Dave007

If she's only 6 mt old, she'll change to you then back to him then back to you then back to him until that day comes when she'll ease up on the choosing. The bird is going though it's own way of socializing into your family. She's still a baby. Who knows, maybe she thinks your husband is very handsome and alluring at this moment. Females are very fickle.

Yes it is. there's no teflon coating. Aluminum cookware is like stainless steel cookware. The only difference is that aluminun cookware has a shorter life span. But both are good.

People don't get a sore chest. You mean inside your chest? or are you talking about a sore throat? If you're breathing in the dust it will cause slight breathing problems and it has nothing to do with how young the bird is or when he starts to produce dander/feather dust. Do you feel sick or have pains in your chest?

****is it commen people get like this at the start of getting a grey and matter of getting used to or anything?? **** I'm sorry but I don't understand your question. ***** people get like this **** Like what?

All greys plus other species create feather dust. The official name is dander. They'll do this throughout their lives. Many things will get dusty and will need to be wiped off including their cages. You can get different fans but the best ones to get are exhaust fans which will pull out tiny the floating dust in the air. The other dust in the area will need to be vacuumed or wiped away. As far as bathing your bird, check out these two links which will give you many ways to learn to bathe your bird. http://www.greyforums.net/forums/showthread.php?189753-Bathing-possible-method-1 http://www.greyforums.net/forums/showthread.php?189752-Bathing-possible-method-2

The most common abnormality of the uropygial ( preening gland) occurs from vitamin A deficiency. Birds on poor diets are likely to be vitamin A deficient. Correction of the diet and perhaps an injection of parenteral vitamin A, will usually rectify the problem. Infection may also occur in the uropygial gland. This may be secondary to hypovitaminosis A, immunosuppressive disease, such as that which occurs with Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD), or trauma. The usual treatment is a cleaning out of the area and possibly a VIT A injection like he says. Only he can see how deep the infection is though. So he may suggest a more thorough flushing out of the area. I underline the above area because it is unusual for 2 birds to have that same preening gland problem at the same time so the birds need to be checked. That illness can be spread from one bird to another. Another sitiation with the gland could be very minor such as a clogged up area that's be hard for a bird to get rid of. As far as price, it depends upon what the vet did with both birds, tests, medications but even then, vets have their own prices. The food you're giving is fine including the broccali but it shouldn't be given on a constant basis ( everyday) That also applies to other vegetables everyday. They need to be rotated.

The price is high for 2 reasons 1--the bird has unusual female coloring in the foot. No female high gloss hair polish will ever have to be applied and 2--the bird is gay. PS--an albino has no color. An albino is white with pink eyes.

One of the worst ideas is to come around for visiting. A person makes up their mind to rehome a bird and that's when he/she decides whether the person is alright to take the bird. Contact should end there for the bird's sake. The bird is in a new environment and it's focus should totally be on getting used to that. A grey never forgets. Plus, someone mentioned rescues. That has to do with visiting a person's home once and the main reason for the visit is to see that living conditions are right---cleanliness, proper type of food. When I say proper type of food, that mainly includes parrot mix. Nothing concerning food refers to the variation of diet. They simply wanna see that the food is made for parrots and not other types of flying birds. What extras you feed or don't feed doesn't interest them. They don't care whether you let the bird out of a cage or not. They make suggestions about the size of a cage when a person first adopts the bird. Plus, the rescue visit is a one time thing and occurs approx 6 to 8 mts after the bird is adopted. If things are generally in order, they leave and are never seen again. """""""That's why local is such an important thing for me. If he's close by I can visit... Sorry """""""" So what happens if that *local * person decides to move far away??

It's gonna take a lot longer than one week before you see a definite personality in the bird. The bird doesn't know you. You don't know the bird. The bird is in a new place that he's not familar with. That includes new people, new habits around the house, daily schedules. Normally, a person doesn't try to do physical things with the bird until the bird shows a bit of interest and curiousity. The best environment for a bird to checkl all of these things out is in the safety of his cage. If he's in his original cage, that's good. If he's in a new cage, that's also something that he'll have to get used to. *****and i just wish there could be more i can do so she can learn to trust me and love me, i realy want her to let me pet her and for her to go on my hand,""""" That only comes with time and after the bird trusts you. Also, you never mentioned the age or how long the bird was in the previous place but if he's an adolescent or adult, the whole process takes longer. Talking to him constantly, giving treats through the cage, being around the bird alot are basic ways for a bird to get used to things. Having his cage in an area where it's easy for him to see what's constantly going on is a good idea. If the bird is alone all day, the process may take even longer. BUT most importantly, it won't happen in a week. It's takes a lot longer for a parrot to get used to everything that's new.

And he's gonna squawk and yell the next time you do it and then he's gonna squawk and yell the next time you do it etc etc.

Of course he's gonna screech and yell when you do it. It's not uncommon. No, he won't hold a grudge. When finished, simply put him in his cage for 5 minutes and then go and get a nice treat he likes, give it to him and tell him he's a good boy. By the time 1/2 hr has passed, he'll be involved in something else. AND just to tip you off, the next time you do it he's gonna squawk and yell --you give a treat and leave him alone other then talk. Don't hold him or try to comfort him because actually, you're the one that's going through the horrific trauma. He's simply pissed off but not so pissed off that he'll refuse a great treat. More than likely, if you haven't ever done toweling before, I doubt that you're gonna be able to cover the eyes but it's better for your bird to see what you're doing anyway.

$50 fo a nail clipping? Geez, that's very much on the pricey side. Got a friend? Since you're the one that clips the other bird, have a friend come over, towel the bird ( even if the idea doesn't appeal to you), have the friend hold your bird and then you clip. Plus, like you said, it IS a good idea in case of an emergency My friend takes his german shepard to the vet to have the claws done and it costs $7.

Smell? I don't think so. Yes, you're right, the closer the better but you need to work in order to get there. Some birds are afraid of a light all around mist but won't be afraid of a close mist. A good way to accomplish that is be using 1/2 squirts and making the mister less misty. Don't forget, the most important places to spray juice is the breast, upper and lower and the area between the inner wings that attach to the body. These areas can get itchy but doing it only once a week is fine especially if your bird isn't constantly pulling and picking on those areas. If your bird has dirt/dust ON the wings or tail feathers, that comes under the catagory of wetting down your bird so that dirt is removed. Usually, plain water is used. When using plain water, it should be on the cool side. That even applies to the juice but I have no ifea whether that would be a pain in the ass for you to do. A small amont of time in fridge is what is required. Now you might say *why cooler water?* Well, it's been seen over and over that after a bird has been sprayed down with room temp water and totally clean, the bird will then be put in a cage where there's cool drinking water and the first thing the bird does is try to climb into the bowl to get wet. Strange, I know but birds will be birds. In the wild, birds try to find the coolest water to bathe in.

You should start off with the tiniest amount. Yes, it isn't the prescribed amount but it may take you a while to build up to that amount. Many greys HATE palm oil so trickery is the only way to go. I've spoken about melting it down to a thin liquid. I put pictures in but there is another way to do it. Instead of putting the thin oil on pellets ( I assume you've been taliking about pellets) what you can do if you're giving your bird parrot mix, simply put it directly on the parrot mix and stir it. The seed will have the oil on it and he won't have any choice but to eat it. The good thing here is that parrots love parrot mix. I've been doing this for years with one of my greys who at one time in the past was totally bald and vitamin deficient ( I'm talking about ALL vitamins). He needed different vitamins plus thepalm oil because I need to get VIT A and VIT E into his system. He hated the oil back then and he hates the oil to this very day. So, that's the trickery I use. He likes pellets and will eat them as long as the pellets haven't absorbed any extras like palm oil. Plus, in your situation, only give the oil once a week and work your way up.. Take a very thing item as thin as the tube thatr holds ink in a pen or a thick toothpick. Stick it in the oil and drip it over the food. Roughly 15 drops is enough. As he accepts it more use about 20 drops. That's enough. With my bird, I give him about 40 drops 2x a week mixed in with parrot mix.

I doubt very much that the spray will make her pluck again. In the article I wrote, there's a few ways of doing it and also how some birds take to being sprayed with anything. I would suggest that you spray her from a distance where she won't look at the sprayer as an enemy. Yes, you'll get other things wet in the beginning but it'll be a start. Aloe juice is extremely inexpensive. I gallon jugs can be purchased at Walmart for $9. People here can tell you about how differently their birds reacted and how their bird gradually came around. With some birds it takes a while. all greys are different. None will take to things the same way because of their individual personalities. If you spray from a distance generally aim for the breast area. Juice is most effective when it hits all areas that will quickly take it in. Spraying on the tops of feathers like wing and tail feathers is really a waste of time. Any liquid will just roll off their feathers. The juice is basically for making the skin softer and less itchy and more supple. With many birds, they get angry from the spraying but those same birds actually like the results afterward when they're preening. They just won't tell you. Actions speak louder than words. Just make sure that anything you spray on your bird should remain on your bird. No towels, no hair dryers. The more soaked a bird is, the longer the skin stays wet allowing the skin to be less itchy and irritating. A bird staying very wet for an hour or more is the best thing that can happen to the bird.

The gel is used for irritations, small minor cuts, external dryness, bald spots from plucking, scrapes on legs and feet etc . Only a small amount is used and the aloe gel will sink into the skin leaving a very tiny healing film which disappears shortly. It's not spread over large areas except in emergency situations. It can be compared to a hand lotion which shortly disappears into the skin. The aloe juice is a thin liquid which doesn't leave a film on the feathers. It softens dry itchy skin and is good for letting the birds drip dry. The juice can be mixed with different %s of water but in actuality, the best way to use it is full stregth. 2 different items-- both having good results

Taking a bit and putting it on your fingers isn't gonna do any good. Below is a link that tells you all about it, how to use it, methods of using it, the benefits of using it and it tells about the different attitudes birds have towards it http://www.greyforums.net/forums/showthread.php?189967-100-natural-aloe-vera-juice

There doesn't have to be any rings on birds in any country that legally imports and exports birds which the UK still does. That's been banned here in the US since 1992. Also, any birds that are sold in pet shops don't have to be banded because the birds aren't gotten from a private breeder. ***I'm worried about where these poor birds are from.*** The only time you should be worried is when the birds look in terrible condition. Many people in many areas in many countries have to depend upon pet shops in order to buy animals. Anyway, when buying a bird from a pet shop, the pet shop gives out their warranties/guarantees and any other info they usually give out. A very young grey's age, up to a point, can be seen in the color of the eyes. AS far as price, all parrots sold in pet shops cost more than what a private breeder charges.

WELL, don't put it in !!. Sunflower seed isn't important in parrot's diet. With some birds, it can cause internal digestive problem if too much is eaten Most green veggies contain calcium but there's other things that can be purchased that also have calcium but for now, stay with the veggies.

Read this whole thread--it's 3 pages of info plus pictures. http://www.greyforums.net/forums/showthread.php?190961-Red-Palm-Oil-from-Ebay

If it's you that's gonna put the sunflower seed in, don't. The amount in the bag is enough. You can feed it along with the veggies that he likes and sometimes give other things like pasta that he can hold, some very clean chicken wing bones, almonds that are still in the shell, walnuts that you would crack open but still give the bird a half with the shell connected. I don't know whether you can get red palm oil in Ireland but it's a supplement that contains VIT A and VIT E. We have a thread here with pictures and opinions from people that use it.

This is no good. The mix is made for large macaws. As I said, the other one is very good but no matter what you buy, it needs to be given to the correct size of the bird. The company also makes seed for budgies, cockatiels, small conures and other small birds and none of them would be good for your bird because the seed is too small. Stay with the one that has the picture of the grey on it.

INGREDIENTS: Buckwheat, raisins, safflower seed, mung beans, white sunflowers, black sunflowers, banana, papaya, pineapple, walnuts, white dari, paddy rice, hempseed, white pumpkin, pistachio nuts, cashew nuts, pine nuts, chillies. It sounds like a very good blend of mix. What's impressive is the various amount and types of nuts in it. Many US brands don't have that many different types in the bags. I'm pretty sure that Bucktons is also pretty expensive but it's a good quality and just keep giving fresh veggies all the time and a very small amount of fruit.

Ok, just remember----no gin and tonics, no martinis and no rum and cokes as well as no wine.