Giannine

The 1st link of the first set you posted looks small to me which is why I chose the 3rd. It looks like it is 32" wide. I also am not a fan of the dome top cages. I prefer play top cages as it gives them an extra space to spend time outside of their cage

The 3rd one seems to be the most appropriate size. I looked for one that was at least 32 inches wide.

I am grateful to be able to see her growing up and it makes it even more special because I thought she was an infertile egg. I really was not expecting to get a TAG until next year after being told the eggs were infertile. The surprise of finding out one week later she had in fact hatched was pretty cool. I had been buying things for her for weeks while waiting for her to hatch and then put everything up. I'm still getting used to the idea we're getting her and the time is going by quickly. She will be 12 weeks on July 31st but I am hoping she will wean closer to 14-16 weeks.

I was just getting on here to post these pictures—one being her little tail feathers:D

Usually when i'm on forums, the most crucial information relevant-to-the-forum is pinned to the top as a sticky, but not a thread where people are commenting and conversing back and forth. Replies are turned off. I have found on this forum that some stickies are simply discussions without that one piece of "must-have" crucial information that makes it sticky-worthy. For example, I read a sticky yesterday about someone realizing their birds would not step up in an emergency situation and the thread consisted of conversation and suggestions after that. There wasn't any clear, helpful plan of action given in this thread and if there was, it should have been in the very first post so people don't have to sift through pages of information to find it. In my opinion, a helpful sticky in that situation would be "How to Evacuate Your Birds in an Emergency" with clear instructions given in the very first post. I would appreciate reading stickies that contain the most helpful information on the forum. Replies being turned off just keeps the focus on the sticky and keeps it uncluttered. This way, people can get the most important information without having to search and browse through the site. As it is now, I have stopped reading stickies after the first four or five. I just haven't found them to be consistently informative. Thank you for reading:)

I just posted a link to an article that specifically recommends keeping pillowcases in a designated spot where your birds are in the event you have to evacuate in seconds and cannot do so with kennels or carriers. Great tips in it: http://www.birdtricks.com/blog/how-to-evacuate-parrots-when-you-only-have-seconds/

I think the tips to evacuate in seconds were very helpful and smart. Here in WA, they (a couple thousand military and emergency personnel) recently held a 4-day drill to prepare for the earthquake and tsunami that is to come. Unfortunately, I live very close to Seattle which is in the zone they predict will be wiped out by the tsunami. You also offer a good tip so thank you!

A breeder in WA state posted this article to her Facebook page and I found it very informative and possibly even sticky-worthy. The original includes photos for reference and has more info. It was too long to fit in this post as it exceeded the character limit http://www.birdtricks.com/blog/how-to-evacuate-parrots-when-you-only-have-seconds/ We talk a lot about being disaster ready at BirdTricks.com because even getting people thinking about what could happen helps people and their pets survive if something does happen. If it saves one life – it’s worth it. “I lost everything in the bushfire but at least I managed to release my bird! Now all I have to do is find her, can you help by sharing my advertisement?” I’ve heard that more times than I care to think about. This post is dedicated to those of you who currently have: “If all else fails, release the bird” in your evacuation plan. I’m hoping this is reaching you before that “If all else fails” ever eventuates because I think we can all do better than that. If you release a bird in the chaos of a fire or a disaster, it’s as good as dead from smoke inhalation or the heat or whatever you’re fleeing from anyway. I’d hope that if you’re in a bushfire area you’d be well enough prepared to have removed your birds early, however sometimes evacuations need to be performed without warning, very quickly. In my ideal world, people have a plan that can help them evacuate with ALL of their animals in seconds if that need ever arises. For that to work, it isn’t enough to have evacuation cages simply on hand (although that’s a good start). I can’t carry this many travel cages in one hit without the help of a car. If you have seconds to get out, running back and forth to the car – not an option. ULTRA FAST EVACUATION. Let’s say a smoke alarm just woke you up and your house is already full of smoke. There is a fire. You’ve only got seconds to react. You have to get yourself and your animals out of the house immediately. Chances are you haven’t got time to go running for a travel cage or worse if you have multiple animals (I have 10 birds, plus cats and dogs) just try and visualise a person carrying 10+ carriers at once? That ability is not one of my superpowers but I still have a plan that allows me to physically catch and carry all of my animals out of the house in one hit. Remember: Whether you have 1 bird or 10, there is one thing that you need to know about birds in an emergency. When panicked – they don’t step up on command and they are more likely to bite. You need to plan for that and have a way of catching/containing them anyway. (Do you need to keep a net nearby?) My secret weapon in a fast evacuation is a pillowcase with an elastic band. The trick to a fast escape? My secret weapon is a pillowcase. It’s relatively easy to put your hand inside a pillowcase and use it to catch a bird (not unlike wearing a glove). When you have grabbed the bird, turn the pillowcase inside out over it and suddenly what you used to catch the bird is actually containing the bird. Even better, unlike 10 carriers, I can carry 10 pillowcases in one go. I don’t even have to put the pillowcase containing a bird down in order to catch another bird. I can tuck the end of a pillowcase through my belt or into my pants, (so the bird is swinging near my hips) which effectively keeps my hands free but still allows me to carry the birds that I’ve already caught. How NOT to do this. You don’t want a bird (or a stuffed toy) struggling to escape and getting the elastic band around its neck. Fold the pillowcase as you secure it (see next picture) to prevent this from happening. Some things to pay in mind when choosing a pillowcase: An animal can breathe through a pillowcase. The pillowcase will actually help to stop your bird from inhaling smoke in a fire. The lower the thread count, the easier it is for an animal to breathe through the material. So don’t go and buy the most expensive pillowcase on the planet. In this case, the cheaper ones are usually better. Cotton is a good choice of material as it is less flammable/likely to melt than a synthetic material. Pillowcases come in different sizes. Standard is fine for most birds but if you have a Macaw or larger bird consider buying a King or Queen sized pillowcase. Having different coloured pillowcases can help you quickly identify who is in a pillowcase if you have multiple birds. This is the correct way to secure a pillowcase to prevent escape. The fold at the neck of the pillowcase, should prevent a bird from seeing light at the opening of the case and will prevent it from getting the band caught around its neck in its struggle to escape. How my fast evacuation works: I have a large airtight ziplock bag that I keep in my bird room, which has everything I need in it for a fast evacuation. Its location means that in the same second that I pick it up, I’m already in front of the first cage door I’d need to get to. How I store my ‘fast evacuation supplies’. The bag contains everything that I consider myself likely to need: A headlamp: This is a torch that you wear on your head. I assume a power outage is more than likely in an emergency or that smoke from a fire could make it hard to see. I also assume I’m going to need my hands free… A headlamp solves both of those problems. They’re not expensive (mine was only $5) and are readily available from a camping supply store. Spare keys: My birds are escape artists. I keep an extra copy of every key for every lock that I use on my cages. I label them with coloured labels so that I can tell them apart easily. Pillowcases: I roll the pillowcases individually (no time to undo store packaging in an emergency). Each pillowcase has an elastic band (some countries call them rubber bands) around them. The bands are used to stop the animal from escaping the pillowcase (explained more fully in the pictures accompanying this article). I use colour to help me identify a pillowcase by its size. In my case, brown = standard size for my smaller birds, white = larger pillowcases obviously for my larger birds. Hint: the difference between a light and a dark colour will be easier to distinguish in low lighting/power failure. I also have a patterned pillowcase for my elderly disabled galah so that I can quickly recognise that the bird contained in this particular pillowcase will be more fragile than the others. I place the pillowcases in the large ziplock bag in a specific order. As I move anti-clockwise around my bird room the correct size of pillowcase will be at the top of the bag, possibly saving me crucial seconds. I have enough pillowcases for all of my birds and my cats. Spare elastic bands: They break easily or perish when exposed to heat. It makes sense to have a few spares handy. You need to check their condition regularly to make sure they haven’t deteriorated while you have stored them. A reminder note: This says “MEDICATION IN FRIDGE”. It’s a reminder, so that in the panic of evacuation, I remember that if I have a chance it would be very helpful if I grabbed the animal medication that needs to be stored in the fridge. I keep it in a bag, so it’s easy to grab. Some of it is specially compounded so would take weeks to replace (so think life-threatening consequences if I don’t have it). However getting to the fridge would require re-entering the house so it’s not as high a priority in my plan as getting all of the animals out alive. Small ziplock bag of medication: This is my animals’ medication that doesn’t require refrigeration, so can be kept close to my animal’s cages. In my case, I keep a spare insulin pen for my diabetic cat. Spare dog leashes: My dogs are in my plan. These leashes hook in to their collars. They’re spare only in the sense that I don’t use them for their daily walks (they have other leashes for that). This is about saving seconds, so I want everything I need in one place. My dogs are too heavy and large to carry, so they’d need to be led out by a leash. That’s all I think I could carry in one go. I must stress the above is not my ideal evacuation scenario. It’s my “If I have seconds, this is what I grab” scenario. It can get me out of the house with all of my animals in less than 2 minutes. Remember, I have 10 birds plus cats and dogs so you may well find you’re faster. This plan is a lot better than: “If all else fails, release the animals into whatever anarchy I’m trying to escape from”. If you only have 1 or 2 birds: You may be able to simply use a travel cage in an ultra fast evacuation. I’d still consider having a pillowcase handy though because it does make it easier to catch the bird if you have something like that to grab them with. In this case though I’d probably not be using the elastic band but be dropping both the bird and pillowcase into the carrier, allowing the bird to make its way out of the pillowcase into the carrier while I got the whole carrier to safety. If you only have 1 or 2 birds, you can use a carrier. I still keep these near my larger aviaries, in case I ever need them for a slightly less hectic evacuation. (Rope perches are soft and therefore easier on a bird’s feet for long distance travel. I don’t recommend them if your bird is inclined to chew them or for everyday use.)

I like the clear cage...where did you get it from? Edited to add: I just found a Caitec one on Amazon for $71.83

Poppy is finally starting to look like a bird:) All of these feathers popped up within 5 days. 2nd picture was taken yesterday. I'm not sure if I shared with everyone or not but we found out about a week ago that Poppy is a girl. Initially, I said I wanted a male but then I decided I wanted to be surprised so I picked which baby I wanted before the DNA sexing was done and really thought Poppy would end up being a male because the breeder thought so but when I found out Poppy is female, I was very happy so I suppose I must have really wanted a girl:D

What is the name of the wild Quaker's facebook page, Sterling? I'm interested in seeing it

We have wild flocks here in Washington, too. Pretty cool:) She actually did much better yesterday and stopped trying to get on my head every single time she was on me. I was able to get some good shots of her yesterday during her flying from spot-to-spot escapades

This is Olive

I have been. I say "No head" as I am taking her down. Is this behavior common or is it just her?

Hi everyone, I just brought home a baby Quaker on Tuesday and she is settling in well but I am having a difficult time doing anything with her because her main goal is to always get on my head. As soon as she steps up onto my hand, she jumps onto the front of my shirt and makes a beeline for my shoulder to climb on my head. I take her down immediately and she does it again and again and again. If I am anywhere near enough to her, she will do this. I can never just hold her. Anyone know why she is doing this and how I can stop it? I know birds feel safest up high...she is just so darn persistent in her quest to get on my head. One-track-minded, for sure.

Good tips and info. Thank you, all:)

Charlie's dad, it must have been your thread I saw the Amazon link in. Sterling, thank you for posting that video. Your flock definitely seems to enjoy their baths

I love Disco and so do my kids and our Parakeet, Cheeko. We always play his videos for Cheeko and he will stand on the keyboard of my laptop or stand right in front of my phone beaking the screen when Disco is on. He "talks" back to him, too

Good advise. I bought a couple smaller toys today (both under $8) so I will wait until I actually get him/her to see what it's preferences are. I do have quite a few foot toys of different materials so that should help give me an idea, too

Whoa...what happened? I think I missed the "judgmental" post. I am new here, as well, but have not encountered any judgmental people. If you are looking for advise, be prepared to answer questions. And it helps not to be ultra-sensitive. I was hoping you would stick around and allow the people here to help you. I wish you and your Grey luck.

Interesting. Even in the Winter? Do either of yours bathe in the kitchen sink? That seems like it would be the easiest and possibly least messy...then again, it is just water:)

I just clicked the link and couldn't see it either but thought it was due to deactivating my account last night. I've noticed when I upload videos to Facebook from my iphone, the quality is terrible!

I saw your video of her in a casserole dish with ice water! I actually was wondering if cold water is the preferred norm or is that unusual?

Does anyone here shop from Drs Foster and Smith? If so, what toy size do you buy your Grey? I bought several what I thought were medium size (I thought the 'M' was for medium) that ended up being quite large and I found out they are for Amazon to Macaw. The next two sizes down are Conure to Amazon and Parakeet to Conure.

I was reading posts the other night and someone had posted the link to a mister on Amazon for $15 which I was going to buy but then I came across this one today which is actually larger (2 liters) and almost half the price ($8.99). http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=22824