Dave007

Your bird is going through a phase like many other phases that happen with parrots. It's new, it's novel, it's something else a parrot has found out it can do. Eventually, the yelling subsides. Rarely do you hear a majority of people say that they're having long term problems with a screaming grey. They're normally become quiet as time goes on. As time goes on, some people even worry that their bird might be suffering from something because it's too quiet after going through a phase of being loud which it's not. Compare it to a bell. At first the bird can't leave it alone. The bird starts to fight with it all the time. The bird screams, squawks at it, bites at it, knocks it all around. This goes on for quite a while but eventually, the bird lessens the constant battles with the bell. It happens again but not to much. The squawking eventually fades away. There's nothing wrong with doing many things as you want right now in order to curb it but just to let you know, it will go away whether you do something or nothing at all. I say this just so you can relax concerning the temporary, annoying thing your bird is doing right now. As far as him getting more brave about jumping off his cage, right now that's his way of flying even though he can't yet. When he finally gets his wings in, he'll do the same thing except that it'll be airborne. Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2010/04/01 17:48<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2010/04/01 19:47

Well it looks like you took the bird with the intentions of getting medical treatment. If you haven't discussed whether she wants to part with the bird then it's hers. Legalities really don't apply unless some official animal organization judged that the animal was being abused by the owner. Usually, they would take the animal away. You could spend some time with her going over the way the bird should be treated, it's needs and you can show the owner the vet's report about the bird being in bad shape. Maybe she'll change her mind about keeping the bird.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2010/03/29 00:01

A little trick for people that have greys that give off excessive amounts of dander---Mist your bird for about 10 seconds and just let the water hit the top of the wings. That'll dampen the dander on the wing feathers and when the bird fluffs and flaps, that dander won't go so far because it's damp and will more than likely go to the bottom or very close to the cage. The dander won't travel very far.

The only major thing that's different comes when each goes into their yearly hormonal stage. Males won't act as aggressively as females. Talking is the same. Friendliness is the same. Many breeders won't sex a bird for a potential buyer and that's a good idea. The buyers can do that afterward.

Drinking is the imblications of another meaningful space. If the force was in the claws of the paws and would cause duplications of the meanings of spacial complications in the random universal times, then morality would be at a disadvantage of willing thoughts and sadly, measurements would cease. I wish you well on your level of height flight.

The troublesome disclosure is that the amount of the payments will depend on whether or not them funds are placed on special lists that are typically billed as "preferred" or "recommended." firms that have such thoses would like you to believe that they have independently chosen funds that they think are well suited for objectives. However, the them disclosure reveals that they are better described as paid. The article only mentions the jises, but I would be surprised if many other companies did not have those payments to them places. As always, one is advised to read pronouncements with a goodly amount of sodium chloride in hand. In the letter yet points out that there are these who may not really be independent. In a sense, very few are truly independent because virtually all run offs are really ratifications of them's slates. However, there are some whose primary income comes from serving as directional paths. They may not want to upset those so they won’t be retained and lose that income. Moreover, they may hope to be recommended for other boards in order to increase greysomeness.

My advice concerning bathing---it really isn't a good idea to keep bathing your bird everyday. Many of their natural oils eventually get thinned and washed away. A grey needs those oils to protect the body. Even though your bird may have dander on it, that doesn't mean that it should be washed away just in order to keep the bird very clean and dust free. Anyone who buys a grey or any other bird that has dander should be aware that the dander is a protectant of allthe feathers they have. In the wild, greys and other dander producing parrots don't bathe everyday. They spend a lot of time oiling and preening their feathers with their own natural oils simply to protect against wetness. Once a week or 10 days is plenty. Just because a bird loves going in the shower with a person, that doesn't make it right just like giving a bird an excess amount of treats everyday isn't a good idea.

If you live in the US, you should really get your red palm oil at the site Judy recommended. You get the most ( 16 oz) for about $6. I need to buy lots of palm oil( 4 jars at a time) and there is no place cheaper. Much better place instead of going around searcing. You can also get fantastic prices on vitamins supplements and all other health related products for people. PS---1 jar will probably last you about 1 year.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2010/03/25 22:09

****e)if the bird cannot be lowered,raise the people-place a footstool or small ladder next to the cage,thereby raising smaller humans to a position of higher rank.****** Listen, I just came across some realy gooood stuff. I hang out at the basketball areas at college schools. My stuff is guaranteed to put on at least 8 to 10 inches. I just gotta watch out for the coach. Contact me for prices. No shipping out of state. Problem solved!! AND--for those people who wanna be in the in crowd and have the latest from 5th Ave I make custom sized wings Contact me to make an appointment for a custom fitting and prices.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2010/03/25 01:44

On a measuring cup, there's a chart that applies to wet contents and on the other side there's a part that applies to dry contents 1 cup of sugar is not the same as 1 cup of water

Be adventurous--make your own Bird Mash 1 cup almond/pecans/walnuts sliver or pieces 1 cup dried fruit 1/2 cup kelp 1/2 cup split green peas 1/2 cup split yellow peas 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, ginger, or allspice 2 4 tablespoons dried chillis 2 4 tablespoons dried orange peel 2 cups brown or wild rice 2 cups currants 2 cups green lentils 2 cups grits 2 cups mung beans 2 cups red lentils 2 cups spinach pasta cracked fine 2 cups white or yellow hominy corn 4 cups textured vegetable protein 1 cup dry to 2 cup water. Stovetop method: Boil Water, add dry mix cook on medium for about 1/2 hour uncovered, stir constantly. Once it's done cooking, add veggies, and pellets. Freeze it in an ice cube tray and put into baggies. A batch usually lasts a couple weeks. ==================================================== Show the world what you can do!! Bird Bars-------Treat 2 cups cornmeal 2 cups flour 8 teaspoon baking powder 4 eggs w/shells 1 1/2 cups applesauce 2 cups apple juice 4 tablespoon peanut butter 2 cups seed ( get small bag of cockatiel seed) 2 cups mixed veggies 1 can fruit cocktail Mix and pour in greased 9x12 pan and bake at 350 for 40-45 min. Cut in bars, cool and serve. ===================================================<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2010/03/22 23:35

Pictures of the specific areas you're talking about would make explanations or opinions or ideas easier to give. It's hard to visulize what you're talking about. As far as clipping, the only thing it'll do is not let the bird fly around and if he's already a flyer his personality may change because he's having a natural thing taken away PLUS, it'll take about a year for him to grow out a new set of flight feathers that will all be perfectly even on both sides.

First of all, you need to switch cages. The big one should be in the living room, not visa versa. Keeping a bird in a small cage for part of the day can overly stimulate a bird to react very happily when he finally gets into the large cage. He may not wanna be bothered by people. He may wanna execise and vent his frustration at being in a small cage where exercise is limited all the time. Plus, the bird is getting older and more adept at things and more obstinate. That's a grey's nature. They don't stay cuddly for long. Personally, I don't believe in having multiple cages around. I believe one big cage is enough for the bird. The big main cage is his home during the day and sleeping area during the night and also provides the bird with all the other things it wants to do during the day. It also allows your bird to see and get used to people and places that he needs to re experience. Another thing here is that during the day, he's in one cage and is immediately put into into another cage. That's commonly known as being cage bound and once an age advancing bird sees that freedom can be had, he'll definitely become harder to control.

You've simply got to keep your bird away from electric cords. You can't train a bird to NOT bite something. If you see that your bird is near electric cords, take him away from them. All that entails keeping a sharp eye on your bird. They shouldn't be allowed to drift all over the floor or near outlets. It's really a very simple solution.

I would say that the best place to train him to step up is away from the grey, away from other people, and in a quiet room that has a door. Put him on the floor and start the stepping up lessons. He'll probably fly away or walk away but you need to do it over and over for about 2 to 3 times a day. I think that you should let him stay in the same area as the grey because it takes much longer for 2 birds to accept or tolerate each other. If you see that one is constantly trying to fly over to do some damage to the other bird, then you'll need a separate area.

Steve, don't run away just because you're right. Women do talk a lot more than men and the big problem is trying to stay awake until they finally make a point. Actually, sometimes that's a good thing because we wind up getting a nice sound nap.

Well, it's good that you mention those words from the breeder---"Ooooh you are babying him too much." There is no such thing as babying him. Proper nutrition is what's the most important. What you're saying about the breeder just reinforces what I said before--- """"It's the breeder who creates the time line, not the bird.""""

Well, you shouldn'teven worry if he goes over the 5 mt mark. All parrots wean when they want to and actually letting the bird wean off of formula, that creates a calmer, more secure and better tempered bird. It's only breeders who decide when to stop the formula feeding. That's done so the bird can be sold. Many birds that are sold should have never been forced weaned in the first place. It's the breeder who creates the time line, not the bird.

You shouldn't stop any formula feeding until your bird absolutely refuses to accept it. What's going on is that nature is telling the bird that his system needs that formula. The time comes when refusal of the formula is obvious. It doesn't matter how long it takes. Greys and other parrots have been known to take formula as old as 4 or 5 mts. There are no absolute times to stop.

If it's NJ, you'll more than likely have electricity very soon but it's really up to you about moving him around. Greys can put upon with 55 degree weather if it's temporary. You can put a cover on part of the cage if you're worried. Only remember that you'll have to go out into lower temperature and moving around may not be good for the bird. On the other hand, maybe your bird won't be bothered. Like I said, it's up to you.

At about 1 to 1 1/2 to 2 yrs old depending upon how active the bird is but age really has no bearing as far as when they reach their average weight. By 4 yrs old they've reached the weight that will remain permanently with a few variations during the cold weather.

400 to 420 is a small boned grey. 430 to 480 is a medium boned grey. 510 to 605 is a large boned grey. All figures are approx and can vary. Most greys will weigh more and then weigh less very often. 2 or 3 is nothing unusual unless the weight steadily lessens and that's a sign of illness and that illness will be noticable.

People who have Asythema, Emphescema, Chronic Bronchitis and other COPD problems may also get into problems if they have birds with excessive dander. But none of this has anything to do with poor hygiene. What the girl has is internal and isn't contagious. Many greys and cockatoos are rehomed because of their extreme amounts of dander.

As far as being used for birds---any type of leather--real or simulated used for bird toys is not the same as what you're talking about. Actually, what's commonly used for birds is untreated rawhide. There's 2 different treated veg tanned leather. One has a chrome chemical in it and the other is an oil based protectant in it with other products mixed in and the closest animal that it can be used on is for dog collars and cat collars. So, if it was me, I wouldn't touch it even though I might have an excess amount of it at home. There's no place that lists the product as bird safe.<br><br>Post edited by: Dave007, at: 2010/03/07 18:37

Most people don't paint their cages. Many larger parrots can chip, crack and sometimes eat the paint and get extremely sick. I'm surprised that since you work in a pet store, no one told you this. No, greys ( personality) don't get affected by colors. People simply buy different colors so the bird's feather color is obvious.