Just a Facebook link to a post of us hatching and hand rearing Ella the African Grey 🐣currently 5weeks old 🐥

Carol and Rob

Visit our website......www.abparrotsfarm.net
Whatsapp....... +12168161403

With that said it is inevitable that some members will find themselves with a young unweaned baby.This thread will offer advice & guidance to help you successfully finish the hand feeding process.

Formulas, Feeding Utensils, and Methods.

With the recent advances in avian nutrition there are a number of commercially prepared handfeeding formulas, ie..Kaytee Exact,Roudybush to name but a few.Formula must be served very warm (about 105 to 108 degrees). A human basil digital thermometer can be used to test the formula. Once you become familiar with the correct feeding temperature of formula, you can test it on the inside of your wrist before feeding.This chart is for guidelines only & each baby will vary slightly..

Mixing Formula..

Mixing your formula using Kaytee Exact is an easy process. It is designed to be mixed on a 1:2 ratio of formula to water. When measuring formula, use these guidelines:

( 1 tablespoon = ½ ounce = 15cc )

Mixing On A 1: 2 Ratio

FORMULA WATER

1 tablespoon 1 ounce (30cc)

2 tablespoon 2 ounce (60cc)

Preparing Your Formula..

1. Add the correct amount of water to your measuring cup

2. Heat the water in your microwave until its very warm

3. Add measured amount of formula and stir

4. Feed at correct temperature (105 to 108 degrees)

Amount To Feed At Each Feeding

AMOUNT AGE OF BABY

20cc - 30cc 3-5 weeks

30cc - 45cc 5-9 weeks

45cc - 60cc 9-16 weeks

The formula should have a consistency similar to thin catsup. Do not feed a formula that is too thick. Water is important for proper hydration of your baby. Babies will actually grow better on a thinner formula than one that is too thick. If you have a gram scale, you can see the exact consistency that you should be mixing the formula. Weigh out 7 grams of formula to be mixed with each ounce of water when mixing on a 1:2 ratio.

The initial temperature of the water used to prepare the formula will have an effect on the consistency of the finished product so its important to measure your formula and water so you don't feed a formula too thin or too thick.

Feeding Methods.

The two most common methods of feeding are either by syringe or spoon, Personally i recommend spoon feeding as this closely resembles the action of the parents beak.you can spoon feed by taking a small metal spoon & bending the sides in to foram a V shape.Gently place the tip of the spoon in to the chicks mouth & tip the spoon up slightly.The chick will pump the spoon & swallow the formula.Techniques for Handfeeding your Baby....

1. Feed the formula mixture using your spoon or syringe by dispensing the food along with the baby's feeding response (rhythmic bobbing motion).

2. Be sure to give the baby a chance to breath between bites of food. Do not try and feed too quickly.

3. Continue to feed until the baby's crop is nicely rounded or on weaning babies, until it refuses more food.

4. Do not overfeed, as this may result in regurgitation and possibly aspiration, which could cause death.

5. Clean any spilled food off your baby.

6. Clean and disinfectant all feeding equipment.

7. Discard any unused formula. Always mix up fresh formula for each feeding. Do not store mixed formula in refrigerator.

Feeding Schedule

Age In Weeks Number of Feedings Hours Between Time Frame

0 - 2 10 2 6:00am - 12:00am

2 - 3 6 3 7:00am - 11:00pm

3 - 4 5 4 7:00am - 10:30pm

4 - 5 4 5 7:00am - 10:30pm

5 - 10 3 7 8:00am - 10:00pm

10 - 13 2 12 9:00am & 9:00pm

13 - 16 1 24 9:00pm - 11:00pm

Use the above schedule as a guideline for feeding your baby. Babies grow at different rates and should be treated individually. Some babies do better remaining on 2 feedings per day until completely weaned. Be sure your baby's crop empties completely at least once during each 24 hour period.

After your baby reaches 7/ 8 weeks of age and has made the transition from brooder to cage, it is time to begin introducing weaning food.Pellet food is a safe food to start weaning your baby onto with the addition of seed,fruit, veggies.Also have a separate water dish next to his food.Check your baby's crop before the night time feeding to monitor how much if any of the warm, moistened pellets your baby is eating. Do not leave moistened pellets or vegetables in baby's cage more than 4 hours to prevent spoilage.

At 13 weeks of age, your baby should be placed on one feeding per day which is given at 9:00pm - 11:00pm. By this time, your baby should have begun eating either dry pellets or the warm, moistened pellets. If your baby is not eating either moistened pellets or dry pellets at this time, then leave your baby on 2 feedings per day. Some babies can take longer to learn eating skills.

Once your baby has been placed on one feeding per day, begin giving warm, moistened pellets in the morning around 8:00am as well as the afternoon at 5:00pm. Dry pellets and water should always be available as well. Check your baby's crop at night before the night time feeding . If it is very full with pellets that baby has eaten, then you can skip the night time feeding. If you are not sure, then offer the formula but don't force the baby to eat if the baby refuses.Your baby can lose up to 15% of its weight during the weaning stage. Once baby is weaned, its important to continue monitoring how much it actually eats by feeling its crop and watching its weight.

Remember that weaning time is a very stressful event in your baby's life. Never try and force your baby to wean by withholding formula.

The above information is to be used a guidline & each baby will vary slightly in it's development.<br><br>Post edited by: lovemyGreys, at: 2008/06/02 18:19

can anyone shed some info on this. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Here is my question.. I have been researching and trying to find information about Congos because my husband and I have finally decided now is the right time to accept the responsibility of a baby. I stay at home now so i would have lots of time for the new addition plus my son is starting school. The entire day almost would be devoted to the new baby. I have found several breeders, some of which are much more expensive (the money doesn't bother me) and others are cheaper.

One breeder is nearly five hours away from me and i really want to travel down to meet the babies. She says they have three babies and it seems like as soon as i talked to her she sends me a email saying two more people have inquired about the babies.. im not sure if this is to rush me to give them a deposit to ensure a sell or if they really inquired.. (it was less than 10 minutes of talking on the phone with them)..

Another breeder is three hours away.. he also has three babies. Im making the trip to visit the babies this coming sunday. One thing that i question about this breeder is that he leaves the babies with their mothers the first month of life. I have read that this is bad...? Is it? Many breeder that i have talked to take the eggs and incubate asap.. is it bad that the baby has been with his bird mother more than humans at this point or is that fine? Also, i have read that no "good" breeder would ever let a baby go without being fully weaned. This breeder told me that it was my money and he wanted to make me happy.. if i wanted to take the baby at 9 weeks i would or i could leave the baby there til the weaning is finished.. it was my choice.. should this we something to worry about and wonder if they are good breeders? I have heard some people say that they hand fed their baby and everything turned out fine.. i mean i guess it was everyone first time at one point.. you weren't born a bird expert..

This will be my first Grey. So i am very weary of making mistakes. Im not rich so this is defiantly a huge investment for us..! Any help would be greatly appreciated..!!!

Rebecca:confused:

Cockatoos are very funny...we call them Q-tips. When the wing feathers start to grow, they pick the keratin off at the tip of the feather first which leaves a feathered tip and a tight sleeve of keratin...it looks like Q-tips hanging from their bodies..I've attached an example. All parrot babies are prickly little pears. When the babies grow, you can see and feel the new feathers with sheaths around them. 😁

Fun Fact:

My baby Grey is 9 weeks old and is now home for 2 days.  I noticed that his vent feathers are quite messed.  What is the best way to clean him without it being a traumatic experience.  Also, when at the pet store, he had a voracious appetite but not at home now. He is still on 3 feeds a day and I am feeding him with a syringe.  Does he just need to settle down a bit?  He does not eat as much as he did at the store...

Any suggestions?

Should he mainly just perch on his play area above his cage? He seems to like the top of my cabinets better than being on his perch on top of his cage. I feel bad because I have a small apartment and think he should have another perch area, but there really isn't any other places.  

My baby is 13 wks old.   I was wondering about training.   I'm looking for feedback of what age to start and what to start with. 

Please give me some ideas.

Thank you

I've heard different views on stopping the behavior and I'm confused. 

For a while I was trying to put him down as soon as he bit and i would put him down and walk into the other room to ignore him. But now he's flying and doesn't seem to mind me getting up and leaving him alone :-(

My boyfriend who stays with me occasionally is a dog trainer decided to create a sense of equality with the biting. When pi went to bite him he decided that hurting him back equally would be fair by plucking feather. It was a small feather but I could see the bird was stressed out. I also don't know if that accomplished anything. After that he started acting just like the bird and mimicking his every move. Then he would move the bird to show the bird who was in charge (like showing him he was head of the flock) and at a later time give him a high-value treat to show him he had nothing to fear.  He claims that within a week of constant training  like that the bird will no longer bite him. I'm sure I will get a lot of negative comments on this but I am curious would something like this work?

After he was fed he instantly went to me to cuddle, which was bizarre, and it made me cry because it reminded me so much of the old Django. Then when my brother had him for a bit, he looked at me and literally ran across the table making cute sounds and again wanted to lay in my arms and be cuddled (I cried again... ye).

I am very happy with our new baby bird, but at the same time I feel like I'm betraying the old Django so much right now, so a little bit of mixed feeling and I seem to be the only one. Some of you may remember the videos where Django was super interactive to my voice and how I taught him quite a bit already in a short period that he was with us. Anyone has some tips to shake the guilt and feeling of betrayal off off me?

Here are some pictures of the new baby to keep the tone of the thread a little light . Sorry for the heavy stuff.

He is 11 weeks now btw!

I'm in south Louisiana and of course it would be nice to find a breeder within a couple of hundred miles, but I'm ok with shipping from out of state if I must.

Is it too early in the year to find babies, or must I wait a few more months?

Pardon my beginner's ignorance! Any help, comments, or recommendations will be much appreciated. Thanks!

~Sam

I got last week an approx 12 weeks old african grey which obviously still need to be handfed. Since then i am feeding him CEDE handfeeding formula and adding brocolli sweet potatoes and carrots to each feeding cooked and mixed with the formula.(i am feeding 3x per day approx 45ml every time)

The baby still eat barely alone he like potatoes so much as for seeds and pellets still eat rarely or mainly reduce them to small pieces.

Since yesterday i have noticed that his "poo" are not that hard,maybe because i am feeding him too much vegetables? Could it be it? I have stopped the vegetable with the formula and it seems a bit better.. he mainly have a bit of diarrhea in the morning when i wake up i see them, after feeding him during the day his poop seems fine i have attached a second picture showing one or 2 small poop that he has made after breakfast.

I am just worried that he might be sick or something?

He can fly a bit so when i call him he fly to me but he has not full control of his flight yet.

I am just worried that he might be sick and hiding something and the second problem is that we don't have any avian vet in my country so my only help will be coming from you guys..

one more thing, when i got it ,i treated him against coccidiosis(a 3 day treatment)

Finally can someone tell how and what should i mix with the formula for more efficient and vitamins in the food without hurting him

Or putting something in excess?

Thanks a lot!

This also has to do with the fact that all unweaned birds are different sizes, different ages, have specific needs and instructions which should be personalized between the person who gives instructions and the owners of unweaned chicks concerning information or specific problems that may arise. Any specific information concerning the hand feeding or hand feeding problems arising with an unweaned chick should be provided by either the information provider or the information receiver by private correspondence . More than likely, better and more accurate information will be shared.

The reason for this change is because people will receive one set of directions only which will benefit the health and welfare of an unweaned chick.

Concerning this subject of unweaned birds, there's too many cooks in the kitchen.

Poppy has only been home for 2 full days now and here I am already seeking advice. Poppy will cling onto her cage door and make repeated noises until I open the door to get her out. She will hurry onto my hand but when I attempt to put her on her playtop or a perch attached to the outside of her cage, she side steps up my arm to avoid it so I will sit on the couch with her and speak quietly and softly to her. Earlier, she allowed me to stroke her head for about 10 minutes as I was talking to her and was closing her eyes and very content. The problem is, she goes after my hand or arm when she sees them uncovered. I cover my arm and hand with a small hand towel when I handle her after she seemed to be on a mission to bite them her first night home.

I was holding her a bit ago after she begged to come out of the cage and all was fine for a few minutes but I could see she was looking for a way to hop off of my covered hand and onto my chest, which she did, then nipped at my nostril then went for my left arm and hand. I covered her with the towel and placed her back into her cage to calm down. She seems to get into an excited state when this happens and I can't quite figure it out because she really seems to want me to hold her when I do.

I have been trying to go slow with everything and not overwhelm her or push myself on her. I have read enough on here to know that it can take quite a bit of time to gain their trust. Any advice is welcome...I look forward to hearing your input but suspect I need to go slower and maybe not hold her yet...?

We live in private rented accomodation with a 6 month old grey. She comes out every day and she's out the majority of the time. Generally she is good with knowing that poos are only done in the cage or on the top of the cage where her play stand is (cage came with it) which she loves to be on. However there have been a few times where a few accidents have happened and there are stains on the carpet. We're due to move out into a bigger place in a few months and so I was wondering does anyone know how to get rid of them without using harsh chemicals? (Otherwise if the stains are left it could affect how much we get paid back from our deposit when leaving.) We have a carpet cleaner but am wary of using chemicals near her because we know that such things can be dangerous to her. If anyone knows of anything that could get rid of the stains that doesn't use harsh chemicals it would be great to hear from you.

Another thing-sometimes the place can smell (we do clean a lot too). When Babs is in her cage we keep the windows open. Obviously we know not to use candles, incense, essential oils etc. However just leaving the windows doesn't always work. Does anyone have any parrot safe alternatives to have a nice smelling home again?

This is what I have so far:

Tabletop T-stand (for when I am at the table doing my editing. I am there a lot)

Full size play stand (or tree) to go from room-to-room

6' Outdoor Aviary for the deck to spend time in when we are outside

Pak o Bird backpack/carrier to go in public or walks/hikes and in the car

Smaller cage for my bedroom(?)

Shower perch

Pedi perch

Various perches for cage

Boing perch

Toys (smaller to start off with)

Handheld vacuum for cleaning around cage

Seventh Generation Multicleaner (I saw a member on here highly recommends this for cleaning the walls)

Please let me know what I might want to consider adding or subtracting. Thank you

So I've noticed the past couple of days charlie Parker making these little baby sounds and grunts when he wants scratched, it's so darn cute! He likes it when I lay my head down on the back of the couch so he can rest his beak on my cheek. The deep tissue massage starts and he just slowly crouches down till his belly is almost resting on the couch. He really enjoys his head and neck rubs. I also noticed that when he does this his Lil wings are open a bit. Anyone else experience this? I'm sure you have.