New grey owner needs help!

[jenb416]

Hi Everyone,

About 6 months ago I did research on all the parrots and decided I really wanted a congo african grey. Well about 3 days ago I just got him, the previous owner's father had him from the time he was 8 weeks old up until a year ago (he's 6 years old now) when she got him because I guess her dad couldn't care for him anymore. Her husband took care of him because she said she was kind of afraid of him. Their grandkids fed him and rubbed his head, and while there I rubbed his head, he did kind of "smell" me and nipped at my fingers a little. He did come out of the cage, he flew and hit a window at first but then calmed down. Her husband got him to step up onto his hand, and then "Steely"(the grey) came over to my hand, walked up my arm and stood on my shoulder and played with my hair and didn't bite anymore. I got him home and of course he was scared. He's calmed down now although when my husband comes close to the cage Steely goes crazy. I however can feed him, he takes the food very gently, and does the same when my three year old feeds him banana through the cage. The problem is he bows his head down like he wants scratched/rubbed, I rub his head for a couple seconds then he bites me and then laughs! He then puts his head down again, I rub his head and same thing after a couple seconds he bites me and laughs! I tell him "no that's not nice I'm not going to rub your head anymore if you bite!" so he puts his head down again and same thing again. Sometimes he bites me as soon as I put my finger in there. They have him on Wild Harvest Advanced Nutrition For Parrots (http://www.petsolutions.com/C/Parrots-Small-Bird-Food/I/Wild-Harvest-Bird-Food-Parrot.aspx) and then they give him some banana occasionally and crackers. Through my research I know this is not good, so I ordered some Harrison's High Potency Course and I'm hoping I'll be able to get him eating that. Also he came with a cage, but I have a huge one in storage that's like 5 1/2 ft tall, 3-4 ft wide that I'll be switching him over to in a couple weeks-I wanted to wait for him to get settled in first. However, should he also be on these seeds as well even after he switches to the pellets and is eating them good? If he should I was looking at getting one of these seed/veg mixes instead: http://www.aviannaturals.com/parrotfood_af.html is this good? Should he have access to his food all the time? If he's on pellets plus a seed mix does he also need fresh fruit/vegetables every day too? Or should he not have the seed mix every day? Also what can I do to get him to not think it's funny to bite? Should I wait until the biting stops before I open his cage and attempt to get him to step up? When he bites me I try not to jerk and act nervous but sometimes I can't help it I am kind of scared of getting bit, so far his bites haven't hurt me to puncture my skin but I know it could. He did bite my husband and draw a little blood but I think it was more because he pinched the skin more than getting the meat of his finger. Also any other tips would be great. The only birds I ever had before was pigeons and doves.

[Dave007]

First off, concerning the biting--you should check this out and remember where you saw it especially because you're a new grey owner. It's very important that you recognize different signs. This applies to young and adult greys. In the beginning, it's not unusual for a grey to try and bite. In the beginning treats should be given through the bars because the bird will eventually recognize that your hand means good things. Fear lessens.

 

http://www.greyforums.net/forums/showthread.php?109373-Body-language-most-frequently-seen

 

Getting used to things and making judgements---many people don't realize that a new pre owned bird should be left alone until it shows interest in the surrounding goings on. That means family, environment, feeding routines, daily usual family habits. A new adult bird should be in the middle of everything so he can watch every all that's going on. 3 days doesn't come close to the time needed to do these things. Everything is new to the bird and his/her only safe place is the cage he's familiar with. BTW, you're not alone in this. Hundreds of people go through the exact same situation. Greys are curious animals but you should watch for that curiosity to show up. You can't make him interested.

 

Your other cage----it's an ideal size. it should be kept in an area where he can see it for about a week( approx. amount of time). Move it closer and closer. It may take longer than 1 week.It's a process to change cages. Put some new toys and some of his old toys in it. A grey will get used to a new larger cage rather than a new smaller cage. They enjoy the space. The same method should also apply to playstands.

 

Feeding and access to food bowls/dishes--of course you should have access to them because the time is gonna come when you'll be feeding more natural foods such as veggies, some fruit etc. but those items do go bad after a few hours and need to be removed. He should have access to his food 24/7( a seed mix) because parrots don't eat like us. There is no such thing as breakfast, lunch or dinner. They eat all day whenever they want to. All parrots do this.

 

Brands of foods--I won't get into that because getting one that a parrot will like is a trial and error process. Most name brand seed mixes are good but you need to find the right kind. Right now, you should immediately try out the veggies, frozen, fresh. That's also trial and error. Greys won't like all types of veggies but you'll soon find out which kind he likes. Veggies are better than fruit. Give fruit sparingly. Don't put vitamins in his water. They get their vitamins from the food they eat. Vitamins in the water only messes up the water.

 

There's probably other things you wanna know about but for now, just digest the present info.

Edited August 30, 2013 by Dave007

[Timbersmom]

Hello and welcome to you and Steely! Like Dave said, three days is nothing to a grey. He will need lots of time to adjust to his new environment. Just let him set the pace!

[jenb416]

Thanks for the responses, like I said in the previous post, he looks at me and bows his head down like he wants petted, so that's why I do, I'm not trying to rush things. But then like I said when I do he's good for a couple seconds and then he bites laughs and then puts his head down to be petted again. While at his previous owners' house they said they thought he was taking a liking to me pretty quickly, how he came right up to my shoulder there and didn't bite. Now at home, when I'm not paying attention to him, he makes sounds and then when I look he bows down. So far I'm the only one he does this with, when other people try to come near his cage he freaks out. I was surprised how gently he takes food and everything from me through the bars and how he does let me pet him for a little bit even on the second day. His cage is in the busiest room of our house so he's being exposed to everything. Thanks for the tips about the cage transition, I hadn't even thought about that yet.

So, he should have the pellets accessible to him all the time and a seed mix as well? And then fresh fruit/veggies a couple times a day?

[Dave007]

And then fresh fruit/veggies a couple times a day?

 

Veggies yes. Fruit, only once a week. Fruit has no great value. Pellets? There's pros and cons. The basic diet should be a decent seed mix available all the time. Don't expect him t be rushing over to eat the veggies. Remove the veggies when they become soggy, very wilted. It's patience, patience, patience in everything you do. No fruit that has pits in them( example-cherries)

 

when other people try to come near his cage he freaks out.

 

Nothing unusual. It takes time for a parrot to accept people and new things. Just remember that there's a post here cocerning body language and it was put there so people could understand just what their bird is thinking, feeling and intentions. On the other hand parrots may take to everything instantly. It has to do with personality, previous stuations and the fact that he's used to another living style. Again, patience, patience, patience. Enjoy your new family addition.

Edited August 30, 2013 by Dave007

[danmcq]

GreYt posts Dave! I have nothing to add other than welcome to our forum.

[judygram]

Jen you have your work cut out for you but Dave has given you some excellent advice, remember it takes time and lots of patience when working with rehomes.

[jenb416]

So I thought everything has been going well. I started learning his moves and got to know when he was going to whip his head around to give a little bite and I haven't gotten bit (if so just barely) for a cpl days. He seems to have calmed down a lot around be and always puts his head down to be rubbed and his chest quivers. A couple days ago I got him to step up and then back down and I give him sunflower seeds as treats to get him to do it. Normally whenever he goes to step up he just puts his beak to my arm first but doesn't really bite if so he just pecks it a little then he steps up. Just a few minutes ago I got a sunflower seed, let him see it and then I went in for him to step up and he looked like he was about to but instead he lunged for my arm and bit down hard and held it for a cpl seconds that felt like an hour. I of course out of instinct screamed oww and I of course was mad and threw the sunflower seed at him which hit his forehead area and then I closed the cage and left. I realize that wasn't the best thing to do but my arm immediately bruised and I don't know what his problem is he didn't give any warning. Now I feel like a kid that fell off a bike and I don't wanna get back on again because that sucker hurt. And hes just sitting there acting like nothing happened the little brat.

[Dave007]

******I realize that wasn't the best thing to do but my arm immediately bruised and I don't know what his problem is he didn't give any warning.******

 

Yes he did. That's why you need to study body language. It takes a while to study what your bird is doing.

[judygram]

That last time you offered him a sunflower seed as enticement to step up was you putting your hand inside his cage? Greys can be territorial about their cages and not like you sticking your hand inside, its best to let him come out and then try it. Just remember they use their beaks like we use our hands and arms, its their way of telling you they don't like something and everyone gets bit from time to time and usually its our own fault for not reading their body language correctly but if you are going to share your home with a parrot then you better get used to a nip or bite from time to time, I know it hurts but just don't take it personally as its just their natural instinct to do so.

[jenb416]

Yes every time it's been in his cage. I haven't taken him out of his cage yet because I've only had him for about 2 weeks and I'm scared I won't be able to get him back in at this point if I let him out I was going to try to work with him some first.

[kins2321@yahoo.com]

I would suggest open the cage, let bird step on the door. Learn stepup off the door.Don;t be scared of your bird. They are more scared of you! Nancy

[Timbersmom]

Sadly true that getting bitten is the norm for most parrot owners. Many of the members here who have had their birds many years and are usually pretty good at "avoiding the beak" get caught once in awhile. I've had Timber over a year now. I don't get bitten nearly as often now as when I first got him, but he still surprises me once in awhile. It's easy to miss a hint or misread their body language when you are in a hurry even after you have been at it awhile. Yes, it's hard not to be angry and hurt when it happens. Like Judy said, don't take it personally! For most of us, it is just part of owning a parrot. Hang in there!

[Timbersmom]

I'll also add that sticking my hand or arm in Timber's cage is an invitation for a bite. I understand your fear of not being able to get him back in, but a lot of birds don't want their space (cage) invaded and react to it. They need to feel like the cage is their safe place. Like Nancy, I would suggest that you wait to try for a step up until he is out of the cage.

[Luvparrots]

I have a zon that I can't touch and he will not step up. He is a biter. I can however get him in and out of his cage without touching him. Their cages are usually their 'safe house' and where there is food and water always. Louie, the zon, will go in and out has I ask because I do not threaten him. So let your grey out. If for some reason he does not go back in all you have to do is turn off the lights and darken the room (close the blinds) you can catch your grey then. They usually do not move around in the dark.

Edited September 10, 2013 by luvparrots

[jenb416]

Ok thanks for all the replies. I will open the door and see what happens tomorrow. I just wasn't sure if I should have him out yet or not because his wings are not clipped and honestly I'm still a little scared of him and I don't want him to get hurt or anything. When the prev owners had let him out when he first came out of the cage there he flew for a window and hit it, then he flew behind their couch and knocked a picture down and then flew to the other side of the room and ran into a wall and ended up between the wall and a chair but when I went over to him there and held my hand out he had stepped up and acted fine didn't bite or anything but now he seems like a different bird since I brought him home so I'm not sure if he'll put up a fight here or not. My confidence had grew and I thought I was ok until the big bite and now it's like starting all over again.

[Timbersmom]

If he is calm and there isn't any activity going around when he comes out, I wouldn't think he would fly wildly. That usually happens when they are scared or startled. Usually when they fly they have a destination in mind. No guarantees though! I'd make sure his room is quiet and there isn't a chance of him startling when he come out. Make sure you don't make sudden moves, raise your voice etc. initially. I have no experience with a fully flighted bird though, so wait for some of the more experienced grey owners to chime in! You need to control your fear, he can sense that. It doesn't promote trust. Most of us have to prepare ourselves for the fact that we will get bit. Maybe not today, tomorrow, or this month, but it will happen and that is especially true when you first bring them home. You have to be prepared to grit your teeth and withstand the pain until you can get them safely to a perch and off of you. Sounds hard? It is. You can't just fling them off which is the first instinct, because that could injure or kill them. The more excited you get, the more excited they get. Ideally, you grit your teeth, show no reaction, and do your crying in another room There are other suggestions in other threads, and I'd encourage you to do a lot of reading. It has helped me a lot. I kept a small wooden dowel near at all times. I'd use it to distract him and get him to detach from my arm or hand. Then I'd go in the bathroom alone, voice my displeasure alone, soak up the blood and cleanse the wounds. I don't want to make it sound worse than it is, but Timber doesn't let go until blood is drawn if he is seriously upset. If you are fortunate, you will just get the pinching bruise.

[danmcq]

Great replies by all.Only one thing to add in regards flight and perhaps crashing in to a window or mirror. Close blinds, cover mirrors or even put parial see through stickies on them so it will be obvious it is not an opening. It takes them a while to "Know" what a window is and where they are in a new home. Plus, I suspect your grey probably did not get a lot of flight time and taking quick banks, hovering etc. have probably not been perfected yet. It takes many flights and time for a bird to learn all the critical flight skills to avoid obstacles and crashes.

[Luvparrots]

Have you ever seen the gel stickers. They can be removed and reapplied easily. I have them on me patio door and large windows.

[shanlung]

Consider giving your birdie the best of food to be given a birdie,

See how it is made with love and care.

Do your birdie deserved that too?

 

Tinkerbell Mash

http://shanlung.livejournal.com/109957.html

[katana600]

You are off to a pretty good start even though you feel a little shaken in the confidence department. Take one day at a time and gradually you will get to know his body language and preferences. Depending on what his early years were like and his individual temperment, it will be a while before you really see trust and predictable results. You have something going for you in that he seems to have chosen you. He will have some nervousness and will be cautious in his new home. One thing I learned early on with our rehomed Timneh, Miss Gilbert is the grey is a very subtle companion. If they try to give us a warning, which may be as subtle as the position of his head or his eyes and we don't seem to take his advice, a bite will surely get our attention. He is still getting the lay of the land so the best way you can train him not to bite is to avoid giving him the opportunity. With some other species of animals, if you make friends with them early on, it goes well. With a grey, it is a process of gaining trust and a slow dance of give and take on grey time. You have lots of time, give him bribes. If he likes a snack through the bars, find something like pine nuts, almonds cut into small bites and other healthy things you can give to him often. He will associate you coming near his cage with good things. As the others have said, it is tough not to take it personally when he draws blood, but give him the grace to allow you to back away and he will get curious to come toward you.