Dave007

No they don't. Time of Incubation is different (27/29 days for TAGs)----(32/34 days for CAGs) Despite what you may have seen concerning people saying that's what they have, it's simply a matter of intense colorization or lack of colorization, larger or smaller sizes of birds. Plus, CAGs and TAGs don't live anywhere near each other in the wild.

I'm not exactly sure concerning what you want so I'll just give this info out. It's in the Training Room. Maybe this is what you were referring to? http://www.greyforums.net/forums/showthread.php?109373-Body-language-most-frequently-seen Hope it helps. It's what and why I was referring to when I said it was in Body Language Room

I'm not fond of pellets in general. In the wild, there's no *pellet trees*. So, I guess that greys and other wild parrots which are all scavengers must suffer a lot because there's no * pellet trees* ? ARA doesn't use them. World Parrot Foundation doesn't use them.

Exactly--no touchy, no feely.

I know the sound you're talking about and every grey does that frequently during times of affection. They wanna be touched, rubbed. They turn their heads upside down. Their eyes squint, almost like they're just about ready to sleep. What's more important about this behavior is that the bird really wants you also rub other areas of the body which isn't a good idea. These areas all have to do with a bit of sexual excitement. Many times, rubbing like you're doing will cause a bird to nip when you wanna stop. He doesn't wanna let you stop. Your bird is in that age category where he's not sexually mature but he is sexually aware. Adolscence is present. Compare it to a 12/13 yr old boy. After the age of 5/6 yrs old, they then become sexually mature and show more intense interest when rubbed in the wrong place. Heavy duty biting can occur. When you're rubbing him like that, finish your rub and walk away. Don't keep sticking your hands in his face. You have no idea how he feels about concerning that first rub(should have continued--shouldn't have continued). When you walk away he'll immediately go back to doing other things. Be very aware of your bird. All of this is spoken about in Body Language Room.

Safe fruits: Apples -Apricot - Bananas -Blackcurrents -Blueberries -Cherries -Chikoo -Chilli's -Coconut -Cranberries- Currants - raisens - sultanas -Dates -Figs -Gooseberries -Grapes -Grapefuit -Kiwi Kumquat Lemon- lime in moderation -Lychees best to remove the stone, but skin can remain. Mango -Melons remember the seeds are much loved. Nectarines must remove stone. Oranges - clemintines - satsumas - tangerines - mandarins in moderation . Papaya -Passion fruit serve simply cut in half . Pawpaw -Peach - plums - must remove stone .Pears- Persimmons -Pineapple- Pomegranete- Raisins- Raspberries- Redcurrents -Sharon Fruit - Strawberries -Sultanas Tayberries -Tomato -Ugly Fruit Vines and leaves are never mentioned concerning fruit. They're not considered fruit Grape Ivy

I have received many remarkable nature photographs over the years but this photo of a nesting Falcon is perhaps the most remarkable nature shot that I have ever seen. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did. Nature is truly breath-taking!

http://www.greyforums.net/forums/showthread.php?193760-Avian-first-aid-kit

Smokey (CAG)----575 gms------large boned grey Jazz (CAG)------470 gms--------Medium boned grey Tee (TAG)-------325gms-------Standard boned grey. Weight of CAGs is determined by the size of the parents. Smokey's parents were male--585 gms----female---606gms

Most parrot people have to travel long distances to get to their AVs. Avian vets are considered to be specialists which they actually are. DVMs can be compared to human MDs who are primary care doctors. For every 150 or more DVMs there's 1 AV. Most AVs are located near busy populated areas like cities or heavy populated counties. You would need to do your own personalized search for an AV. Some AVs in AAV.org have retired or have moved and those facts aren't always updated. Some DVMs may know AVs. As far as I know, long distances from AVs hasn't deterred most people from getting a bird but If distance is really a problem, another option would be to move to Minn or St. Paul.

It's time for you should start using the various rooms here. This room is strictly for welcomes/intros. You've already discussed different subjects in this room which should have been moved to other rooms. Post all of your ventures in the Grey Forum room.

Just getting back from the dentist. No problems with the teeth and the nurse repeated what she said last year * you have such sensual lips*

Yes, you should walk away from your bird when he does that. There's also areas that should never be touched even if no mating behavior is going on. 1---lower and middle breast area 2---Tail and surrounding feathers where the vent is ----upper and lower feathers. Both areas are exciting to a grey and will cause the grey to go through the situation you describe. The reason that it shouldn't be done is because when you wanna stop, your bird may not want you to stop and you can be bitten if you stop sexually exciting the bird--your bird is reaching that age where he will be sexually mature ( 5 to 6 yrs old) which is the more reason to walk away. That behavior usually lessens in approx. 2 weeks.

The diet is excellent. The way she treats mineral stones, blocks is normal. For your living situation, setup is perfect. *******Over all she is friendly to all people in the house hold and new people. She only likes to be petted at night but will gladly be held at all times of the day by anyone. She could careless about toys of any kind.****** Fantastic!!!! You really lucked out!!!! ********She does not speak at all but she does mimic water, cat meow, and puppy barking.****** Many greys don't mimic human language but they do actually speak in their own language and as time goes on, you'll understand what she's saying. In the wild, greys don't imitate human language. I have 3 greys---------1 mimics human language ---2 don't but they all speak parrotese. *****Should i ever expect her to stop plucking?****** I looked at the photo and that's a very minor plucking problem. There's things you can buy but I'll refer you to our threads that deal with plucking and feather care. These threads are all in the Health Room 1---Read about Aloe Vera Juice 2---Read about Aloe Vera Gel 3---Read the post about Chronic and Acute Plucking

Are you ready to own a grey? It’s an important question that should not be taken lightly. The most important considerations are how much time you have for your grey, how much patience you have to train an incredibly bright and pretty much wild, creature, and what tolerance do you have for noise and mess. For some, noise means one thing and for some others it means something different Parrots Need Attention------Lots of Attention Parrots are extremely intelligent creatures. They need regular stimulation. Some species are prone to self-mutilation if they get bored, such as African greys and cockatoos and although these 2 parrots are totally different species, they have many, many things in common. They need plenty of toys to destroy – and those can get expensive. They need play time outside their cage. A bored bird can be more than depressed, they can make your life miserable with screaming. Parrots Are Flock Creatures That means they want to be with their flock. I remember someone once inquired about lovebirds and wanted to know if they would be happy in the garage – he was worried about the noise and mess. No. They will not be happy in the garage. Don’t get a bird if you want to relegate them to a lonely spot by themselves. Parrots Can Be Noisy Luckily, greys aren't You probably won't get a noisy bird get a noisy parrot, but chances are at some point each day they can raise a ruckus.This is instinct. They are calling the flock. Parrots Can Be Destructive Got a favorite wooden chair? Have jewelry you wear which may get chewed on? Make sure the grey doesn’t get onto it – it might be missing an arm an hour later if you do. I remember when a friend bought a new (expensive) treadmill, and his grey managed to jump from her play tower to the arm rails without him noticing for 5 minutes. In that time she had a delicious time destroying the foam covering. Parrots need constant supervision when outside their cage, and the alternative is NOT keep them in their cage all the time. That's a terrible thing to do and will cause a bird to have an attitude and create boredom. Parrots Are Messy No matter how big a seed or other food catcher you get, there will be seed on the floor. And they poop. A lot. You will be cleaning up poops all the time. Parrots Are Amazing If you have the right mindset and environment for a parrot, they can be the most amazing pets. They will make you laugh and surprise you over and over with their uncanny intelligence. The truth is, a parrot is a much larger commitment than a more domesticated animal like a cat or dog. They can’t wander around on their own so they require your time to get the attention and exercise they need. There is nothing sadder than a parrot relegated permanently to a cage to just sit glumly waiting for their life to be over. If that’s what you think could happen, don’t do it. Also know that other animals need to be watched when they're around parrots. Anyone who says that it's perfectly alright is a very Probably, the worst potential owner is one that intends to go to college, be away for long periods of time, thinks that owning a grey is a novality, hasn't made any effort to get the whole family involved with the keeping of the bird. A one person bonded bird isn't fun if others around it can't handle the bird. Realization soon sets in. A person needs to know that a grey or other parrot is a wild animal and will remain that way no matter how long a person owns it. There's a 98% chance that any grey who escapes from the house into the outdoors won't be found no matter what device is used on them. A baby grey is totally different than an adolescent/ adult grey. The change in personality becomes obvious. Clipping a grey's wings to cause a bird not to fly around can be compared to trying to deal with a symptom rather than the cause. There's wonderful reasons to get a grey but try to absorb the downside. See if it applies to you. You wanted some info about owning a grey? Sit down and read it.

WHAT IS the matter with you parrot people? Because, let's face it, parrot people are weird. Now don't deny it or send me indignant notes about how normal you are - you're not fooling anyone. Think about it: When a normal person brings a pet such as a dog or a cat or a goldfish into their homes, they continue to lead normal lives. They socialize with other normal people, they continue to listen to the same types of music, read the same types of books, and eat the same types of foods as before. You, my parrot- afflicted friend, do not. So how odd are you? Let's make a list! 1-- You are a scholar of psittacinism. You can spell psittacinism. You scour the Internet and bookstores for research material on parrots. You join discussion groups and share in agonizing detail each tiny movement of your parrot with other parrot owners, who then share a more-than-unusual interest in everyone else's parrot's poop. In fact, poop now occupies so much of your thought and free time that you have lost interest in politics, career, and IRA earnings. 2--- You have begun avoiding normal people, because your parrot seems to have taken a dislike to normal people. This includes your spouse. When he (or she) walks into the same room as you and your bird, there is obvious resentment at the intrusion. However, you are trying to stop reacting this way. 3--- You eat parrot food. That is, you have taken to eating the special healthy people food you fix for your parrot. It's so much easier than separately preparing the usual junk for yourself. This is, in general, a good thing. (Just remember to avoid the birdie bread you made with Harrison's.) 4-- You have rearranged your furniture to accommodate your bird and future birds. If you are severely afflicted, you have bought a new house especially designed for parrotly needs, including vaulted ceilings, screened-in porches and rooms with drains in the floor. 5-- You buy only healthy and interesting pet toys that cost the equivalent of two months' salary and can be destroyed by a beak in five minutes. You ask store clerks questions such as, "Is the dye on this wooden block human grade?" and "What types of chemicals were used to treat this suede strip?" and "Where can I find your organic, preservative-free unshelled imported almonds?" 6--- You make your own bird toys. Sometimes you do this even when you can find bird toys you like. "My toys are cheaper to make, or more interesting," you tell yourself. And then you set up an Internet store or auction site to sell your toys. You use your other talents For the Good of Parrots. You make quilted cage covers, human clothing protectors, jewelry designed to be worn by humans and chewed on by parrots, paintings of parrots, key chains engraved with the parrot's name. Parrots are the dominant species on earth and they are simply using us to perpetuate their race and eventually take over. If you doubt that, just remember that it's the dominant creature who gets other creatures to take care of it. Think about all you do for your bird, the hours spent cleaning his cage, cleaning the floor, cleaning the food and water dishes, cleaning the bird toys, cooking food, cleaning the walls of said food, bandaging your skin from the latest nip. Then think about how you sit down exhausted and feel grateful and honored to look upon his pampered plumage and big dark eyes. This is not normal. You'll never see a dog person made misty eyed by the beauty of their pet slowly lifting its leg. I say it's high time parrot people reclaim their lives and save the human race from certain demise. Be strong - it won't be easy or done quickly, but by acting together people can thrive as a species again. Begin this journey just as soon as you finish sewing the cozy sleep hut that you're involved in right now.

Fear, Intimidation, Being leery of---------- A grey can sense when a person has any of the above. The most common thing that happens is a nip or a bite or a bad bite. Hundreds here can tell you stories about what's happened in the past concerning family, friends, visitors.

Your grey is reverting back to when it was handfed and also showing that it wants certain areas rubbed. Very bad idea to give in and start that rubbing no matter how old a grey is---chick, adolescent, adult. It could cause a bird to bite especially in adolecense and adulthood. Right now, your bird is nearing sexual awareness Greys don't mature sexually until they're approx. 5 to 6 yrs old When an older grey ( approx. up to 3 to 5 yrs old) does what your bird is doing in the vid, the bird wants sexual areas rubbed which is a very bad idea no matter how old any grey is. As far as your wife, greys will temporarily pick out one person from another person and takes to that person. It's hard to say how long it will last ( 2, 3, wks) but it eventually goes away. Why did it happen? That's impossible to answer because greys will do that for many reasons. People can tell you it happened because of a certain reason but that doesn't mean that the same reason applies to your bird. What to do? How to act? Walk away. Right now, petting the head is fine--no other areas. That behavior soon lessens. Your wife? she should hand feed different favorite treats without touching or rubbing your bird. Nuts are very appealing. Eventually, your bird will be more relaxed with her but it may take time. Things will eventually go back to where it was. BUT, understand that your bird may be starting to pick out a favorite person and if he is, it's very important for both of you to be involved with the bird all the time.

Totally agree with you concerning Facebook groups. As a matter of fact, I have an idea who you're referring to. One of them said *either you agree with me or other ass kissing members OR you're out of here* One other thing though. Unfortunately, many times a regular bird board can become a Facebook feel to it. * Oh gee, DO you know what yesterday? my bird was acting very silly with my special fruits mixture. He snubbed his nose at it** Response----**Haha, my bird only does that with my husband when he comes home from work. Next Response---- ** Hehe, My bird will only squawk when veggies are given before the fruit** Next Response---- **haha, guess he's not a meat and potatoes guy*** For many people, that format isn't appealing.

I'm really glad that this subject came up. It gives me the chance to say it like it is. There's no such thing as hijacking members. All people have the choice of looking at other boards and when some interesting subjects come up on other boards, people simply go to those boards and check out the contents. If they find some appealing subjects that's more in line of what they're looking for, they either look through the board's contents and then maybe decide to join. I've seen people presently on other boards that used to be very active members here but have left. It's easy to spot them because they use the same usernames no matter where they go. This occurs on all types of boards no matter what the subject is. Fish tanks, different species, different designs, tools, furniture designing, electronics, indoor and outdoor botany, training specialized dogs. etc, etc, etc. There's one common thing about bird boards------At one point, years go by and *the thrill is gone*, the birds are adults, the birds are home, have been socialized into families through the past years and the birds are just members of a family so owning the birds is now no big deal. At that point, a bird board is no longer needed. Look at this board--approx. 65/70% have to do with baby and adolescent birds. I can't even begin to count the loads of members in the past who joined, ask a couple of questions and are never heard from again even though they say that this board is the greatest thing since the invention of the light bulb. Just looking through the past member list here brings back memories, memories, memories, but those members are gone.

Great job on his scissor beak.

I wrote this a long time ago but now a days I paste it because your situation is exactly like your and I don't feel like retying it over and over again. I put a few things that aimed just for you.If it's an adult that's been owned by others, the bird's attitude probably started then. There's plenty of things that the bird has to get used to in his new home---household habits---new people----other pets----new environment----general hustle and bustle of the house etc etc. That usually takes months, not weeks. The bird has to first feel assured and comfortable in it's new house. Lots of talking to the bird, having the bird in the middle of everything that goes on in the house on a daily basis. The bird has to learn your habits, the husband's habits. Immediate intense physical handling is not a good idea right now. At this time, it's not a good idea to have lots of strangers constantly hanging around your bird. There's a couple of 'classification' names that apply to all pre owned adult parrots that're adopted. One is 'the bird has a past history' and the other is 'the bird has some baggage attached'. Most of the time, history and baggage can't be gotten rid of. It can be modified though as soon as your new bird realizes that many things are now different. Handling your bird is an individual thing because your bird has it's own personality unlike any other bird even though it might be the same species. The best thing to do right now is to say to yourself that "I shouldn't be disappointed if everything I hope will happen doesn't happen". Having that attitude allows you to see the many other great features of your new bird and will help you to enjoy and appreciate them. I have some pre owned parrots and none of them are 'ideal'. They're simply great birds and I'm glad they're happy. Some of them were serious biters. My wife and I, working with them for quite a while, have succeeded in lessening the bites BUT they still bite. It doesn't completely go away. =================================================================== 3 weeks, 4 weeks, 5 weeks, 6 weeks, 7 weeks or even longer is a very short time. If the bird is an adult, that is insufficient time for the "getting to know you" period.Often parrots chose a human (for reasons unrelated to gender) because they are able to "feel" the attitude that emanates from a particular human. Persons of either gender who are calm and don't exhibit jerky or fast movements, who exude compassion for a parrot's utterly dependent and relatively helpless captive state, are more likely to be accepted. Fear biting can quickly become learned or habitual biting. By putting yourself in a situation where the bird will bite, he is being taught that biting will get him what he wants - to be free of your attention. I would recommend that you position a chair at a comfortable distance from the cage (you can determine what the bird's comfort level is by his reaction to the position of the chair), sit quietly and read the newspaper or magazine aloud and incorporate the bird's name into the narrative. Have a quantity of very small treats handy. When/if the bird comes down the side of the cage (he is locked in his cage), offer the small treat. He may accept it; he may throw it on the floor. If you don't wanna do this, fid a similar method. One thing about that video-----you're trying to coax him onto your hand. You're offering it and then taking your hand back. You're teasing and making the bird leery of you. its obvious to me that he doesn't wanna stretch out to get it. Just doing that is enough for a bird to bite you when you get closer. Offer the treat in such a way that he is unable to bite your fingers. I suggest holding a tiny bit of the treat between your thumb and first finger. Most of the treat will be sticking out and it should be easy to determine if the bird is going for your fingers or for the treat. If he takes the treat, all well and good. If he goes for your fingers, ostentatiously drop the treat into his bowl inside the cage from the outside of the cage and return to your seat. If you can't do this, then don't do it. The treat must be one that he wants. Many birds like pine nuts, pecans, almonds, crushed bits of Nutriberries, a quarter piece of grape, etc. Experiment to determine what treat the bird likes best and use this treat at no other time except when you are offering it, whether the bird is in his cage or on the playstand or cage, etc. Stop coaxing him to step up on your hand because if you keep doing that , he's gonna give you a serious bite. When training a pre owned bird, expect to get bitten. So slow down. Be patient. Stop giving the bird an opportunity to bite you. Pay attention to his body language. A Grey, who is fluffed with his head down, will bite you if you don't respect his wishes. Many will slightly turn the head so they are looking at you with one eye. If the pupils are dilating in this position, back off or you will be bitten. As well, a Grey whose feathers are tight and he is leaning back will bite you if you persist. Biting can become the first response instead of a last resort for a bird to rid himself of the insistence to do something he doesn't want to do or to remove the presence of the one who is trying to make him do something he doesn't want to you. As caretakers, it is up to us to find a way to help a bird do what we want him to do. Insistence in the face of opposition, commanding tones and body language, pushing your hand into his stomach to make him step up will not inspire confidence that you are a loving gentle human who the bird can trust and love. It takes time for a bird to transfer his affections to a stranger. It will happen but you be the one to make the concessions. Dave

Hi, welcome to the board. Lovely grey you have there. No, I don't think the map feature is here anymore. Best thing to do is post your question in the Grey Lounge and start a new thread such as Live in or Nearby ( put your state in)?? Most of the members read the posts in the Grey Lounge and you'll probably get responses.