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How to stop your parrot from biting!!


Calvin

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The fist of Iron is a well known method, if employed quickly enough or ahead of time to avert a serious bite from a known biter.

 

Thanks for posting this, it is a good quick example/tip of it.

 

Unfortunately, most unsuspecting people get a digit nipped good before they search for ways to avert a bite. :-)

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Just my personal opinion, but I don't use this method because I feel the reason they try to bite is that they are trying to tell you something and they have warned you enough and you haven't listened so you get bitten. I find that reading their body language can tell you heaps before you get to the point that they bite. I don't see the point of holding my hand there and opening myself up for a bite (you might have your fist there, but in a flash they have found somewhere to bite), I would rather not get to the point of them actually biting.

 

Now this isn't to say I haven't been bitten by our greys, but when I have I learnt from it and think ok what did I do to cause that and then I know for next time what they were trying to tell me and I learn from it. Our male grey doesn't even get to the point of even wanting to bite me anymore. When he has had enough he moves my hand away with his beak and I know if I don't listen the next move will be for him to bite. So I watch for the warning signals and avoid the bite.

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There are times they will bite, as when they just flew to there favorite counter top to chew up the wifeys purse. They know that counter is off-limits and as soon as you see them there you are coming to "Take them away".

 

They will bite, if they don't want to be moved. This is the time, if you know they will bite, to use the Fist of Iron and just push it steadily and easily under them stating to "Step-up. If they do bite as your hand goes under, it does not harm you and they must step up to be moved.

 

I went though several cycles of this with my Grey (maybe 20 times). Now when I say "nooo" and walk over, he just lefts his foot to step-up because he knows he is moving and wants to make it seem like he's a "Good Boy". Which I do tell him everytime he does it and I make a big deal out of it.

 

The down side.....sometimes he will fly back over just to get me to come, make him step-up and then "Praise" him. :P

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I pretty much agree with Jane. In the video, the fist is discussed. he says that the method will deter most birds from biting. He also talks about birds that will constantly lunge at a person no matter where it is, in or out of the cage.

Right now, without any bird near you, make a fist. Lok at the fist and you'll notice that no matter where your thumb is located, there are areas that are exposed. There's no where to put that thumb where it's not partially exposed. Look at your pinky. The same exact thing applies just like the thumb. Look at your knuckles. All are now pronounced and protruding. If that bird on your fist has intentions of biting, those areas are very easy to hit on and I can guarantee that I've seen this happen countless times. Another thing Jane mentions is body language. People who own greys are extremely lucky people because greys as opposed to other species of parrots give out very visible body language indications concerning what they're about to do where biting is concerned. Another good thing is that they do it consistently. They would much rather use body language then bite on the sneak. The only thing that people have to learn concerning body language biting is that they have to learn the difference between 2 forms of body language which pretty much look alike. It concerns the bird wanting to be petted as opposed to getting ready to bite. Time and experience eventually allows that person to see the subtle differences. When that biting language occurs, a person should simply turn around and walk away. That attitude of the bird usually subsides because a grey doesn't like to be ignored.

 

But the real reason for this post concerns Chet Womach. He's been around for quite a while and his past forte was usually smaller birds ( smaller than greys ). His method for dealing with all sorts of things concerning birds was using the stick in the hand method. Older videos will back up what I say.

 

Even though I can't remember exactly when it was, he was put into a position where he had to admit he in a large post ( I forget which board it was ) that he should have used better methods when making those videos.

The next thing concerns his videos programs... His whole thing is to get you to buy his so called training courses for $39.95. Many people did and on many boards, one of the big complaints is that they never received the videos after the purchase and some of these people felt that these boards should have never let his advertisements be listed.

So my purpose here is for people to watch out who they're buying from and also to make sure that they check out what other people have done for specific situations. Somewhere in that mass of information is the answer to your problem. There is no quick fix for a constant biter.

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When any of our greys fly to a position that they know they are not allowed and refuse to get down I always find something that is funnier for them and they get down quick smart because they are so curious. For our little girl I show her food and she hops right off onto my hand. Our boy grey doesn't fall for the food trick, so I go to another room and rattle a bag, talk loudly to him telling him oh look at this wow come on come and see and act like I am having fun. He can't resist and flies to see what I am doing.

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I'm on the Same page with Dave (fellow astronaut) in regards Chet Womack and all his training products.

 

I fell for his advertisements, got the video of him using sticks to "Tame" a bird....they also sign you up automatically for their crappy "Best Parrot pellets" that will come monthly at 29.95 a bag unless you call or email them and tell them to stop sending them, which I did right off the bat.

 

Chet does seem to have improved his knowledge and skill set over the last 2 years, but nothing new or earth to most of us experienced Parrot owners that have had to deal with each of our respective Parrots personalities and back grounds i.e. hand-fed versus a wild Parent raised bird.

 

You will find each Parrot responds differently for each methodology used in attempting to stop biting for all the various reasons they may elect to do so. They are all individuals and respond to different techniques.

 

The great thing about this forum, is you have the input from MANY Parrot owners with each of them responding to different tactics in different ways that hopefully will result in a solution for you and your companion Parrot. :-)

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Well I am proud to say I did not fall for Chet's ads for his video as it seemed too good to be true and he pushes it so much, bound to be something wrong with it if he has to try so hard and the emails kept coming for a while then finally stopped.

 

I have learned more here on this forum than anywhere else I have looked for information on greys, we have a ton of input and many, many knowledgeable owners who are willing to share their ideas and suggestions with us. Like Dan said one of the different ways shown by our members will result in the best solution for a particular owner's problem.;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Jane said it pretty well.

 

They have so much nuances and they do try hard to communicate that to you.

 

Problem I think is that people are looking for easy solution.

 

And the solution can be easy.

 

Pay attention to them, and treat them with respect and dignity due to fellow sentients.

 

Forget all those stuff about watching for their eyes to pin before biting. Their lunge can be lightning fast, and their pinning of eyes might be done in half a blink of an eye.

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