tarm Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 Do you have it on a set timing for sun up and down? Are you using the less powerful florescent or the more powerful Mercury Vapor floods? For those that are using them what kind of schedule do you have them on? on and off times? How far away from the cage top? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayd Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 tarm? Have you seen Welcome, PROSPECTIVE and NEW GREY Owner's.. this thread: http://www.greyforums.net/forums/showthread.php?190489-Welcome-PROSPECTIVE-and-NEW-GREY-Owner-s.. http://www.greyforums.net/forums/sho...lighting-Again Jayd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tarm Posted August 1, 2010 Author Share Posted August 1, 2010 (edited) Thanks yes I had read those, actually a number of times as I retain it better that way. I read them all again just to make sure I did not miss what I was looking for some how since you posted them. Actually though, I was looking for a bit more in-depth info and possibly generate some discussion. . Such as the reason I was asking about distance and type of bulbs as it greatly effects exposure. For example, moving the UV light half the distance or increasing the height of the basking area (if appropriate) will square the intensity of the UV by a factor equal to half the distance the light is from the bird. In other words if the bird general area is 20 in from the UV source and you move the bulb 10 inches closer (or raise the perch) the bird will get 100 times as much UV. Thus the question. You obviously also need to know the the output power of the bulb. So you can go from not getting enough to do much of anything to getting plenty depending also on length of exposure. My question about florescent versus the flood Mercury vapor versions that tend to also produce heat is because D3 production efficiency has been shown to have a direct link to temperature. Warmer increasing efficiency. Thus again the type of lighting chosen and well as its distance are important factors. As for start and finish time I had wondered given these are equatorial birds there day light is roughly 12 hrs. Even if they do spend some or significant time in shaded areas. Even these areas are getting more uv exposure than given by lamps depending on height and power. Certainly many times more than being indoors in which almost all UV light is filtered out. Compared to full sun areas frankly nothing can fully substitute but certainly UV bulbs go a long way. AS UVB tend to also have microbial killing effects I was wondering if there was any info out there about this effect linking it to plucking issues. ALso in searching the net I came across a interesting study on African Greys http://www.avianmedicine.net/articles/stan-uv.doc and http://www.avianmedicine.net/articles/calcium-vet-record.doc I found it interesting that ionized calcium instead of total calcium is what needs to be monitored in accessing issues. I did not know how well know this info was or whether it is info is fully agreed upon. Also does anyone know if our Greys can store D3 for later use the way a number of other animals can or is it something that has a short useful life in a birds system? But as far as UV exposure short of an out door aviary indoor supplementation is needed. I figure we woudl want to get close to the exposure they have in nature. But since there is no way we will be duplicating the intensity of equatorial sun exposure we want to at least get enough to allow for full processing of D3 going over somewhat would seem prudent to ensure proper exposure is reached. As there is no harm in to much D3 creation as from what I understand any surplus is turned into harmless D3 to two biologically inactive compounds. So no need to be concerned with hypervitaminosis of D such as is the case when its given supplementary thru diet. An area where UV supplementation has been study extensively with indoor care of pets is the reptile trade. Likely more than for any other group of animal. While these are very different creatures many tend to come from the same regions and thus much of there data for comparable exposure can be helpful. From bone development, pigment color and intensity, behaviors, food selection, prevention of skin disorders and microorganism infestations. I did read one zoo creator I think it was state that one rough guide for judging enough UV exposure was the new paper should turn yellow within a day. Go figured I guess if works for him. Edited August 1, 2010 by tarm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayd Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 Here's the other thread I was looking for!!!http://www.greyforums.net/forums/showthread.php?188081-Calcium-Food-or-Sun&highlight=calcium... Danmcq is knowledgeable on this subject.....Jayd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tarm Posted August 2, 2010 Author Share Posted August 2, 2010 thanks. I will read it. Maybe Dan will weigh in with some more info. Thanks for this though. I am wanting to make sure I get what will end up working out the best. After all the best time to work these things out is before you have bought something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tarm Posted August 2, 2010 Author Share Posted August 2, 2010 I messed up and clicked forward a page and lost my post. The one question I did have was one post in the thread you linked above stated Greys produce a active form of D3 on their feathers from sun exposure and that is eaten during preening by them. I had not heard of this before. Is it from you understanding accurate? I had always though it was from the absorption of the UVB rays thru the exposed skin which is around the facial region that caused D3 to be made from its precursors present already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayd Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 tarm, I don't remember the post exactly, I'll go over it tomorrow, a Grey has oil gland near their their tail that they use to preen their fathers, this oil gets on their skin and promotes D3 absorption. Tomorrow afternoon I'll post some links for you. I always admire a person who does research before a purchase....Thank you Jayd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danmcq Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 (edited) I'm at work, so answers will be short. I run my own home-built flourescents 12 hours a day year round. They are dual tube electronic ballast and 24 inch fixtures. I run 2 36 watt tubes. They are hung from the ceiling with adjustable chains and are set at 20 inches from the tops of the cages and centered. The tubes are lumichrome 1xx Full spectrum with both UVA and UVB output. You can see the data on these at http://www.truesun.com/proddetail.php?prod=Lumichrome_1XX_full_spectrum_light I change the tubes once a year. The vitamin D3 is produce as you posited from the facial skin exposure to the sun or lighting. I take my birds outside in the summer and on warm winter days for 2 to 4 hours each day when possible. There is nothing better than true sunlight. But, Full Spectrum fluorescent lighting with the UV components is better than any normal indoor lighting and keeps the production of D3 going in the short days of winter when outside trips are not feasible often. I have a very detailed thread on this I wrote about 3 years. I did a quick search of the forum and cannot find it. I'll try looking for it later when I have time. It is a 3 part article on this subject. Went back to work and remembered something VERY important on lamp closeness (Funny how the subconscious mind keeps on ticking). Some people place the stand type lamps too close to the cage and at a horizontal, rather than vertical lighting direction. Over time, this results in blinding of the bird and also sunburn. It's better to run farther away, from above and for longer periods, such as 12 hours. Edited August 3, 2010 by danmcq Quick import note on closeness of lighting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayd Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 (edited) I hope Dan can find his missing thread......Another site to check out.....http://www.exoticpetvet.net/avian/uropygial.html The gland secretion is complex and consists of a combination of extruded cells, ester waxes, fatty acids, fat and sudanophilic secretory granules.1,2 The secretion is spread over the feathers during the act of preening. Waterproofing is considered to be one function of the secretion (although it is not necessary for it), and another function is the suppression of the growth of organisms on the skin. The secretion helps keep the feathers, beak, and scales supple. The secretion from the uropygial gland also contains vitamin D precursors that are also spread over the feathers by preening. With exposure to the ultraviolet portion of sunlight, the secretions are converted to an active form, vitamin D3, which is then ingested with subsequent preening.3 Thanks Jay Dave is also very knowledgeable about this subject!!! Edited August 2, 2010 by Jayd forgot Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tarm Posted August 3, 2010 Author Share Posted August 3, 2010 Dan and Jay thanks. Thank you for taking the time to post your setup and links, it is very helpful. I hope you can find that post. I will try looking as well as I am rather good at finding stuff like that. I would never dream of putting the light horizontal but thank you just the same as you never do know what a person may think up. Jay your comment about the oil gland is likely what the poster was getting at but did not word it clearly. I know I ask a lot of questions and tend to run on when I post bla bla bla. I want to fully understand the technicals of the whys, hows, and whats of it all. I find it important for me. In doing this its the only way to really start to understand how it all comes together and works and to that end I can be sure to be doing the best. As I am fairly new here I don't wish to come off as being a PITA. I very much appreciate you all taking the time to offer up the info you have from your experience and knowledge. I am sure many much rather enjoy simply sharing their experiences about there fids and this stuff can cause headaches and seem rather dry. The more I know and understand the greater the experience. Thanks again. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danmcq Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 I finally found the old thread that contains many user comments and then a 3 part overview I did of Avian lighting starting on around page 4. I made it a sticky in the main grey forum. http://www.greyforums.net/forums/showthread.php?47809-lighting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tarm Posted August 4, 2010 Author Share Posted August 4, 2010 Thanks` I will read it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spock Posted August 10, 2010 Share Posted August 10, 2010 (edited) Locally, we can't get Avian screw-in type UV Full-spectrum bulbs, so I sent off an email to Zoo Med. Here is their reply...Very Nice.... Thank you for contacting us. The Reptisun 5.0 is actually exactly the same as the Avian Sun 5.0 bulb. You can use the Reptisun 5.0 in place of the Avian Sun 5.0 as long as you follow the instructions that come with the Avian Sun bulb. For your convenience, I have included a pdf copy of these instructions as an attachment. Please let me know if you have any further questions. Kind regards, Ashley Rademacher Customer Service Zoo Med Labs, Inc. 3650 Sacramento Dr. San Luis Obispo CA 93401 Toll Free 888-496-6633 Fax 805-542-9295 http://www.zoomed.com/db/products/Search.php?SearchID=2&DatabaseID=2&Keywords=Lighting&Heading=Avian&Search.x=13&Search.y=16 Edited August 10, 2010 by Spock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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