Big_Squishy

I would agree, that lots of out of cage time is ok, I do think that if you know you are going to have days where you will be away from home for extended periods of time that you allow your companion to get use to that. Everything I read and all that I have seen in my own CAG sugest that our companions are creatures of habit. Most take change poorly unless it is slowly brought about. With BoBo he is normally brough out of his cage after my Wife to Be gets home from taking my son to school. We will not leave him out of his cage unattended. he returns to the cage when she leaves to pick my son up from school and will stay there until I get home so for about 3 hours or so. As soon as I get home and shower I bring BoBo out and we spend some time playing. Weekends if we are able to sleep-in BoBo will end up in his cage until after breakfast is cooked and then brought out to eat with us. He really enjoys that time and I think it is helping to get him to vocalize more, he gets very excited and seems to try to invent new whistles to get our attention so we will bring him out and give him our food. When we bought BoBo we did everything in one day. I BoBo, his cage, food , toys the whole nine yeards. I believe I spent about $200.00 on just the toys. We could not get BoBo to touch a single one of them. I felt like I picked all of the wrong stuff. However, after some advice from the wonderful people here. I began to just carry around one of the toys and play with it. I fiddled with it while I was holding BoBo but never let him touch it. After that he would do everything he could to try to get the toy. It has worked for almost all of them. Keep trying and do not do over get down because what you thought should work didn't. I bet with time most anything you do repeatedly will be acceptable to your bird. Sorry to sit here and babble. V/r JC

I bought my grey from a place called ' Our feathered friends' in san Diego Ca. They also have a larger store in Escindido Ca. called " A bird haven" Would research breeders in your area and look into their practices and record. best information I can offer. Oh and it is always nice if you are getting a baby to find the breeder or store that will be close enough to allow you to visit on a regular basis while weening, JC

I am very sorry to hear of your loss. My prayers and best wishes to you. Very Respectfully, JC

Welcome Smaryan!!! I can tell you that My wife to be has the same problem, however, our bird BoBo always trys to bite here and we have had him for 5 months. It will take alot of work. I have read that there could be a million reasons your bird might have that reaction to someone, perfume, color of shirt, how big someone is, how fast they move, does he jerk his hand away when Lucy trys to bite him?? no matter what the cause time and patience will pay off, Everyone who posted above really kow their stuff, most of what i have to say they have already told me lol. V/r JC

cflanny wrote: I believe Cflanny is refering to the reccomendation of many books to place a cage in a corner of a room to give your bird a place to back in to that will allow it to relax knowing nothing can come up behind it. I also believe she is asking that since she does not have a corner to place the cage in , would it hurt to blanket off a corner to get that comfort zone. The only problem I see with useing a blanket is that sound will still go through the cloth, it is also able to move or be moved by wind or someone passing by it. This might open more opertunity to scare your new friend because now they can hear movement but can not see where it is commming from. If you house is very active then I certainly believe you should have the cage in a common room where the majority of the interaction takes place, however I would do as sugested above and try to prevent the cage from being bumped into. As far as toys, you definatly do not want to completely clutter the cage with toys and too many perches. Our young friends are rather clumsy and have a tendancy to fall off thier perches. My opinion is to place all of the toys you want into the cage. Then look to see if any of them might crowd a perch or if the bird might hit or get hung up on any of them if it fell. Remove or relocate those that need them. Also you have no idea which toys your new companion will take to, so offer them up see which it is attracted to most and remove some of the ones it seems to ignor. I hope this helps. I am still new at this. V/r JC

Sweet thank you very much. BoBo was hatched 2 Feb 2008 Sep so he is just over 7 months old. BoBo will walk back and forth on my sholders but does not climb all over me. Maybe I should try wearing a shirt I don't care if he nips a billion holes in. That might be part of why he restricts him movement on me. I only have so many shirts I can wear in public. lol Thank you very much, If there are more sugestions i am welcome to them all and will apply every bit that is possible. V/r JC

BoBo will hang from everything but me. Once I am holding him he wants to stay right where he is. Thank you for the responce. V/r JC

I will have to try that. BoBo does not hang from my fingers even though I would love for him to do that as well. Thank you for the input and I will see how I might apply that at home. V/R JC

I would like to know how I might go about training BoBo (CAG 7 months) to lay on his back in my hand or the crook of my arm?? I adore this behavior and believe that my attempts if not done right nay be counter productive and damaging to his trust for me?? Might I get some sugestions or stories on how your bird first started doing this? Very Respectfully, JC

I think this turned out to be a very good discussion. I hope I did not come off too harsh. I guess this all relly comes down to personal morals. If we were all raised the same way with the same train of thought, there would not be any realy reason for discussion.

just because people do it all of the time does not mean they should. If you can not control a bird then there is a very good chance you can not control a child. The bigges problem is people who do not think before they act. Too many people act without looking at what they are getting into or thinking about future plans and events. I have wanted my Grey for 16 years. I waited until I believed I had covered everything I possibly could before bringing one into my home. And I will tell you what, read my blog and see that I still did not cover it all and am still able to care for my family ( child included) my job and our Companion bird). I am sure there are limits and stipulations that take some of the free will decisions out of peoples hands, but I believe I make responcible decisions and hold my self accountable for my actions and the effects they have. ( intended for discussion only , no intent to offend in any way shape or form) Very respectfully, JC

Well I never though ORM (Operational Risk management) would show up in this forum at least not from the way I have to teach my students( Navy ). Since it has been brought to the table lets get the just of it and then see where the holes are in the boat shall we. How ORM Works ORM is a closed loop process of identifying and controlling hazards. It follows a 5-step sequence, is applied on one of three levels depending on the situation, and is guided by 4 principles. Purpose of ORM The purpose of ORM is to minimize risks to acceptable levels, proportional to mission accomplishment. Goal Of ORM The goal of ORM is to manage risk so the mission can be accomplished with the minimum amount of loss. Benefits Of ORM Applying the ORM process will reduce mishaps, lower injury and property damage costs, provide for more effective use of resources, improve training realism and effectiveness, and improve readiness. Fill in as it applies to every day life. 5 Steps of Performing ORM 5 Step Process Memory Acronym- I AM IS 1.Identify Hazards 2.Assess Hazards 3.Make Risk Decisions 4.Implement Controls 5.Supervise Ok now I can see "IF" there is a situation that would force you to have to rehome a bird you would choose that over a human child, that is a no brainer. However, bringing up ORM really does not plug the holes in your boat. Note I am not bashing you, "everyone is entitled to their own wrong opinions" <------- that, by the way was a joke, it is ok to laugh. Ok hole number one Identify the risk. Ok what are the risk "if" infant/toddler interaction with bird? Well that all depends what the situation is. Do you have a cage? Do you allow your bird and child to be alone together. Do you have a way to seperate them and still not exclued either of them? The list goes on because "If" is the biggest word in the dictionary. "If" my infant were to crawl over to the elecrical socket. Or "if" my infant were able to get it's tiny fingers to remove the safety plug form the electrical socket. "If" I go out side I could get hit by a bus. I think many people think about hazards but they do not look at the level of probability and severity. If you have the forsight to think ahead about this problem then you should be able to continue the ORM process all the way. Next step after identify hazards is to assess the hazards. Here is where we take those things, bird biting baby, baby biting bird and decide how likley it is , how serious could it be, is it worth it to remove one family member for the sake of another, what might the child loose from not having this kind of pet in the home, will the child benifit from not having pets that could possibly harm them until they are old enough to be on their own? So many things can come up. So now the risk decisions, lock the cage, supervise the child at all times, remove all electrical sockets from the home that the child might ever be able to get close to. Restrict when bird is free to roam or if it is free to roam. I am sure the list could grow beyond the scope of this forum but I think the idea is there. Now that we have decided on what controls we want to put in place, implement them, set them into motion. Last but not least SUPERVISE and revise as needed which might mean you have to start at step #1. but it will be tailored to the adjustment you require. I understand where you are comming from and am not saying that you have not made every attempt at ORMing the situation. But most people tend to challenge the decision first and then understand the reason later. Too many people buy pets because they are cool at the time or get the attention of the girls at the beach etc... Only to pawn them off the first time a significant problem/challenge arises. I hope for the people that git rid of their birds for the safey of their children they never get that dog, kitten, pony,snake, hampster, rat, or fish for their child, because "What IF" might just happen anyways. Very Respectfully, JC<br><br>Post edited by: Big_Squishy, at: 2008/08/27 15:15

Ok so BoBo plays with toys, things that wern't originaly toys , food and what ever we will allow him to have. Now I have seen him fighting with his toys, tossing them around biting pecking and what not. Is this an agression problem? Is it a way they play, what do I need to know about this behavior? When BoBo trys to nip at me I use to just walk away or remove him from his play perch and put him in his cage for about 15 to 30 minutes. but as time has passed I have become more trusting and left my hand in the line of fire to see exactly how hard he would try to bite me. Very few times has he actually bitten hard enough to cause anything more than discomfort. However he has gotten ahold of my soon to be wife like he was making a meal out of her. BoBo fights with my hand all of the time. never really hard biting, most times just gets my fingers between his beak and lets go. Would like opinions about continueing to play with hime this way, possible problems and alternatives. Hope to hear from you soon. JC

Well I have several questions: 1. If Greys do not like to poo in their cage, what is wrong with my grey he will poo anywhere? ( more of a joke) 2. I have done some looking into potty training and believe there are some specific things to take into concideration before you choose a place or method to train your companion. I was reading how this guy could paper train your bird in something like a week. I thought wow a week is good and there would be no more messes ( at least less). I continued to read up on the subject and found that several families have lost or almost lost their greys to potty training mishaps. When I read this I kind of laughed until I got to the why or how. Our birds are creatures of habit. I am sure if we have not figured it out yet we soon will. So if I train my bird to only go on this piece of paper there is a potential problem if I happen to be somewhere that that paper is not available ( like traveling). I am not sure how true or exact this problem can be but this could kill a bird that waits to poo for a specific place or material. Please don't think I know what I am talking about, because I do not, This is just a concern that I thought might be good for discussion. I would love not to have to clean the carpet as often but want to make sure I am not opening up a door to potential problems or issues later on down the road for something that I can replace if need be. I can not replace my BoBo. JC

I would pay a few well earned duckets to see that lol!

It is funny this post came up about the time the same thing happened in our home. Our air conditioner went out it was just under 100 degreed in our apartment and it apeared that BoBo was panting. I figured he might be over heating even though we had fans on all over the apartment. I went and filled up his water dish and as an after thought droped 4 or 5 ice cubes in. I re attached it to his perch and next thing I know he was crushing the ice and attempting to get his whole body in his drinking dish. He seemed to have so much fun. I tried with a much larger bowl to see if he would actually bathe himself but he refused to get in or even mess with the ice. I think i will try the large dish in the bottom of his cage and see how he takes to that. PS still can not get under his wings when we shower or I spray.

I have been keeping notes of post and information relating to feeding and what not. now that I red this I can honestly say i do not know if BoBo is a big eater. All of his food is portioned and fed ar pretty regualr intervals. About every 2 hours BoBo gets either seed, pelett or people food ( fruits veggies etc.. ) in the amount of the size of his head. I do not think BoBo has ever had enough food to just sit and eat and eat. Maybe this might help or maybe your bird is bored, I know I have found myself eating out of bordom. Just a thought

BoBo our 6 month old CAG said Hello his first and only time at 4 1/2 months. Now he says BoBo Pretty Bird,, Bird, and BoBo. It is clear what he is saying but not always fully or correctly pronounced, but anyone who heard him would be able to understand. We have kept to just a few phrases or words so we do not confuse him.

She really lkes the Eclectus but I do not know enough about them as of yet. I am not sure of their temperment and have been looking into them more. Thank you

My soon to be wife has fallen in love with BoBo our 6 month old CAG, however she has it set in her mind that he will never like her and that she would prefer another bird where she is primary carrer. Now I really do not know what to do. I sugested that we look at a smaller breed of bird that might not be so intemidating to her when it trys to bite. I also informed her that a bit by a small bird hurts just like a big bird only diferance is that the big bird might get to keep your finger or part of it. We went to our local bird store and she saw an Umbrella Cockatoo. Also a much larger one I believe was a Salmon Crested Cockatoo also named something that starts with a G. They both apeared so cuddely and loveable I am afraid because of what little I know of them that they might require even more attention that BoBo and she might not be up to the task. I hear they are kown for throwing BIG fits when they do not get what they want. Especially since we do plan to have another child in the next few years. I am also afraid that because I have little to no fear of being bitten that any assistance I give if and when we get her her own bird, might negate her authority and it might bond to me. I know that would break her heart. I know she wants a bird larger than a cockatiel but smaller than a Blue and Gold. She wants one that has good speach potiential and that will be less agressive than our Beloved Bobo. Please offer any sugeations you have. JC

I am glad to see that I am not the only one who has wondered about this kind of thing. I have done some home work out on my own as well. No one seems to know if this behavior is something specific to the situation of prefering to be alone or if it is how our birds decide is the best way to get our attention being that they hear us say these words or make these sounds when we are near them. BoBo (CAG) is 6 months old. I have asked a billion questions and read as many books and blogs trying to be the best Birdy parent possible. Every answer seems to turn right back into the questions and is always ended by a statement informing you that each bird is diferent and you just need to decide for your self. I can agree most of the time and love the varied answers i get or sugestions. I believ none of them are wrong and the perspective is very helpful. So let me tell you what BoBo has done and does now. BoBo started off making this grunting noise when we first got him. ( Bock Bock LOL) As time went one I asked mre questions and read more books and forums, I took trainig tactics and applied them as best I could and evalutaed them based on success. I can say that calling to BoBo from a distance or out of view has prooven to get the best responce. not always the words or sound I was trying to get however the interest seemed peeked and his attention was focused on my voice. I have and will from time to time catch BoBo talking or attempting speech or new sounds when he sits off to himself. But more so lately I find that early morning and late afternoon just about the time the light starts to change before the sun goes down , that BoBo is very vocal and I use this behavior to encourage speech. Being that our companion birds are so smart. I am sure the possibility that they use their understanding of what we want only to mess with out heads. They know we want them to talk, or why else would we sit and repeat our selves to them over and over again and again. They see us talking to eachother and they see that normally a responce is given when we do. SO to be quite honest I think your bird is messing with you for fun. You want him/her to talk and want to see the event. He/she knows this and waits until you are away. Then when it happens you come runing and the already plentiful attention is now 2 fold. I honestly believe our birds can have a sick sence of humor and really enjoy the hoops they can get us to jump through. I fortunatly enjoy the hoop jumping but have had to buy and new phone that I can upgrade and add new ringer tones to just because I am tired of answering a phone that is nt really ringing. So far we have been through 8 ringer tones. One more thing, even though each one of our companion birds is diferent , some traits will be consistant the majority of the time. Everywhere I have read states that most Greys are later talker if they choose to talk at all. Where some other birds begant to vocalize earlier Greys seem for the most part and I am just stating my inturpretation of what I have read, that greys normally really begin to vocalize more towards the 9 months to a year age and from there hold on to your socks or stuff them in your ears lol. I am sure that this did not flow in an organized train of thought but I hope the scattered rambeling gives you enough to concider as an answer or partial answer to your question.

Our CAG is 6 months old, we have ad many changes since we bought him in May. I have always been told that it is better not to allow him on my sholder due to safety reasons. I to some extent agree with this however it seems to be where most birds want to be. BoBo will make every attempt to climb from my hand to my sholder that he can. I just offer the next hand and bring him back down. BoBo once on my sholder will try to get on my head as you describe here. At this point the only reason BoBo is on my sholder is because he had a good enough grip with his beak and he was flapping his wings that for me to stop him in his effort could have hurt either him or me. Once he has settled I remove him from my sholder and place him in his cage or pertch. I wait about 10 to 15 minutes and then bring hime back out. BoBo seems to get the idea, if only for the best part of the rest of the day. Another reason I believe our birds wish to get on our heads especially since they are so young is the instinct that the higher up they are the safer they feel. I have more I will write about our expieriences with perches and BoBo being pertched up high and he new attitude towards us. JC

My better half asked if I might change BoBo's name. She says he does not really respond to it. Will this confuse him or be a possible problem?? What do you think.

Welcome Irie, I can honestly say you have come to the right place! The Forums are the best tool I have had since bringing my first parrot in to my home in early May this year. I would like to mention that post placement will help you a great deal and a general search for the topics you are looking for will give you a wealth of information. Don't feel that if your question is not answered right away that you have been ignored. I can say that alot of the time the wonderful people here will do some of the research and read back in previous post to better guide you to the answers you need. Post your expierences and enjoy the company. Glad to see you here. JC

That is amazing that a dictionary of any sort would have that as a definition. LOL so PMSL it is. JC