Erfan Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 (edited) Hello 👋 guys  i have a question,  do you guys recommend power pause technique? And can you say why ? Does this method bother grey parrots? And if you have used this technique could you plz  tell me  that it worked or not , and  if it did can you explain how exactly you used this technique ? Btw i  found out that my parrot really loves sun flower seeds and loves to play with unshelled almond  but they aren’t healthy so i actually don’t refill his feeder with this almond and sunflower seeds  and i give him fruits, but all the time im stressed that maybe He doesn’t like them and die due to starvation  so i try to give him 5-8 sunflower seeds  4 or 5 times a day as a treat is it good? But also he still hates me😂😂  He is a conservative bird :))) Edited February 26, 2018 by Erfan 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRSeedBurners Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 I wasn't sure what the 'power pause technique' was so I looked it up.  There's a youtube from birdtricks demonstrating the technique. It's just clicker training really from what I can tell. The first trainee, the cockatiel, is not what I would do. Never point at their face like that, it's always seen as threatening. I have a very tame grey and she does not tolerate pointing directly at her face - sometimes (sometimes she knows I'm playing with her and tolerates it). I do like the second girl who is training the macaw. I have always used a down turned hand with my wrist as the only exposed skin. This allows you to get the skin really tight and they can't grab and pinch/tear. I actually ball my hand into a fist to stretch the skin even tighter. It's still non-threatening and since you have confidence they can't hurt you, it will help lessen your fear and allow you to not over-react to a strike.  Calm smooth movements go a long way with a scaredy-cat Grey. I'm no bird trainer but the technique, what I watched of it, looks ok. It's just conditioning them to your presence and touch.  2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfan Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 2 hours ago, SRSeedBurners said: I wasn't sure what the 'power pause technique' was so I looked it up.  There's a youtube from birdtricks demonstrating the technique. It's just clicker training really from what I can tell. The first trainee, the cockatiel, is not what I would do. Never point at their face like that, it's always seen as threatening. I have a very tame grey and she does not tolerate pointing directly at her face - sometimes (sometimes she knows I'm playing with her and tolerates it). I do like the second girl who is training the macaw. I have always used a down turned hand with my wrist as the only exposed skin. This allows you to get the skin really tight and they can't grab and pinch/tear. I actually ball my hand into a fist to stretch the skin even tighter. It's still non-threatening and since you have confidence they can't hurt you, it will help lessen your fear and allow you to not over-react to a strike.  Calm smooth movements go a long way with a scaredy-cat Grey. I'm no bird trainer but the technique, what I watched of it, looks ok. It's just conditioning them to your presence and touch.  Thank you for answering. well , i didn’t pay attention about making eye contact with my parrot thanks for reminding.  I always make eye contact with my parrot and i think that’s  why he freaks out much more than I expect 😬 I won’t do it again 😬 P.S:  I watched that videos and that macaw was very cute:)) Grey are so sensitive I think, and i owned a grey parrot about 3 week ago  ,  and i wanto share my process and improvment every week , don’t miss it :)) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timbersmom Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 Do you have access to parrot pellet type food? You are right about sunflower seed not being the best choice for the majority of his diet. As for fruit, greys aren't supposed to have a high sugar content so fruit should be limited too. I'm thinking a small piece a couple of times a week is what is recommended. Your go-to for diet should be vegetables. There are recipes on the forum for "mash" that you might look at. This thread on the forum talks about vegetables: The entire thread on feeding your bird has a lot of good information. Be sure to check out the lists of things your bird CANNOT have. I had no idea when I got Timber that there were foods that would literally kill him, but there are. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfan Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 1 hour ago, Timbersmom said: Do you have access to parrot pellet type food? You are right about sunflower seed not being the best choice for the majority of his diet. As for fruit, greys aren't supposed to have a high sugar content so fruit should be limited too. I'm thinking a small piece a couple of times a week is what is recommended. Your go-to for diet should be vegetables. There are recipes on the forum for "mash" that you might look at. This thread on the forum talks about vegetables: The entire thread on feeding your bird has a lot of good information. Be sure to check out the lists of things your bird CANNOT have. I had no idea when I got Timber that there were foods that would literally kill him, but there are. You are the best ! Thanks a bunch 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayd Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 Greetings: (Maggie typing for Jay)...To be polite, Bird tricks and I have not agreed with each other for over a decade, it seems. I personally don't believe in their techniques. Okay, on with the good stuff...Timbersmom is right on... Veggies: Green leafy (kale, mustard greens, dandelion greens, (not too much spinach because it has salt), etc., broccoli, cauliflower, (our Salsa loves cooked cauliflower with peanut butter mixed in ) carrots (slightly boiled because the cooking process brings out the nutrients), sweet potatoes/yams, red/orange/yellow bell peppers, zucchini, squash, peas, lentils, and split peas, etc. Nuts: Almonds, (crack the shell at the tip so your Grey can dig out the nut), walnuts (a total of three a day is great), and pistachios (No salt). Fruits: A couple times a week...red, seeded grapes, papaya, apple, and mango, etc. Legumes: Great for parrots, cooked organic no-salt garbanzo beans 2-3 times a week...too many and they bond and remove other nutrients. Chicken and turkey (white meat), leg bones, tuna (albacore no-salt), can be served a couple times a week. Scrambled or hard boiled egg, cut in half and served with the shell intact is good a couple times a week. No salt peanut butter, (my brain is dead right now...I am sure I have forgotten stuff, but this is what we feed our parrots and what we have fed them for the last 100 years.... Pellets: As much as they are advertised, I have yet to find a pellet tree...Pellets are mostly meal, cooked at high heat which destroys a large amount of nutrients and are man-made. SO...keep a small bowl of pellets if you wish 24/7 in the cage. (No fruit or colored pellets). The main diet we use is Volkman's Large Hookbill Safflower formula (Amazon)...this is the diet we have used since the 70's with all of our fids. It is not necessary for mashes or elaborate meals...everything here can be eaten or shared off of a dinner table. They also like cooked oatmeal out of your bowl with raisins...low or non-fat yogurt, or cottage cheese. A treat: Birdie Bread...Jiffy Cornbread mix with two eggs (shells and all), two jr sized baby food (your choice-I used sweet potato/apple mix for example), mixed veggies (really, whatever you want to throw in there...), bake per instructions as muffins or pan and cut for snack...can be frozen for later too... 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acappella Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 I wouldn't worry about training yet. You have to build up a trusting relationship with your bird first. If he's still screaming when you get close to the cage he's not ready for training in my opinion. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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