Dave007

""""" I use a welding glove to pick him up. """""" That's probably one of the reasons you won't have much success as far as picking him up. No gloves of any type should be used in order to get the bird and that's especially true of much older birds who will seriously bite someone who approaches them with gloves.

Cedar chips and pine shaving in a cage have a minute dust that can hurt any bird that has either item. Birds that flap around in the cage can easily circulate that dust. Breathing can become labored. Any droppings that fall can be easily hidden. Also, because droppings can be hidden, it's hard to see if the droppings are normal. Loose liquidy whitish droppings are hard to spot because those items absorb fluids. Corn cob is also not recommended because it harbors germs and can be toxic. Most people eventually switch to plain newspaper or rolled sheets of white paper that supermarkets sell. Cedar chips and pine shaving aren't sold as bird products.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/10/23 04:33

Pretty common with greys. They also like to bathe in very cold water. Safe?--yes. Fun?---they love playing with them.

Slowly and gradually cover less of the cage. Let them all see the light. More than likely, the cover plus the lack of light caused frights. Some birds are very aware of the slightest sounds that go on. Even you can't hear those sounds and if the bird can't see where or what the sound is, there may be accidents

Many greys periodically turn their backs on repetition. If he wants a quiet place to stay, allow it. A grey will come eventually come around because of it's curiousity. Just make sure he isn't sick. Sick birds don't socialize, stay in their cages, refuse to talk in their own language as well as human language. He'll tire of the solitude and will mix in soon enough. These types of things go on frequently with much older greys such as yours.

spookychick13 You sound worried. Your bird is going through a hormonal phase which may happen 2x a year. Many hormonal birds will try to seriously bite a person if they're treated as they've been treated during the whole year. Normally, they want nothing to do with people in a very social way which goes on during the year. Many become very grouchy and simply stay quietly in their cage or come out of the cage but still don't wanna be handled much. Other birds will react as yours does and you should feel very happy about that. As rbpittman has said, certain areas shouldn't be touched because it gets them more sexually excited than they already are. But those areas shouldn't be touched even when they're not in a hormonal time because they get sexually excited and when you decide to stop, a bird may bite because it doesn't want you to stop. As far as clicker training goes, that's something that doesn't have to be done constantly in order for the bird to learn things. They don't forget the lessons that have been taught already. Youi should feel happy and lucky that she wants to snuggle. Many other people only complain about the hormonal stage because it has to do with their bird starting to get short tempered, nippy and doesn't wanna be held.

In certain areas, they can be had easily. In other areas they're not popular. In large pet stores, a certain type of uvb bulb is made for reptiles. Reptiles can't survive without that type of light. Birds can survive without that light although it's much healthier for them to have it. If they're hard to find, here are 2 sites that sell the whole setup--bulb, stand etc. www.parrot-and-conure-world.com/full-spectrum-light-for Pet-supplies.drsfostersmith.Com/petsupplies/Uvb%20Bulb Others here can tell you how and where they got they're setups. Sorry that I couldn't give you more sites. I'm familar with these two and their product is good. The prices are fair. Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/10/21 18:56<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/10/21 19:04

I totally agree with She. Your bird came to you as a nervous plucker, has calmed down quite a bit thru meds and putting another grey just may undermind everthing that's happened so far. Personally, I have no idea what you mean when you say-- ***Would a Second Grey help Ganesha?*** Help with what? You just finished saying that the bird has had a major transformation.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/10/21 08:09

If you got this bird from a breeder, it needs to be brought back immediately because the weaning process should be done by the seller. There is no way to force a chick to eat more food after the crop is full. As far as the crop emptying once a day, the crop should be empty every time a feeding is beginning, not just once a day. Problems may exist with this bird that originated when it was born. If this bird is a CAG, a whitish beak is abnormal. Not to insult or scold you but anyone who isn't familar with handfeeding shouldn't be using a live animal in order to learn. You don't know how much air is in the bird's lungs when you feed which can cause serious problems. Some bird's pin feathers aren't always visible because of all the fluffy covering. The crop may look full to you but you have no idea whether the fullness of the crop is because of air mixed with formula or just the formula causing it.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/10/21 07:49

My personal opinion is that you don't bring the bird with whether they allow birds or not. One month isn't a long time when you know someone that will babysit the bird even though that person isn't so eager to do so. Your bird is a baby and very inpressionable right now and needs to live in an area that it's used to. It needs to develop right now. As far as other animals where you're goping----I assume they're domestic animals. Do you know how your very young biird is gonna react there. There will be others where you're going and right now, the home is the safe place to build up confidence in itself and others. As far as your %5 a dy babysitter, thats a bad idea because you haven't the slightest idea what those birds have been exposed to and baby birds don't build up resistances to things until they're much older. As far as a carrier, whichever carrier is used in the future, is up to you. I prefer animal carriers such as those used to put small cats or rabbits in. Other prefer the other type you mentioned. At hom,e a bird can accept that it's not getting the same attention as before but at least it's in a familiar area that doesn't have a million distractions. You're going there for some type of training so you won't be able to take your bird from place to place all day long. Like I said, it's just my opinion but I would only move birds from one place to another ( especially 10 hrs) only if they were gonna remain at the new place permanently and I've done that before and my trip involved 17 hrs of driving. PS---You asked how's the bird gonna accept that amount of hrs of the trip? That's im[possible to answer because you can equate 40 minute drive with a 10 hr drive because all birds are different. Some can, some can't.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/10/20 22:48

Periodically, this can happen with overpreening, especially with lovebirds but that practice rarely involves one area of the body. She is most likely picking her feathers. Sometimes birds pick for medical reasons like a skin disorder, or burrowing mites, and dry skin. Mist her about 4 times a week with warm water to help dry skin even if she hates being sprayed. Other reasons are that your bird could be very stressed about something, not getting enough sleep, having her cage moved, having something new added to the inside of her cage, losing an owner or a mate, not enough privacy, not having enough toys to keep her busy, being in a cage that is too small....lots of reasons. You should try to change her food to a pelleted diet, then you won't have to worry about making sure she gets all the nutrients she needs. You can still feed her fruit and veggies for fun foods, but with the pellets, she will have a very balanced, nutritious diet. Some of the things you can do to try to stop this habit are, buy a peacock feather (pet stores or household products stores) and hang it in her cage. Give her fun things to play with like a toothbrush (new of course) straws, rope, cardboard, paper, wooden craft sticks. Feed her things like corn on the cob cut in disks, green beans, mini rice cakes, apple sticks (no seeds) carrot sticks, spiniach leaves, peas in the pod. Lots of these things aren't good for greys but we're talking about a different species. My friend breeds about 8 different types of lovebirds and this periodically happens with his birds. Many times items like this will keep the birds mind off of picking its own feathers. It can be a very, very hard habit to break, and many time actually impossible to break. Many birds go on to pick thermselves naked and start to self mutilate. Lovebirds frequently do this because they're high energy birds. It is very important to find out what is wrong and stop it now. This is NOT an indication that your bird needs to have another bird to keep it company. Birds do not have to be kept in pairs....even "lovebirds" although you do have two which I assume are together. So, overpreening could be possible.This is an indication that your bird has a problem...medical or pshycological and if nothing works, a trip to a vet is necessary.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/10/20 20:25

After learning a new phrase which more than likely came from you, it's more or less physical things that you do while repeating the phrase that matches what you're saying. Example, you're leaving the house and he sees you putting your coat on and you say * see ya later* enough times, eventually when your bird sees you doing that he'll probably say that phrase before you do. They don't forget. It's just that they space them differently.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/10/18 19:48

Most of the time, greys will lose one or 2 feathers when they die. Some just lose one at a time. Sometimes, the falling out of many tail or flight feathers coincides with fact that the tail or flight feathers have died at the same time, More than likely the 1/2 feather you found was chewed with the intention of pulling it out. No, things like this aren't genetic. When you say *lost* her feathers, you mean that you found them in the tray bottom, right? Can't give you any explanation as to what direction they always grow.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/10/18 01:04

Rbpittman If you're looking for a reason or answer to your bird's plucking/chewing, you can completely rule out any type of crop burn which only happens to unweaned chicks during handfeeding. If you're taking your bird from place to place, then I'll assume that your bird is fully weaned. Check Avitech.com Look for AviCalm Calming Supplement Feather-In AntiPick Treatment Expensive but well worth the money.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/10/16 22:12

Deep voices are appealing to greys because 1---deep voices are very similar to many parrot's levels of sound. 2---usually, a man speaks a bit slower than a woman and a grey finds slow talking appealing. Your bird hasn't forgotten what you were sounding like since the reconciliation. It's just that right now, your husband's voice is new again and a grey will listen to new things very intently. Continue saying things to him from the past and you'll see many of those expressions return as soon as *the thrill is gone* concerning your husband'snew voice. Not to worry. A grey never forgets and one year is nothing to a grey. The separation was longer to you than it was for your grey.

Actually in many bird shows, they sell those rolls of paper and also try to sell holders for them that can be put wherever you like it. My birds prefer to do complex calculations on the paper before ripping it off. Unfortunately, they do those calculations in algabra and I always failed that subject in school.

And another small tip concerning smell---have an exhaust fan very near a window. It will pull the odor out of the room. If you dont't have an exhaust fan, simply take any fan, turn it around, put it next to a window and it'll act just like an exhaust fan. The smell disappears quicker. Just a suggestion here.

Thursday 10 /14 /09<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/10/15 00:14

Well, I don't know what you mean by tricks but the most important thing here is emotional contact. First make or buy a playstand. It doesn't have to be fancy. If your bird isn't a biter,physically take him out of the cage and put him on top of cage and close the door for a while. See what he does. If he doesn't react in a frantic way, repeat that whole thing over and over until he gets used to you doing it. As he relaxes more, do the same thing and put him on the stand. More than likely, he;ll fly or jump off. Pick him up and put him basck on the stand. Don't have thick types of toys hanging on the stand. A large knotted rope that's usually used for tug of war is good. Keep cage around the cage so he can see the cage but can't jump on it. If he doesn't accpt it do it again. He more than likely will take quite a while to get used to these things. If he's on the top of cage or playstand, give him a natural item to eat such as almonds. or other nuts. At first, take them out of the shell. If he eventually accepts them, give the almond unshelled. See what happens. He probably won't acept it or may just drop it, so go back to shelled nuts. It doesn't matter right now. As far as retraining the stepping up, go to a quiet enclosed room--just you and him. put him on the floor. If he's not a biter, pet the top of the feet and start pressing your finger under the foot saying step up. He probbly won't do it so repeat the whole thing on a daily basis until he gets used to you and what you're doing. If he finally steps up to your fingers and accepts it, hold him there there without lifting him in the air. Just bring him up about 10 inches. Put him back on the floor. Do the process again. Do the same lifting and start to bring him higher and higher. When he'll stay with you when you're standing, just walk around the room and put him back on the floor. Repeat again. Finally bring him slowly and steadily out of the room and put him on the playstand and give a reward---actually a couple of rewards --2 po3 3 nuts, The next day do the whole thing all over again. Idon't know what he eats but try to giva a variety of things beggies, some fruit once in a while, some pellets and asanothr treat, a warm scoop of flavored oatmeal. Just remember that you're dealing with a bird that's 10 or more years old and it WILL TAKE LOTS OF TIME. PS--if he is a biter, all of those things in that room can be first done with a small perch and he'll eventually accept your fingers Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/10/14 23:20<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/10/14 23:23

I apologise for bringing up the subject of wax paper. I just thought that others in the thread would like to know about something that would make a cage last longer. I really don't care who read it nor was I expecting some type of gold star ( karma). I simply use wax paper with newspaper on top of it because my birds have a habit of jumping in their water bowls especially after I've just given them a bath. So, I'm sorry. I promise that it won't happen again. In your heart please try to forgive my indiscretion. And especially to Dan, I realize what I've seriously done here. Understand that I do make mistakes. Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/10/14 21:09<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/10/14 21:54

Little tip take some wax paper and put in the tray. Put newspaper on it. Cage bottom will never get wet and it'll lift up when a change of newspaper is gonna happen. Prevents rust and tray keeps it's shine.

JillyBeanz wrote: Great answer and so true. Really funny:laugh:<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/10/13 21:34

That kind of a problem usually starts when a bird is relatively young and it usuually escalates if not treated. I assume that the sores are visible now. Small and large diameter perches should be placed in the cage. Flat, wide perches are also an item which stops a bird from putting the open sores flat on the perch. These types of sticks are used by breeder parrots fo better grips. Branches from the outside of different thicknesses and shapes can also provide the opportunity for better wear and the open sores don't get affected as much as a straight perch. If sores are really bad the padding of the perches should be undertaken until the sores heal. Perches can be padded with paper towels and scotch tape. Some type of toweling/fabric; care taken so it does not shred/unravel and provide an opportunity for the toenails to get caught. Severe cases, ulcerations, may require that the feet are bandaged and possibly the use of antibiotics. The vet hasn't prescribed padding the perches yet? Another thing you should do is go to a drug store and buy a tube of Hydrocortizone cream. Pick the bird up with the feet exposed. Wipe each ulcer with som e of the cream. Hold the bird for about 5 minutes before setting him down on any perch. Do this twice a day. The ulcers will get smaller and the skin will harden. Leave those different perches in the cage permanently.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2009/10/12 20:35

What I don't understand is why you're so worried about is what you use to clean out a bathroom? Does your bird hang out in the bathroom? All you should do is use a cleaner in the bathroom that kills germs and other bad things and close the door. Any smell dissapates. PLUS, keep your bird out of the bathroom until the smell goes away. If your bathroom has an exhaust fan, put it on and the smell goes away even faster.

Nails do grow and they either get trimmed by the owner or by a vet but beaks don't come into that catagory. A beak is only done if it's necessary ( meaning that the beak is overgrown). Look at it as a medical procedure. Almost all birds file their own beaks down.