Karcar Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 Hello Gang, I picked up from craigslist a fantastic deal on a cage and two play stands, It was after I had paid the guy and loaded the stuff in the back of my truck did I find out why it was all for sale so cheap, he stated he just wanted rid of it because it was a sad reminder of his Grey that just died the day before. I ask why the bird died and he said he didn't know he had made an appt with the vet but the bird died before the appt. date. He said he had noticed the bird was losing weight and that his poop had started to really smell bad. Anyway I took the cage and playstand and now have them outside I have been scrubbing them with bleach and every type of cleaner I have. I am concerned about re-using them. Do you thing it will be safe to use them for my new baby TAG? Thank, Karen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayd Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 Since you've used bleach and maybe other cleaners, you'll need to rinse it many times with clear water and let it dry for a number of days, then soak it a number of times with clear vinegar, leaving it in the sun. Please list what cleaners you used, some are never safe even after drying..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elvenking Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 To clean cages...most of the time all you need to do is let water soak into whatever is on the bars...and scrub it about 5 minutes later with a bristle brush. Repeat until all is removed. I have soaked grates covered with numerous poops and it works quite well. So no need to launch a full cleaner assault. After that...you can use a pet safe cleaner to disinfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danmcq Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 It sounds like you did the right thing in using a bleach solution. That will clean any bacterial or viral bugs that may have resided in the cage or on the stands. As others said, rinse thoroughly, let them sun dry, which the UVA and UVB by the way also kill nasty germs and you will be good to good. Too bad the previous owner suffered such a heartbreaking loss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luvparrots Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 (edited) Now I would go over that bleach with vinegar and water at least a couple of three times and a good sun drying in the outside. I am a great fan of vinegar and water as a cage cleaner. I am retired so I am able to clean my fids' cages every morning and it is a great time to do the "poop check" to see that every fid is in tiptop shape. Edited September 12, 2010 by luvparrots Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayd Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 The best and safest cleaner and disinfectant is vinegar, Sanitizing / Disinfectant: A combination of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide make a cheap, effective and non-toxic disinfectant agent and is said to be more effective at killing pathogens than bleach. . As it is non-toxic, you can use it to disinfect fruits and vegetables, as well as pet toys, equipment and cages. In tests run at Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, pairing Vinegar and Hydrogen Peroxide mists, kills virtually all Salmonella, Shigella, or E. coli bacteria on heavily contaminated food and surfaces. Thanks Jayd Directions: You need TWO spray bottles. DO NOT MIX the solutions together. Put straight vinegar in one and straight hydrogen peroxide in the other spray bottle. NOTE: Light destroys peroxide rather quickly. It's best to leave it in its original bottle and screw in a spray head. DO NOT DILUTE THEM. Remember for any sanitizer to work properly, the surface has to be clean before you use it. When you want to sanitize a surface (vegetables, cutting board, counters, sink, cages, toys. toilets, floors, etc.), spray one (it doesn't matter which one you use first) on the surface, then you spray on the other. When they mix, for a brief time the chemical action of the two make a very powerful sanitizer. You can rinse off the surface afterwards, if you want, but the result is non-toxic. Fortunately it is cheap. BTW, we use it in the bathroom to sanitize the counters, toilets, floors, etc. http://www.google.com/search?q=organic+apple+cider+vinigar+for+parrots&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=com.yahoo:en-US:official&client=firefox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danmcq Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 Jay - Thanks for the links and article on Vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. This is certainly the preferable natural way to clean normal items in the house without the toxic fumes of bleach or other commercial cleaners. I use it as well for cleaning surfaces and all veggies. I will say though, when dealing with cleaning cages that other birds or critters lived in, I pull out the stops. There is no better germ killer than Chlorine bleach at a 99.9 percent kill rate of not only Bacteria, but all viruses as well. Vinegar does a fair job at around a 90 percent kill rate. I would not risk that 10 percent when I have the cage outside and never to enter my house before complete sanitizing to ensure any deadly disease is eliminated. There is no worries about the chlorine gas inside a home as it is all happening outdoors. Just call me a "Germ Fanatic" when it comes to a used cage. I will say though, this is totally personal preference and I use Vinegar and other natural cleaning products for everything in the house since these highly sensitive birds came into our lives several decades ago. Again, thanks for the great information you posted here and I hope all heed it in their daily cleaning activities in the house. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayd Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 Thanks Dan, I agree with you whole heartily, In this persons case, bleach is the only way to go, my fear are when people mix other cleaners with bleach, like dish soap, which then produces a deadly gas..... As we both know, proper drying time in the sun is essential when using bleach....Jayd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karcar Posted September 11, 2010 Author Share Posted September 11, 2010 Thanks everyone it sounds like I did the right thing after all, vinegar was another cleaner I used the others were just stuff like Mr. Clean, etc besides the bleach of course and it has been in the sun for a few days as well. I did fell bad about his poor bird I use the same Avian Vet he did it is the only one in town, I think I would have insisted I come in sooner but hindsight has always been 20/20. Karen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayd Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 That's grey't, now rinse it once again to make sure you get the other cleaners out of the nooks and crannies, air dry then wipe with vinegar.... Thanks Jayd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talon Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 I have to chime in on this thread..... the absolute BEST cleaner, disinfectant, sanitizer, sterilizer is 2.5 Acid water. This is the only thing I use on all my tree stands, playstands, cages, toys, etc. NOTHING cleans better. I spray it on, let it sit for a minute and wipe clean. 2.5 acic water is used in hospitals, hotels, used by doctors instead of soap when washing their hands to prep for surgery as it is antibacterial, etc. it kills all bacteria, e.coli, mrsa, and salmonella. There is no harm to my birds. no fumes, no chemicals, just water! I highly recommend it for any one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danmcq Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 I want to set the record straight here on disinfecting, versus just daily cleaning of cages. As others have already said, a vinegar solution works great not only on cages and stands, but also when on household surfaces. With that said, it is by no means used in disinfecting in terms of an item that a bird or person with a highly infectious disease ether bacterial of viral. Doctors may use a vinegar based solution as ONE of the washes they do before surgery, but it is not the ONLY solution they use. This is straight from disease controls website regarding the disinfectants used to kill all bacterial and viral contamination found in hospitals: "" It is difficult to determine the number of hospital-acquired infections that may be prevented by use of registered disinfectants. However, there is a great deal known about infectious microorganisms, how they spread disease, and what can be done to halt the spread of infections. For example, it is believed the most important factor in preventing the spread of diseases in hospitals is related to how often and how thoroughly HCWs wash their hands. Disinfectants and other factors may also play important roles. EPA-registered sterilants and disinfectants used in healthcare facilities are presumed to play a vital role in reducing transmission of harmful microorganisms from surfaces to people.1 A number of disinfectants are used in hospitals, including: alcohol, chlorine and chlorine compounds, formaldehyde, glutaraldehyde, hydrogen peroxide, iodophors, phenolics, and quaternary ammonium compounds. These disinfectants are not interchangeable.2 The proper selection and use of disinfectants is essential for safety and quality control. Disinfectants have various characteristics that must be considered before one is selected for a particular use.3 Alcohols demonstrate variable effectiveness against some bacterial and fungal species. They are good general-use disinfectants that are fast acting, leave no residue, and compatibly combine with other disinfectants (quaternaries, phenolics, and iodine) to form tinctures. Aldehydes are effective against a wide spectrum of bacteria and viruses, are sporicidal when used properly (10-hour contact period), and demonstrate activity against vegetative bacteria, spores, and viruses. Activated Glutaraldehyde requires limited and controlled use because of its toxic properties. It must only be used while wearing a ventilated hood. It has limited stability after activation (for alkaline glutaraldehyde). Chlorine compounds are good disinfectants for the clean-up of blood or body-fluid spills. They have a biocidal effect on M. tuberculosis, S. aureus, other vegetative bacteria, and HIV after 10-20 minutes, 1:5 dilution (250 ppm) for bacterial spores and mycobacteria. Diluted chlorine bleach stored at room temperature in a closed plastic container will deteriorate by one half after one month, neutralizes rapidly in the presence of organic matter, is good for decontamination of HBV, HCV, HIV, and the clean-up of biohazardous spills. Undiluted bleach is good for surface disinfecting after possible contamination with the CJD virus; however NIH recommends 1.0 N NaOH. Iodophor is effective against vegetative bacteria and viruses. It demonstrates poor activity against bacterial spores, however it has a rapid biocidal action. It is effective against Gram-negative and Gram-positive organisms, some viruses, and tubercle bacilli, and is most effective in acid solutions. It can vaporize at 120º F to 125º F (should not be used in hot water), and its effectiveness can be reduced by organic matter. It is stable in storage if kept cool and tightly covered. It is still active if the solution is brown or yellow. Mercurials demonstrate poor activity against vegetative bacteria and are not effective on spores. They are toxic and not recommended for use. Phenolic compounds are effective against vegetative bacteria, fungi, and lipid-containing viruses. They have low solubility in water, are stable in storage, are germicidal against Gram-negative and Gram-positive organisms and tubercle bacilli, are effective over a large pH range, and have limited sporicidal activity. Prolonged contact deteriorates rubber, and can cause skin and eye irritation. Not for use on food-contact surfaces. Quaternary ammonium compounds are acceptable to control vegetative bacteria and non-lipid-containing viruses. They are stable in storage, have no odor but act as deodorizers. They are non-irritating to skin but skin or eye contact should be avoided. They are effective at temperatures up to 212º F, are effective against Gram-positive organisms, are bacteriostatic in high dilutions, are ineffective against tubercle bacilli, spores, and viruses, are more effective in alkaline than acid solutions, are neutralized by soap, and their effectiveness is reduced by organic material."" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talon Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 Hi Dan... Yeah but any germ or disease on planet earth can not and does not survive in WATER with pH 2.6 or lower. It is DEAD in less then 30 seconds. Now I am not disputing that there exists caustic chemicals that can kill microbes.. There certainly are.. but there are much better and safer approaches too. I don't pay for any of this. It cost me just 2 cents a gallon to make. Of course it does cost to buy the machine but I did that for the health benefits to me and my family. The acid water is a "freebie" so to speak. Anyone interesting in learning more please don't hesitate to PM me. I really don't want to start a long drawn out debate here in this thread. I'm sure the OP understands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayd Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 My 2-cents, LOL, My point was, "The combination of Bleach and many many other cleaners can become a Deadly combo, producing gases and deadly chemical reactions that can kill, Mame, and burn badly." Jayd Kudos to everyone!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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