Dave007

Just saw on FB that someone lost 3 of her 4 birds from Teflon toxicity one hour after using her new air fryer. If anyone her has one of these appliances, PLEASE don't use it anywhere near your birds. Better yet, get rid of it!

Thanks for that emergency update. Appreciated~~~

In the New Year, never forget to say thanks to your past years because they enabled you to reach today! Without the stairs of the past, you cannot arrive at the future. So, enjoy a great 2017.

One of the most glorious messes in the world is the mess created in the living room on Christmas day. Don't clean it up too quickly.

Happy holidays everyone:cool:

Unless you have many corner areas to put that type of cage in, it's best to get regulation sized cages which can be moved around easily to other areas . A person will never know that they wanna move a cage to another area. A regulation styled cage can is attractive in all areas and not stand out and will fit in with other cages in all areas. I've seen people who realized that the hexagonal cage was more of a pain in the than was expected. Plus hexagonal cages are a little harder to clean up. Replacement parts are harder to find.

I have not been on the forum for awhile. I am very sad because of recent behavior changes with Brutus. As you know, my husband left several years ago and I am divorced. In the last few months, I met a very sweet man and he is spending more time with me at my house. He has been trying to make points by feeding nuts to my parrots-including Brutus. As you also know, I love Brutus very much! My parrots get organic fresh food, frequent baths and frequent trips outside for sunshine. I have handled Brutus less and less since my husband left. We had a bedtime ritual that seemed to keep me safe from biting. He would fly upstairs and dangle on the door while I retrieved him and put him in his cage. This is because I got bit a few times after he stepped up. This method had worked very well for several years. In the last few weeks, Brutus has bitten me several times as I put him to bed. Lately, it has escalated to him attacking my face. I will no longer try to pick him up. I am lucky he didn't get my eye! I consulted a trainer who said to reduce sweet fruits and increase vegetables. She said to only use nuts as treats. I am making these changes. She said to start to train him with treats so we can do more-and-more without bites. I don't know how to begin to train him because I am terrified of being attacked again. Have any of you dealt with this kind of situation? What do I do? He seems fine during the day. He is out all day: eating, flying, sitting around, and talking. This trainer told me he is frustrated for whatever reason, and it really doesn't matter why. We couldn't get Brutus to take any nuts while she was at my house and I feel I wasted a big chunk of money for just some words. I feel kind of hopeless right now. I only touch Brutus when he is in his cage now. I rub his beak and head and kiss his beak. Please advise. Another trainer said to clip his wings to make him behave. This seems barbaric and unnecessary to me. I am also afraid of him breaking his keel when he tries to fly. Please help!

Maybe I'm reading your post incorrectly.

Are you saying that in the past,it sounds like your bird used to bite you but you devised a method that would lessen the biting which in uour eyes d\seemed successfu; If so, that was a mistake simply because it only put the biting on the backburner. Right now you're afraid thayt your bird will bite you in all the wrong places that will cause serious injury. First off, never kiss any bird on the beak who has a history of biting. Actually, never let a bird kiss you on the mouth. The biting may subside but the desire is still there and you can't be sure that the bird will or will not bite you. Sometimes, a person has to revert to other methods that are used with youg birds. Your bird will bite your hands or arms so you need to retrain your bird with another item. That item is a short perch where you can pick him up and put him in the cage. He'll bite the stick but not your hands.*I no longer try to pick him up* You'll need that perch for a while until he becomes more trusting of you all over again. I totally disagree with the wing clipping bullshit. Your problem is'nt him trying to hunt you out. The problem is when you're close to him. I have no idea how giving more veggies and less fruit is gonna help. If you have to feed him, make sure he's out of the cage when filling the bowls. *He is out all day: eating, flying, sitting around, and talking** All greys do that whether they're biters or not.

As far as I can see, your big problem is the handling him close up.

Now as far as the new man in the house.--- Lets pretend that you're Brutus. Would you like 1 or 2 people feeding treats. 2 people means double the pleasure. Your boyfriend and you should be doing these actions at the same time. That also applies to other things that you do with the bird. A bird can realize that 2 people are equal.

Some of these routines have to be lessened. THese things are simply basics that have to do with retraining a bird. Then there's other things that you can ytry out that have been mentioned in this thread but curing the bird of these bad habits should be first on your list of things to do. Remember that perch (8 to 10 inches) which should be used in many areas.

I just went back home and did what you told me,he didn't accept to eat the oatmeal at all,it seems that he found it "sticky"..

So I had to mix it with a bit of formula and here we goo! He ate well well! I mixed with the oatmeal some cooked carrots(in the microwave).Did i do well?

One more question,why the formula shouldn't be mixed with something else? like vegetables or rice for example?

 

Thanks a lot!

 

here is a video of Alvin,

Look, maybe you misunderstood what I said. I told you that the formula you are using is not made for parrots so I gave you an idea about what to as far as making a different type of formula that's good for parrots `.It's closer to the correct type of formula to give. I told you to make a different type and the reason is that you're not giving the correct type. You're using a forula that's made for other types of birds. You have no avian vets where you live. You came here to get correct advice and that's what I'm doing. I never heard of someone mixing in potatoes with formula. I told you what substitute you can use which is closer to a correct type to use. Carrots should be given with out cooking them. I told you to try other solid foods which I said would eventually be eaten by the bird. If the oatmeal isn't accepted by` your bird, you should try to purchase flavored oatmeal. Quaker Oats or generic flavored oatmeal. It won't hurt the bird.cSolid food should be given by itself in another dish.This includes solid food such as vgetables Formula shouldn't given at this time until the next feeding is ready. Solid food should be available all the time. Most vegetables shouldn't be cooked. Never give any parrots vitamins because all vegetables have their own natural vitamins. Vitamins are given to soft billed birds. Parrots are hard billed birds. You need to understand the difference. Soft billed birds don't eat parrot seed mix unless they're are scraps laying around the ground. I gave some sugestions about what to feed. I can f\give you other suggestions about what solid food to use but right now you're having trouble with you're giving so I'm starting off simple. Carrots and other vegetabils shouldn't be microwave unless they're frozen. They shouk;ld be only microwave until they're room temperature. You use rice but mix it in with scrabbd egs, NOT FORUMALa. You can mix solid food with some eggs, NOT FORMULA!

The amounts of formula you're using isn't the correct amount of ccs so I told you to feed as much as the bird wants until he wants to stop. Feed every 3 to 4 hrs. If he wants more, give it to him. If he refuses the food, simply stop.That's called ABUNDANCE FEEDING. Many people use this method. It's good for the bird and keeps the bird calm because he's full. Your bird will wanna sleep after a big feeding which is normal. No matter what food you give will eventually be eaten because the bird wikll be hungrey and check out other things. If you wanna break your bird into eating solid food, throw in some cheerios on the floor which he'll eventually eat'

I'll repeat this ----you're going too fast as you're making yourself very nervous and worried. I look at your bird and I see nothing wrong but there may be something wrong with you---it's called impatience and expecting too much in such a small time. I'm really sorry that you have no avian vet around so We'll try to help but you've got take it easy. Your bird seems like it's ready to try out flying and I;'ll tell you right now, weak and sickly birds don't think about that.

Went home and againn diahrea

 

I was adviced to use these 2 to mix them with water and give them to the bird.. of course using a specific dose. I hope you will be able to guide me.. i fed him tonight formula+cooked whole grain rice+1 cooked potato cube

The formula mix in those packages aren't for parrots. They're for soft billed birds such a finches, canaries, pidgeons, doves. That's what is causing those loose droppings.

At 12 weeks, solid food should be introduced such as green vegetables, solid carrots and parrot seed mix. The bird won't like all the vegetables but you need to be patient and try all types. He won't eat all the different sized seeds but he'll eventually he will. Seed should be in an area where he can easily get to it all the time. The seed should be with him 24 hrs a day. The vegetables should be raw, very green. You can feed some scrambled eggs 2 to 3 times a week. You can give some cooked beans, some bread that has grains in it. Some roasted nuts that people can eat. No raw peanuts.

Since you really have no formula mix available , Get some oatmeal, cook until it's lumpy ( NOT CREAMY) and use as formula mix. Don't blend in other things with the formula. Use a spoon. Feed as much as the bird can eat. Use no measuring items. He'll stop eating when he's full. No potatoes. Give some apples, bananas, some grapes.

As far as what droppings look like-------in the morning the amount will be the largest of the day. The fluid area you're looking at is urates (Urine). The dropping will be semi soft, will splatter a bit. Color will differ depending on what color the food is. They could be green, reddish or light tan.

If your bird decides that he wants no more formula permanently, don't try to force it on him. A bird will stop when nature tells his system that only solid food is acceptable.

Now as far as that disease you're talking about------there is no such thing as *treatments* to prevent the disease. I have no idea who told you that but don't take a chance with your bird's internal organs. That disease happens with different poultry, chickens, pigs and cows. When parrots get that disease, they get it from being around animals like I just mentioned.

PS-----you've only hd the bird a couple of weeks. Let the bird get use to things. That includes the different food you're giving. It takes a while for a bird to acquire a taste for different things.

I know I should have had an avian vet before getting Poppy but I got discouraged in my search after reading scary reviews of the ones that popped up. Is there a site I can go to or do any of you know of any reputable avian veterinarians around Seattle? I live in Bothell/Mill Creek. Thank you in advance:D

ABVP Certified Avian Veterinarians in the Seattle Area

Seattle, WA - James Onorati (Des Moines Vet Hosp) - 206-878-4111

Seattle, WA - Tracy Bennett (Bird & Exotic Clin of Seattle) - 206-783-4538

These are in Seattle but not be near you. Understand that a usual avian vet visit is done once a year unless there's an emergency. Many people have to travel a bit to get to an avian vet.

Hmmm, This almost sounds like an Online Dating Service. Maybe Match.com??

Hi,

 

I dont like keeping him in a collar but I have to when he damages the area so badly that it bleeds. I used Aloe Vera in the past and will stay doing it again.

 

Is something like this ok? http://www.hollandandbarrett.com/shop/product/holland-barrett-aloe-vera-gel-60002672

 

All the gels I have seems to say 100% but have a few other ingredients.

 

Can I apply this even though it is constantly bleeding? How can I stop the bleed?

 

Thank you

This item isn't an extract from aloe. It's pure aloe with nothing else in it. You can get it at a pharmacy or have them order it for you. Some supermarkets with a drug department may also have it.

Yes, it can be put on bloody areas.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v50/DaveVP/DSCN0113-1.jpg

Hi all,

 

Last year i posted about my CAG being a plucker and mutilator. We keep him in a collar to allow his feathers and skin to heal and then take it off and try and prevent him from doing it again.

 

However this time around his has managed to damage the under wing very badly and it just wont heal. It is constantly scabbing with dried blood. We have taken to our avian vet (C J Hall) who just advise us to keep him in the collar again to allow it to heal and gave us antibiotics and inflammatory.

 

I am very concerned as its a slow bleed that what heal. Every time he opens his wing the slightest it tears the wound open. Any advise would be much appreciated. Should I bandage the wing down to allow it to heal?

 

Thank you

I'm not a vet but the one thing that's wrong here is that collar. Your bird has an exterior problem. Antibiotics cant really help if there's no infection there.

One item you should get from a pharmacy is ALOE VERA GEL The gel should be put on the tear area heavily and allowed to linger. It's not toxic and will keep that area moist and pliable. The wing's stretching ability will improve. The scabbing area will lessen. This gel should be used often on that area. It relieves itch and periodic pain. The gel allows the bird to not pick at the scab. Think about a scab on yourself. It dries, gets itchy and the first thing you wanna do is scratch at it. You remove the scab and bare the area and bleeding starts all over again. You should use a heavy amount each time you use it. The scab eventually softens but the itch doesn't return. The ointment should be slightly rubbed in and left alone. Even after you think the area is now been healed, you should continue to use it to make sure.

The gel is called 100% Aloe Vera Gel. It's clear and people also use it for their skin. It costs about $6 a bottle. There's usually 8 oz in the bottle. Always have this ointment around the house. People also use this gel on wounds that a bird can get such as from being pecked at or bitten by other birds and also injuries that may occur. People use this ointment on birds that have over plucked certain areas on the body where wounds have developed. It's used for skin injuries that cause open sores.

I really don't agree with the collar and so far it's done nothing good for your bird. Your bird can lick the ointment and nothing will happen. There's no harm in trying this out.

Hi everyone,

I got the birds a Manzanita tree stand that isn't sandblasted and have always read and was told to use sandpaper to "rough" up the branches a bit to make them less slippery. The problem is, sandpaper smoothes. I sandpapered side-to-side and back-and-forth to see if that would make the branch rougher but it doesn't. Input? Advice?

 

Edited to add: I suppose it is a tad bit rougher after being sanded than with the natural red bark on

A method I've told many people to do is to use either a hand saw or a dremel tool and make slight zig zag cuts all over each branch in no particular order. It'll give supreme grip for claws. It will imitate gripping like an outdoor branch.

Hi everyone,

Poppy has only been home for 2 full days now and here I am already seeking advice. Poppy will cling onto her cage door and make repeated noises until I open the door to get her out. She will hurry onto my hand but when I attempt to put her on her playtop or a perch attached to the outside of her cage, she side steps up my arm to avoid it so I will sit on the couch with her and speak quietly and softly to her. Earlier, she allowed me to stroke her head for about 10 minutes as I was talking to her and was closing her eyes and very content. The problem is, she goes after my hand or arm when she sees them uncovered. I cover my arm and hand with a small hand towel when I handle her after she seemed to be on a mission to bite them her first night home.

 

I was holding her a bit ago after she begged to come out of the cage and all was fine for a few minutes but I could see she was looking for a way to hop off of my covered hand and onto my chest, which she did, then nipped at my nostril then went for my left arm and hand. I covered her with the towel and placed her back into her cage to calm down. She seems to get into an excited state when this happens and I can't quite figure it out because she really seems to want me to hold her when I do.

 

I have been trying to go slow with everything and not overwhelm her or push myself on her. I have read enough on here to know that it can take quite a bit of time to gain their trust. Any advice is welcome...I look forward to hearing your input but suspect I need to go slower and maybe not hold her yet...?

No matter how sweet, kind, loveable, cute and adorable your bird is right now, if he gets the idea that he can go on your shoulder, I guarantee you that in the future, he will give you an absolutely free-of-charge earlobe piercing for your next set of new earrings that you buy. If you wear a chain on your neck, they're able to snap and break it without even trying hard. They love shiny jewelry. This goes for your husband or children too because as far as ear lobes go, there is no sexual preference. Another reason for not doing the shoulder thing is that if you use some sort of hair grooming item in your hair, they will get to it because they love to preen hair. If they do get to that cosmetic, they will swallow it and that's a no no or if you use nothing on your hair there's a good chance that the bird will pull at your hair constantly. Another thing about the shoulder is that when it comes time that you don't want him there, they will give you a struggle when you try to catch him to take him off. Never let a parrot stay in an area where you can't see him. They'll race over to the other shoulder and they might bite if you persist. It's not a good idea to ever let your bird used to staying on your shoulder especially if he's showing small desires to pull on your skin. Eventually, it'll be another part of your facial area or your clothing or the top of the chair you happen to be sitting on. There's just too many pictures of people walking around with birds on their shoulders but was isn't said is that those birds never showed any desire to bite or nibble the person who's carrying him around. Your bird is already showing that desire and it's not possible to train your bird to NOT BITE. It's their nature to bite at whatever appeals to them. This type of habit gets more serious as the bird gets older and more sure of itself. By the way, the biting problem isn't unusual. Loads of peopl;e have gone through your problem and the best way to stop it is to take all items of temptation away from the bird.

This is what happens-----A person gets a brand new baby bird. They're trmendlly excited. They wanna know and be a part of everything concerning that new bird and other people birds and info. That person is thrilled.

Fast forward-----that bird is now 5, 6, 7 yrs old. The person now knows that their bird wasn't as special as was once thought. The bird is now a part of the family, a member of the house, mixing in with all the people

In other words --------AS bb king WOULD SAY ---------!The thrill is gone!-------So it's time to go

Did there used to be a lot more active members here? As in active all at once? I suppose it's a good thing in one way that it is fairly quiet here—less drama and personalities clashing.

Hundreds and hundreds. All active. More drama and more personlitiies and more clashing was a good exciting thing

Although I qualify as a recent returning member, I have checked back often and just read what was new without posting. I also had some health problems that kept me away from my computer and everything else. Parrot forums, like other forums, go through members lives with varying degrees of importance. Other bird forums that have suffered recently are, "the Bird Channel Forums", "Avian Nation", "the Parakeet Place", and another one about Parrotlets that I cannot remember the name of. It's just Human Nature. I see similar activity with various groups that I belong to. Veteran groups, Garden Clubs, etc. all seem to have a small core of regular members who do everything, and a long list of "Ghost Members" that show up now & then.

Very well put. I'm glad that others see the fading and failing of all types of boards around the net.

Facebook has killed off forums all over the place, especially niche forums like this one.

The drama here wasn't too bad, although I haven't been here long enough to know any further back. If you want to have some fun, search 'Jayd's posts. I think that guy was drunk half the time he was posting.

Very true but when people go to facebook, there's nothing of substance being talked about. Just yap, yap, yap about the most ridiculous subjects that have nothing to do with birds. The days of legimate bird forums is slowly fading away. This place was once a great place to talk about birds. What happened? Who knows.

Agree w/most everything you said about hanging dead bodies on the wall.

But my question was why did Giannine want to know when Polly died...??? That's why I quoted her.

Well, sorry that i'm replying to the wrong person. Accidents do happen but I think that anyone who wants my opinion will easily find it in this thread.

I'm just curious; why?

 

How? I have no idea.

The actual age when he died? I have no idea.

Why did they take the bird to a taxaderist? I assume that the owner had a special bond with the bird and wanted his image around.

Lots of people do this with their pets. It's a love thing. I can understand this feeling.

WHAT I DON'T FIND APPEALING IS WHEN PEOPLE GO OUT AND LOOK FOR WILD ANIMALS JUST BECAUSE THEY WANT THEIR HEADS HANGING FROM A WALL. THESE FUCKING PEOPLE GET OFF WHEN THEY LOOK AT THE AMOUNT OF HORNS STICK OUT OF THE DEER OR OTHE ANIMAL. OR THEY GET EXCITED AT THE HEIGHT OF A BEAR.

Do you know the year of this bird's death?

The grey died in 1947

Do you know the year of this bird's death?

The grey died in 1947

Parrots and dogs can get along. Chip is a bird hunting dog and my grey is Smokey. Chip used to watch me hand feeding Smokey uintil he fell asleep with his head on the table. Fast forward --Smokey is 9 and Chip is 10. Chip was very protective of Smokey. No people could come near Smokey unless he was allowed to.

Chip has since passed away at 13 yrs old. Look at my wife and Chip and his tail.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v50/DaveVP/CopyofCopyofseamusmakesagoodperch---22.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v50/DaveVP/Copy2oftellingasecret-2.jpg

Hello everyone! Brand new to this forum as well as a African grey! So I purchased a Congo and she will be ready in about a week. I can't help but to worry that I'm not doing something right. I have done months and months of research however there is still one thing I'm nervous about. I am currently a EMT and I work 11 hour shifts.. However, there are in the evenings. Tuesday- Friday 2pm- 1am. Only 4 days. I am concerned about my grey and her mental health. I want to be sure she will be okay while I am away. I have purchased many many toys as well as many foraging toys for her. I live with a roommate who works during the day so she will be by herself for the night once I leave. However, of course, in the mornings we will hang out/ eat together and spend time out of her cage. Also I am concerned that once I start school in about a month, she will struggle even more. I have one class on Mondays and Wednesday's from 8am- noon. Then on Saturday from 8am to 4pm. So once school starts, my work/school schedule is as follows:

 

Monday: 8am- noon

Tuesday: 2pm- 1am

Wednesday: 8am- noon, 2pm- 1am

Thursday:2pm- 1am

Friday : 2pm- 1am

Saturday:8am- 4pm

Sunday: free

 

I know greys require 12hrs of sleep as well. Would she be okay going to sleep without me being there? She could sleep while I'm at work right? Her cage is located in my room and I've heard that radio/ tv is okay for them. Any tips/ suggestions is greatly appreciated! I've attached a picture of Lola!

This is a breakdown of your situation

Monday: 8am- noon----very good

Tuesday: 2pm- 1am--------very bad

Wednesday: 8am- noon, 2pm- 1am-------good and bad

Thursday:2pm- 1am-------------very bad

Friday : 2pm- 1am---------very bad

Saturday:8am- 4pm-----once or twice a week------------somewhat good

Sunday: free ------------excellent

Greys need a hands on relationship with their new owners on a constant basis. A grey being in a cage alone for huge amounts of time is a problem in the making.

Toys----------A bird who is alone in a cage with a variety of toys will eventually tire of those toys. Many greys will decide tha the next best thing to do is to start plucking and chewing their feathers. If this habit isn't dealt with, it's a hard habit to get rid of. Cockatoos are also known for doing this. One way to slow this down has to do with time out of a cage and contact with people on a frequent basis.

You say that you have a roommate----what happens if the bird won't take to your roommate? There's no guarantees.

I'm not judging you but I can tell you that many people on this board went through these situations and some situations had a good ending and some had a bad ending.

Radio and TV will only last for a while before a bird may tune that out.

Greys are very different from each other

At one point the only common thing they have is the color of their feathers

You say you changed some of your hours but this is a standard chart for new birds which will extend into adulthood. Others here may have different opinions.

TAXIDERMY 1947

I read an article in "Bird Talk" magazine about an Amazon in Alaska who had absolute proof to be at least in his mid-eighties when the article was written. But the family was very sure he was closer to 100. He would have been hatched in the late 1800's & there just wasn't anything in writing until he was willed to someone, I think.

 

There was a fid in BaileysPapa's family who lived into their 50's for sure. murfchck's Cocaba is in his 60's...? A couple of members have posted into the 60's I think. But of course I can't find anything because the forum search engine sucks. Breaks my heart we've lost such a humongous bunch of knowledge archived on this site.

 

The only way we're going to know how long domestic parrots live is if there is a cohesive banding/tagging/chipping system put into place or if the DNA science gets to that point. 99% of the time, these poor critters get passed around & lose their history too often to know. And of course they don't show their age, which makes guessing impossible as well.

A little tip here=====Bird Talk has been giving out BS information for years. I've come across countless very bad info articles on all types of birds especially about medium to large sized parrots. The magazine is basically 80% advertising. They're heavily in cahoots with Birdtricks.com which is probably the most misleading site around. Many people have sued that group for false advertising and cheating people online and giving terrible training info to people and Bird Talk still backs him. If you go back on this site, you'll see hundred of posts concerning Bird Talk and Birdtricks. Most all have been very sad posts BUT like I said, it was a time when 100s of people posted here.