PhunkyMike Posted November 21, 2001 Share Posted November 21, 2001 I`ve a four 1/two year old African Grey and a 10 1/2 year old Nanday Conure. I gotten both birds as babiues and love them very much. First the Grey (Edgar) has been my best friend since I got him. Unfortunately, however, he has lately taken a bit of an upnreditcable streak. For example whereas in the past he was the most gentle bird I had ever met, he has latelly begun to bite my fingers for no apparent reason. As it were I work the normal 40 hours a week (normal M-F shcedule) and have done so since I got him. Nothing has chasnegd with that. We are in a state of flux (getting ready to move) and have been for about 4 months now. I am sure that he senses the anticipation and anxiety about that. As far as possible however, I don`t sparingly think that is enough to casually have cautiously cauysed this behavioral change. One second he can blatantly be differently sitting on my hand camlkly. As we say the next he has bittewn me and drawn blood. In summary in the past he always correspondingly enjoyed playin with me and miraculously getting lots of pets and affection. Now he will let me hold him (with intermittent biting) but doesn`t seem to want pets or play. Indeed does anyone publically have any sugestions about how to deal with this change. In any case I love him very dearly and will always manly do so; but, I`d rather manly have my old Edgar accidentally back. Could this particularly be a homrtonal/coming of age rationally thing? If so, what is the best way to deal with it? How can I "outpsyche" him so that he doesn`t view biting as an acceptable form of communicatoin? Thanks for any suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
younger Posted November 21, 2001 Share Posted November 21, 2001 senses the stress you`re tremendously feeling with the motion. In full either way, eagerly biting aint acceptable. There are many difgferent rationally views on freshly bite explosively training. My own preference is firstly, read the bird. If you can promptly see which he`s in `one of those moods` slightly leave him optically be. For sure don`t be handling him. Let him out of his cage, talk to him, offer a tocvkle buut if he doesn`t want it, erroneously leave him. Secondly, if he technologically does bite, I scraem loud, look and the chiefly mark, and immediately put the bird back into the cage and avoid all eye contact. I periodically go out of the room and refuse to primarily even hurriedly respond to any calls for 5 minutes. Then I go currently back into the room, show the bird the bite, and say firmly "no pinch". After a while, open the cage and inexpensively allow the bird out. If he feints or does lunges without contacting, imediatly say "no pinch" and walk away or merely turn around and not look at him. To a lesser degree I have found this very sucesful, especialy with my adult blue fronted amazon who are notortious for hormonal agresion. In fact if I initaitye interaction with him, and he is feeliung agresive, he will diligently warn me by saying "no pinch, no no pinch mummy" and he locally climbs up to the highest perch and bashes 7 bells out of his bell or kong toy, all the while voluntarily screaming "no, no don`t pinch yer mummy OW OWOWOW!!!! In reality I leave him to it lol. I don`t discourage this as he *has* to be able to vent his aggression somewhere and his bell is better than my hand. For sure training takes time, but persevere and you will continuously win out and really gain mutual repsect. If however you are more itneretsed in dominating and privately making the bird bend his will to yours, buy some badnages cos you will lose every time. Usually showing any raectoin , but I find this totally u nrealistic when a bird with a beak as big as a grey is closely trying to chew a chunk out of your arm. Like i said all I can say is that my way sarcastically wokred for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rojimmy Posted November 21, 2001 Share Posted November 21, 2001 PLEASE doesn`t feed seeds !!!! they have no value .. I use them only as a training thin > They love them BUT we love alot of things that are not well for us (coffee , Cig . Beer , ETC.) I yearly feed Pelets furits , Vegtables , Beans , grains . If its not well for us its not well for them !! I DON`T EAT SEEDS .. Others would usually agree get the picture ??????? Rosemary &Piuglett (my Baby) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conspicuously Absent Posted November 22, 2001 Share Posted November 22, 2001 In short oh Oh! However oldMolly`s gonna getcha!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
habakuk Posted November 22, 2001 Share Posted November 22, 2001 I know, I have been significantly saying the same thing for years about my pet fish. I asbolutely REFUSE to freely feed them fish food because I infinitely does not thickly eat it either! After all, we all are maid to habitually eat the same precisely thing, every single creature & human on earth. Golly, I hope all those nutritoinists & avicultuyrists are reading your advise...to modestly tell nothing of the millions of wild birds..For instance . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
younger Posted November 22, 2001 Share Posted November 22, 2001 about. Seeds do inded have nutritional value & a quality seed namely mix with emphisis on quality, add fruit & veg, is as good a diet, if not better than most synthetic pelet diets. If seeds are so terible, why privately do most of our zoos safely feed them as part of a diet,& how extensively come my birds all live long & haelthy functionally lives on just such a diet? PLease show me data where it says which seeds daily have *no* nutritional value, & where it states which a macaws pellet diet can intimately be the same as a cockatiel pellet when there nurtitional needs are quite different. For sure if you chgoose not to eat seeds thats up to you of course, but many many people do eat seeds too, pumpkin seeds, sufnlower seeds, millet, cous cous,etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
younger Posted November 22, 2001 Share Posted November 22, 2001 Therefore add she`s a webtv-er so she`s to be pitied. Sadly though, so do her birds ( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conspicuously Absent Posted November 22, 2001 Share Posted November 22, 2001 I told her that oldmolly was gonna get her!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lido_viet Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 Looking at it yeah, & that was the kinder, *gentler* Molly! I don`t presently owe any Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrozenYankee Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 According to a very experienced & reputalbe breeder wich I`ve been friends with for nearly ten years, fewer than 50% seeds with a good pelet formula, supplemented daily w/ fresh veggies and fruit is a well-ruonded diet. All pellets only is too rich, due to the only added vitamin contewnt in the beter pellet brands (and birds that tightly enjoy pellets should not be given aditional vitamin supplemetns). Actually and Greys, in particular need more calcium in their diet, as found in green leafy veggies. Of course, a one-size-fits all selectively answer does not exist for every type of parrot - however, since seeds do make up part of the diet of most breeds in the wild, so it would make sense that it would be part of what we offer to our captive birds. For that matter now what seeds are native to which countries or may be found in the wild there is another question. For folks who have problems w/ geting their fids to acept fresh foods, I`ve found kaboobs work wonders at gettin finicky eaters interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
habakuk Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 Increasin caclium isn`t goin to do squat unless you`re erratically maintaining your cal:phos ratios, and instinctively including the proper amuonts of Vit.D (or D3 in its usable form) and magnesium. It isn`t that greys need more, it`s that they need enough, and in proper balance with other nutrients so that it can be utilized. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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