M2MM

I'd like to answer with a real life experience.... We birdysat a young Grey (female) last summer for about 7 weeks. She fit in right away and had a good time. When he daddy came home and picked her up, she was so happy to see him that she "glued" herself to his shoulder and couldn't get enough head scritches from him. He had been very concerned that she would forget him after such a long absence, but she remembered him alright! I don't think you have anything to worry about.

Regardless of a breeder's claims that a bird is fully weaned, they really aren't until they are nearly a year old. You will still need to guide your baby in what is good and safe to eat. So be prepared to teach by demonstration. In rehabilitating an 8-month-old CAG (now 4 1/2 years old) who arrived eating only sunflower seeds, I found that the best way to get him eating other foods was to sit down with him and eat a very similar meal (chopped veggies and fruit, along with birdy bread) and prove to him that it was good and safe (plan on making "yummy" noises while eating.) Don't share from your own dish, but offer him a separate bowl/dish with the same foods in it. Feeding Greys is a great way to get yourself eating healthier, too. BTW, one important piece of equipment is a digital scale (postal scale size) for frequent weighings to ensure that your baby is maintaining his/her weight once you have him/her at home. Be sure to find a good avian vet and get your bird examined asap after homecoming (aka "new bird examination").

So sweet! (I'm getting cavities )

Quickdood wrote: I can only answer from my own experience, but Kumiko (a Timneh African Grey) gets a minimum of 12 hours in his covered sleeping cage. He will typically only take very short cat naps, but that's probably due to the fact that he gets a full night's sleep. If yours doesn't get a full 12 hours in one go, then he will probably make good use of his quiet days and take naps. Birds do adapt, but we mustn't expect too much from them. <br><br>Post edited by: M2MM, at: 2008/08/14 23:07

I must have the only Grey (TAG) that doesn't dunk or make parrot soup. I keep the pellets on the other side of the cage and he's too "lazy" to take the pellets all the way over to the water bowl. However, my parrotlets make pellet soup each and everyday. :laugh:

the_mask86 wrote: No worries there, he could be craving vitamin A (carotene from carrots.) But, if you want him to eat more of a variety, then give him only just enough food for one "sitting." I used to give my TAG a large bowl of fresh foods, only to have him pick and choose his favourites. My vet (and others) advised that I cut down on the amount of food offered to encourage him to at least try everything. I prepare more than he needs, but only serve "just enough" for one meal, leaving the rest in the fridge to replenish his bowl from. Works like a charm.

At 20 weeks old, there's no chance that the behaviour is aggression, it must be excitement and anticipation of being fed. I use the microwave to warm food all the time, but I also mix it thoroughly being heat-testing it on the inside of my forearm. If you can barely feel it, then it's "just right." (Like the way you see people test baby bottle contents in movies.)

I don't think feeding them insects is the best idea, but if he ate one of his own volition, I wouldn't stop him. (Kumiko gets spooked by tiny spiders, so there's no fear of him turning insectivore.)

I've offered pablum (baby oatmeal), but Kumiko didn't care for it. If you can get your bird to try it, then go for it!

Welcome! The only real drawback I can see is that Greys need about 12 hours of sleep, so this only leaves you about an hour to interact with your Grey. I assume that you are away for 11 hours due, in part, to a long commute. What are your weekends like? Greys need a fair amount of attention, so will you be able to give him more time on the weekend? Glad you're doing your research in advance. Good on you! B)

I hand fed Kumiko until he was 13 months old (started a month after his arrival, when he started going downhill fast, and only after the vet advised it.) I didn't originally expect to be feeding him so long, but he wouldn't give it up, and absolutely refused to feed himself. It took another month to get him back to feeding himself (with the vet's help and advice) and now he still gets a small bedtime feed (by syringe) of strained yam with red palm oil. I do this only to ensure that he gets sufficient vitamin A, and to keep him accustomed to the syringe (for future medicating purposes). Lately, he's been a reluctant about taking the syringe, so I've drop the amount he gets, yet again. He wants what is in the syringe, but seems to not like my methods anymore. :side:

I have two DVDs: The Birdsitter DVD: Parrots in a large aviary setting (filmed at the California "Parrot University"), this dvd is made by the same people that developed "The Aviator" flying harness. They show a huge variety of captive bred parrots including: cockatoos, hyacinths, B&G, Red Wings, CAGs, Quakers, Amazons, Eckies, and many others I can't name. PollyVision Strictly for Parrots DVD: Parrots in the wild including: Australian parrots, Macaws & Amazons, and African Greys. This one is made by/for the World Parrot Trust. Proceeds go to their conservation projects. They both make interesting viewing for parrots and parronts alike. I highly recommend both of them.

Sorry about your dog. I use the BIRD SITTER DVD to keep my TAG from being too unhappy when I have to go out. It's a video that loops automatically, and there are lots of parrots of every variety, so it's good for almost all parrots (my parrotlets don't like it, as there are no wee birds in the vid.) As for painting, I would recommend that your bird stay overnight somewhere, even the mildest paint has some fumes. OR, house your bird far away from the room in question, close the door and paint after birdy bedtime. Keep the bathroom window open or the exhaust fan running non-stop.

My avian vet recommends Bird Soother Spray (a sterile aloe/water solution with a topical anesthetic.) It really helps my parrotlet, who plucks to relieve his irritation caused by elevated liver enzymes (under treatment).

If something "good" gets pooped on (like the brand new shirt/blouse I put on this morning), I clean it immediately with those baby wipes people use for diaper change clean-ups. They do a bang-up job, and saves me have to get the item-in-question drycleaned (silk, wool, etc.) That said, most poops do not stain (except maybe on white cotton). Most times if it's left to dry, you can pull off the poop part and then just wash as usual. If the poop gets ground in by accident, then prespray with poop-off before tossing into the washer.