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Help !! Me and my 6.5 weeks old CAG.


ujwaldignified

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With reference to this thread....http://www.greyforums.net/forums/showthread.php?193322-Hello-Everyone....Please clear the following to me..

 

1. How big should be the brooding nest? I have placed him in a 12inch(L) x 7inch(W) x 8 inch(D) aquarium. He sometimes tries to stretch and in the weeks to come her will outgrow this nest. What do u suggest to use a brooding nest? I have another spare aquarium of width 1ft and length 3ft and 1.5ft deep

(Ref

)

 

2. I am just covering the nest top 75% with a folded cloth to keep it as warm as possible. Since its in my room with a room temp of about 28C. Should i do anything to keep him warm.

 

3. Can i take him out of the nest and place him on a towel for feeding?

(I know he is not at an age to explore anything in the outside world, he should just eat and sleep. So no plans of let him play outside yet.)

 

4. Feeding - I am sticking to the feeding schedule given at the Nursery section.

He begs for more even after 45cc of feeding which is the higher number according to the table given in the nursery section. Should i give him more untill he refuses or do i stick to the table?

 

5. I have my own doubt on the breeder if he has fed him with high temperatures like 105F(40C). I guess he must have fed it with room temp of about 82F(28C)(i dont know whether this is possible)

(Sorry...UNKNOWN BREEDER in India)

Should i start feeding him at 105F(40C) right away or slowly raise the feeding temp at every feeding time?

 

Thanks in advance.

Edited by ujwaldignified
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A brooder isn't a nest. It's an area that the bird goes into after he/she leaves the clutch----You would need an old 10 gal. fish tank. The picture of that area where the bird is being fed is fine for feeding only. The tank would need a soft towel and if possible, a heating pad put under the tank on the low setting. The heating pad would also have a towel covering it. This keeps the tank relatively at the same constant temp. On the top of the tank, you would need a soft towel to cover only half of the top to prevent drafts. In that tank you would need a very soft type of item such a teddy bear so the bird can snuggle against it when sleeping. After being fully fed, a bird usually goes to sleep shortly afterward.

 

It's too bad that you can't bring the bird back to the breeder but anyway, abundance feeding has to do with letting the bird eat as much as it wants even though you may think the bird is finally weaned. The bird will accept the food and eventually refuse it when it wants to.. In other words, the bird is telling you when to stop the feeding. There's not set time when a bird is weaned. You shouldn't set a time. Let the bird do it even if it's much more than you'd like. Some take 14 weeks and some take 16 to 18 to 20 weeks or even more and also applies to present feeeding. Abundance feeding produces a less nervous bired in the future.If your bird is squawking after you finished, he obviously wants more and you should give it to him. Give him all he wants. When he doesn't want more, he'll refuse to take it or spit up what doesn't want. That applies to all feedings. As far as decreasing a feeding, the bird will also tell when it's time to stop a certain feeding. He simply won't take it. That';s the time to have soft veggies around with some hard cereal like plain cheerios laying a round he won't eat them but he'll push them around.

 

As far as your hand feeding method------I'll explain it in a different way. If you were to go to a doctor and he has to give you an injection of something, he would fill the syringe and then point the needle up in the air and slightly push the plunger until only fluid comes out. What he's done is to remove all the air in the syringe before sticking you with it. If he didn't do it, he would be pushing air into your body which will cause problems. In you video, the syringe has a lot of air in it which can cause problems so you have to do what a doctor does.

 

******Feeding - I am sticking to the feeding schedule given at the Nursery section.

He begs for more even after 45cc of feeding which is the higher number according to the table given in the nursery section. Should i give him more untill he refuses or do i stick to the table?******

 

That thread is a basic chart and doesn't speak of abundance feeding because it's up to a person to do it. Some do, some don't. Make sure the bird is fed at the same time everyday.

 

****3. Can i take him out of the nest and place him on a towel for feeding?*****

 

I already answered that.

 

Continue to read our handfeeding thread because comparing medium/large sized parrots to budgies and other tiny birds is totally different.

Edited by Dave007
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Thanks a lot for the support. However, i am feeding him with a spoon now. So no more syringe and no more uncomfort. He was very sleepy in that while that video was being filmed though he was being fed. Dont know why...May be he had no sleep when he was with the seller. :(

Now he sleeps al the time and is being fed as much as he wants. And then as some experts in the forum have told...immediately after his meal he plays for sometime and dozes off most of the time till the next meal time which is after 7 hours (while feeding him 3 times a day according to the chart given at the handfeeding instructions given in this section.)

 

Now tell me people....Should i be giving him some food again between the scheduled meal...if he is begging when i try peeping into his box?

Assuming that he is hungry and is good to feed him when he wants, wont it spoil the routine and get overfed? Do you people think its good for his young system if i feed when ever he begs.

Will he know how much to eat or would he overfeed himself leading to some digestive problems?

Please explain.

Thanks in advance again.

 

A brooder isn't a nest. It's an area that the bird goes into after he/she leaves the clutch--You would need an old 10 gal. fish tank. The picture of that area where the bird is being fed is fine for feeding only. The tank would need a soft towel and if possible, a heating pad put under the tank on the low setting. The heating pad would also have a towel covering it. This keeps the tank relatively at the same constant temp. On the top of the tank, you would need a soft towel to cover only half of the top to prevent drafts. In that tank you would need a very soft type of item such a teddy bear so the bird can snuggle against it when sleeping. After being fully fed, a bird usually goes to sleep shortly afterward.

 

It's too bad that you can't bring the bird back to the breeder but anyway, abundance feeding has to do with letting the bird eat as much as it wants even though you may think the bird is finally weaned. The bird will accept the food and eventually refuse it when it wants to.. In other words, the bird is telling you when to stop the feeding. There's not set time when a bird is weaned. You shouldn't set a time. Let the bird do it even if it's much more than you'd like. Some take 14 weeks and some take 16 to 18 to 20 weeks or even more and also applies to present feeeding. Abundance feeding produces a less nervous bired in the future.If your bird is squawking after you finished, he obviously wants more and you should give it to him. Give him all he wants. When he doesn't want more, he'll refuse to take it or spit up what doesn't want. That applies to all feedings. As far as decreasing a feeding, the bird will also tell when it's time to stop a certain feeding. He simply won't take it. That';s the time to have soft veggies around with some hard cereal like plain cheerios laying a round he won't eat them but he'll push them around.

 

As far as your hand feeding method------I'll explain it in a different way. If you were to go to a doctor and he has to give you an injection of something, he would fill the syringe and then point the needle up in the air and slightly push the plunger until only fluid comes out. What he's done is to remove all the air in the syringe before sticking you with it. If he didn't do it, he would be pushing air into your body which will cause problems. In you video, the syringe has a lot of air in it which can cause problems so you have to do what a doctor does.

 

******Feeding - I am sticking to the feeding schedule given at the Nursery section.

He begs for more even after 45cc of feeding which is the higher number according to the table given in the nursery section. Should i give him more untill he refuses or do i stick to the table?******

 

That thread is a basic chart and doesn't speak of abundance feeding because it's up to a person to do it. Some do, some don't. Make sure the bird is fed at the same time everyday.

 

****3. Can i take him out of the nest and place him on a towel for feeding?*****

 

I already answered that.

 

Continue to read our handfeeding thread because comparing medium/large sized parrots to budgies and other tiny birds is totally different.

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*****To my biggest surprise today My 7.5 weeks old CAG ate about 100cc of Kaytee hand feeding formula. I dont how hungry he was just bcz i fed him an hour late than the schedule.

I was taken aback when he was begging for more after about 10 mins when i stopped out of fear.*****

 

 

Well, you wanted to know what abundance feeding was and you just saw an example of it. I don't know what you feared but your bird was doing exactly what every other chick does when it's hungry. Just remember that the only way to over feed a chick is by trying to stuff formula down it's throat after he's shown that he absolutely doesn't want more. If your bird is obviously asking for more than simply give it to him. When he's finished he'll refuse anything extra. The chart here is for basic amounts but that doesn't mean that every chick will be satisfied with that amount. You've got to do things according to what the chick is saying, not what a standard chart is saying. If he wants more at each feeding simply give it to him. Let the bird tell you to lessen the amount.

 

PS---you deleted your post while I was typing. Don't know why though.

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OMG I simply dont know how it got deleted. Sorry.

 

And Yes...i understand that. Sometimes he is not very craving as he will be usually but still opens his mouth when i keep the spoon in front of his beak, but not so cravingly. So, when he still opens his mouth with disinterest and that is when i am afraid to continue. He takes it but just bcz i kept it in front of his beak. I feel am oerfeeding him when i give him and he eats it before he demands for it.

*****To my biggest surprise today My 7.5 weeks old CAG ate about 100cc of Kaytee hand feeding formula. I dont how hungry he was just bcz i fed him an hour late than the schedule.

I was taken aback when he was begging for more after about 10 mins when i stopped out of fear.*****

 

 

Well, you wanted to know what abundance feeding was and you just saw an example of it. I don't know what you feared but your bird was doing exactly what every other chick does when it's hungry. Just remember that the only way to over feed a chick is by trying to stuff formula down it's throat after he's shown that he absolutely doesn't want more. If your bird is obviously asking for more than simply give it to him. When he's finished he'll refuse anything extra. The chart here is for basic amounts but that doesn't mean that every chick will be satisfied with that amount. You've got to do things according to what the chick is saying, not what a standard chart is saying. If he wants more at each feeding simply give it to him. Let the bird tell you to lessen the amount.

 

PS---you deleted your post while I was typing. Don't know why though.

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You will see him live and thrive for years. :) In India, i discovered, there are lots and lots of CAG sold unweaned and most make it. The survival rate is high. Its because of basic common sense of the people in general here is high. People panic next to taking right action at the right time here.

And thanks to all.

P.S. Not to mean racial here. Was trying to infer the global survey. :) Cheers.

I'm happy to hear he's still alive and well!
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He is eating about 40cc in the morning and evening. But at night, he is loading like a monster.....100cc. :cool:

 

I've only handfed baby lovebirds. I fed them four times a day, and they were hungriest at the first and third feedings of the day (equivalent of breakfast and dinner). They hardly ate anything at the last feeding, so it was the first to be eliminated.

 

Keep up the good work!

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Today he has droppings/poop very loose and sticky but the color remains the same as everyday light green. Can you please tell me what should i be doing.

 

Symptoms.

1. Baby bird is active enough as normally he would be.

2. droppings/poop very loose and sticky.

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Heyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy I AM SO HAPPY and relieved to see my baby very active now. I guess a drop of NorMetrogyl syrup worked. He had regurgitated most of what he took though. Atleast something would have gone inside and it has worked i guess. His activity level seems to be normal now.

Check this video for his latest poop and please let me know if this is normal. As i understand from lot of threads in the nursery section, this poop is not normal and is not good if it happens often. So please tell what should i do to treat for this.

As far as the feeding quantity i would limit upto 60cc as my common sense and experience says.

What do you people have to say mates?

Edited by ujwaldignified
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Folks!

My baby now regurgitates nearly 50% of every pump from the syringe although he begs for the next doze. The below is the pic of his droppings. Its the solid part of it. There is amount an ml of urine also in it.

Can you guys please show me a pick of baby bird's poop which should be considered normal, feeding on Kaytee's handfeeding formula? Thank you.

His activity is pretty normal but i guess the symptoms of any possible problem was masked till now. But now the symptom of regurgitating the feeding even when he is hungry to the extent of begging, to my guess, comes up as a first symptom of some digestive problem with him.

Is the poop in the pic the undigested formula?

Can someone please help me. Thank you.

IMAG0574.jpg

P.S.THIS PIC SHOWS THE POOP AND NOT THE REGURGITATED FOOD.

Edited by ujwaldignified
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I think he has made it. :)

 

He is fantastically normal in his activity now. He is very much showing signs of gaining strength in his legs. I saw him biting and tonguing his one leg while standing on the other leg. This he was not able to do yesterday and day before. YES!! From the readings of many other websites i presume (Plz correct me if am wrong) that his poop shown in the above pic is normal while handfeeding due to 1part formula : 2 part water ratio. (Confirm plz).

 

Also, i had a doubt as to why is his crop bulbed up like a baloon looking like air filled. I was relieved when i read this below link

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Birds-General-2349/possible-air-crop-african.htm

 

He also has begun regurgitating during feeding which he was never doing all these days.

I feed him using syringe and do not give him at one go.en I give him about 2-3cc and stop for 4 to 5 seconds

and then go for another 2-3cc, giving him time to swallow and go for the next only when he begs.

I have been feeding him with this strategy since i got him.

 

>Plz confirm this to me... I remember reading that "there is his Airway/windpipe on to his right and we should feed him from the left". Or something like that.

Can someone plz explain how to do that? Bcz sometimes he turns his head and bends to both the sides for sometime while bobbing during feeding the formula.

 

Regards and thanks in advance,

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>Plz confirm this to me... I remember reading that "there is his Airway/windpipe on to his right and we should feed him from the left". Or something like that.

Can someone plz explain how to do that? Bcz sometimes he turns his head and bends to both the sides for sometime while bobbing during feeding the formula.

 

When I hand fed my TAG, and again I was supervised by professionals, I was told that yes the air pipe is on the right side, so I learned to feed her from the right side of her mouth with my right hand, and with the end of the syringe angled downwards towards the left side of the throat. Also the bobbing is really normal, when feeding my Grey and watching others be fed they bob their heads. Eva would start bobbing as soon as she saw the syringe and still does it sometimes to my fingers!

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Thank you. :)

When I hand fed my TAG, and again I was supervised by professionals, I was told that yes the air pipe is on the right side, so I learned to feed her from the right side of her mouth with my right hand, and with the end of the syringe angled downwards towards the left side of the throat. Also the bobbing is really normal, when feeding my Grey and watching others be fed they bob their heads. Eva would start bobbing as soon as she saw the syringe and still does it sometimes to my fingers!
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What to do if the crop slows down?

Can i mash pealed apple and mix 20-25% with the formula?

 

I was talking to my breeder today about your baby and she recommended having antibiotics on hand in the event of a bacterial infection. She said that India is the best place to get antibiotics for baby birds. She is in the States and she gets her antibiotics from India. She said bacterial infections are the biggest problem when hand feeding and spoon feeding can increase the risk. (I didn't ask why she thought that.)

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I was talking to my breeder today about your baby and she recommended having antibiotics on hand in the event of a bacterial infection. She said that India is the best place to get antibiotics for baby birds. She is in the States and she gets her antibiotics from India. She said bacterial infections are the biggest problem when hand feeding and spoon feeding can increase the risk. (I didn't ask why she thought that.)

Woow Thanks a lot. Can you please ask her as to which all antibiotics do i need to keep on reserve?

 

However, His crop was completely empty this morning and He has begun eating normally and i am sticking to 60cc per feeding for now. In another 2 days i would try giving him more than 60cc one feeding per day and the rest 2 feeding would again be at 60cc. And slowly increase.

 

P.S. Nice to hear that antibiotics are imported from India. Ya India must be in the top for antibiotic production because of the dense forest of Southern India.

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I guess bcz USA is a cold region AGs are prone to diseases more than that in India. Here in Bangalore, Southern India the room temp will be somewhere around 26 to 28 deg C and i guess its

a very favourable condition with the humidity of around 65%, they should do well. However, water sprays once in a while is not a bad idea though.

:)

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