BMustee

That is soooo good to hear that he is responding well to the Bytril and it back to normal. You made the right call to get him to the vet when you did because when things like this happen it can get cleared up easily with a simple antibiotic. One thing to watch for though it make sure the crop empties at a normal speed and he eats good on his own. Sometimes the antibiotics can cause a mild yeast infection in the crop and they will want to revert to more hand feeding and eat less on their own...the crop will normally slow down with a yeast infection too. Sometimes the mouth will smell like beer too, so smell his mouth from time to time too. I don't think you will have to worry but I wanted to let you know about it just to be on the safe side. Only about 10% of the time after we have to use antibiotics at the store do we have to go back and give meds again for yeast but I thought it was worth mentioning and let you know what to watch for.

I wouldn't worry about it...they seem to knick themselves from time to time from playing too ruff with their toys and such. Like Dave said you don't need to do anything, but for any bumps or scrapes he may get in the future Aloe is good for soothing irritated skin...but NOT the gel. I keep a bunch of Aloe plants and break a leaf open and use the stuff from inside when needed.

I like the powder coated cages more, but that's just my prefrance...Plus for how much they are I would rather just save up a little more and get a "furniture" cage. :blink: :laugh:

Elmo farts, burps, coughs, sneezes and blows her nose. It's pretty bad but when she is chillin' on the shower rod and I walk in she farts. She must have learned it from the dogs though:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: !!! The joke "If the dog farts and YOU claim it...You might be a Redneck" runs true my house.:woohoo: :laugh: :sick: But then again it was a favorite passtime here to "Dutch Oven" the cats so anything goes here.

Sneezing alone isn't anything to worry about as long as there is no discharge, but the mouth being wet can be a bacterial infection. If you look in his mouth and it looks like there is slim in there then it's in need of a vet. We have a cockatoo at the store we are treating right now with that issue. It was fine one day and the next it was drooling this slightly milky mucuse. We started him on Batril and Nystatin and he is already better...he just needs a few more days of meds and he'll be good as new. I hope your baby isn't sick, but if he is then I don't think your going to have to worry too much sense you are getting him to the vet before things got serious. I'm sure you'll get him all better within days.:kiss:

Falconeer wrote: We have the worst timing, we're never on at the same time anymore!!! The other day I was in the other room for awhile and I left my laptop on in my room and you tried to get me on the PM, but by the time I cam back you were gone.

LisaM wrote: Hahaha...we have a Cuban Amazon at the store named Turkey, but he's named that because he looks like a Turkey! This isn't Turkey but I figured I would show you all what he looks like.

Now that is too CUTE!!!:laugh:

LOL, That is a really funny story. I love how the greys seem to have a better sense of humor than most people.:laugh:

I'm going with Erika on this one...keep trying with the pellets and cut back on the dried stuff. Im not a fan of it al all and Elmo only gets fresh or frozen produce. The died stuff is more like candy than anything else.

Look, you asked for advise about your grey leaping off the cage and I gave you my advise. Yes, she can and will hurt herself if she is allowed to do this...I have seen more birds that I would like with broken keels because they were doing the same thing as your bird. Obviously if she stays on the stand she feels like she is involved in the family and is happy there, for her to be jumping off the cage to get to you she isn't happy there...thus the comment of placing her elsewhere. Take what you want from the replys you get, but don't get all high and mighty when someone gives you advise that you don't like...take it or leave it.

Like everyone else has said, the cage is way too small. That size is ment for conures and similar sized birds, greys need at least in the ballpark of 30 inches wide (give or take a few). My Congo grey is one of the smallest you can get and she is in a 36" cage. From what I have heard Dubai isn't "parrot central" so I imagine finding the right cage can be hard, so I can see why you did have to get the cage he is in now, but be sure to track down a better cage for him in the near future...online is a great place to look, like ebay, that's where I got Elmo's cage. This is Elmo on her cage... Also, I noticed your grey is in full sun. When your grey is enjoying the sun the cage needs to be half in the sun and half out because they can over heat very fast. I have found with Elmo that when I wrap a new toy and let her unwrap it she isn't really scared of it...I guess because she started playing with it before she ever saw it.:laugh: You could try doing that with her next toys.<br><br>Post edited by: BMustee, at: 2009/01/17 18:45

It's a very good possibility that he could break the Keel bone if he lands with a thud on the floor. Like Carolyn said he should be trained to stay put where you want him...or else he could decide that what you want doesn't matter. Your wishes need to be law and when he is on the top of his cage or on a tree stand he needs to stay there. If this isn't enforced now when he hits sexual maturity it could be a big issue. You should get a nice stand for him that is on wheels so you can move it from room to room and that way you can put him on that so he isn't left in a hallway by himself and feels the need to go wondering for his flock.

I've seen quite a few TAGs and they are normally around 300 to 350 grams...they don't seem to have the huge fluctuation in size as the CAGs do. I've yet to see a timneh as big as Elmo, but it seems that the females are almost always noticeably smaller than the males in the Timnehs. Because there is such a big size range in the Congos I have seen small and large females and small and large males...although 90% of the CAGs near 400 grams are female.:laugh:

Yeah, I wouldn't pay that much for an all red grey. From my understanding they were put up for sale at 16 months so they would have started to molt already and if they didn't loose it in the first molt they probably won't if the all red is linked to the Pied mutation. The pied mutation is all over the finch world and when they have the blotches of white it doesn't molt out.

There is a pretty good range in sizes in CAGs and TAGs. The Congo's can weigh anywhere from 400 to 650 grams where the Timnehs can weigh between 275 to 400 grams. My little girl Elmo is a very small Congo, she comes in at 403 grams so she isn't THAT much bigger than the usual Timneh.

I guess the daughter and her kids were heartbroken and the daughter called the mother in tears over the timnehs death, I think because of that the owner of the store is willing to sell her the other timneh. Because she also learned a very hard lesson about keeping things safe in the house. I told the other sales girls that if the mother comes in and decides that shes going to get her that my e-mail address needs to go to the daughter because I want to be able to address any issues there might still be in the house. The one thing that makes me a little less worried about my buddy is that he isn't an all trusting baby but a skidish adult and I know she will bite the crap out of the kids first chance she gets...maybe that will keep them away from her. The second I buy a house Ethel WILL be coming home with me. I tell people that ask about how much he is that he's $3,000 instead of the actual $1,200. Plus Ethel loves to lure people in and then bites them...so not many people want to really bring him home.:laugh:

They are real...they are from a breeder in South Africa. The all red grey is a Double Factor Pied, the other two are Single Pied. The all red female and an unrelated Single Pied male are for sale as a pair...going for $150,000. Here is a link to the guys selling page. http://www.birdsfromafrica.co.za/redafrican.html<br><br>Post edited by: BMustee, at: 2009/01/16 10:07

Here is a few videos of a CAG and TAG together http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H18mkU6uEQk http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhvSLrpTe2s Here are a few pics I found. None of my pics have the CAGs and TAGs together at full size.

The other day a woman that bought a Hahn's Macaw from us about 2 years ago called with a warning for us to pass along to other customers... He Hahn's became ill so she took him to a local vet that said he treated birds. The first signs of things not going well was she had to ask the vet to do a Gram Stain! After he examined the bird he proscribed antibiotics. A few days later the poor Hahn's macaw lost his fight and passed away. A necropsy was done and it turns out that the Hahn's had a MASSIVE fungal infection!!! For anyone that doesn't know, if you give antibiotics to someone with a fungal infection you sign their death warrent. I pass this story on as a warning for taking your birds to a non-avian vet...or a vet that just doesn't seem to know as much as they should. Be sure to ask your local bird clubs or bird store for what vets they use so that you don't end up with a vet that is a "wanna-be" avian vet. The worst news though came today. The day before X-mas the last of my baby Timnehs went home. The mother that bought a Congo from us bought the Timneh for her daughter as a gift for the holidays...she bought him months ago but didn't take him till x-mas eve. Well, she came in today and told us that my baby died this morning. What is worse is that she thinks her kids did something like feed it something toxic. She told us she gave her daughter a crash course in bird care and gave her a book with the bird but obviously something happened and my baby paid a very heavy price for it. The worst part of it is that she wants to replace the bird for her daughter and buy my little timmy...the 1 1/2 year old timneh that even though I didn't raise her has bonded to me and is in love with Elmo. It's hard enough to know my baby is gone, but sending my buddy to a home that has killed one of my own already is heartbreaking!!! This little Timneh beeps with excitement when I walk onto the floor and jumps up and down for my to pick her up...she's my buddy. All I know is that NO ONE will be going anywhere NEAR my Ethel because after what has happened with my other babies I will not let anyone but me take him home.

Dohhhh...thats what I get for thinking and reading at the same time:laugh: . That's too bad, but I'm sure you will fall in love again.:kiss:

Hmmmm, well there is no Yellow Crown Conure but there is the Golden Crown Conure which is better know as the Peach Fronted Conure (Aratinga aurea). I'll be watching for pics cause now I wana know what it really is.:laugh:

They should do fine, however I would be careful about letting your Kakarikis on the greys cage because one bite could take a leg off.

Baby name ideas... -Carlos -Hector -Aemilia -Antonino -Camila ...just a few Latin names I like.

20 to 30ml is a good amount for his age...the best way of knowing how much is the right amount is to feel the crop. if it's firm you've fed too much. It should feel like a water balloon, not too firm where is has a bit of play but full. At his age he should be getting ready to drop a feeding, the morning would be the next to go. If he refuses food then don't give it too him...that's a very good sign they are wanting to eat on their own. Amazons can ge hard to wean at times, I've had a number of baby yellow napes give us a run for our money weaning, so it can be tricky. Using your baby grey as an example will go a long way, if the Blue Front sees the grey eating something good then he might want to get in on it too. Offer as much veggies, friuts, and pellets as you can because Amazons need much more fresh foods and less seeds and nuts as the greys. They get fat a LOT quicker than other parrots and get fatty liver which will kill them. That is the one HUGE advantage you have weaning him, you can get him on the perfect diet before he ever gets hooked on sunflower seeds. One more thing on weaning. Before a morning feeding, offer him veggies, cooked beans and pasta and see if he will dig in to that first. If he dives right in at his age you can drop the morning feeding. I believe that the Blue Front wean around 16 weeks but 18 to 20 is probably more what you should aim for. I would keep giving him 20 to 30ml at night for a few more weeks and then test the waters again for dropping the night feeding. The best way for that would be to watch him on your days off and see how often he is in the food bowl. If he is a pig and eats everything you put in front of him then just delay the night feeding and see if he really wants it or not given the choise of fresh veggies...if he digs in he's good.