Kaedyn

Congo greys have black beaks and Timnehs have a combination of black and horn colored beaks. If you've seen one that looks white, that's likely just a bad photo or possibly a dirty or scratched beak.

I use the high potency course for my greys and the fine for my lovebirds. I also feed Zupreem in a separate bowl for variety and to reduce the frequency that I have to buy the Harrison's pellets. The two closest vets that carry them here are at least a 40 minute drive, one way. I also feed a lot of fruits and vegetables, but I typically save those for when we all sit down for dinner. I would just stock up on the Harrison's, but they don't add any preservatives, hence, they have a more limited shelf life than the rest.

Just to be safe, you might want to call the range manufacturer and ask them if any part of the oven or flat top contain non-stick high temperature plastics, such as PTFE aka Teflon. These plastics degrade over time and may start to give off toxins at lower temperatures. If you find that it does contain PTFE and you still choose to go with that particular model, at least you'll know that you need to exercise more caution when your fids are around.

When taking her out of her cage, try moving her to a perch or playstand, then asking her to poop. Give her a bit to do her thing and then ask again. If she doesn't do anything after the third try, start to walk away. As she sees that she's about to be left out, she'll likely do her business. That's most likely what's happening when you place her back in her cage. As soon as she does as she's told, praise her and ask her to step-up, so that she understands that she gets what she wants when you get what you want.

Is it the neighbors above and below you or those behind an adjoining wall? If it's the latter and you don't have the option of moving him to a room that doesn't share a wall with your neighbors, you might try using some acoustical curtains or other soundproofing material. You can even layer the curtains to make them more effective. Just make sure to use something that your bird won't try to eat!

It's really more a matter of the individual bird. I have two CAGs and one is curious, while the other is cautious. My parents had a TAG and other than physical appearance, I can't say that I've ever seen a difference. There may be some truth to the statement that TAGs are a bit more laid back, but studies of wild greys don't seem to back that claim. It might have more to do with some aspect of captivity.

Great video of Ace. He's awfully cute! Is he about 20 weeks now?

Tony, see my article on this very topic. Currently, it deals with bathing your grey in the shower and misting with a bottle, but I have an update coming with some alternative methods very soon. http://www.greyforums.net/health--nutrition/bathing-our-parrots.html

Since this is something we don't often get to see, I thought I'd post a picture where I just happened to freeze a shot of my grey's nictitating membrane aka third eyelid. Its purpose is to protect and clean the eye. It also has its own lubricating duct.

I have two of them and use them constantly, with my two greys and a pair of lovebirds. They are very strong, yet fairly light. Not only do they work well as a backpack, but they seatbelt into the car very well. I've also had very good experience in general with the company that created and sells them www.flyingsouth.com and its sister company www.thepinkbird.com. I do recommend getting the mosquito netting and possibly one of the very slim plastic Lixit bottles, which you can attach to the side, yet still close the window. The built in foods and water cups work well when stationary, but when backpacking, the Lixit is much better.<br><br>Post edited by: Kaedyn, at: 2008/09/12 18:48

I've seen my fair share of those with my eldest grey. I typically find them in my grey's beak or on the floor within a couple of days. It drives me crazy to see it hanging and I *SO* want to clip them, but given a little time as the others have said, she'll take care of it.

Stains give off volatile organic compounds (VOCs) while drying--which could take a few days. If you can smell it, it's probably dangerous. If removing your bird from the home isn't an option, I'd at least make sure that the windows in the bird's room are open, to allow for fresh air. You'll also need to be careful that the fumes don't get circulated through the air conditioning system. As far as safe stains go, I've heard rumor some exist, but I have no experience with them. Also, what's considered safe for us, isn't always safe for our birds. It wouldn't hurt to consult your avian vet on this topic.

I wouldn't try bathing your bird until it's a little older. There really isn't a need to do so right now. If there is food stuck on his/her face, just wipe it off with a wet cloth. You should make available a variety of solid foods, yet continue to hand feed. When your bird is ready, they'll start nibbling at the solid stuff. Continue to hand feed baby food until the day your baby refuses it. I'm going to defer to others for a more specific timetable on feeding.

http://www.birdsnways.com/wisdom/ww33eiii.htm http://www.birdsnways.com/wisdom/ww34eiii.htm http://www.birdsnways.com/wisdom/ww35eiii.htm

A lot of people who aren't up to the task buy a pair of birds with the intention of breeding them, and it doesn't go very well to say the least. But obviously, everyone who breeds birds has to start somewhere and I think BMustee was just trying to make you aware of the realities. In some ways, raising parrots can be more difficult than raising children. We aren't their natural parents, we can't effectively communicate with them, and subtle non-obvious issues in their very short adolescence can have long lasting effects. I think like everyone here, we're all just very concerned with the well being of all birds and on the topic of breeding, you just got the "scared straight" talk. That said. If you are serious about breeding, do all the research, and invest in all that's necessary, then there is no reason why you shouldn't become a great breeder. Just go into it with all the right intentions and place the birds well being before everything else. My recommendation would be to find a respected breeder in your area and see if you can shadow them for a while. Ask a lot of questions.

Mine do the same, depending on the tone. My theory is that certain sounds hit a harmonic that vibrates the small feathers surrounding their ears. They shake their head, as if it were a fly buzzing around them that they were trying to shake off.

Great find! My fids and I spend quite a bit of time perusing bird videos on YouTube. They'll really enjoy this one.

She's probably just working out some new phrases she picked up. I have a 14 month old which does the same. He has several words which are clear as a bell, but then a few others that you just can't quite make out. Even though they might be able to say certain words really well, there are always other phonics which they just haven't quite worked out yet. I've noticed that some greys seem to be very shy and secretive when it comes to speech. They'll work on their vocabulary in private, for hours a day, and then surprise you with a new word. I have a camera on mine during the day and I've heard him working on his speech for hours at a time when he doesn't think anyone is listening. So, really, you don't have to do anything other than talk to your bird. When she says something clearly, let her know that you understand what she's saying while giving her praise and attention. That will encourage her to do even better.

Broomer: Just a word of caution. I have that same wooden branch and it's a might bit slippery. Loki being so young, probably won't get much grip on it. If you find that to be the case yourself, you could always try wrapping some vet-wrap around it. I also have the exact same rope and concrete perch. Those are great! The concrete perches from Polly's keep their nails trimmed, yet don't seem to irritate their feet.

That's not that sily at all. I still make visitors wash their hands before handling any of my fids. Especially if they are smokers. Broomer: The hardest part for me would be trying to get any sleep at all the night before. The excitement keeps my brain active and I stay wide awake almost the entire night. And of course all I want to do the whole time is fall asleep, so tomorrow would get here fast.

I've had all of mine at the vet for well-bird exams at least twice and that's never been my experience. As BMustee said, I'd look around for another avian vet. At least to compare and contrast with your current situation.

I edited this to say, sorry for the double post. I sent the reply from my phone and it didn't go as planned. I've had all of mine at the vet for well-bird exams at least twice and that's never been my experience. As BMustee said, I'd look around for another avian vet. At least to compare and contrast with your current situation.<br><br>Post edited by: Kaedyn, at: 2008/09/08 07:25

So the real answer is really somewhere in the middle! Now my question is, what advantage do these breeders have in mixing the two? Is it just a sales gimmick?

I'm glad someone finally said it. I've seen a lot of posts on the forum stating that CAGs and TAGs can not be cross breed, but that wasn't my impression. I've encountered several greys that were considered hybrids. I've even seen breeders supply certificates that state the bird you received is a true Congo or a true Timneh, meaning not a cross.

Mine do it all the time and I start shortly thereafter.