What do you do when your being bit?

[KatieG17]

So today marks the 3rd bite from Paco, 2 to me and this last one to my fiance tonight. So what do you do? Im not talking about a beak, or nip, or small bite. Im saying what do you do when your bird latches on for 5+ sec with extreme strength, moving his bottom jaw back and fourth piercing through your skin. These have been some nasty bites lol. And staying calm and "taking it" is easier said then done. Not that either of us have freaked out and yelled, but we did let out a loud "ow let go!":mad:

[Brat Birds]

That is pretty much what I do. I also get up to throw them just a enough off balance to make them let go. Then they go back to their cage!

[Luvparrots]

Fortunately, I have never been bitten to the point of drawing blood. I also do not go with the philosophy of "don't show pain" How will your parrot know that you are being hurt if you don't let them know. I do react and say no or stop that or whatever. They understand and like I said I may get a nibble but never a bleeding bite and my parrots do not continue. I do not punish my parrots, I just walk away with a scowl and a frown. Each bird is different you need to find what works for you.

[BaileysPapa]

A trick that I learned long ago, in my job with Animal Rescue, is to blow in their face. If they won't let go, it takes their breath away for a second, and they let go. This has worked with birds, dogs, cats, and other animals. It does not work all the time, with very animal, but, it has worked for me many times.

[chezron]

This painful thing has never happened to me as Brutus gives CLEAR signals about when he is accessible. Blowing and jiggling can reset his frame of mind and are things you can do.

[KatieG17]

Thanks for this particular response! There is a Specialty parrot store near me that we have became close to the owner. She also told me to blow in their face if they won't let go.

[Ray P]

There are three excepted methods of distraction.

1. Earthquake method.

2. The drop method.

3. The Roll method

Each woks very well when used properly. {PROPERLY}

The earthquake and drop method are all most the same. You drop your arm suddenly or move it up and down like an earthquake and just enough to take them off balance. Just don`t over do it, You just want to distract and not shake your bird to the point of breaking the trust. The same with the roll, you roll your arm back and forth enough to take them off balance. Again don`t over do it

When they stop biting, talk to them and tell them what a good bird they are.

I like the two bite method. Say no bite once, if they don`t stop than say no bite again and at the same time use one of the methods and when they let go tell them good bird for not biting.

Again don`t over do it. Don`t shake them to hard or over roll your arm to fast or hard.

[Inara]

Are there any commonalities that are going on right before the bites that you can think of? Where is Paco when this happens? Is it around the same time of day? Was Paco on you when it happened? The old: who, what, where, when -- can often lead us to the why, even if the clues are very small. If Paco was already standing on you, did he feel unstable and latch on hard for balance? Was he hungry or tired? Can you recall how he looked physically right before the bite(s)? CSI: Paco the Parrot

 

Good for you for not freaking out and sending Paco flying across the room from your own natural pain response. That takes moxy

[KatieG17]

Are there any commonalities that are going on right before the bites that you can think of? Where is Paco when this happens? Is it around the same time of day? Was Paco on you when it happened? The old: who, what, where, when -- can often lead us to the why, even if the clues are very small. If Paco was already standing on you, did he feel unstable and latch on hard for balance? Was he hungry or tired? Can you recall how he looked physically right before the bite(s)? CSI: Paco the Parrot

 

Good for you for not freaking out and sending Paco flying across the room from your own natural pain response. That takes moxy

 

Ok.. so! Lol

 

1st bite.. approx 7:30pm, she was on my bathroom floor, staring at me with her head cocked, kept saying "back to your cage paco" wouldn't budge. I kneel down about 2ft from her (figured id give it a try) put my hand out, said "step up paco" she walked right to me even being 2 ft away, not scared looking or feathers down, just came right up, and as quick as a viper she latched on into the palm of my hand vicously drawing blood lol.

 

2nd, approx 8pm, I had put her on her cage after her following me around the house for a hour, (she even climbed up on my leg, that being my first physical contact with her)... Everytime I walked by her cage shed come to the very very edge of the door reaching one leg out everytime I walked by. I'm thinking wow she wants to be picked up, I ognored it the first couple times, then figured why not. Next time she did it I put my arm out and said "wanna step up paco?" She put one arm just as she touched me, then again quick as a viper she latched onto my fourarm not letting go and digging her beak threw my skin, resulting in a 1" scar.

 

3rd. Approx 7:30 pm last night, my fiance went to put her in her cage ( using her Stick, which is what she came with ) I guess he tried to put her down on her pearch and didn't want to get off, resulting in her lunging across the 1 1/2ft stick and latching onto his finger resulting in a very nasty bloody bite.

 

 

As for the first two, since I didn't get to see the 3rd she didn't show any signs of being scared or anything like that

[danmcq]

Many good comments and things to try by all!

 

One thing I will say. My personal opinion when a bird bites like described with clear intent on doing harm by clamping down hard and grinding the beak deeper and deeper is not the time to sit and act like nothing is happening. They know what they are doing and if they get swooshed off they know why. They are highly intelligent and know it is not the humans fault they got a firm NO BITE as they got earthquaked, blown or launched off by dropping your hand quickly. If they bite another bird like that, I guarantee you they are going to get an instant reaction. This is all they have to defend themselves and they use them in the wild as well on other parrots if provoked to that point.

 

My grey can deliver a light to firm beaking to let you know he does not wish to step up or is done with scratches. He can also decide to perform a clamp down, grind and hang on during arm wobbling, blowing in his face etc. I must launch him in to flight to stop one of those blood gushing bites before it literally hits bone or completely removes a chunk of flesh deeply. They don't happen that often, but when they do, I certainly do not sit and act like I don't feel it or like it is not going to possibly severely cause harm by severing a nerve or tendon.

 

So as others said, you really need to learn quickly what causes those bites and try avoiding whatever circumstance it is that brings one on. Also, try to see even the most imperceptible body language indicating one is about to happen. Sometimes you can't because they have poker faces when they wish and totally catch the best of us off guard sometimes. But, as you learn, you'll reduce the frequency of receiving a damaging bite.

 

In your case that I just saw posted after I had posted, is this is a rescued grey with baggage that a stick was used to step up by the previous owner because of the biting. This is going to be a long process to stop. Use the perch at all times. Watch for quick movements to get to your hand and block it with a fist of iron with the back of your hands skin drawn tight so a bite cannot be delivered. It is going to take a while, maybe months to stop or greatly reduce these bites that Paco has become used to delivering in the previous homes. The best thing you can do right now is build the relationship with him on you. Make him earn the reward being on you only if he can do so with no bitting. If he bites, take him on the perch to a tree stand or the cage and leave him there. Tell him No Bite as you do so. Then talk to him and interact with him from a distance that he cannot reach you. This is going to take time and patience to get resolved from years of this behavior being developed. Some greys are not cuddle muffins at all and really do not like upclose physical contact, but love attention from a distance of whatever they think is "Their Space". You can only determine these things about Paco as you interact with him over the next months.

 

Post often and ask questions. We're all here pulling for you and Paco!

 

Here is a link showing the fist of iron. The Bird Whisperer passed away a few years ago, but his brother has sworn to maintain this site in his memory. Many a damaged baggage ridden bird was brought back in to control by him working with literally thousands of people.

 

http://www.thebirdwhisperer.com/fist_of_iron.htm

Edited September 23, 2013 by danmcq

[Mistyparrot]

So today marks the 3rd bite from Paco, 2 to me and this last one to my fiance tonight. So what do you do? Im not talking about a beak, or nip, or small bite. Im saying what do you do when your bird latches on for 5+ sec with extreme strength, moving his bottom jaw back and fourth piercing through your skin. These have been some nasty bites lol. And staying calm and "taking it" is easier said then done. Not that either of us have freaked out and yelled, but we did let out a loud "ow let go!":mad:

 

I think "Damn I knew I forgot something when I went to the pharmacy. More sticking plasters!!"

:mad:

Steve n Misty

[Inara]

Ok.. so! Lol

 

1st bite.. approx 7:30pm, <snip>

 

2nd, approx 8pm, <snip>

 

3rd. Approx 7:30 pm <snip.

 

 

One commonality I see is the time of evening. Many birds can get cranky when it is past their bed time and while they may like to be active for a bit before roosting for the night, often they enjoy time after that to preen and start winding down and may make some noises or talk to themselves just to ensure that they are not alone before sleeping.

 

Perhaps, ensuring that she is back in her cage (using the stick or mobile perch to get there) by about 7 PM and then dimming the lights in the area of her cage and allowing her to get enough sleep may help her start to settle as she becomes accustomed to living with you. Also, if every time she is picked up when she is out of her cage, she is taken back to her cage, she may have that figured out and knows that's where she's headed.

 

Taking a look at your household schedule, how early does everyone get up and how late does everyone stay up can help you to know if Paco is getting enough rest. (Think sun up to sun down for a bird, even though we as modern humans stay up much later).

 

I think it is interesting that she was putting her foot out as you were going by. I used to have an (traumatized rescue) Amazon that would put his foot up as a warning, as he had been grabbed when being taken in and out of his cage prior to his living with me. Or in Paco's case, perhaps when she stuck her foot up, someone gave her a treat through the bars of her cage, rather than having her step up.

 

Certainly, you might feel a bit skittish about her "hit and run" tactics when it comes to biting, but at least for these three episodes, there is somewhat of a pattern -- that being time of day. I'd suggest, just keeping track if there are more serious bites, and eventually, a pattern might reveal itself.

 

Also lots of other great advice here. She's a little mystery right now, but you'll come to know her and she you. She's a lucky gal to have found you.

Edited September 23, 2013 by Inara

[danmcq]

GreYt observation Inara!!!

[judygram]

I have never experienced a bad bite from any of my birds even Josey my grey, she has beaked me and applied pressure a few times but never breaking the skin so I don't really know what I would do if she clamped down and held on grinding in deeper but she would definitely know I was displeased with her behavior.

[KatieG17]

As far as I know, the previous owners, the wife was the only one who could handle her theyve had her since she was a baby, But I still believe her stick was her main transportation from spot to spot.

 

As far as our home schedule, I work 6am till 2:30pm, but am out of the house before 5:30am when its still dark out. My fiance uncovers her around 6:45am, I get home around 3:15 and let her out right away, and shes out till around 8:30 when she gets put back in her cage and I cover her at 9pm. I try to get as much time out of the cage for her as I can, Seeing as our Macaw is outside her cage at all times.

 

I will just have to look for a pattern!

[KatieG17]

1st

 

 

2nd

 

 

3rd

 

[Mistyparrot]

Ouch Katie!

I think it's about time Greys evolved lips instead of beaks!

 

Steve n Misty

[KatieG17]

I Look at those pics, then I look at her and I just want to pick her up and snuggle her! Shes just so cute lol hopefully she gets over this one day So we can interact more than just on her cage!

[Timbersmom]

I had bites that looked much like that the first five months or so with Timber. All I can say is it does get better!

[Inara]

Ouch, ouch, and OUCH. You will likely never know all that went on in her former home, but the good news is that you do know what goes on in yours

 

How is Paco when your Macaw is nearby? Did any of the bites take place in close proximity or in sight of the Macaw? Just trying to help brainstorm a little bit here.

 

Even though we feel we're being kind by allowing as much time out of the cage as possible, some birds can want and need more 'secure' time. Since Paco is being awakened at about 6:45, putting her back in her cage at about 8:30 PM would be about a 14 hour wake schedule for her (even if she's taking a few bird naps during the day while you're gone) and from your schedule of when you get home, about 5+ hours at a stretch out of her cage. She may need and want more of that evening cage time to wind down even though you would love to have her out and be with her. For awhile, you might try adjusting her schedule so that she can get more time, i.e. rest, in her cage in the evening --maybe putting her back in at about 6:45 PM, and see if that helps. Again, just brainstorming here -- this may not even be on the right track

 

Your patience and Paco living with you over time, will go a long way for her. Inara and I are cheering you on! :)

Edited September 24, 2013 by Inara

[katana600]

Early on when we brought home a troubled, multiple rehomed Miss Gilbert, she gave me a couple unexpected wicked hard bites. At that time I read about greys being very subtle with their cues and if we miss the subtle clues, they will use a fierce bite to get their point across. The trouble is, once they start biting, sometimes that becomes their "go to" first reflex. In our case, I learned I was doing too much too fast. While I have not been bitten in a couple of years, that is because I don't give her the opportunity. As much as I want to bury my face in her wonderful scent and hold her close, she doesn't have the trust or ability to regulate her emotions when a human gets a little too close. Of course there are wonderful times, when she will come to me. It is happening more and more where she will come to me and allow me to pick her up. It just takes time and figuring our what it is she wants and what she is capable of giving. My heart goes out to you for the bites you have endured. As Timber's mom said, it does get better. The sweet thing about Miss Gilbert is that she would strike out and bite viciously and suddenly and looked completely surprised as if she didn't do it on purpose followed by an immediate pleading "Sorry" "Sorry" "Gilbert sorry".