chapala

Are the problem feathers just on his head and neck? I'm asking because that's the place he can't reach and must rely on a bird or human friend to help break up the sheaths on the new feathers there. I have seen on a Greenwing Macaw feathers sheaths on her head that turned very hard, and the feathers weren't able to come out in the right form because no one helped her with preening. Do you gently break the tips off the new feathers (when they're not still too tender)? Then as the new feather loses it's blood supply, you can help break up the sheath all the way down the feather. Hope that might help! My Grey fledged as a baby, but the breeder clipped way too many feathers just before he sent him off to me. I waited a very long time for the primaries to grow back in, more than six months. So I wouldn't worry that the flight feathers haven't been molted out yet. Greys by the way only need the outer four primary feathers clipped (an occasional bird might need 5), not all of them. They are heavy bodied birds, and don't need as many feathers clipped as Macaws, 'Tiels, etc. To be safe and not fall and break their keel, they need to be able to glide downwards on those wings, not fall like a rock. Reta

Good advice by Kllorio! Bribery can work wonders, and handfeeding special treats is a good way to change the way a parrot thinks about a person. However, if he decided so quickly on the man, he may never be overly friendly with the woman. He might have been bonded to a man in his first home. My Grey is much better with women than he is with men, for example. I would suggest that your wife not "accept" or "take" the bite. That only encourages the bird to bite more and harder since she didn't seem to understand the first time what he was trying to communicate. He does not want her to attempt petting him, that is very clear and needs to be respected. It is much better to avoid the bite by not provoking the bird, and invading his space. Take it slowly since the bird has just come to your house. Let him settle in and get relaxed in the new home and with you, the new people. At some point (and it does not need to be this week), you should be able to hand the bird to your wife, taken him back, praise him, treat him, and do it regularly, until she can hold him, carry him. But my thoughts are that you should never expect a parrot to accept pets if the bird has chosen not to want that from any particular person. They are very different from dogs in that they usually do not want physical contact except with their favorite. Congratulations on the new member of your family! Reta

Just a clarification - I think everyone is talking about millet sprays here? Red and white millet also is available as a grain (just the seeds), and it's a great addition to an overnight soak mix of grains and seeds. Also hulled millet can be bought at natural foods stores in the bins, and it's an excellent cooked grain. I often use it as a part of the grains in my cooked grain/lentil/sweet potato mix that I make and freeze in 2 to 3 day packages. Reta

Millet is a nutritious, low fat grain and is fine to feed as PART of a varied, healthy diet. The all important Vit. A is missing in grains as is complete protein, and your bird needs fresh vegetables (especially the dark green and orange kinds), and some fruit, in addition to other grains (wheat, oats, quinoa, buckwheat, barley, kamut, spelt), soaked and cooked legumes (especially lentils and mung beans, easier to digest) a few almonds, and once a week a small bit of protein food - cooked egg, small piece of grilled chicken or salmon. Reta

I make most of our birds' toys, and have a lot of toy parts to choose from. I like refillable toys, like the SS "fun rings" (Rose's Pet Emporium and other places carry them) and skewers. You just slide on a variety of toy parts, and hang it up. Quick and easy. You can get toy ideas lots of places, by looking around bird toy companies web sites for one. There are some good ideas in the Parrot Enrichment Actvitiy Book (on-line). Click near the bottom right corner to download this book: http://www.companionfids.com/ Happy toy making! Reta

No problem at all! Questions are good. I just felt like I was repeating myself, not at all critical of the question! Reta

If the bird is biting you, you are not listening to what she is trying to tell you - "don't touch me". Birds are not like dogs, and do not like to be petted, touched or stroked by various people. Usually only by one favorite person. She may never accept touching by you, and you will have to accept the amount of handling she is willing to tolerate from you. Giving treats, maybe step ups, moving from place to place. It sounds like she has decided on a favorite person (your dad). Please do not force yourself on her by attempting to handle or touch her when she clearly doesn't want that. All she can do is bite to communicate with you since the body language signals she has given have not been noticed. Reta P.S. - "taking" bites only encourages the bird to bite more and harder, since clearly the person still doesn't get the message. It is much better to avoid whatever you're doing to cause the bite.<br><br>Post edited by: chapala, at: 2008/01/17 16:22

Same answer I just gave yesterday - in my opinion, the safety of the bird in your own situation is the critical factor. If you can keep your bird safe from both hazards and from escaping, then yes, I do believe it's better for birds to be flighted. They are designed to fly. I would love to let my Grey's wings grow out, but in our situation, cannot do it safely. I would rather clip him, than lose him. Reta

Just my opinion, but real food is healthier and more interesting to parrots than processed pellets. They thrive on a lot of fresh vegetables, especially the ones high in beta-carotene which is converted to the all-important Vit. A. Parrots are slow to change their food habits, and often people give up - it takes perserverance to change a bird's diet. What I suggest you try is mix up several grains (human quality from a natural foods store) like wheat berries (or spelt or kamut), oat groats, hulless barley (not pearl), quinoa, raw buckwheat, and you can add hulled sunflower seeds. Canary seed and red and white millet will need to be purchased at a feed store probably, or on-line. Mix up 4 to 6 different grains/seeds, take out 2 Tbs. (for one Grey), rinse in a strainer, place in a cup or bowl and then soak overnight in water. Drain and rinse in the morning, let it dry off a bit, then feed some to your bird, starting with a small amount mixed into a familiar food, chopped vegetables would be ideal. These grains and seeds have started the germination process and are lower in fat (grains are low anyway) and higher in nutrition than when fed dry. The leftover soaked grains can be allowed to dry a bit more, then refrigerate in a covered container. They will keep for 3 days. Or, you can leave them in a strainer set over a bowl, rinse a couple of times during the day, and they will continue to sprout, being at peak nutrition when you can first see tiny "tails". Either way is healthy and good. Have you ever tried cooked, mashed sweet potato (plain, nothing added)? If he doesn't like it right away, just mix a little into a food he does like, gradually increasing the amount. I can give you lots more diet ideas if you're interested! Reta

"chapala you apparently have no idea how this bird is with us lol. She had a very rough flight to get to me and this was months ago, but she's still trying to get over it. TO take her in the bathroom or any other room is just a big no no with her and the flighted thing lol she is clipped but can still fly, that is another long story lol. But I will try gradual thanks!" Hi Ronda, no, I'm not familiar with the story of how you got your Grey, how friendly or scared she is in her everyday life. But the fact that it sounds as though she is still making an adjustment to your home after some kind of traumatic experience, I would back off even more on the spraying that is scaring her. She needs to feel secure in your home more than anything else right now, and upsetting her by spraying when she clearly is afraid or doesn't like it, I don't think is the right direction to go now. When she feels secure and the two of you have developed a bond of trust is when you can begin encouraging her to expand her horizons on the bathing issue (and others). In the meantime, maybe you could put a larger water bowl in the cage where she actually can get a bit wet? I have a pretty big SS bowl on a ring in the aviary, and Kali will hop into that. Reta

If I could be sure my Grey (and Macaw) would be safe, I would love to have them flighted. I think that is the deciding factor, safety comes first. We have an indoor/outdoor lifestyle in our tropical climate, and it simply would not work with our set-up to have the big birds flighted. The Parrotlet is flighted; mainly he flies in one room where his cage is (usually right to me!), and I take him around other places (like outdoors for a bit of sun) in his cage. I can close the door, and lock the dogs out when he's flying around. Everyone knows when the door is closed, the parrotlet is on the loose. So, that's what I suggest you think about. A Grey flying free also can do a lot more damage than a little Parrotlet to possessions, something else to think about! Good luck with your decision and your new baby Grey! Reta

The problem of course is the bacteria that we humans have in our mouths can make the birds sick (gram negative vs. gram positive bacteria). So it is something to discourage. Many birds are interested in teeth and mouths, but it's up to us to remember what the hazards are. Reta

Try to make the spraying something fun, at least you pretend it's fun! After a couple of years of putting up with showers, Kali now asks for one - want a shower? I use a very fine mist, spray overhead and let it fall like a gentle rain, all the while saying very enthusiastically, "good shower!" "wow! shower!", etc. I really wouldn't worry about getting her completely wet at this point as much as gradually getting used to the showering process. I would stop after 30 seconds in the beginning, increasing as she acts more comfortable or at least less distressed. The more you go after her and keep spraying, the more she is going to hate it. Don't worry about under her wings, her head, etc. right now. You are trying to get her used to showering, and going slowly is the best way. Just let the fine mist fall down on her back. If she's not flighted you can put her on a stand. Keep it short, keep it enthusiastic, keep it fun. Personally I use only plain, non-chlorinated water, not aloe vera juice. Water to me is the natural substance their feathers are meant to receive, rainfall or splahing in puddles. Kali now fluffs his feathers up when he asks for a shower, and then the water can go between the feathers and get him wet. If the feathers are clamped down tight, the water is just going to roll off. So, try going very slowly and getting her used to it. Two or three times a week is good. You also can take her in the bathroom when you are showering, and just let her sit on a stand or on the rod and have that extra humidity. Kali does NOT like the human shower, and I don't make him shower there. We do misting or he jumps in a bowl. Reta

If he's acting differently right after you got a new cuckoo clock and put it near his cage, yes I do think you should move either the cage or the clock. It quite easily could be frightening to your bird. Reta

Hope he continues to learn about staying off the other bird's cage. They can hurt each other as you know, and it really isn't safe. If he continues and you're concerned you may want to clip him a bit more. if he flies to the cage, he is not clipped enough (unless you want a flighted bird, in which case, why clip?). Usually Greys require the first four primaries cut so that they still have a nice glide down but can't gain elevation. Some very strong birds might need 5 feathers clipped. Kali used to be fixated on our Macaw's cage, and always wanted to climb it (with her in it). He is clipped. I told him countless times he couldn't do that, and would put him back in his cage. Nothing seemed to work. The Macaw bit his toe one day - fortunately not a bad bite but one that hurt for several days. They easily can lose a toe to a bite like that. From that day at least two years ago, Kali does not climb the cage anymore, lucky for me. I'm not suggesting that route, but that's just what happened here! Reta

Yes, wait until you get him home. It's natural for him to prefer the hand-feeder he associates with positive things adn is more familiar with. When he comes to your home, you will be the one providing food and handling, and he will start warming up to you. Generally, we have to earn a parrot's trust and affection. It isn't given automatically. So be patient, and I think you will be well rewarded! Reta

I know it's a hard decision either way. You need to do waht you feel is best in your situation. It's easy for us to say what WE would do, but we are not you. You are the one to make this tough decision so that it works out best for you and your bird. If you are going to place him, and it's okay to cross post, can you tell me what you're asking for the bird and cage, and what kind of cage you have. Also, if there are any behavioral problems or not. Then, if you pm me your e-mail address, I will post on another forum about your bird. The more you can tell me about him (is he DNA'd?), personality, talking, etc., the better. Good luck with whatever you decide. If there's any way I can help (even though I'm in Mexico!), let me know. Reta

I'm not familiar with the brand, which doesn't mean anything. How much are you feeding? Greys are supposed to get no more than 1/4 tsp a day. If that's what you're feeding, try giving a quarter of that to start with. Whatever amount that your bird doesn't seem to notice in the food. Then gradually increase it to the recommended amount. Hope that works! I have the Safari brand that I got from Drs. Foster Smith, but they no longer sell it. I have heard that some people had problems ordering directly from Safari. There are other good brands available. Reta

If you do the DNA sample card yourself, it's about $20, well worth knowing for sure! Avian Biotech in Florida will send you the sample card on request. You have to cut a toenail a bit short and put a drop of blood on the card (bird toweled, of course!). Vets charge far more, and send it off to the same lab. There is also a lab in California that provides the service. You can pluck several feathers also from the breast area (not molted feathers) - instructions are included when you ask for the sample kit. I prefer to cut the toenail rather than pluck several feathers. Reta

You're welcome Nychsa! Glad to hear your Bella is enjoying some new healthy items, great news. I'm always happy to pass on any little help so parrots might have a healthier, happier life Reta

"He gets a nice variety of greens, veggies, fruits and nuts. He also like oatmeal and occasionaly, a few cheerios. He loves cheese but I only let him have a tiny bit. He loves scrambled eggs hard boiled eggs. He gets those about once or twice a week." I just would suggest that you feed him grains (overnight soaked are great because they start to germinate and have more nutrition, like sprouts). You can buy whole grains at a natural foods store - wheat berries(or kamut or spelt), red and white millet, oat groats, hulless barley (not pearl), quinoa, raw buckwheat (not toasted, won't sprout), and amaranth. You also can add some seeds like hulled sunflower. Mix together and soak a small amount - for just one bird, maybe 2 Tbs. overnight. Rinse, drain and feed in the morning. The extra can be drained more so it's not dripping wet, then kept in the frig. for a couple of days in a sealed container. Great nutrition when added to fresh vegetables, some cooked legumes like lentils, cooked sweet potato, a little fruit, etc. Reta

No, this bird needs to see a vet. Don't wait. A clean cat carrier makes a fine travel cage. Just my opinon, but I think your morning food has way too much fruit, both fresh and dried (high sugar). Best to feed an overnight soaked grain mix (wheat berries, oat groats, quinoa, millet, amaranth, hulless barley - not pearl, etc.). Just soak overnight, rinse and drain in the morning and feed, mixed with chopped or thawed frozen vegetables (check salt content on those). They need more vegetables than fruit in their diet. A small amount of fresh fruit daily is good, but three times that much vegetable. Plus grains, maybe cooked lentils, sweet potato is great. Hope your bird is okay when you get him checked out. Let us know! Reta

In the aviary, there's a larger water bowl than the one in the cage, and mostly he has a Lixit water bottle anyway. I would say every other time Kali is out in the aviary, he "bathes" in that bowl. Still too small of course, but he has fun! I lured him into a big Pyrex baking pan over about a week by putting almonds and little toys in the water. He'll do that about once a month. Reta P.S. - tried to post a photo and it wouldn't post Can't post jpg files?<br><br>Post edited by: chapala, at: 2008/01/13 22:03

Pellets aren't necessary for a healthy diet as long as you offer whole grains, some legumes, vegetables, a little fruit, a few nuts and occasionally some protein food (once a week is fine, scrambled or hard boiled egg, small piece of grilled chicken or fish). That's great that he's eating vegetables and fruits well. Be sure to emphasize the more nutritious ones. You may want to try overnight soaking of a whole grain mix, which can be fed in the morning after rinsing and draining or can continue sprouting for another 12 to 24 hours. Also, I think I posted my cooked grain/lentil/sweet potato mix recipe here, and that is also good to feed once a day mixed with fresh vegetables and/or sprouts. Reta

It's my understanding that apple seeds are not very toxic, not something you would want to feed, but still, probably not a thing to worry about. Glad your bird seems to be fine! Reta