Dave007

Disagreement is what makes for interesting conversations. That should be happening here much more often. But I'll forgive you.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/01/20 20:53

There's a big difference concerning right and wrong with animals. The animals that don't know right from wrong are the wild animals. Parrots are wild animals, will always be wild animals and right and wrong hasn't been instilled as far as behavior goes. That can only happen if we interfere in their natural traits which I hope will never happen to parrots or othe wild animals. Any human words that a parrot will say come from human beings and those words are said in assocation with actions from the owner. Some parrots have the ability to put words together which seems to match a present situation. Greys aren't the only birds that do that. Animals that do understand right from wrong are domesticated. At one time there were wolves and in a pack there was no right or wrong. The members of the pack simply followed a routine that was put into place by an alpha wolf. If a wolf strayed from that routine the rest would put it in place. This type of behavior happened most frequently during feeding time. Through years and years of man's interference concerning the breeding of certain other animals eventually cause an animal who finally understood right from wrong but these same animals lost the ability to return to the wild. This same type of routine happens with other animals in the wild such as elephants, members of the feline groups, reptiles and others. It's been said over and over that a wild animal such as a parrot can't be punished because they simply don't know they did wrong. What makes them react badly to people is the fact that people aren't acting like how the members of a flock would behave in the wild in certain situations. If a wild animal actually knew right from wrong it would eventually stop doing things that annoy owners. The reason that that doesn't happen is because parrots are creatures of habit and repetition. A bird will eventually repeat something that's being said or at the time it's occuring or just before it's occuring or just after it's occurred. If a bird climbs out of a cage and decides to walk down to the floor and you spot the bird doing this just as it's starting it's descent, you go over to the bird and put the bird back in the cage while saying something like( hypothetically) * Oh no, back to the cage*, eventually, that bird will do the exact same thing but there will be a small difference---the bird will immediately repeat what the person says at the start of the descent making it much easier for a person to spot that behavior. Does the bird know it's doing something wrong? A trait that they are familiar with--fear. They will stay away from whatever made them fearful be it at home or in the wild for a short amount of time, but that bird will never apologise. It simply goes back into it's routine. A domestic animal will apologise and try to get back into the person's good graces. If words are done in the question mark fashion such as * do you want some oatmeal?*, eventually the bird associates the sound of boiling water and repeats the same thing in the question form knowing that the next step is getting oatmeal. If a well taken care of parrot spots an opening through a door or window, that parrot is gone even if the person has told the parrot over and over that going to that window is bad. Does the bird know it's doing something wrong? The overpowering natural instinct of the bird is pulling him towards the outdoors. Breeding the wild out of a bird hasn't yet happened. If a person has a dog that gets out and takes off, that person has a much better chance of getting that dog back because it's now in an environment that's uncomfortable and will be nearby. That's because it's been bred out of them. Look at a german shepherd and a wolf--very similar dogs. That wolf can never become a cadaver or drug sniffing animal even if a person has actually managed to get a wolf as a puppy and raised it. We have the ability to look into an animal's face and think we can read it's feelings. It's only us that can do that with a wild animal.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/01/20 20:12

Soft water--fine Decent drinkable tap water--fine Distilled water---fine Stay away from water has has heavy amounts of calcium in it. Normally that type of water comes from wells that aren't taken care of by the county or water department. But you would know what that type of water is just by tasting it. It also smells.

I'll try to give you some answers and explanations although they won't be in the order that you asked it in. 1---no one can decrease the amount of dander that a Grey or TOO has. It will always be there and it will always be messy. But people do a worse thing by increasing the amount of dander that's on a bird. That comes from dry skin, rooms that have low humidity, being near heating vents etc plus of course, the minimal amount of bathing. Dander is not dust as you think of dust. Part of it is very light weight and part is very heavy. """I don't see dander on my cloths or anywhere else. I usually only see things fly when she is preening and does some shaking during/after the preening. If she had bad dander wouldn't I be able to see it on my clothes?"""" No you wouldn't unless you laid down your clothing near the bird and not disturb that clothing. The heaviest concentrations are on and in the cage and the surrounding areas near the cage. You'll also see it on nearby furniture that's somewhat close to bird's living area. The much lighter dander is still heavier than dust and will float farther but will also drop onto something that's stable but much more quickly than normal dust does. In your special situation, it's important that your bird be in an enclosed room. That's the only way any type of purifier will work. having air being pulled to the purifier from all outside areas doesn't allow that machine to work properly. When a person purchases a purifier, there's specific measurements on the box that explain how big an area that particular machine can cover. Those measurements apply to enclosed rooms. Different size machines mean different sized rooms. Ywes a purifier can work to some extent but you should really get an inexpensive humidifier for that bird room. Drug stores sell them for between $35 to $50. They're the type that can have Vicks mixed in with water or just water alone. Purifier/ Birdroom.----There is no purifer out there that will purify a bird room. Other rooms that have normal floating dust? Yes the machine will work on that type of dust but that dust isn't dander. These machines simply act as vacuums and pull in light particles/dust that eventually get close to the machine. The only dust that a purifier will pull in is the type that stays afloat in the air without falling.That type of dust is located in every other room that doesn't have a bird in it. When a grey flaps it's wings, dander can be seen coming off the bird but most of it is heavy and simply falls down. Any lighter dander stays afloat a little while longer but also falls much more quickly than normal dust does. If you compare the feel of regular dust and bird dander, you'll see that the dander feels different because there's a microscopic amount of oil in it which protects the bird's external feathers. That's why a grey has waterproof feathers which makesit even more important that when you bathe him, your focus should be on all the feathers that aren't waterproof. There's a better percentage of that lighter dander getting grabbed by the machine if the room is enclosed and outside dust from other rooms doesn't mix in. One way to help keep the heavier dander close to the bird is by spraying him every day with water but the reason is to simply wet the external dander on the body which will cause that dander to fall straight down when the bird flaps. """""Pumpkin doesn't appreciate getting wet. She will let me wet her feet and her front a little bit but that's it. I usually steam her about 30 minutes. Is that as effective as a bath?""""" No it's not. The area which the dander comes from is located on the skin of the body. The bird constantly preens and pulls and scratches those areas and eventually, the dander works it's way up to the outer feathers. You need to take a different approach concerning bathing. The easiest way to start off is by using a mister and misting and squirting the bird in between the wings and the body. You'll need to get close to the bird, he'll be squawking, nipping at you and the mister. That mister should be no farther away than 15 inches. Stop for a second and let him bite the mister and then continue. This process should take you at least 20 minutes to complete and as time goes on the bird eases up and gets used to it. The more you do it, the quicker he'll get used to it. Soft supple skin doesn't create as much dander as quickly as dry skin. 80% of greys don't like bathing and in your situation you need to take a more aggressive attitude because people's health is involved. Dogs/cats---both have dander and that dander is being kicked up into the air by people's feet and animal's feet. I won't comment on the machine you're referring to. If it were me I would consult my specialist and asks what he/she suggests.

Sexing a grey according to the markings on a tail turns out to be very unaccurate and that type of guessing can't really be done until the bird is entering adolescent maturity which is 3yrs and older. As Judy says, DNA is the way to go for 99% accuracy but as you said, it isn't important. Loads of people here have greys and they aren't sure of the gender

No problem

Hi I'm not familiar with tetra powder. As far as the cut..usually, a cut like that will heal up but usually they'll be a small permanent scar and feathers may not grow from that small area. That type of cut when healing does scab up. The longer the scab is there, the tougher the skin gets in that area. If it still has a scab on it, then that's good. The scab will eventually shrivel and fall away in small tiny pieces. For your piece of mind, since these accidents that are causing the problems come when the bird is in the cage, you should put a towel in the bottom of the cage to ease the the shock of a fall. It may get messy cause the bird will be pooping on it buit I think you'd be doing the right thing. If you continue to have problems with the wound as far as reopening, you can ask your vet to apply a mesh netting around the bird to keep the skin from flexing in that area.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/01/19 03:39

If he's his same old self and it's not actually ON or IN the nostril then leave it alone. Greys can get rough and bruise themselves. It usually heals up by itself.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/01/18 17:49

Two guys are playing golf -- a Japanese and American. The Japanese man, getting ready to tee off, begins talking into his thumb. The American says, 'What are you doing?' The Japanese man says: 'Oh, don't worry. With microtechnology, I have a microphone inserted in my thumb. I was just recording a message.' The two men go on playing golf. All of a sudden, the American man makes a funny sound that sounds amazingly like a fart. The Japanese man looks over at him. 'Oh,' says the American. 'Don't worry, I'm just receiving a fax.

Casper, only you could think of this truly deep topic. Is it exciting in the UK? TELL YOU WHAT!!! LETS PUT A STINKY ON IT

Well Dan, I can only say this..your dogs are extremely unusual. It must be the breed. Imagine!! Vocalizing from both ends!!! Absolutely amazing. Stereophonic Dobermans with surround sound<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/01/17 23:25

Aspergillosis in birds is an infection by a mold found in the air, in the soil, in animal feeds, and especially in animal bedding. In nature, this fungus derives its nutrition from decaying plant and animal material. Aspergillus is considered infectious, capable of growing inside a living animal. It is generally not considered contagious, however, since most birds pick it up from their environment. The mold is known as an opportunistic invader, causing disease only under special circumstances. Infection generally occurs when the bird inhales airborne mold spores. If this inhaled dose is high enough to overwhelm the immune system, the bird becomes ill. A bird with a weakened immune system does not require a very high dose of spores. Stressors such as a new cage, moving to a new home, boarding, a new pet in the home can suppress the immune system. Prolonged illness, traumatic injuries, smoke inhalation (cigarettes), and treatment with immunosuppressive drugs will also lead to immunocompromise. Nutrition is paramount in preventing illnesses such as aspergillosis. An inadequate dietary level of vitamin A will cause a change in the mucus membranes and respiratory tract lining, weakening the front line of defense against infection. Deficient levels of zinc, vitamin C, vitamin E; B vitamins in the body can lead to an inadequate immune response and reduce resistance to disease. Finally, when antibiotics are not used properly, or if they are given for an extended period of time, the defenses against aspergillosis wane. Two forms of aspergillosis are recognized, namely the acute from and the chronic form. The acute from is uncommon, and is usually found in wild birds or pets kept under unsanitary conditions. If occurs following exposed to an overwhelming number of mold spores, such as when ground corncobs get wet and moldy. The lungs and airsacs are rapidly colonized by a massive amount of mold. With this form a bird might lose it’s appetite, drink excessively, urinate excessively, have difficulty breathing, or exhibit a bluish discoloration to the skin. It could die without any sign of illness. The chronic form, on the other hand, is more common. These birds have a weakened immune system, and the infection can even enter the bloodstream where it travels to other organs. Birds that are chronically infected with Aspergillus show a variety of respiratory signs, including a runny nose, swollen face, inability to exercise, respiratory click, or a reluctance to talk or vocalize. They may have a lack of appetite and lose weight. Birds might have diarrhea or increased urination. Often birds with chronic aspergillosis are depressed and lethargic. Often discoloration of the urates can occur, and some birds behave strangely or even have seizures. When veterinarian suspects that your bird might have aspergillosis, a variety of diagnostic tests may be employed to establish a diagnosis. The white blood cell count is frequently elevated, and enzymes may be released from tissues damaged by the infection. Some birds become anemic. Radiographs (X-rays) can show the location of abscesses, changes in the respiratory tract, or other signs of disease. An examination through the lenses of a rigid endoscope will allow direct visualization of the airsacs and abdominal organs, and will provide the opportunity to collect biopsy samples for culture and microscopic analysis. In recent years, accurate tests have been developed to detect the presence of Aspergillus in the bloodstream, and the immune response to it. Inflammatory proteins can also be evaluated in the blood, giving further evidence that the bird is fighting infection. Once the diagnosis is confirmed, treatment is initiated to begin control of the fungus. In the initial stages, nursing care may be the most important part of treatment. Sick birds require warmth, humidity, proper nutrition, and plenty of fluids. Medications target the fungal infection, but often antibiotics are also used to fight or prevent concomitant bacterial infections that are common in these patients. Nebulization is sometimes used to humidify the airways and deliver topical doses of medicine deep into the respiratory system. Treatment can include surgery to debrief and cleanse the areas where pus, fungus, and debris have collected. In most cases, medications must be given for several months since it is the birds immune system that is responsible for cleanup while the medications simply hold the infection in check. In order to protect a bird from infection by Aspergillus, it is important to keep stressors to a minimum. Birds do well when they are brought up learning that changes are a normal part of life, and when the home environment provides clear, consistent, loving guidelines. Of course, proper nutrition is key to the health of all animals. A varied diet based on a high quality pelleted ration is recommended. Birds eating this way get sick less frequently than those one seed based diets. Since the Aspergillus fungus grows readily in moist, dirty environments, one must provide good ventilation and keep the cage and surrounding area very clean. For veterinarians, one way to prevent infection is to routinely prescribe antifungal agents when avian patients are on extended courses of antibiotics or are otherwise immunocompromised. At Niles Animal Hospital and Bird Medical Center, both have a very good success rate in treating birds with the chronic from of aspergillosis. It is important, however to obtain a diagnosis and begin treatment as early in the course of disease as possible. One the infection has progressed, it can be very difficult if not impossible, to return a bird to health. Some birds do relapse, too, giving the fungus another opportunity to take their life.

Health wise, 2 hrs are all they need. If your breeder said more are needed then do that. PS--it's got nothing to do with whether they like it or not. Many birds don't have any UV lighting and they're doing ok.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/01/17 00:28

At the most, 2 hrs.

I assume that you're really kidding about this *wondering if I spend enough time* relationship with your bird, right? As far as riding around, some people can't keep their birds on their shoulders because of aggression or simply because they don't like having a bird on their shoulders. So, it really means very little as far as the *shoulder contact* and affection goes. All greys get grouchy at times and it has nothing to do with whether you're petting them enough. Tell you what..how bout you coming over to my house and do the same things to them as you're doing with your bird. One thing though--make sure you clear out some more room in your house cause they definitely won't wanna live here anymore.

If you're new to owning a grey, I'm positive that people will be glad to answer all of your questions and share plenty of stories and little tips to make your new family member Timmy feel good in your home. PS--many people here have TAGs. Some have TAGs and CAGs and also other species. Hope you enjoy your time with our family.

Well, it sounds very much like the ones I described. His feathers may improve in a new home as long as there's plenty of interaction between owner and bird The 3 biggest reasons that TOOs wind up with the short end of the stick... 1---their noise 2---their clinginess 3---their plucking On the average, TOOs are usually the majority of species that are in shelters/rescue centers.

Goffins are high energy, agile, and a decent companion cockatoo. They're much smaller in size than many of the cockatoos but just like the larger species, a very large cage with toys must be provided. Out of cage time each day is mandatory and extremely important for all cockatoos or else there's gonna be problems. In general, they're pretty playful under the right circumstances. In general, tends to be loving, but they do have their moments. They're also somewhat independent at timess. Without a doubt, they need a playstand. A TOO should be kept out of the cage as much as possible. I guess you know that a grey can be on it's own and are quite happy when not dealing with people. Well, a TOO is just the opposite. They're extremely clingy and less destructive to themselves. In a cage, they don't amuse themselves like greys and plucking is a common habit. One downside to owning a TOO is the high pitched screeching that goes on at times. Even if he wasn't a screecher before, the bird has to live with you before judging. They eat many varieties of food and in general aren't picky eaters. Some meat and chicken is apparently needed in their diet as they relish a steak or chicken wing. Most im[portant--lots of out of the cage time and plenty of physical contact. A TOO will stay on your shoulder all day long and eventually, you'll forget it's there. This is all I can think of.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/01/15 23:25

Tammy I'll be straight forward here. Although people don't like to hear this description, I'll say it anyway and it's especially true with new buyers. There's that time when buying a bird that the bird has to be looked at as a piece of merchandise even though it's alive. a person should have piece of mind and start off on the right foot when buying the type of aanimal that comes under the classification of being wild. I personally beieve that you should walk away and look for another bird. If a person goes to a kennel that breeds a certain type of dog, all the puppies will look cute but there may be defects in one or two of those puppies and a person has to be told about cause they're spending big bucks and deserve to get the best for their money. The choice is yours,. PS--you're already extremely concerned with health situations and yet, you don't even own the animal yet.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/01/15 19:57

Well, there's 2 kinds of granulomas--dermal ( external ) and internal. I don't remember which organ/organs are involved with internal granulomas..It's been a while. I'm also not sure of the potential dangers and the end results of internal granulomas. Sorry about that. Dermal( external) granulomas can't be spread from one bird to another. It's an infection --something like a person would get from hives--an inflamatory infection. There may be a ring of rash around it. Most times, they go away with topicals. That would be up to the breeder or vet as far as treatment

United States---Info on this company. Look further for more companies ------------------------------- VPI PET INSURANCE --1-888-899-4VPI (8744) ( BIRD INSURANCE) Easy, Affordable Healthcare for Your Bird Just like any other pet, birds are vulnerable to illnesses and health risks. The VPI Avian & Exotic Pet Plan covers medical treatments and surgeries for accidents and illnesses, minor treatments, as well as lab fees, prescriptions, X-rays and hospitalization. Birds are also covered for self-mutilation, feather-picking, egg binding surgery, neoplasia surgery and more. With a VPI policy, you'll be able to afford quality care for your bird to ensure a lifetime of good health. The VPI Avian & Exotic Pet Plan policy: Pays up to 90% of the benefit schedule allowance or up to 90% of the veterinary bill, whichever is lower (after deductible). Allows a maximum payment of $2,000 per incident or illness and a maximum payment of $7,000 for each policy term. Supplemental & Routine Care Coverage You can easily maximize your bird's coverage by adding the Supplemental & Routine Care Coverage rider. This enhances the VPI Avian & Exotic Pet Plan coverage and helps pay for a routine exam, blood testing, fecal analysis, nail and wing trim and much more. For just $99 per year, you can receive up to $181 worth of routine services.

You should simply go back to Walmart and purchase a set of stainless steel pots and pans. Walmart sells them at a good price. Go to Walmart with approx $8o in your pocket and you'll come home with a decent set or you can pick out individual pieces. Might take a bit of adjustment in cooking with them but i'll bet it doesn't take nearly as much of an adjustment as changing from a gas oven to an electric oven.

That cut was made by either your bird scratching itself in that area with a sharp claw or by him scraping his face against some jagged in the cage or having a serious fight with a toy. The antibiotic--official description Doxepin is used topically on the skin to relieve itching associated with certain skin conditions. This medication is for use on the skin only as directed. To use, clean and dry the affected area. Apply a small amount of cream to the skin area to create a thin film. Wash hands thoroughly after use. Do not use large amounts or use this more often than prescribed since the chance for side effects may be increased. This is usually used for not more than eight days. Taken internally, this antibiotic is used as an antidepressant. The type of skin dryness your bird has is the kind that's all over the body, not just in small spots. The topical above isn't used for skin that's itchy, scaly and dry from molting. Stop using that and follow the directions concerning the use of the Aloe Vera Juice. As far asthe cut he has, go to the drug store and purchase a bottle og Aloe Vera Gel. Put a small dab on that area. It won't hurt the eyes and it'll sink in and help the wound to heal. You'll be using this gel in the future for dry scales bruises or irritations, spot injuries from toys, minor cuts and scratches etc.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/01/13 00:34

1--he/she should have a generally clean establishment. 2--all of the holding cages should be somewhat clean. Expect some droppings though. Birds shit all day long. 3--make sure that he lets you have the option of picking your own one if there's more than one left in a clutch 4--be wary if a breeder tries to tell you to buy an unwened bird. 5--Make sure that he will wean the birds before selling them. 6--Ask about his refund, warranty or exchange policy. 7--ask him how long you will have to take the bird to a vet to get a "well check*. If there's a problem, a breeder should offer you the choice of the above. 8--ask him if it's alright to contact him periodically concerning questions that may crop up in the future. 9--the best breeder to find is one that only deals with birds. Birds that are a sideline usually aren't kept in prime condition 10--some people will say that it's best to ask other customers what they think when they bought their bird but most of the time it's pretty hard to track down previous customers. 11--if you're picking out a chick that isn't weaned yet, ask whether you can visit the bird periodically to see it's progress. Most breeders don't mind at all. This is the reason for buying a weaned bird--the normal procedure after a sale is that the person goes to a vet who checks the bird and tells you whether everything is good. A vet can't perform all the necessary tests on an unweaned bird. So, good results right now from a vet doesn't necessarily mean that there's nothing that can crop up before the bird is weaned. I say this because a breeder usually allows 7 to 10 days to have the bird checked. If a problem comes up in approx 1 to 2 mts from the vet visit, you're stuck. No refund, exchange cause the 10 days has passed. Don't expect to see the chicks' parents. They don't appreciate humans around them and you wouldn't be able to get close enough for any type of exam. Normally, they'll try to bite you. Michigan ?---I have no idea where there are breeders but I'm sure that Michigan has them.

I totally agree with Dan """There is a ton of incorrect data on the Internet regarding Parrots.""""" Much information being put out there is coming from companies that want you to buy their product. Other information say's that the redoing of a cage is fine for hookbills. What they don't mention is what kind of hookbills.Different hookbills have varied interest in chewing things. A grey is one of the most notorious chewers of all. They can't not only find a tiny opening that's a chip but they can create that opening if they want to. Greys are notorious for chewing on the bars of their cages when inside. All of this has to do with chewing but there's also another aspect to think about..the claws. greys will scrape the bars of cages while biting them. They'll do this when trying to undo a latch or when they're on the grating going through a natural process that they use in the wild which is scraping the hard ground in order to get any food that's there. Think deeply about this cage process. Many here had bad cages and graduated to cages made for their kind of hookbill