TinyTimneh

Yep, it's true Turns out my mom will not hear of it (that being me bringing all my three fids)... Of course, I'm heartbroken and absolutely devastated{Feel-bad-0002006A} I don't have to move---but if I do the conditions for both me and Jacko (he's the only one I can bring with me) will be much better. He'll have plenty of time out, a house all to himself (no dogs or anything) etc, a good healthy diet with lots of fresh veggies and fruits etc because there's a fruit/veggie store right across the street. God... I swore I would never have to do this---I know and believe in my heart down the deepest core that birds are a lifetime commitment. I also know deep down that this might be for the best---Jacko and the little ones do not get along and it's hard to juggle time for them all, there are significant stressors in terms of space. I have a couple options... -I can stay where I am and keep all my fids...but face signficant stress for all involved -I can go, rehome the two smallest birds -I can go and leave the smallest birds here (my younger brother adores them), so they're at least with familiar people and a familiar place plus I'll be visiting at least once a week so i'll be able to clean cages etc. There is also a possibility this way that in a couple years when I am on my feet and on my own I can take them back into my life. Any thoughts? I'm just so tore up over this...

Lol I find if my parrots have too much sleep time and not enough play time they're very very crabby actually

Plucking for attention getting for me goes under pyschological/behavioural. The control device for me I'd put under the physical because it is a physical thing on their body that causes them to pluck (I would too if I had a giant thing around my neck like a collar). On a side note, I don't support the usage of collars on feather-plucking birds because the stress of having one put on is no doubt going to make it worse. Plus like you said,the bird is going to pluck more when the device is removed to punish the owners and take out their pent-up frustrations and desires. The only case in which I would support a collar is where the bird is chewing holes into the skin because then it is quite possible the bird will actually mutilate itself to death.

Hmmm...then that's slightly more tricky. Try dropping the food into his dish and continue just talking to him and being nice--he could be sulking too and trying to punish you..he should come around. Also I didn't think it was possible for a grey this young to select as favourite person (as it seems to be the case with the grey and your dad) but this might be part of the problem. In this case have your dad do all the unpleasant things that the grey doesn't like (nail clipping, wing clipping, being put back into his cage etc.) and you will do all the things the grey likes (like feeding him, giving him a bath etc. whatever he happens to love). Also, try taking him out into the world for a walk either in as harness or carrier *NEVER EVER EVER TAKE THE BIRD OUT WITHOUT A HARNESS OR A CARRIER, EVEN IF HIS WINGS ARE CLIPPED--YOU ARE FLIRTING WITH DANGER AND THE VERY REAL POSSIBILITY YOU WILL LOSE HIM PERMANENTLY*.

Like a lot of people I used to try and follow the 10-12 hours of sound sleep a night for parrots. However it wasn't getting me anywhere because in order to get those 10-12 hours with my early-morning risings I had to put the birds to bed early--add this to the fact that I go to school and the birds certainly didn't get alot of quality time with me. I was reading up on the subject and came across the information that adult greys sleep a lot less than that naturally, maybe only 8 hours or so. Furthermore, when I thought about it, parrots need natural cycles. Although this might be interpreted as 12 hours of sleep, to me the more important thing was when these parrots were sleeping. Flocks of parrots generally only go to roost when it's dark and get up as soon as the sun rises or else they'd be breakfast for predators. Captive birds probably instinctively do this too---so it makes no sense for them to go to sleep when they know it's still light outside regardless if they're covered or not (the sun doesn't just go out like a light switch, it sinks gradually). The end result? I've stopped adhering to the 10-12 rule. My birds have a good view of the outdoors so they see the daily light/dark cycles. They go to sleep when the sun goes down (which right now means about 10:00 PM) and get up at between 6-8 AM when the sun rises, just like a wild bird might. I haven't quite worked out how this will work in the winter because it's dark out by 5 PM ish and the sun doesn't come up till about 7 AM-- but for now they're living in a natural cycle and seem happier for it even though it goes aainst the rules. The tropical wild ancestors of our birds might have lived on 10-12 darkness cycle but our birds have never known that cycle... furthermore they are adaptable creatures. A person immigrating from a tropical area to a non-tropical one might be accustomed to as 10-12 hour darkness cycle but obviously would adjust for example--and I figure the parrots can too.

Thanks she, didn't even think of it, karma to you. The only thing is Jacko is flighted and my little parrots will be soon too so if the electric fireplaces get hot on top/outside then it's too much of a risk...

Hey all, Me and the fids will be packing up and moving soon (about a month or so) and going to live with my mom. Firstly, anyone have any moving tips? I'd like to make it as easy as possible on Jacko and crew. They're well adjusted to their carriers cuz they sleep in them every night so I know I got that covered. Secondly, my mom just told me recently that the house actually doesn't have any heating :blink: (and considering I live in Canada--winter without heated homes IS NOT an option lol). Normally I'd not be worried and say huh well we'll just get some portable heaters or as wood stove... Obviously a wood stove IS NOT a good idea--- I don't want anyone getting burned--so what kinds of heating methods are safe for parrots?

First off--realize that occaisionally you'll get bitten no matter what, no birds 'never bite'. Part of that wonderful experience of parrot guardianship Very few parrots hate anything to the core so don't be too hard on yourself--we all make mistakes. It's normal that as a young baby and as a new member to your household that the grey was sweet, young birds are naturally sweet and birds in new surroundings don't know the 'lay of the land' yet so they want to be as inoffensive as possible. There are a couple things you need to do in terms of your grey and the biting: 1) change your way of interacting with the bird until the behaviour stops or is changed. So if your grey bites when you go to get him to step-up, stop it for now. Just talk to him and offer him treats from your hand etc--build up a good positive relationship with him, especially if you might have irritated him previously. 2) If you're bitten DO NOT REACT. I know, it's hard but don't yell, jerk your hand away or anything. Leave it there, the bird will eventually let go. Then, go collect your composure in another room for a bit and then return to the grey (he'll of needed time to calm down too) and try to end things on a positive note (offer a treat or something) instead of a bite. 3) Work hard to establish a new pattern. Will your grey allow you to handle him away from his cage? If so, take him into another room away from his cage on a daily basis and work on step-ups a couple times a day. You need to establish a pattern where when your hand is presented the bird thinks it's a good thing and knows what to do so it isn't scared (in this case step-up)instead of hand= I don;t know what to do I'm scared or here comes those surprises I hate= I have to bite it. I don't know if you're familiar with step-ups but basically you say the bird's name and ask him to step-up (so it's '*Name*, step-up/up), present your hand and then gently press it into his belly/legs untill he steps-up, then tell him he's a good bird and give him a treat. Eventually you'll want to not press your fingers into his belly/legs but you'll need to the first couple times until he gets it.

Hmmm--well I don't own a CAG but am loving slave to a TAG and I find that he doesn't hold up to the AG personality profile at all (when he first came home he did--but he had been neglected and traumatised in his previous homes so I'm not suprised). With the exception of a few things nothing really bothers him--he's alert but definetly not shy or reclusive--and if the dog comes into the room-- LOOK OUT lol Jacko's on the prowl. All the CAG's I've ever met (both young and adult) held up to the stereotype of being standoffish and reserved--kinda snobby almost lol . I've only met two TAG's (mine and a baby at the pet store) but they were much more in extroverted and courageous, lol not to mention goofy.

You're very welcome always glad to help Zupreem isn't necessarily a bad brand although the fruity pellets are full of sugar and synthetic colourings and flavourings which, like with people, isn't a good thing. If my memory serves me correctly the issues with safflower and sunflower seeds are because they are high in fat and low in other nutrients--also have a tendancy to possibly harbour various toxins/fungi etc. if not grown or stored properly--same thing with peanuts. Also parrots can be allergic to both of the seeds types and to peanuts.

All right everyone, quick update--particularly for you Tycos_mom so I can maybe help you out with the macaw. Did some modifications wherein I removed the towel he was sleeping on and just put in plain newspaper. His aggression dropped dramatically.. a couple days ago I felt bad and gave him an old t-shirt to lay on while he's in his crate--he bit me hard that night as I was going to put him in the crate but he actually has been much better about the biting since then. I'm beginning to think that he's not biting me personally but I'm the only thing he can get to--I think he's angry at the towel/shirt and not me. With a bit of modification I've learned how to put him in without risking getting bitten and so I'd recommend that you give it a shot-- it has made a few improvements. Also where I went wrong was I used to let him play in it alot during the day--which I shouldn't have--the crate should be solely for sleeping.

As someone who owns a plucking grey, I'd say that there are four broad categories: -Physical (allergy, illness, injury etc) -Psychological (emotional trauma, boredom, stress etc) -Environmental (humidity, diet,stimulation, air quality etc.) And the fourth one is HABIT (it becomes much like nail-biting or Trichotillomania, which is compulsive hair-pulling). Not only that but I believe that all four of these elements interact with each other.

I wouldn't worry about it You have what most of us dream for lol, a parrot that loves fresh foods so much they'll disregard everything else---I can't get my grey to eat a lot of things. Jacko did something very similar when I began to feed him cooked/fresh foods & seed as well--he completely went off his hagen tropican pellets---I tried to cut back on his other foods but then he began to lose weight and I felt bad so I relented and got him eating some fruity-flavoured zupreem. I figure most pellets don't taste too good so it's only natural they'd ignore them. At this point I'd recommend trying a different brand than the Zupreem and see if you can find one she likes better. If not, just crush the pellets into something soft you already give her and as for emergency situations I like to keep seed on hand--because I know they'll eat it plus if seed gets wet in the cages it's not as bad as pellets which tend to turn into mush.

Hey all, There'll be some major changes coming my way in about a month and a half--I'll be moving in with my mother into the small community of just under 10,000 people in which she lives. Obviously this means some major changes for my flock, some good (no dogs so plenty of out of cage time , run of the whole house etc) and some bad (alot of hawks and free-roaming dogs/cats). One of the awesome things is there is a local grocery shop right across the street (I can see it from my window) that usually has a ton of veggies because agriculture is big in the community. With that, I've decided to make a major overhaul in the birds' diet and will be feeding them mike's manna mash as the majority of their diet (haven't quite decided the ratio yet, but it will be at least half). In that I'm away at school for the morning fresh foods aren't an option because they'll spoil--so I need a pellet/seed mix for the morning--and want to switch onto harrisons. The mash recipe calls for several supplement powders and I'm wondering if I should remove them so my birds won't get a toxic dose of vitamins--but if harrisons is only going to be (in my tiels case, seeing as I'm worried about the protein content being too much for her) anout 25% of their diet---will they be getting enough vitamins from the pellets?

Hey all, Anyone know the recommended dosage for using GSE to treat giardia in parrots? I've found ratios for people, dogs etc but no parrots.

I think where I may be going wrong is that it's a small dark enlosed space where he sleeps flat-flooted like he would be in a nest. I think using a separate cage and not a small dark crate would keep the problems i'm having from developing.

He's started plucking again more because I've had to be away from him so I wasn't around to help curb the habit. I also was foolish and shared strawberries with him--but the plucking is starting to decrease again--I also haven't fed him sunflower seeds in a while so I might just take those out of his diet permanently... My vet was useless and actually told me it's 'normal' for greys to pluck and that I should be happy he doesn't pluck himself bald or chew his skin. She also treated me like I was a hypochondriac with my grey so I will be trying to find another vet if I can... he does exhibit a pattern similar to Giardia-related pluckers (underneath wings, on his back behind his neck and occaisionally the inside of his leg and rarely his neck)--so that's always a concern although he doesn't show any symptoms besides the plucking. Mostly it's just simply a habit for him and I haven't quite figured out the combination of things to stop him. I might stop the crates because for now it's just making things worse in terms of his hormones raging...I thought it wouldn't because he only sleeps in there but oh well...

Hey all, so unfortunately things have backslided since my last post. It's been a week or so since then and although first impressions were good Jacko has since become extrememely aggressive inside his crate. He will bite and charge me or lunge and pounce on the blanket without hesitation although he is fine when he has been removed from his crate. Up till now I've been simply toweliing him and removing him to his cage--he is also plucking much more now and has been for a few days. He is only in there when sleeping and I cover him. At first I thought it was because he was in close proximity to the cockatiel and linnie so I moved their crates across the room. Still no change. He is also regaining the same aggressive traits inside his cage as well---any thoughts or suggestions?

How has having Jacko changed my life?? I can't begin to count the ways . I had no idea what I was getting into when I first laid eyes on him in that smoky basement---all I knew was this wonderful and inteligent creature and I shared a moment and forged a bond--and I knew I had to bring him to a safe, warm place and get him out of there. At the time I was a young teen and from that point on my whole life changed in order to care for that wonderful, kooky--sometimes exasperating-- feathered friend I've grown to love so dearly. For one thing, I'm never alone in the house anymore-- eating, sleeping, showering--I always have my buddy. I love waking up and doing our little morning routine. My day revolves around him and the rest of the flock. Every penny I earn usually goes to him--- I haven't bought clothes with my own money in years ! Also, bringing a grey of all parrots into my life made me undergo a long and sometimes painful process---I became a bird person. Would I trade it for anything? Not a chance. It's not always easy to communicate with non-parrot people when the most exciting thing you did that day was having your bird fly to you---but parrot people always understand(they also know that group birdie and people showers are the best kind !). Since then my flock has grown and probably will continue to grow. I owe it all to a lil grey critter who stole my heart half a decade ago and refuses to give it back (unless I have sunflower seeds )

Sorry I had to make two posts (the forum tends to kick me out if I take too long to type it all). I also find that most parrots will take seed or other foods over pellets any day. There must be some sort of compromise for how tasty the pellets can be made. Sure their nutritious and easy, like meal replacements are for us humans, but are they neccessarily tasty too? I mean, would you rather eat a meal replacement bar or real food? Personally I'd eat the food. It's a drag that the higher quality pellets that could be very tasty aren't readily available in a lot of places. (For example, the only other food I can think of that isn't Zupreem or Hagen that I can get my hands on is Roudybush-- there are things like Pretty Bird and such companies but I'm not exactly sold on their quality).

Exactly, furthermore, when you think about it, most of the common pellets are some sort of corn/soybean/wheat concoction mashed together and then naturally/artificially preserved, then the appropriate supplements added (the vast majority of the ingredient list on a pellet bag is synthetic). My question then is this: How does it make a pelleted diet any better than a seed diet supplemented with vitamin etc. supplements? I'd rather my grey ate a varied seed mixture (most of the good ones will have grass seed, millet of varying types, oat groats, canary seed etc) with a vitamin supplement than a highly processed corn (lots of calories--no nutrition really) pellet loaded with synthetic substances. Actually I'd rather feed a completely fresh mix of healthy grains, seeds, nuts, berries, veggies, fruits and protein sources than either.

Hey all, Been doing some research because I'd like to get my fids off of the fruity zupreem (I hate all the excess sugar and colourants but it's the only one they eat readily that I have easy access to) and as we all know, seems like everyone has got their own version of what good parrot food is. Some advocate a majority pellet diet supplemented with daily greens, veggies and fruits etc. I am slowly beginning to disagree with this because there is no way that a processed kibble could possibly be complete and satisfactory, let alone individuals and differing species. For example, I've run across numerous reports that pellets for many of the Austrialian parrots, like my cockatiel, may be doing more harm than good because they're too dry and high in protein (my vet agrees). Also they may be too low in fat for these seed-eaters and for birds who eat a lot of oil naturally (like my grey). There are some who advocate feeding a completely natural diet (i.e. give them what they would eat in the wild-- so a combo of nuts, seeds, berries and fruit for example). But then again an Amazon parrot eating this diet in the rainforest may only live to be 10 years old, falling far short of the 45-60 years in captivity. Then again, there are the wild conures of Telegraph Hill in San Francisco who have to been documented to be living approximately 14 years old--if they were to be protected from a harsh winter climate they might live longer than that. There is the last train of thought that advocates exclusively veggies, legumes etc. cooked daily with a little bit of seed/nuts. I'm not quite sure which I side with... but I figure this might be an interesting discussion.

Lol...we've all been outfoxed by our greys as some point, yours truly included. To help with your problem and avoid the confrontation, I'd suggest training her to go into her cage by herself (often I find my Grey will stop stepping up because he associates it with being put back in his cage if I put him in there) When she's on top of her cage show her a really yummy treat and show her that you've put in it her food dish--she should clamber in to get it. Use cue 'In your house' etc. as she climbs toward the door and praise her once she gets inside.

Oh, and of course I forgot to mention I'm already seeing an improvement on his territoriality---I'm very excited to see what other changes will happen in terms of his behaviour .

Well, as my mother and grandmother used to say (who are five three and five one respectively) good things come in small packages (like greys ) So this is night two of my sleeping crate experiment and I must say this morning was the first time in a long time I have not woken up to pieces of down lining Jacko's cage. He didn't pluck himself at all last night. It wasn't the most relaxing night last night for anyone because it was a new routine but everyone seemed at least decently rested. I'd say he's plucking (knock on wood) less generally as well. Still plucking---but not nearly as much as some times, although I can't say that the sole reason is the sleeping crates (I'm also now sharing meals and showers with him--he also gets out in the Aviator daily plus I'm on vacation from school). On a side note the little bugger tipped over my wax plant and broke the pot lol.