Dave007

Thanks for that emergency update. Appreciated~~~

In the New Year, never forget to say thanks to your past years because they enabled you to reach today! Without the stairs of the past, you cannot arrive at the future. So, enjoy a great 2017.

One of the most glorious messes in the world is the mess created in the living room on Christmas day. Don't clean it up too quickly. Happy holidays everyone:cool:

Unless you have many corner areas to put that type of cage in, it's best to get regulation sized cages which can be moved around easily to other areas . A person will never know that they wanna move a cage to another area. A regulation styled cage can is attractive in all areas and not stand out and will fit in with other cages in all areas. I've seen people who realized that the hexagonal cage was more of a pain in the than was expected. Plus hexagonal cages are a little harder to clean up. Replacement parts are harder to find.

Maybe I'm reading your post incorrectly. Are you saying that in the past,it sounds like your bird used to bite you but you devised a method that would lessen the biting which in uour eyes d\seemed successfu; If so, that was a mistake simply because it only put the biting on the backburner. Right now you're afraid thayt your bird will bite you in all the wrong places that will cause serious injury. First off, never kiss any bird on the beak who has a history of biting. Actually, never let a bird kiss you on the mouth. The biting may subside but the desire is still there and you can't be sure that the bird will or will not bite you. Sometimes, a person has to revert to other methods that are used with youg birds. Your bird will bite your hands or arms so you need to retrain your bird with another item. That item is a short perch where you can pick him up and put him in the cage. He'll bite the stick but not your hands.*I no longer try to pick him up* You'll need that perch for a while until he becomes more trusting of you all over again. I totally disagree with the wing clipping bullshit. Your problem is'nt him trying to hunt you out. The problem is when you're close to him. I have no idea how giving more veggies and less fruit is gonna help. If you have to feed him, make sure he's out of the cage when filling the bowls. *He is out all day: eating, flying, sitting around, and talking** All greys do that whether they're biters or not. As far as I can see, your big problem is the handling him close up. Now as far as the new man in the house.--- Lets pretend that you're Brutus. Would you like 1 or 2 people feeding treats. 2 people means double the pleasure. Your boyfriend and you should be doing these actions at the same time. That also applies to other things that you do with the bird. A bird can realize that 2 people are equal. Some of these routines have to be lessened. THese things are simply basics that have to do with retraining a bird. Then there's other things that you can ytry out that have been mentioned in this thread but curing the bird of these bad habits should be first on your list of things to do. Remember that perch (8 to 10 inches) which should be used in many areas.

Look, maybe you misunderstood what I said. I told you that the formula you are using is not made for parrots so I gave you an idea about what to as far as making a different type of formula that's good for parrots `.It's closer to the correct type of formula to give. I told you to make a different type and the reason is that you're not giving the correct type. You're using a forula that's made for other types of birds. You have no avian vets where you live. You came here to get correct advice and that's what I'm doing. I never heard of someone mixing in potatoes with formula. I told you what substitute you can use which is closer to a correct type to use. Carrots should be given with out cooking them. I told you to try other solid foods which I said would eventually be eaten by the bird. If the oatmeal isn't accepted by` your bird, you should try to purchase flavored oatmeal. Quaker Oats or generic flavored oatmeal. It won't hurt the bird.cSolid food should be given by itself in another dish.This includes solid food such as vgetables Formula shouldn't given at this time until the next feeding is ready. Solid food should be available all the time. Most vegetables shouldn't be cooked. Never give any parrots vitamins because all vegetables have their own natural vitamins. Vitamins are given to soft billed birds. Parrots are hard billed birds. You need to understand the difference. Soft billed birds don't eat parrot seed mix unless they're are scraps laying around the ground. I gave some sugestions about what to feed. I can f\give you other suggestions about what solid food to use but right now you're having trouble with you're giving so I'm starting off simple. Carrots and other vegetabils shouldn't be microwave unless they're frozen. They shouk;ld be only microwave until they're room temperature. You use rice but mix it in with scrabbd egs, NOT FORUMALa. You can mix solid food with some eggs, NOT FORMULA! The amounts of formula you're using isn't the correct amount of ccs so I told you to feed as much as the bird wants until he wants to stop. Feed every 3 to 4 hrs. If he wants more, give it to him. If he refuses the food, simply stop.That's called ABUNDANCE FEEDING. Many people use this method. It's good for the bird and keeps the bird calm because he's full. Your bird will wanna sleep after a big feeding which is normal. No matter what food you give will eventually be eaten because the bird wikll be hungrey and check out other things. If you wanna break your bird into eating solid food, throw in some cheerios on the floor which he'll eventually eat' I'll repeat this ----you're going too fast as you're making yourself very nervous and worried. I look at your bird and I see nothing wrong but there may be something wrong with you---it's called impatience and expecting too much in such a small time. I'm really sorry that you have no avian vet around so We'll try to help but you've got take it easy. Your bird seems like it's ready to try out flying and I;'ll tell you right now, weak and sickly birds don't think about that.

The formula mix in those packages aren't for parrots. They're for soft billed birds such a finches, canaries, pidgeons, doves. That's what is causing those loose droppings. At 12 weeks, solid food should be introduced such as green vegetables, solid carrots and parrot seed mix. The bird won't like all the vegetables but you need to be patient and try all types. He won't eat all the different sized seeds but he'll eventually he will. Seed should be in an area where he can easily get to it all the time. The seed should be with him 24 hrs a day. The vegetables should be raw, very green. You can feed some scrambled eggs 2 to 3 times a week. You can give some cooked beans, some bread that has grains in it. Some roasted nuts that people can eat. No raw peanuts. Since you really have no formula mix available , Get some oatmeal, cook until it's lumpy ( NOT CREAMY) and use as formula mix. Don't blend in other things with the formula. Use a spoon. Feed as much as the bird can eat. Use no measuring items. He'll stop eating when he's full. No potatoes. Give some apples, bananas, some grapes. As far as what droppings look like-------in the morning the amount will be the largest of the day. The fluid area you're looking at is urates (Urine). The dropping will be semi soft, will splatter a bit. Color will differ depending on what color the food is. They could be green, reddish or light tan. If your bird decides that he wants no more formula permanently, don't try to force it on him. A bird will stop when nature tells his system that only solid food is acceptable. Now as far as that disease you're talking about------there is no such thing as *treatments* to prevent the disease. I have no idea who told you that but don't take a chance with your bird's internal organs. That disease happens with different poultry, chickens, pigs and cows. When parrots get that disease, they get it from being around animals like I just mentioned. PS-----you've only hd the bird a couple of weeks. Let the bird get use to things. That includes the different food you're giving. It takes a while for a bird to acquire a taste for different things.

ABVP Certified Avian Veterinarians in the Seattle Area Seattle, WA - James Onorati (Des Moines Vet Hosp) - 206-878-4111 Seattle, WA - Tracy Bennett (Bird & Exotic Clin of Seattle) - 206-783-4538 These are in Seattle but not be near you. Understand that a usual avian vet visit is done once a year unless there's an emergency. Many people have to travel a bit to get to an avian vet.

Hmmm, This almost sounds like an Online Dating Service. Maybe Match.com??

This item isn't an extract from aloe. It's pure aloe with nothing else in it. You can get it at a pharmacy or have them order it for you. Some supermarkets with a drug department may also have it. Yes, it can be put on bloody areas. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v50/DaveVP/DSCN0113-1.jpg

I'm not a vet but the one thing that's wrong here is that collar. Your bird has an exterior problem. Antibiotics cant really help if there's no infection there. One item you should get from a pharmacy is ALOE VERA GEL The gel should be put on the tear area heavily and allowed to linger. It's not toxic and will keep that area moist and pliable. The wing's stretching ability will improve. The scabbing area will lessen. This gel should be used often on that area. It relieves itch and periodic pain. The gel allows the bird to not pick at the scab. Think about a scab on yourself. It dries, gets itchy and the first thing you wanna do is scratch at it. You remove the scab and bare the area and bleeding starts all over again. You should use a heavy amount each time you use it. The scab eventually softens but the itch doesn't return. The ointment should be slightly rubbed in and left alone. Even after you think the area is now been healed, you should continue to use it to make sure. The gel is called 100% Aloe Vera Gel. It's clear and people also use it for their skin. It costs about $6 a bottle. There's usually 8 oz in the bottle. Always have this ointment around the house. People also use this gel on wounds that a bird can get such as from being pecked at or bitten by other birds and also injuries that may occur. People use this ointment on birds that have over plucked certain areas on the body where wounds have developed. It's used for skin injuries that cause open sores. I really don't agree with the collar and so far it's done nothing good for your bird. Your bird can lick the ointment and nothing will happen. There's no harm in trying this out.

A method I've told many people to do is to use either a hand saw or a dremel tool and make slight zig zag cuts all over each branch in no particular order. It'll give supreme grip for claws. It will imitate gripping like an outdoor branch.

No matter how sweet, kind, loveable, cute and adorable your bird is right now, if he gets the idea that he can go on your shoulder, I guarantee you that in the future, he will give you an absolutely free-of-charge earlobe piercing for your next set of new earrings that you buy. If you wear a chain on your neck, they're able to snap and break it without even trying hard. They love shiny jewelry. This goes for your husband or children too because as far as ear lobes go, there is no sexual preference. Another reason for not doing the shoulder thing is that if you use some sort of hair grooming item in your hair, they will get to it because they love to preen hair. If they do get to that cosmetic, they will swallow it and that's a no no or if you use nothing on your hair there's a good chance that the bird will pull at your hair constantly. Another thing about the shoulder is that when it comes time that you don't want him there, they will give you a struggle when you try to catch him to take him off. Never let a parrot stay in an area where you can't see him. They'll race over to the other shoulder and they might bite if you persist. It's not a good idea to ever let your bird used to staying on your shoulder especially if he's showing small desires to pull on your skin. Eventually, it'll be another part of your facial area or your clothing or the top of the chair you happen to be sitting on. There's just too many pictures of people walking around with birds on their shoulders but was isn't said is that those birds never showed any desire to bite or nibble the person who's carrying him around. Your bird is already showing that desire and it's not possible to train your bird to NOT BITE. It's their nature to bite at whatever appeals to them. This type of habit gets more serious as the bird gets older and more sure of itself. By the way, the biting problem isn't unusual. Loads of peopl;e have gone through your problem and the best way to stop it is to take all items of temptation away from the bird.

This is what happens-----A person gets a brand new baby bird. They're trmendlly excited. They wanna know and be a part of everything concerning that new bird and other people birds and info. That person is thrilled. Fast forward-----that bird is now 5, 6, 7 yrs old. The person now knows that their bird wasn't as special as was once thought. The bird is now a part of the family, a member of the house, mixing in with all the people In other words --------AS bb king WOULD SAY ---------!The thrill is gone!-------So it's time to go