M2MM

I read too many stories about birds ruining jewelry, so I don't wear anything, except when going out and I don't handle my birds at all once the jewelry goes on. Prevention is always better than recovery. (Less expensive too )

It worked for me.

She's very likely beginning her "teens." My Grey has also been suffering from hormone ups'n'downs, crazy one day, super lovey-dovey the next.... Jeckyll & Hyde behaviour. From my research along these lines, they are living on a hormone roller coaster until they reach their 5th hatchday. By then, they stabilize - that's probably what the vet is referring to. :lol:

What a funny little budgie! So cute!

Kumiko was shipped air freight on a non-stop flight from the Niagara region of Ontario to Vancouver (West Coast). The flight took about 5 1/2 hours and he came through just fine. The ground crews and handlers were very careful and respectful of my baby. The little fellow was a bit of celebrity with freight office staff on our end. They cleared out all the people from the office (people picking up other things) and then brought him in for us to take home. This minimized his stress. BUT, he was very tired from the long and strange experience. :silly:

I didn't find any breeders with up-to-date websites, but perhaps an avian vet can give you some recommendations about where to buy a CAG or TAG. http://www.aav.org/vet-lookup/locate-vet2.php?query_field=state&search_string=or

The local shop in my area charges $1700 (Canadian Dollars) for a fully weaned baby CAG. I chose to get my TAG from a breeder on the other side of the country for $1150 plus shipping. He was 4+ months old, and a prize winning baby (came with his trophy!)

My TAG will also scratch in a corner (usually up high, not on the floor). He does this whenever he REALLY wants to be out and with me. I tell him "Sorry sweetie, but mommy has stuff to do that you can't help me with. Go play with your toys." I NEVER take him out when he scratches, or he will associate getting out with this behaviour. I then walk away and ignore this behaviour. It usually stops within a few minutes. He has never hurt his feet doing this scratching, but one time (I wasn't home) he split the tip of his upper mandible, causing the outer surface to flake off. I took him to the vet, and she said he probably stuck his beak in a corner and pried with it. She's seen this sort of "injury" before, but it wasn't serious. She filed it down to prevent it from getting worse. As for dumping his dishes for attention, you'll probably want to get some "lock crocks" to replace the ones he's got now. Or, some very heavy pottery/ceramic crocks that he can't maneuver. This will put an end to the tipping out of food and water.

Formula usually has sufficient liquid in it, so feeding him water is unnecessary. Let him learn to drink from a bowl, rather than pump it into him.

Amber wrote: You weren't kidding about it being a tiny bit. That's very curious. Is that the only feather with a fleck of red?

It will be very difficult (if not impossible) for you to take your bird with you into the USA. The quarantine period is very long (about 6 months) and not pleasant for the bird or the owner. I suggest that you find someone to care for your bird during your absence instead.

My TAG is a rough'n'tumble little fellow that's full of spunk and sass. They are smaller than CAGs (he's about 305 grams) and very chatty. They don't talk as clearly as CAGs (from personal experience), but that suits me just fine - I prefer a bird that sounds more like a bird. He can still inflict damage with his beak (mostly nasty pinches) when he gets too wound up and excited. It's all a matter of keeping your hands to yourself when he's overexcited. He's generally cuddly first thing in the morning and just prior to bedtime. The rest of the day, he plays, eats, flies around showing off his acrobatic skills, and beats up toys (& sometimes people :laugh: ) Small children should definitely stay clear of a young bird that's "feeling his oats" (just to warn you.) I'm in Canada, so I can't help you with the breeder. Hopefully someone else near your area can help. You will also need an avian vet for your bird. If you find a vet first, the vet might be able to help you with the name of a reputable breeder. Finding the right breeder is very important. The bird's first contact with humans needs to be a good one in order to turn out well. Good luck in your search & research. <br><br>Post edited by: M2MM, at: 2008/07/16 22:27

We have three Adventure Packs, and are very happy with them. All our birds are comfortable with them and enjoy outings in them. I know they seem expensive, but they are well made and are constructed of stainless steel, with a plastic tray (with removable insert) and a custom canvass cover that acts as a backpack. We use them as birdy car seats, carriers, backpacks, and for going to the vet (our vet loves it.) It's likely you would never need to buy another carrier, as they're very durable. You can order them online from many different sources. The manufacturer also sells direct (useful for international ordering.)<br><br>Post edited by: M2MM, at: 2008/07/16 22:12

If you are taking him out on the deck, I hope it's in his cage. Even the most loving birds, even clipped ones, can fly away if spooked or startled. In addition, predatory birds (hawks, eagles, crows) are known for taking parrots right off their companion's shoulder or arm. Just be extra cautious. :dry:

I just finished looking up photos (online) of bite injuries/wounds inflicted by parrots in general. They aren't as bad as I expected, mostly severe pinches that pierced the flesh somewhat. But ears, noses, and chins are easier to lacerate, requiring stitches. They don't appear to "take chunks out" of their handlers, but they certainly can tear soft tissue (like ears, and noses.) I used Google Images using: (parrot, bird) bite (injuries, wounds) in the search, and then scanned through all the unrelated pictures for the ones caused by birds. Not for the very squeamish.

I only have a TAG, BUT he is definitely a learn-by-doing type of guy. I still can see the "wheel turning" when he's observing what we do and say. You might say that TAGs are "blue collar" and CAGs are "white collar." :lol:

Don't clipped until they are proficient at flying and landing safely. Then you should only clip a little at a time (one flight feather at a time), until they are still able to fly, just not able to gain altitude. I don't clip my Grey, but do clip the parrotlets as they become little maniacs if they can fly anywhere they like. :evil: :laugh:<br><br>Post edited by: M2MM, at: 2008/07/16 02:07

Just thought I'd mention that I've been using a "bed" of ice with a small amount of water to keep Kumiko's greens fresh for longer. The ice cubes are laid in the bowl then water added and the torn pieces of kale, brocolli, etc. are inserted (like flower arranging ) and smaller pieces (chopped tomatoe, grated radish, etc) are arranged on top. It's actually surprising how long the greens stay cool and fresh, giving Kumiko more time to enjoy them at his leisure.

I think the point of more pellets, less seed is that the pellets (good ones like Harrison's) are well balanced and contain vitamins and trace minerals that we would have great difficulty supplying through the use of fresh foods and seeds. Parrots can be very stubborn about eating what's good for them, resulting in "junk food" addicts eating only what they like and not getting balanced nutrition. Pellets should not be fed indiscriminately, but as a basis for a good varied diet. My crowd gets about 75% fresh foods and 25% pellets. They only get seeds as treats, or in sprouted form.<br><br>Post edited by: M2MM, at: 2008/07/13 23:57

Kumiko likes to wash his face in his bowl so no bottle for him either. He has yet to make soup!

Congratulations Steve! {Feel-good-000200BB}

You are being very calm & patient, but pushy (IMO.) His body language is saying to me: "My turf, back off, leave me alone!" I realize that he's been doing this for quite some time, but it will take time and a different approach to get him to come out willingly. Have you read Barbara Heidenreich's book, The Parrot Problem Solver? If not, I believe it would really help you with this. Her methods are all positive reinforcement based but they do take time to implement (no quick "easy" fixes here). They are based on parrot psychology, so they should work on any/all parrots regardless of their history. I understand your desire to have him step up while in his cage, as it's important, especially in an emergency. With Kumiko, I give him a choice to step up or not. If he says no (in his refusal) then I leave the door open and walk away, more often than not this motivates him to come out on his own in a hurry. He doesn't want me to leave the room, thus leaving him alone. Does Dorian fuss when you leave the room?

Harrison's High Potency Coarse, Power Treats, and Pepper Coarse are always good choices. These are only pellets that my guys will eat (and enjoy).<br><br>Post edited by: M2MM, at: 2008/07/14 03:36

Congratulations! {Love-000200BF}

When Greys moult, they also like to clear the "underbrush" (downies), so don't worry about seeing her remove those feathers (actually just part of a feather. But, for the fact that she did pluck before, keep and eye on her. If she starts getting bald spots, it's time to intervene again. In the meantime, try using Bird Soother Spray or Aloe Vera cut with previously boiled water (50/50) to help alleviate the itchies that come with moulting. Fingers and toes crossed.