M2MM

Glad to hear it! Best of luck in your search! {Communicate-0002011B}

{Communicate-00020121} Glad you could join us!

Thanks LMG! I did a little preliminary search, but didn't find that thread prior to posting here. If you'd like to move my post to that thread, I'm good with that.

In the interests of all Greys and their human companions, I have compiled my reading list. I actually read and own every book you see here, and have categorized them according to My Opinion on their contents. Enjoy! My favourite books include: For the Love of Greys (Bobbi Brinker) Guide to a Well-Behaved Parrot (Barron's) The Parrot Who Owns Me (Joanna Burger, Ornithologist) Sally Blanchard's Companion Parrot Handbook (aka The Happy Bappy Fun Book) Good Bird! (Barbara Heidenreich) The Parrot Problem Solver (Barbara Heidenreich) These books will not only give you a lot of excellent information, but will also give you an idea about what living with a bird is like. (particularly: "The Parrot Who Owns Me" ) Books of interest: (worth at least a good browsing) The African Grey Parrot Handbook (Barron's) The Alex Studies (Irene Pepperberg) Birds on the Couch(Ruth Hanessian) The Essential African Grey (Pamela Leis Higdon) Guide to Companion Parrot Behaviour (Barron's) Keeping African Grey Parrots (David Alderton) My Parrot, My Friend (Doane & Qualkinbush) Pampering Polly (Terri Ann King) Parrot-toys & Play Areas (D'Arezzo & Shannon-Nunn) The Pleasure of Their Company, An Owner's Guide to Parrot Training (Bonnie Munro Doane) The Second-hand Parrot (Barron's) Why Does My Bird Do That? (Julie Rach Mancini) Parrots For Dummies Reference Books:(it's always good to know what your avian vet is talking about) Avian Medicine (Tully, Lawton, Dorrestein) Exotic Animal Formulary, Second Edition First Aid for Birds (Julie Rach) Manual of Ornithology, Avian Structure & Function (Proctor & Lynch) The Parrot in Health and Illness (Bonnie Munro Doane)

Welcome Lyn! Sounds like you are getting on well with your Grey. Generally, Congo AGs start talking at a year old, and Timnehs (smaller type) Greys at about 6 months. Not all Greys will talk, but chances are that they will, IF you talk to them. Have a good read through the threads and don't be afraid to ask questions. That's why this site exists.

I was also shy initially when handling Kumiko, until I saw how our vet could handle him so easily. It just takes a little confidence, and letting them know that you aren't afraid of them. I use a "Buddy Perch" when Kumiko (or Sunny our nippy parrotlet) decide to be difficult. Here's a link, if you are interested: http://www.4zbirds.com/buddyperch.html The 1" size is perfect for Greys.

This is my favourite comic - the recurring character of Pilsner (the parrot) is just too funny. I think the writer must know a parrot or maybe he's owned by one.

Oh my! You will have your hands full! A CAG and a Too? {Communicate-00020110}

I have a bird who is terrified of hand-held perches and of hands in general. We get him to step up by hiding our hands inside our sleeves and offering the sleeve for step-ups. It's not the end of the world if a bird is hesitant to step-up and you really shouldn't push them to do it so quickly. Give him time and a little "space" to get used to things, and when he is ready, he will do it without having to push him. Just my opinion, based on personal experience.

Bird pee is clear like water, urates are white or slightly yellow, and their stools vary in colour from green to brown (depending on their food). It's diarrhea if there is no "solid" part to their poop. True diarrhea is runny poop (poop coloured, but in liquid form) and can be caused by any number of ailments - and should be treated by a vet (preferably avian) asap. Is your bird eating a lot of fruit? That can cause their poops to be very soft.

That vet should be SHOT (IMO)! What an idiot! The owner should NEVER hold the bird during any procedure, and the vet should NEVER lose his temper in front of an animal for ANY reason. My vets are what I call BIRD-FRIENDLY - I don't know if they are necessarily certified avian vets, but they know they medicine, and are super sweet with birds. That's what's important after all. They also have sufficient, and properly trained staff to be their assistants. The water spraying method is totally out-dated, so this guy's knowledge is too old to be usable. Don't spray your bird for plucking! Don't walk away from her. BUT, you should ignore the plucking. If it's due to irritation, get some Bird Soother Spray (an aloe/water mix with a topical anesthesia that's specific for birds). Apply only to the affected area (instructions are on the bottle), but if you can't get that, use an aloe juice/water mix (50/50) and gently spray the entire bird. Treat your bird as you normally do. Take her out, play with her, let her run around on her tree in the kitchen. It's when we treat them differently that we can cause/maintain a lot of their "neurotic" behaviours. I have a parrotlet that plucks, but it's caused by a medical condition (elevated liver enzymes that we can't seem to get under control regardless of medications and other treatments.) So, I still medicate him, but treat him as I would normally. He is healthy otherwise. He gets lots of good food and enjoys his life regardless of his condition. We used to keep cockatiels and had to pluck feathers on them occasionally. They don't like it, of course, but they got over it quick enough. Get yourself a pair of locking forceps (eBay, hardware store, & medical supply stores carry them) this tool is much easier to use on a broken blood feather than needle nosed pliers which can be clumsy. Learn to towel your bird (if you don't know how yet), it's an essential skill when you keep a bird. Try YouTube - they have some good instructional videos about procedures for handling birds. Sorry to ramble on so. I hope you succeed in finding a GOOD vet (avian certified or just avian friendly), your Gray deserves the best you can find. Good luck!

This is my favourite baby picture of Kumiko. He was only about 6 months old. {Love-000200BF}<br><br>Post edited by: M2MM, at: 2008/06/27 05:33

Bad breath in a parrot may indicate a crop infection. Get him checked by the vet asap.

judygram wrote: Agriculture Canada is very protective, due to past mistakes, so they have gone completely over to the closed door policy. No "foreign" seeds/nuts that have even the slightest possibility of germinating unless they are highly processed and packaged (like flower and vegetable seeds.) The processed oil is fine, so long as it's packaged & labeled appropriately. We can't even bring fruit or vegetables of any kind over the US/Canada border. Only wholesalers are allowed to import produce and they have to meet pretty strict criteria. It may seem ridiculous, but they have their reasons.

steph wrote: You need to talk to him A LOT and with enthusiasm (that gets the best results.) You also need to keep in mind that some birds never talk. Just be happy with him the way he is, and if he's going to talk, he will. Some day you may wish he had an on/off switch. {Nature-00020095}

I use Jergen's Anti-Bacterial Lotion for my clawed up and chomped on hands. It really helps them feel better. I really need to get Kumiko's claws done, he keeps sharpening them (I catch him chewing on them a lot, and everyday they feel sharper.) {Feel-bad-00020080}

What a beautiful little animal. They are my favourite lizard - it's the cat of reptiles! {Love-000200BF}

I wouldn't recommend giving a bird cookies. Fortune cookies are very high in processed sugar and highly refined flour (also fat). Best keep those to yourselves. But, if your bird does manage to steal a crumb, don't fight him for it.

Our birds all have small sleep cages in our bedroom. They seem to be much happier there, knowing we are nearby and ready the "rescue" them if they get scared. They are also completely covered up with a nice thick blanket each to cut out all light. The only "upset" we've had since doing this was our rescued parrotlet's first week of getting used to this arrangement. When we came to bed that first night, he alarm called until we uncovered the front of his cage and told him everything was okay, and not to worry, it was only us coming to bed. Nothing has happened since. I'm a light sleeper, and have heard them moving about a bit, scratching, and ruffling feathers, but no other upsets since that one night.

I live in an semi-rural area with plenty of predatory birds. For this reason, Kumiko does his flying indoors. In actuality, if there are hawks around, there is a big risk of your grey being attacked. Some hawks are so nervy that they will swoop down to steal your bird right off your arm. Always be especially watchful whenever you are outside with your Grey, even when you don't see any raptors or crows/ravens.

You have lovely bird. It's nice to see that you are excited to have him. I'm sure your enthusiasm will make him feel very special.

I read recently that you have to cook all beans in a "rolling boil bath" drain and rinse prior to feeding. The article also said to never slow-cook beans as this doesn't remove the toxic elements. :ohmy:

I feed Kumiko red palm oil every night before bed. I mix it into organic cooked, stained yams and feed with a syringe (keeps him liking the syringe in case I ever have to medicate him). I buy the palm oil from "Tropical Traditions" in the USA. Agriculture Canada won't allow palm nuts into the country, but have no problem with processed palm oil. <br><br>Post edited by: M2MM, at: 2008/06/26 22:33

Greys can differ in size and build so much that it's best to let your vet determine the "ideal" weight for your Grey. Rule of thumb: If the keel bone (breast bone) is prominent but has a good amount of muscle on either side, then they are a healthy weight. If the surrounding muscle is minimal, then they are on the thin side. And, if the keel bone is hard to find/feel, then they are probably too fat.

Kumiko weighs 300 grams at the start of the day. No matter how much he eats, his weight stays pretty much the same. (He gets a lot of exercise.)