M2MM

I'd like to answer with a real life experience.... We birdysat a young Grey (female) last summer for about 7 weeks. She fit in right away and had a good time. When he daddy came home and picked her up, she was so happy to see him that she "glued" herself to his shoulder and couldn't get enough head scritches from him. He had been very concerned that she would forget him after such a long absence, but she remembered him alright! I don't think you have anything to worry about.

Regardless of a breeder's claims that a bird is fully weaned, they really aren't until they are nearly a year old. You will still need to guide your baby in what is good and safe to eat. So be prepared to teach by demonstration. In rehabilitating an 8-month-old CAG (now 4 1/2 years old) who arrived eating only sunflower seeds, I found that the best way to get him eating other foods was to sit down with him and eat a very similar meal (chopped veggies and fruit, along with birdy bread) and prove to him that it was good and safe (plan on making "yummy" noises while eating.) Don't share from your own dish, but offer him a separate bowl/dish with the same foods in it. Feeding Greys is a great way to get yourself eating healthier, too. BTW, one important piece of equipment is a digital scale (postal scale size) for frequent weighings to ensure that your baby is maintaining his/her weight once you have him/her at home. Be sure to find a good avian vet and get your bird examined asap after homecoming (aka "new bird examination").

So sweet! (I'm getting cavities )

Quickdood wrote: I can only answer from my own experience, but Kumiko (a Timneh African Grey) gets a minimum of 12 hours in his covered sleeping cage. He will typically only take very short cat naps, but that's probably due to the fact that he gets a full night's sleep. If yours doesn't get a full 12 hours in one go, then he will probably make good use of his quiet days and take naps. Birds do adapt, but we mustn't expect too much from them. <br><br>Post edited by: M2MM, at: 2008/08/14 23:07

I must have the only Grey (TAG) that doesn't dunk or make parrot soup. I keep the pellets on the other side of the cage and he's too "lazy" to take the pellets all the way over to the water bowl. However, my parrotlets make pellet soup each and everyday. :laugh:

the_mask86 wrote: No worries there, he could be craving vitamin A (carotene from carrots.) But, if you want him to eat more of a variety, then give him only just enough food for one "sitting." I used to give my TAG a large bowl of fresh foods, only to have him pick and choose his favourites. My vet (and others) advised that I cut down on the amount of food offered to encourage him to at least try everything. I prepare more than he needs, but only serve "just enough" for one meal, leaving the rest in the fridge to replenish his bowl from. Works like a charm.

At 20 weeks old, there's no chance that the behaviour is aggression, it must be excitement and anticipation of being fed. I use the microwave to warm food all the time, but I also mix it thoroughly being heat-testing it on the inside of my forearm. If you can barely feel it, then it's "just right." (Like the way you see people test baby bottle contents in movies.)

I don't think feeding them insects is the best idea, but if he ate one of his own volition, I wouldn't stop him. (Kumiko gets spooked by tiny spiders, so there's no fear of him turning insectivore.)

I've offered pablum (baby oatmeal), but Kumiko didn't care for it. If you can get your bird to try it, then go for it!

Welcome! The only real drawback I can see is that Greys need about 12 hours of sleep, so this only leaves you about an hour to interact with your Grey. I assume that you are away for 11 hours due, in part, to a long commute. What are your weekends like? Greys need a fair amount of attention, so will you be able to give him more time on the weekend? Glad you're doing your research in advance. Good on you! B)

I hand fed Kumiko until he was 13 months old (started a month after his arrival, when he started going downhill fast, and only after the vet advised it.) I didn't originally expect to be feeding him so long, but he wouldn't give it up, and absolutely refused to feed himself. It took another month to get him back to feeding himself (with the vet's help and advice) and now he still gets a small bedtime feed (by syringe) of strained yam with red palm oil. I do this only to ensure that he gets sufficient vitamin A, and to keep him accustomed to the syringe (for future medicating purposes). Lately, he's been a reluctant about taking the syringe, so I've drop the amount he gets, yet again. He wants what is in the syringe, but seems to not like my methods anymore. :side:

I have two DVDs: The Birdsitter DVD: Parrots in a large aviary setting (filmed at the California "Parrot University"), this dvd is made by the same people that developed "The Aviator" flying harness. They show a huge variety of captive bred parrots including: cockatoos, hyacinths, B&G, Red Wings, CAGs, Quakers, Amazons, Eckies, and many others I can't name. PollyVision Strictly for Parrots DVD: Parrots in the wild including: Australian parrots, Macaws & Amazons, and African Greys. This one is made by/for the World Parrot Trust. Proceeds go to their conservation projects. They both make interesting viewing for parrots and parronts alike. I highly recommend both of them.

Sorry about your dog. I use the BIRD SITTER DVD to keep my TAG from being too unhappy when I have to go out. It's a video that loops automatically, and there are lots of parrots of every variety, so it's good for almost all parrots (my parrotlets don't like it, as there are no wee birds in the vid.) As for painting, I would recommend that your bird stay overnight somewhere, even the mildest paint has some fumes. OR, house your bird far away from the room in question, close the door and paint after birdy bedtime. Keep the bathroom window open or the exhaust fan running non-stop.

My avian vet recommends Bird Soother Spray (a sterile aloe/water solution with a topical anesthetic.) It really helps my parrotlet, who plucks to relieve his irritation caused by elevated liver enzymes (under treatment).

If something "good" gets pooped on (like the brand new shirt/blouse I put on this morning), I clean it immediately with those baby wipes people use for diaper change clean-ups. They do a bang-up job, and saves me have to get the item-in-question drycleaned (silk, wool, etc.) That said, most poops do not stain (except maybe on white cotton). Most times if it's left to dry, you can pull off the poop part and then just wash as usual. If the poop gets ground in by accident, then prespray with poop-off before tossing into the washer.

Here's Kumiko (TAG) @6 weeks old. :kiss: <br><br>Post edited by: M2MM, at: 2008/07/26 09:02

Very sorry to hear of your loss. It's hard enough to have them escape, but to also know that they didn't survive is really heart rending. At least this gives you closure and you can grieve. My sincerest condolences.

Personally, I think the "dominance" theory is just that: THEORY My TAG has always perched on my shoulder and will occasionally fuss about being taken off, but always complies in the end. He just wants to be close to me. I don't look at him when he's perched there, so he knows that if he wants "face time" (and they always do), he MUST perch on my arm, or hand. He generally only want the shoulder for transportation purposes and to watch something I'm doing that requires both of my hands.

If your bird is eating healthy foods and getting plenty of exercise (flying and climbing around in his cage/gym) then it's not really possible to overfeed him. However, if all he does is sit and eat, then you need to monitor his weight to be sure that he's not just packing on the fat! (a good digital postal scale - in grams - will do the trick)

Our Grey is terrified of the vacuum cleaner (ACK! BIG NOISY MONSTER!!!), so he's quite happy to stay locked up in his cage whenever I have to vacuum. All other cleaning waits until they are all safe tucked away in their sleep cages at night, then the real cleaning begins. We do it every night, so the workload is a lot lighter than if we only cleaned once a week or so.

If you are really concerned, you can get some of those face "masks" they use in hospitals to prevent sneeze and coughing "spray" from getting to your bird(s). I've done this myself.... and it's interesting how quickly your bird will get accustomed to seeing you dressed this way. Kumiko just looks at me funny at first, then acts like I always wear it. :cheer:

I know a fellow that did carpet cleaning for a living, and he said the best carpet cleaner was vinegar and hot water - no detergent. All his customers were very pleased with the results and no one's animals ever got sick.

I've been told by other Grey owners (with many more years experience) that this scratching in the bottom of their cages is foraging behaviour, and it's so instinctive, that they will do it "just because."<br><br>Post edited by: M2MM, at: 2008/07/21 04:16

Pellets MAY have 100% of their required vitamins, but they do NOT give them everything they need. They lack enzymes and trace elements (& roughage) that can only come from fresh fruit and vegetables. IMO, Greys need a diet comprised of 25% pellets, 75% fresh foods (dark green vegies, dark orange colored vegetables (yam, squash, carrots, etc.), tropical fruits (papaya, mango, pomegranate, etc.) & melons, peas, corn, cooked whole grains, sprouted seeds, and cooked mixed beans.) Treats may consist of unroasted almonds, walnuts, cashews, pistachios, hazelnuts, and fresh domestic fruit. In addition, snacks like wholemeal toast with almond butter, hard-cooked eggs, and healthy people food are also welcome in their diets. If all we fed were these "complete diet" pellets, our birds would die of boredom. Variety is the spice of life! Without variety, we can't possibly consider their diets balanced. OK, soapbox is put away now. :lol: Fresh vegetables are generally best offered first thing in the morning when they are their hungriest; pellets for the majority of the day; and finally fresh fruit and seed-type foods at the end of the day. So, you are already well on your way, with a few minor adjustments.

Sorry Steve, I don't see a photo here. I checked your profile too and don't see your Alfie. :unsure: