing to the bird that this is the only edible vegetable. Reta

I would be very careful with the Jack Russels since they are a breed known to have a very strong prey drive. It only takes a second for a dog to kill a bird. I do have our three dogs out with our birds (except the Parrotlet, who is newer and flighted), but did a lot of training with the dogs before I trusted them. A lot. Reta

It is natural for parrots to protect "their area". They protect their nesting sites in the wild. Some do become somewhat territorial around their cages. I like to avoid unnecessary battles, and simply move Kali, my Grey, to a playstand if he's acting like he doesn't want me moving HIS toys around. He will grab my fingers with his beak, doesn't bite, but definitely not happy that I'm taking over his area. I just put him on a playstand and finish up what I'm doing. If your bird isn't stick trained and is acting a bit aggressive, I would suggest that you slowly get him accustomed to a perch/stick using treats and praise, so that it's easy to move him from the top of the cage when you need to without a bite. I would not take his toys away - they need those to occupy themselves. Reta

Is your Grey's cage around all the household activity? That itself would help keep him entertained and feeling part of the family. Some one-on-one attention is needed daily, and after that just being in the same room, talking to him sometimes, etc., is good. A bird who is isolated in a room by himself would not be as happy - these are social creatures. Reta

Ok, so that's how it works. Seems funny because there is that "submit article" area. Well, have to run now, but maybe later I can try to find a Caesarsdad posting so I can pm him. Thanks for the info. Reta

I'm not sure how the articles section works on this site. I posted an article with the above title by Dr. Brian Speer, a well known avian vet. I think just about everyone would learn and benefit from it, and it certainly contains a lot of information to stimulate discussion. Question is how does anyone find it? I found it only after looking in "my content". Reta

They are beautiful! Lovely Grey birds, thanks for the photos. Reta

Most birds seem to take quickly to corn on the cob. I have fed "wheels" (cut slices) raw, sometimes in the dish and sometimes skewered with other vegetable chunks. Just keep in mind that corn is not the most nutritious vegetable, so as a part of a varied diet, just fine. Personally I think a whole ear is too much. A one inch wheel at one time is about right for our Greys. Reta

You are right Blackman. It isn't necessary to cover the cage. But, in some people's homes there may be lights that bother the bird, people walking by at night, etc., and a partial cover can help the bird get its beauty sleep. Also some more skittish birds probably feel more secure in the covered part of a partially covered cage. I sometimes cover my Grey's cage if there's a light I think will bother him. But, I always leave a part uncovered (facing away from any night time light). I like our birds to wake with the natural light and wouldn't want a completely dark cage, not exactly natural. There's a lot of light on moonlit nights in the jungle, I just don't want a light directly in the bird's face. Reta

I have found it helpful especially when converting a bird that has been on seed only to chop the vegetable mixture finely, and mix a small amount every morning with overnight soaked (or sprouted) grains. Chopping very fine is the key so they can't pick out favorites, or using a food processor lightly. It does take time to convert a bird to new foods. They can be pretty set in their ways! Patience and consistently offering the healthy foods is important. Also, don't worry about wasted food. Just keep offering, different vegetables, different forms (as well as finely chopped, try hanging a skewer with vegetable and fruit chunks in the cage, threading large leaves (collards for example) through the bars of the cage, hanging leaves from the top with a clothespin, etc.). They are hungry in the morning and most apt to try new foods then, if you do not leave seed or pellets in the cage at night. Otherwise they'll snack in the a.m. before you feed and not be hungry for the healthy stuff. Reta<br><br>Post edited by: chapala, at: 2007/12/31 23:54

Jean Pattison, the "African Queen", noted Grey breeder, has produced a CD of her breeder birds with natural Grey vocalizations: http://www.afqueen.com/African_Queen.htm.htm I think there's a sample you can listen to on her site. Reta