chapala

"I keep reading that greys should primarily be on a pellet diet. Where im living, in Saudi Arabia, it is impossible to buy. Its slim pickings in the way of parrot food out here. I have a choice of Trill or Vitakraft. I go for the Vitakraft. It seems to have more nutritional value than trill and has bits of dried fruit, some pellets and very little sunflower seeds. Does anyone know if this is good/not good for greys? " It is not necessary to feed pellets in order for your Grey to have a good diet. If you can buy human grade whole grains and legumes, plus fresh vegetables, a few nuts, some fruit and once a week or so, a little protein food, your Grey will be very healthy. It does take more effort than just putting a dish of pellets or seeds in front of them however. If you're interested in feeding a very good diet to your Grey, please check out the files section here: http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/FeedingFeathers/ You may need to join this Yahoo forum in order to read the files. You also can post questions, and the knowledgeable moderators will give you answers. Reta

Greys are less expensive in the U.S. than in Mexico (all parrots except illegally wild caught ones are more expensive here). Greys cost $1,600 to $2,500 U.S. dollars here. When I got Kali from one of the best breeders in Mexico more than 5 years ago, he was $1,400. Prices have gone up since. Reta

Yes, it is very common for our parrots to do that because that's what they do for their mates in the wild. However, it is not a good idea to encourage it. Best to say no thank you, and walk away when your bird is in that mood. In a mature bird (Greys over 4 or 5 years), behavior problems can result from owners acting in ways similar to a mate, and it can lead to frustration for the bird. You know, promising and not coming through You want your bird to consider you a flock member, not a mate. Reta

"Hi, I am new to the forum and am looking for this advice myself. I am thinking about getting a second Grey and was looking into some of the rescue organizations. It seems to me like it might be the responsible thing to do. I've been told it might be a good idea to my baby a "nanny bird" to help her socialize." It's wonderful to be able to give a home to an older bird that needs one - we have two re-homes. Do be prepared though that many second-hand birds come with behavior problems of one kind or another. That doesn't mean they cannot become good pets - they may take more work to gain their trust and overcome issues. And, they may not become the kind of pet you hope for. Also, when getting a second bird as a companion to the first, keep in mind that the two birds may never get along. They do enjoy having another bird to watch and listen to, even if they cannot be close together without fighting, but they might not end up friends. Reta

I started out with a dome top when I first got Kali because that was what I heard recommended most. He loves to go on top of his cage, and guess what? All the poop falls down on the perches and toys. His first cage was 36x24, again because that was what I heard recommended for Greys. He is now in a 48x34 playtop and uses the whole thing! Reta

In addition to the above suggestions, you also might want to join the Parrot BAS yahoo forum: http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/ParrotBAS/ This is Susan Friedman's group - she is a Ph.D. animal behaviorist, and teaches an on-line course in parrot behavior (I was on the waiting list for a year before I took it several years ago). Graduates of her course assist people who post parrot behavior problems, analyze the behavior and come up with positive reinforcement methods to change those behaviors. The files section of the site has lots of information that you might find helpful as well. Good luck! Reta

It's that Greys don't like Teflon, it's that any non-stick cooking surface ('Teflon' or other brand name) will kill them and any other birds by poisonous fumes when heated to around 435 degrees or higher. Like Judy said, they are all individuals, and can be different in their likes and dislikes. My Grey loves toys he can hang or swing from, and I consider a rope boing plus a couple of swings essential for him. He loves to forage for (healthy) treats and food - much more interesting for them than just finding all their food in the bowl. He also loves to shred natural materials like twig balls, adding machine paper, woven palm mats, etc. Untying knots is a favorite, in leather laces (vegetable tanned, bird safe) or Paulie brand (bird-safe) rope. Kali likes new toys pretty regularly, and I make most of them from my stock of parrot toy parts. Reta

Some great suggestions Kat! I agree with everything, except I am not a fan of aloe juice sprayed on the bird, just plain, non-chlorinated water. Adding the flax oil and nuts to the diet does help the skin condition, as does a diet high in nutritious vegetables. Also, a tiny bit of red palm oil (1/4 tsp.) could be added or alternated with the flax oil. Almonds are good too, and I give a few almonds and walnuts daily. The shredding and foraging are both very important for all our Grey birds, pluckers or not. And bringing him with you around the house is also good flock behavior Reta

Most parrots like almonds or walnuts - if you can cut one nut into a few pieces, try walking by her cage and telling her "almond" or whatever and dropping it in her bowl. There has to something she really likes, and the trick is to find it, and no longer feed it in the regular diet, only from you. At first (even for a few weeks) you may have to put in her food bowl, but step by step you can advance to her taking it out of your hand, if she really likes it. Needs to be done every day for her to learn to look forward to it from you. Reta

what a sweet young Grey he is! Looks happy, healthy and well-loved. Congratulations Reta

It sounds like he wasn't handled much or at all with the previous owners. Yes, it's still possible that he will warm up to you, if you let him know you are non-threatening and he feels very secure. Most parrots really want a friend, so that works in your favor. Will he let you scratch his head, or help him with pin feathers? Will he take treats from your hand? Does he come out of his cage? Do you have a playstand for him? Does he talk? Reta

The breeder is extremely important, so spend your time getting information before just buying a baby from anyone who happens to be convenient. At the least, please make sure your breeder "abundantly weans" the babies, no weaning at a certain age ready or not, and that the babies are socialized. Socializing involves more than just syringing food down their throats. The good breeders have happy, healthy babies who have an excellent start at becoming wonderful, well-adjusted pets. I know nothing about the breeder you mentioned, and I don't even live in the U.S., so sorry can't help too much. You might try e-mailing Jean Pattison (the African Queen) in Florida and see if she has any recommendations for breeders in your area. She has an excellent reputation. There are many good breeders, but some really awful ones as well. Good luck finding a wonderful baby Grey bird! Reta Oops! forgot the link: http://www.afqueen.com/<br><br>Post edited by: chapala, at: 2008/01/07 20:25

Have you tried hand-feeding her favorite (healthy) treats? Bribery often works wonders in getting a parrot to think you really are a pretty nice person! Whataever she really likes, whether it's sunflower seeds, almonds, pieces of fruit, remove these items from her food bowl, and stand or sit near her, talking to her, asking if she'd like some. Hand feed her one seed, one small piece of fruit, one little piece of cut-up walnut or almond, etc., at a time. You want to extend the hand-feeding time without getting her diet out of whack. You can offer a little bit several times a day, and I think she will look forward to your visits! Reta

It is okay to feed SMALL amounts of garlic. I occasionally mix in one small clove, very finely minced, into the fresh mix that lasts for 3 days, 3 parrots. So each parrot gets 1/3 of a small clove over 3 days. That amount is fine. I don't feed it all the time, once every few weeks maybe. A whole clove or big chunks, probably not good. Reta

I must say, I agree with you Dan! I was trying to be objective, but I had exactly the same reaction. The site totally turned me off, and the fact that they don't provide any nutritional info on the food was the final negative for me. I'd steer way clear of this company and their product. Reta

Not sure if I understand your question completely - you're saying that your Grey gets upset sometimes when you or others try to pick him up? It could be that you're trying to handle him more than he's comfortable with. They like to have their own quiet time too, not necessarily to be picked up all the time. What I do with Kali (unless I must move him right then, to put him in his cage before we leave for instance) is ask if he wants to come up. If he doesn't respond, that's fine, he doesn't want to right then, and I will let him be. If he does want to, he lifts his foot and steps up. His choice. I find that these Grey birds like to make at least some of their own decisions, and when we can give them opportunities to do that, I think they feel more independent and possibly happier. Now, when I need to move him, I don't ask, I say "Kali, up!", and he comes right up. He knows the difference. Reta

I would avoid all refined grains, so anything made from white flour, white rice or degerminated cornmeal is not on the list. Parrots (actually like people!) should have natural, unrefined, whole grains. The crackers you mention are fortified with vitamin and mineral levels for humans, not birds, and the reason it's fortified is because it's made from white flour. I do know some people ocasionally feed organic, jarred baby foods without sugar, salt, iron, to their parrots. Like winter squash or something similar. If you can find a natural cereal made from whole grains and unsweetened (usually from a natural foods store), those can be added to a dry mix. My parrots never have liked them, but some might. Best to keep food in its simple and natural state (other than cooking food that needs it) for the parrots. Reta

I looked on the site and read lots of testimonials but very little about the food. It sounds like it is mostly dehydrated vegetables, grains and legumes. There are a few items I wouldn't feed on the following list of ingredients: 'The Avian Miracle Diet' "Ingredients: Kale, Collard Greens, Turnip Greens, Mustard Greens, Dandelion Greens, Parsley, Broccoli, Cauliflower, All types of Chard, Leeks, Water Cress, Ginger Root, Cinnamon, Bok Choy, Celery, Carrots, Sweet potatoes, Peas, Corn, Field Corn, Lima beans, Green Beans, Yellow squash, Zucchini squash, Acorn Squash, Butternut Squash, Hubbard Squash, Jicama, Cranberries, Oat Groats, Navy beans, Brown Rice, Barley, Pinto Beans, Yellow Split Peas, Green Split Peas, Small Red Beans, Buckwheat, Lentils, Pasta, Basil, Oregano, Dill, Garlic, Tomatoes, Cabbage, Red Cabbage, Schizandra Berries, Parsnips, Turnips, Beet Greens, Carrot Greens, Okra, RoseMary. These ingredients are based on seasonal availability. Most of them are available year round. You can count on at least 45 ingredients being used in The Avian Miracle Diet each and every time." The foods I wouldn't feed to my birds include field corn, leeks, navy, pinto and red beans, and pasta if it's from refined white flour. The other ingredients look okay, and maybe for someone who doesn't have or take the time to prepare fresh food, it might be useful. Personally I feel that fresh food is absolutely the best, and feed grains, legumes, vegetables, fruits, and a few nuts to my birds. A 5 lb. bag costs $40 plus $10 shipping, so $50 which I believe it said would last a medium size bird one month fed once a day (?). Nowhere that I could find on the site is any nutritional breakdown of the protein, fat, carbohydrate, etc. of the food. Very little information, mostly testimonials. Reta

It's not always easy to figure out what causes plucking, and once it becomes a habit it can be very hard to change. Some birds that have been force weaned or at least not abundantly weaned may be more prone to plucking. It may have a genetic component. You have ruled out physical causes. Some behavioral pluckers are possibly bored, stressed or fearful. You say your bird is shaking - is the house warm enough? A plucked bird no longer has all his feathers to keep warm. Is something scaring the bird? Some birds may have a food allergy (soy, peanuts, wheat or something else). There is a plucker's diet on Feeding Feathers Yahoo forum in their files section if you want to try eliminating foods to see if it helps. Others have mentioned shredding toys, foraging, keeping the bird busy. Is he alone a lot? Do you have other pets, other people in the house? Reta

Parrots often bond to one person in the family. It sounds like your family's Grey has bonded to your dad. Instead of you or your brother trying to touch her (she won't like that, and it may encourage her to start biting if you keep trying), see if you can be the favorite treat person. Offer her an almond or other favorite (healthy) treat by hand, and talk to her. Be the one who carries her to your dad (maybe on a stick if she won't step up on your hand.) Be the helpful flock mate. That's probably the level she wants to be on with you, no more. She can learn to accept you as part of the flock, but may only let your dad be the one who can scritch her head and be affectionate with her. This is completely normal for parrots. They are not like dogs who can love everyone in the family equally. If you want a bird bonded to you, how about getting a nice, hand-raised 'Tiel or other bird that will be affectionate with you? Reta

The germinating process begins starting as soon as you soak the seeds overnight, and nutritional changes (for the better) begin occuring after just 10 or 12 hours of soaking. So, you can feed a grain mix of at least 4 or 5 different ones - red millet, white millet, wheat berries (or kamut or spelt), oat groats, raw buckwheat, quinoa, hulless barley (not pearl which is refined and will nto sprout). I also add some hulled sunflower seeds, and canary seed. Just mix them up, keep them in a jar, take out a small amount (I do 1/4 cup at a time), rinse well in a strainer, then place in small bowl or cup. Cover with water, leave overnight, drain in strainer, rinse, let drain a bit and then feed. Any extra can be kept in the frig after it dries out a little more (not sopping wet, but not completely dry) in a small, covered container. VERY easy, and nutritious - the fat content goes down and other nutrients go up as the germinating occurs. After the overnight soak and first feeding that morning, you can continue to sprout the grain mix a little longer. Grains and seeds are best when just the tip of a root shows, not long tails as in legumes. For birdie breakfast, I mix the soaked grains with fresh vegetable mix and sprouted legumes - those need to sprout so that they have at least 1/4 to 1/2" tails (roots). Grains can be fed after overnight soaking, not legumes. The best legumes to sprout (most digestible, no toxins) are mung, lentil, whole pea, adzuki and garbanzo. Best to avoid others such as kidney, pinto, navy, lima, etc. About twice the amount of grains should be fed as legumes. Reta

I'm not a hand-feeder, but have read that the bird will begin to refuse the last feeding. At that point, when he no longer wants the formula, he is weaned. Just continue to introduce lots of chopped fresh vegetables (raw), a little fruit, a soaked grain mix and soaked and cooked legumes. Thay way, he will be a great little eater! Reta

Sounds like you may have an insecure baby on your hands (6 mos. is still a baby). Do you have a portable playstand so he can be near you instead of just on/in the cage? I'm guessing the squawking (unusual) is a sign of anxiety. If so, I think he needs reassurance, although obviously you want to reward the behavior you want repeated. Whatever you do, try not to admonish him in any way for the squawking, and give him lots of attention when he's making happy noises or quiet. Try sitting and reading out loud next to him, giving him treats (when he's quiet) by hand when he's on a playstand or his cage, etc. Reta

I think it depends on your climate (not too drafty by the window), and your bird (bold and confident, or scared when he sees things moving outside). Sometimes keeping one corner of the cage covered so that he has a place to retreat can help them feel more secure when in an open area, including next to a large window. Try it and watch your bird. His body language will tell you if he's comfortable there. Reta

A very bad idea for them to take the bird home for a visit. Either it's your bird now, or it's their bird. Can't be both - too confusing for the bird going back and forth. Hope it works out that you get full possession of this Grey, then no more worries! Reta