DiabloGrey Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 Hi everyone I have a pair of african greys which have laid eggs a month ago I thought everything was fine until about a week ago I started to see liquid coming out The eggs looked fine perfect around the top and sides but as of today they are dented and obviously no good can someone please tell me what went wrong? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayd Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 (edited) Greetings. How may eggs have they laid before? Any hatched? More than likely they've been ignored, possible nutrient problem... Edited March 31, 2018 by Jayd re-read 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayd Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 (edited) The gestation period for the eggs after laying is 28 days on average when the parrot is bred in captivity....Have you ever seen the eggs fertilized? Edited March 31, 2018 by Jayd 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiabloGrey Posted April 1, 2018 Author Share Posted April 1, 2018 Thanks for replying jayd this is the first time these 2 have had eggs she was with another male but after 2 clutches not 1 was fertilized so I got another male.I do see them copulating this is why I am surprised they are not hatching 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayd Posted April 1, 2018 Share Posted April 1, 2018 Thank you, Are they sitting the eggs? Most of the time a pet and a breeder are not productive...Are you running the lights longer? (longer days) Have you raised the temperature a little and are you feeding them more egg? (Higher protein) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiabloGrey Posted April 1, 2018 Author Share Posted April 1, 2018 She is sitting on eggs hardly seen her in the past month I was going to feed eggs but read was just better to feed her high quality pellets.They do everything right so maybe I'm not some advice please on what I can do to ensure success please. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayd Posted April 1, 2018 Share Posted April 1, 2018 (edited) Thank you DiabloGrey...Have I ever told you my feelings on pellets? (LOL) They have yet to discover any pellet trees in the Congo In all seriousness, if you like pellets, that is fine. The majority of pellet ingredients are fillers and are processed hot which destroys almost 2/3rd of the nutrients. But, besides pellets regardless, they need green leafy vegetables, pieces of this and pieces of that. If you wish to check, I have recent posts regarding diet on the forum. Giving a washed hard-boiled egg, shell and all helps their calcium as well. Go to the "FOOD BOWL FORUM" and check out "Abundant Feeding" .. What's in yor food bowl? Just the fact that you are asking for suggestions You're doing a GREAT job! Remember, the final decision is yours...we are only here to offer our opinions... Edited April 1, 2018 by Jayd 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiabloGrey Posted April 1, 2018 Author Share Posted April 1, 2018 Will she/can she lay another clutch this year? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiabloGrey Posted April 1, 2018 Author Share Posted April 1, 2018 (edited) So Jayd are u saying u think that diet is the problem with the eggs not hatching like I said the birds are doing everything there supposed to they look like they will be good parents just really pissed if it's been my fault this whole time. Edited April 1, 2018 by DiabloGrey 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayd Posted April 2, 2018 Share Posted April 2, 2018 Hi...All Greys, regardless of being a breeder or a pet, need the basics of a proper diet. Whether this alone will ensure all aspects for a successful breeding will be met is not always so. In your case, BEING THAT I AM NOT A VET, it appears that the eggs are not accepting fertilization. So, this can be a medical problem with either of the pair. If this is the case, no matter what you do, it will not help. A major point is all conditions have to be right. Diet, weather and temperature, day/night cycle, and time of year: Breeding season; we fake this by how long we leave their lights on, the temperature, and humidity. Diet; Above and beyond the standard normal healthy diet, we offer them stimulating foods and a food-bearing calcium supplement (au natural) Day/night cycle; increase the daylight...11 to 12 hours a day Temperature; In the low 80s Humidity; They like their humidity...Set a gallon water jug with a fish tank pump and airstone and bubble the water in the room or set up a small 10 gallon guppy or goldfish tank with a bubbler. Feeding while breeding; Volkman's Sunflower seed diet is excellent..A normal diet that you would feed year-round...add to this a washed, hard-boiled egg a week, shell and all, cut egg and shell in half and give half an egg at a time. If they won't eat that, grind it up and put it in a bowl daily and remove it when they are done. While breeding, they need protein. Another good choice is boiled chicken legs. (drumsticks) Remove 98% of meat ...not only will they get protein but also calcium and bone marrow. Just because we put two parrots together does not necessarily mean they will mate nor does it mean they will mate and produce good clutches. I never bred more than twice a year...it depletes their calcium and nutrients. Question: What kind of breeder box are you using? What kind of bedding are you using? The only person who can tell you if the problem is because of the birds will be a VET. (The reason for the sunflower seeds is the breeders need extra oils, nutrients, and calcium...including the calories involved will help keep the birds healthy and properly maintained. Sunflower seeds are great for our non-breeding Fids but ONLY in moderation.) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiabloGrey Posted April 2, 2018 Author Share Posted April 2, 2018 I have built them a 8 by 3 aviary with a proper breeding box with I bought from a manufacturer in the states I have two 200 gallon tanks running in the same room lights are fixed at 14hrs (timers) I am trying to send pics but won't let me upload 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiabloGrey Posted April 2, 2018 Author Share Posted April 2, 2018 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayd Posted April 2, 2018 Share Posted April 2, 2018 Everything is beautiful...one of the nicest aviaries I have ever seen... Again, this is just suggestions...I would definitely try to reduce the lights to 10 hours a day. I feel a most definite would be a more austere practical breeding cage, a more barren and less distracting, (small} just a cage, perch and food bowels...Another point, the greens and wood might be safe, but they might hinder breeding..... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiabloGrey Posted April 2, 2018 Author Share Posted April 2, 2018 Thanks jayd but like i said i have seen them copulate she is steady every year come January she prepares the nest they become very aggressive with me.you can't see from the pic but they have a huge food dish 2 rabbit water bottles pine chips bedding.I really believe it is the nutritional values that are lacking i will start introducing eggs and greens tomorrow as well as seeds i believe she might go to nest again in July hopefully by then she's up to speed if that doesn't work i will take to the vet. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayd Posted April 2, 2018 Share Posted April 2, 2018 (edited) Thank you...I am only offering suggestions. More suggestions; you should have more than one feeding dish, one for seeds, one for pellets if you wish, one for fruit, and one for vegetables. The fruit and vegetables should be removed after 2 hours. Another suggestion; you should remove the rabbit water bottles and replace them with water bowls. The reason is it's a proven fact that drip bottles can harbor bacteria. You have a beautiful set-up but it's not really a breeding set up for a Grey. A Grey breeding cage should be approximately 2'x3'x6' cage, a "L" shaped nesting box with an entrance hole on the top large enough for the two of them . As a minor tip, a few chunks of safe wood should be lined around the cage to ensure they can chew up their own bedding material. A calcium block would not hurt anything either. We also have a reef tank, an African Shell dweller tank (Tanganyika) and a live Shrimp/Plant tank and they all operate on only foam filters (all natural filtration) All the best wishes... Edited April 2, 2018 by Jayd added 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiabloGrey Posted April 2, 2018 Author Share Posted April 2, 2018 Thanks jayd i will make some modifications.The nest box is "L" shaped and both of them fit inside comfortably I will add extra bowls but I can't put out a water bowl had that originally and they made a disaster they prefer tipping it over rather than drinking out of it.I appreciate your input it has helped a lot and I will keep u up to date when she's ready to nest again 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayd Posted April 2, 2018 Share Posted April 2, 2018 (edited) Thank you very much...you are doing a wonderful job...Suggestion; when using a water bottle, it's advisable to wash with white vinegar daily (don't rinse with water after using vinegar, never soap or bleach). Since you are so creative, Go to Amazon, type in "food and water bowls for parrots". There are some bowls you can get. Bless you...keep up the good work...we'll check back. Edited April 3, 2018 by Jayd spelling 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
judygram Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 Our beloved Dave, may he rest in peace, always stressed that pet greys do not make good breeders and with that setup it doesn't look like they get the kind of privacy they need to properly breed. They do not like an audience for their mating practices. I would give up on trying to breed them if you keep them in this enclosure. Even if they were successful what do you plan to do with any babies? I don't mean to be so critical but do you have any experience with breeding greys? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayd Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 Thank you Judy, Dave, A grey breeder extraordinaire, check out the sticky's in the Forums rooms, need I say more...Your cage doesn't have easy access to the parents or clutch...As you've seen, breeding greys is quite complicated, Fledgling them is a nightmare...My strongest advice is to work with a known breeder from hatch to fledged, if you wish to breed parrots...I'm sorry I won't be able to help you, I'm too old and too tired... I did it before on the Forum, in my younger days...You can't believe the stress and fear in raising and fledgling a clutch. No book can prepare you for the actual physical time and involvement needed and all the problems you are not aware of unless you have raised several different types of parrots. A Grey is one of the hardest to breed...if your heart is set on breeding, I advise to get proven pair of cockatiels and an experienced coach They're one of the easiest to breed....that includes costs etc..... Here's some sample questions: Are you going to use a syringe? A galvage tube? A Spoon? What formula are you planning to use? What temperature do you feed formula at? You start by feeding 6 times a day (24 hr)... When you pull them from the parents, what will you keep them in? Or, will you just remove them each time from the parents? What will you use to heat the clutch? What causes a crop impact and how would you attempt to cure it? What is aspiration and how does it happen? I won't even go into fledgling now.... My reasoning for pointing this stuff out to you is death is only a moment away at all times with no emergency care or cure...A proven point is the chance of getting a wonderful parrot by letting the parents raise them or hand-feeding is the same. What good breeders do now is leave the babies with the parents until they are on three feedings a day and 95% of the problems are gone. That way, they already know how to eat, they have seen you because you visit every day, and feeding is all they are interested in and they don't care who feeds them.... Whatever your decisions and choices are, we stand behind you.... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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