The Members Photography Thread Part 1

[Tari]

These are the best shots I have ever taken. I am sure you can give me more hints to make them even better but I even impressed myself. :woohoo:

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j268/Kolkri/Praticeshotq2.jpg

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j268/Kolkri/Praticeshotq1.jpg

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j268/Kolkri/praticeshotgood.jpg

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j268/Kolkri/Praticeshot.jpg

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j268/Kolkri/avatarmaybepractice.jpg

I need to get me something I can drape over the door for a better background. Anything else I can do? Move closer or further away? Try a different setting on the camara?

Thank you so much

[CeasarsDad]

OK Tari, There are a few things I see straight up that you can do.. Rather then blurting them out I am gonna wait for Melissa to look at your photos. I want to let Melissa answer because she had a similar problem when she first started really looking at her photos.. She learned something that I am hoping she will remember.

 

So Melissa aka TalonSis.. What can you recommend to Tari that would make the shots she has posted above better...

[TalonSis]

what? me learning something? :ohmy:

 

From what I can see Tari is your biggest problem is focusing. ALot of the shots are kinda blurry.

 

And then in some of them they are kinda unexposed....but im not sure how you would fix that on a point and shoot.

 

Is this what you mean CD? I cant really remember all my problems I first had cause the thread is no longer there...

 

Melissa

[CeasarsDad]

You're correct Melissa.. It's the exposure.. Remember what we did to fix back lighting issues.. It's in this thread.. what's the formular.. Remember.. Light=Lighter and Dark=Darker..

 

Exposure Compensation which is available on Tari's camera.. Tell her what she needs to do.. This is your first quiz..

 

See ya Kiddo..

[TalonSis]

ok you need to change the exposure compensation. You can probably find this by going into menu and selecting the +/-0 button. Since it is light out you would need to increase it.(+) and if its dark out, you lower it.(-)

 

And you dont need flash if they are by the window getting natural light.

 

Melissa<br><br>Post edited by: TalonSis, at: 2007/05/26 23:34

[CeasarsDad]

Melissa,

I'm proud of you. That is correct.. So in the case of Tari's photos she has lots of back light that is causing the camera to underexpose the subject. By increasing exposure compensation you would cause the subject to recieve more exposure. This is be a much nicer photo.

 

See ya Kiddo...

 

Tari, do you understand what Melissa said? If you don't understand exposure compensation you need to look in your manual or ask here and I can direct you.

[Tari]

Ok I found this on my camara only thing is I can use it in auto mode so no telling what Ill mess up using this different mode. Also Ill have to wait till morning. Light is all wrong now.

[CeasarsDad]

Tari,

 

OK. don't worry about screwing anything up. We need to expand you horizons and start making you use that thing for more then just an automatic picture taker. You will find that you can get some pretty incredible photos from what you have right now.. If you take the time to learn. I am here for you and others to help you learn. This is my way of giving back to others what I have taken.. Understand?

 

Keep us posted

[HeatherStrella]

What am I doing wrong?? My pictures don't turn out NEAR as beautiful as yours... what am I doing wrong??

 

Exif info:

Image Description KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERA

Make KONICA MINOLTA

Model MAXXUM 7D

Orientation top, left side

X Resolution 72 dots per inch

Y Resolution 72 dots per inch

Resolution Unit Inch

Software MAXXUM 7D v1.10

Date/Time 2007:05:29 15:53:51

Thumbnail Offset 39214 bytes

Thumbnail Length 12792 bytes

YCbCr Positioning Datum point

Exposure Time 0.01 sec

F-Number F10

Exposure Program Manual control

ISO Speed Ratings 400

Exif Version 2.21

Date/Time Original 2007:05:28 19:34:28

Date/Time Digitized 2007:05:28 19:34:28

Components Configuration YCbCr

Brightness Value 7.25

Exposure Bias Value 0

Max Aperture Value F2.8

Metering Mode Multi-segment

Light Source Unknown

Flash Flash fired, compulsory flash mode

Focal Length 35.0 mm

Subject Location 1504 1000 256 304

FlashPix Version 1.00

Color Space sRGB

Exif Image Width 1870 pixels

Exif Image Height 1872 pixels

Custom Image Processing Normal

Exposure Mode Manual

White Balance Mode Auto

Digital Zoom Ratio Digital zoom not used

Focal Length in 35mm Film 52.0 mm

Scene Capture Type Standard

Gain Control Low gain up

Contrast Normal

Saturation Normal

Sharpness Normal

 

A few hours later

 

Compression JPEG compression

Make Panasonic

Model DMC-FZ50

Orientation top, left side

X Resolution 72 dots per inch

Y Resolution 72 dots per inch

Resolution Unit Inch

Software Ver.1.0

Date/Time 2007:05:29 15:56:07

Thumbnail Offset 7619 bytes

Thumbnail Length 7936 bytes

YCbCr Positioning Datum point

Exposure Time 1/80 sec

F-Number F11

Exposure Program Manual control

ISO Speed Ratings 200

Exif Version 2.21

Date/Time Original 2007:05:29 02:42:07

Date/Time Digitized 2007:05:29 02:42:07

Components Configuration YCbCr

Compressed Bits Per Pixel 4 bits/pixel

Exposure Bias Value 0

Max Aperture Value F2.8

Metering Mode Multi-segment

Light Source Flash

Flash Flash fired, compulsory flash mode

Focal Length 19.8 mm

FlashPix Version 1.00

Color Space sRGB

Exif Image Width 2333 pixels

Exif Image Height 2358 pixels

Sensing Method One-chip color area sensor

File Source Digital Still Camera (DSC)

Scene Type Directly photographed image

Custom Image Processing Normal

Exposure Mode Manual

White Balance Mode Auto

Digital Zoom Ratio Digital zoom not used

Focal Length in 35mm Film 94.0 mm

Scene Capture Type Standard

Gain Control Low gain up

Contrast Normal

Saturation Normal

Sharpness Normal

Compression JPEG compression

Image Description KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERA

Make KONICA MINOLTA

Model MAXXUM 7D

Orientation top, left side

X Resolution 72 dots per inch

Y Resolution 72 dots per inch

Resolution Unit Inch

Software MAXXUM 7D v1.10

Date/Time 2007:05:29 15:55:10

Thumbnail Offset 39214 bytes

Thumbnail Length 8923 bytes

YCbCr Positioning Datum point

Exposure Time 0.01 sec

F-Number F10

Exposure Program Manual control

ISO Speed Ratings 400

Exif Version 2.21

Date/Time Original 2007:05:29 00:43:33

Date/Time Digitized 2007:05:29 00:43:33

Components Configuration YCbCr

Brightness Value 5.12

Exposure Bias Value 0

Max Aperture Value F2.8

Metering Mode Multi-segment

Light Source Unknown

Flash Flash fired, compulsory flash mode

Focal Length 30.0 mm

Subject Location 1504 1000 256 304

FlashPix Version 1.00

Color Space sRGB

Exif Image Width 1724 pixels

Exif Image Height 1661 pixels

Custom Image Processing Normal

Exposure Mode Manual

White Balance Mode Auto

Digital Zoom Ratio Digital zoom not used

Focal Length in 35mm Film 45.0 mm

Scene Capture Type Standard

Gain Control Low gain up

Contrast Normal

Saturation Normal

Sharpness Normal

 

I hope the exif info helps...am I positioning him wrong in the sunlight? I know the first one is too bright in the background....but his feathers seem to be blended together...yours, you can see each individual feather...yours is so sharp...I even sharpened mine in PP...??? Any ideas???

 

Heather

[CeasarsDad]

Heather,

 

First off you photos don't look bad.. So don't be so worried about them.. Before we go any further trying to tweek your photos understand that everything depends on the lens you are using.... Can you tell me what lens you have on your camera? Was this the lens that came with the camera? Most "kit" lenses are not of the best quality the manufacturer has.. Pro level lenses are available that will show increased resolution and contrast. I think this is what you see in some of my shots. Higher then normal contrast will cause the resolution to look better.. Again, this is a function of the lens first... then the camera..

 

Now sometimes there are settings in your camera's menu that allow you to change the contrast settings.. You might want to look at that and see if you can go with more contrast settings...

 

Now, things can be done to your photos to improve upon what you have now.. No question..

 

Let start with the first image.. 11harrison.jpg. There you used an aperture too small.. You used F11.. No good because you do not want to see much of the background. By using F11 you are causing the depth of field to be too deep.. It's distracting to see so much of the backgound.. Add to that you have very high back light as a further distraction... Try stopping down your lens to say 3.5 or smaller. You will notice a remarkable difference.... Also don't use ISO 400 in daylight. It is not your cameras best mode.. It adds noise you don't need.

 

The next photo 11harrison2.jpg suffers from flat flash. Did you use an on camera flash for this? If you did this is why it look flat.. Correctly exposted but flat.... Bounce flash would have been much better.. Now, bounce flash outside it difficult becasue there are no walls or ceilings to bounce off.. They sell something called a Lumiquest for this.. If you have an external flash Lumiquest will help here.. If you don't you need an external flash unit.. Otherwise you can't correct what you see.. Once again you have an F stop too small for this subject.. you want to isolate the subject from the background.. Open up the lense to your smallest number and you will see a difference...

 

The other thing you need to always remember is there is only 2 times a day when you have good light outdoors.. Early morning and late afternoon.. If you are shooting outside these times you will not get the best looking photos no matter what you are shooting with... You want LOW LIGHT.. Not light that is high overhead...

 

These photos show the light coming from the side.. MUCH BETTER then overhead light..

 

 

 

To get slightly better resolution you need to be shooting in RAW format.. Are you???

 

Thank you for asking these questions. I appreciate you confidence in me.. Hopefully I won't let you down.. <br><br>Post edited by: CeasarsDad, at: 2007/05/30 02:26

[HeatherStrella]

Thanks for the reply. My unit didn't come with a lens. I have KM AF28-75. I do have an external flash for both cameras but didn't use it today. I have a thing like Lumiquest...I forget what it's called. It goes on the external flash as a "bouncing board"...right?? The reason I used F11 is because I wanted you to be able to see all of Harrison. You know what I mean? So many of my pics are only clear on his head and then his body is blurry. I guess there's a happy medium in between...

 

Also, these were the best out of quite a few that I snapped...with different ISO settings...no flash...the pictures were dark..that's why I even thought about using the flash...I normally wouldn't use a flash outside. I will try again tomorrow evening with your suggestions...I got off work early (5 hours early) because my student was absent...I got LUCKY and got to come home...if it's the same tomorrow I'll come home and practice in the shade...if not, I'll do it in the evening...thanks so much for your advice.

[CeasarsDad]

HeatherStrella wrote:

Thanks for the reply. My unit didn't come with a lens. I have KM AF28-75. I do have an external flash for both cameras but didn't use it today. I have a thing like Lumiquest...I forget what it's called. It goes on the external flash as a "bouncing board"...right?? The reason I used F11 is because I wanted you to be able to see all of Harrison. You know what I mean? So many of my pics are only clear on his head and then his body is blurry. I guess there's a happy medium in between...

 

Good on the external flash.. Good on the "bouncing board"

 

Regarding the f stop.. Yes, there is a point that will achieve what you are looking for.. which is all of your bird in focus.. That would occure way before you needed F11.. Something like 5.6 should do it.. If you move your bird further away from the background you can further blur it.. Which is what you want to do...

 

Are you shooting in RAW? or just JPG?

 

When you say the pictures were dark.. Perhaps you had backlight and your cameras meter was locked on to that? You might have needed some exposure compensation.. Remember the formular..

 

Light background = Lighter exposure or positive.

Dark Background = Darker exposure or Negative..<br><br>Post edited by: CeasarsDad, at: 2007/05/30 02:43

[HeatherStrella]

Hey..I'm shooting in JPG...we just went out again and tried some more with your suggestions (before your last post)...I used F3.5. Most of the pics, his torso is in focus and his head is blurry...but two turned out good. I don't know about you, but I shoot like 20-30 at a time just of one thing...oh well...anyway, here they are...I don't know how or why the second one turned out the way it did in the background...it looks like wind...he was wagging his tail (that's why his tail is blurry)

 

I like this one:

 

Thanks so much for your help...I can't wait to practice more...I better give Harrison a break, though...

 

[CeasarsDad]

Heather. I'm seeing much better results with the background.. The problem with your focus is you need to focus on his head... keep the shutter pressed halfway, recompose your shot and shoot... You would be focus locking on his head.. which is what you want to do..

 

I like these shots..

 

Start shooting in RAW.. its a much better format with higher quality...

 

I'm here to help you heather... Use me..

[HeatherStrella]

I'm afraid of RAW!!! I don't remember why, but I am. :laugh:

[CeasarsDad]

That's the silliest think I ever read.. There is no reason to be afraid. Think of RAW as you digital negative. It is there so you can edited you photos without losing quailty. JPG losing quality everytime you edit and save a photo.. What you want to do is shoot in raw.. Edit you photos in photoshop or the camera's own raw software then save to jpg.. This is what I have always done.. Plus RAW gives you the ability to change things like white balance you can't change with other formats...<br><br>Post edited by: CeasarsDad, at: 2007/05/30 03:07

[HeatherStrella]

Ha...ok, I'll try it.

[TalonSis]

Heather, you really want to shoot in RAW. I like it because you can make some realy vibrant photos that way. :laugh:

 

Melissa

[Guest]

What is shooting in RAW?

[CeasarsDad]

That's when you go out naked at night.. always results in better picture quality.... better quality for those that are shooting YOU... Not what your shooting....:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

 

Sorry, I just had to.... No, shooting in RAW is shooting in a format that comes directly off the imaging sensor.. No in camera processing is done. Using this mode results in the ability of the photographer to do things to the photos he/she couldn't do in other formats... The files never lose quality like JPG's do.. It is the prefered format of many professional and advanced armatures alike.....<br><br>Post edited by: CeasarsDad, at: 2007/06/01 01:05

[Guest]

Thank you. And that feature is available in every camera?

[CeasarsDad]

No it's not FairY...

[Guest]

Ow

[splint101]

@ Ceasarsdad, what do you think of the Canon EOS 400D. You can Google it and give me some feedback what you think about the specs etc. The Nikon’s price is out of my range for what I want to use it for. I think they are over priced here in South Africa too.

[CeasarsDad]

Splint.. I like the Canon line up very well. They make great high end digitals.. Nikon and Canon are really the only players these day. In the lower price range you will be better served with the Nikon line.. The D40x is an awesome new model..

 

If you got the Canon EOS 400D you would be happy. It's a good Digital. Excellent resolution and color.. It will make some spectacular photos.

 

If you think you can get a better price on the Nikon here in the US.. Let me know. We could work something out where I would buy it for you then ship it to you... PM me if you're interested in doing this.